@reelChris

Is that it, or are they just the "economy" rig? Every tracker model I've ever seen has bargain basement equipment in it that looks like it was installed on a Friday afternoon 5 minutes before quitting time.

You need this: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Transducer_Shield_and_Saver_Spring_Back_Bracket_Combo/descpage-TRNDU.html It's a transducer mount on a spring hinge so that the transducer stays deployed until you hit something and then it folds 90 degrees. It snaps back into place once you're done dragging the transducer over whatever you hit.

The answer to my own question, is yes, that is the livewell timer. It's official ranger part name is TIMER,LVWL,12 AMP(SOLID STATE).

You've got to love when a fishing tournament and a sailboat race are scheduled for the same lake at the same time. As soon as you find a nice spot away from the race course, the markers all suddenly change and now they're trying to run you over.

Can anyone confirm if the black box in themiddle of the picture is the livewell timer in a 2019 Ranger RT188p? Two of the wires from the livewell switch run into it. If not, any clue on where it is or what it looks like?

I can't tell you what the right prop for your motor is, but I can tell you that Soderbloom's does great prop repair work through the mail. Call them to get an idea of how long it might take, but for your size prop, with shipping, you're looking at about $65 with shipping to fix an aluminum prop to a condition that looks basically new: https://www.soderbloom.com/proprepair.html

Maybe for the best? Any site that misspells the name of the company as "Diawa" in both the URL and on the actual website is a little suspicious.

Reaction tackle wacky O rings 125 in black, orange, green or red $6.49 125 in watermelon or June bug $5.99 125 of each color (750 rings total) $18.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MT04AH5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

Another simple solution is dollar store chem lights placed near the gunnels to prevent stepping off into the wetness.

A few days ago I was working a large field of pads in about 1-1.5' FOW during fairly steady drizzle. At first I was using a toad over the top with no luck. Then I moved on to skipping a wacky senko to the holes between the pads . It was catching fish here and there (the bite overall was lousy) but getting snagged a lot. So, I switched to a texas rigged super fluke. That skipped well but I've never caught anything on a fluke so Imoved on after a few casts without a bite. I thought about pitching a texas rigged worm, which I have plenty of confidence in, but some of the best spots between the pads were really far away and it was much easier to skip. I got the idea that a Fat Ika texas rigged "backwards" (skirt up) would skip well, have decent action on the fall and wouldn't get hung up. I was right, but I still got no hits. Was there a better plastic I should have used for this application?

I use straight inflatables unless the weather is bad, then foam to prevent accidental inflation. I've been curious about switching to Mustang's foam/inflatable hybrid vest the Khimera: https://mustangsurvival.com/products/khimera-dual-flotation-pfd-md7183 which looks like the best of both worlds.

Did you buy them to make a little money off some old guy's generosity?? I'd ignore the impulse to sell them and focus on the impulse to fish them.

Magnum shaky head

I've tried this, and it works well for making space for a nail weight, but the problem I always run into is that, eventually, the weight goes flying out after a few casts. I've tried gluing the weights in with crazy glue, but that just delays the inevitable.

Lately, I've been picking lipless baits on which ones will stand up to being smashed into the trolling motor mid cast. I can tell you from several experiences that red eyed shads and warpigs cannot.

Wacky worm

West Marine has Daiwa Legalis reels on clearance for $41 each: 2500 XH 3000 series

Get either this: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Strikezone_Pocket_Knocker_Lure_Retriever_3pk/descpage-SZPPK.html?from=basres or this https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Eagle_Claw_Lead_Lure_Retriever/descpage-EC.html and get your lures back.

Sounds reasonable to me, but I also hate losing lures. If you're really worried about it, tie up two rods as close to identical as possible - similar rod, reel, type and strength of line, and same bait - one with leader, and one without. Cast and retrieve the rod without the leader a few times, then switch to the rod with the leader. If you can't feel much of a difference, chances are the fish won't either.

I'd go the opposite direction and throw a baby z-too on a light ned head for a slow fall rate to keep it in the strike zone longer.

Bill Dance recently put out a video on fishing cranks through cover by replacing the treble hooks with in-line circle hooks. I've seen single hooks on a crank, but never circle hooks. He talks about the hook substitution starting at 8:12.

The lower end Trackers sell for the prices they do because they are the bare minimum to be fishable. Their fish finders are very basic, trolling motors are just powerful enough to move the boat in the wind, decks are wood instead of aluminum, the carpet is light weight and wears out quickly, compartments are held closed by friction and are not water tight, and the wiring under the console is a confusing rat's nest. Build quality is highly variable as well. If you are comfortable with all of that, then consider the Pro 170 over the Classic. The 170 has much better rod storage, a significantly larger front deck and a much more usable live well. The real-world difference in price is minimal, but those three differences make fishing much much easier.

This is the end of the top half of a very old two piece Master graphite rod I'd like to put back into service. The orange rubber that provides friction to keep the two pieces together is dried and cracked. How can I replace it?

Tubes are one of those baits that I want to like but I have never had good luck with them doing anything but skipping where I would otherwise just skip a senko. I don't know what it is, but I can catch fish on a drop shot, then switch up to a tube and...nothing.

Don't get mesmerized by a used boat's list of equipment. The age of all parts and accessories matters to both the price of a boat and your future happiness with it. Ask a lot of questions about everything on board. "Brand new" batteries can be a year or two old. Old pumps, trolling motors, chargers, bearings and tires might be on their last legs and 4 or 5 year old graphs are outdated without much value.