ResoKP

Anyone got their orders for left-handed models come in yet???

It's a textbook drop-shot rod

Round some Daiwa J-Braid x8 in the clearance bin at Walmart for 1/2 price. So that's 10# J-Braid to 8# Sunline FC Leader Fluoro for me this season.

so.... where did you buy it and how did you get it so early? ?

Rod's good for all those techniques

You are actually a genius. Thank you for the picture. That was exactly what I was afraid of. I'll try putting the keeper over a thin sheet of fabric or self fusing silicon tape of some sort. Could be a little difficult putting on the keeper as the rubber o-ring is tough to stretch out..

Do you put Fuji keepers on your unfinished/raw blanks rods like Megabass US Destroyer? I can't imagine it not leaving a mark on the blank. It has to leave a mark the moment you flip up/down the keeper right? I bought a few of these keepers but scared to put it on rods with raw blanks...

Point is, both mean the same. TWS and TW is used interchangeably.

I better cancel my preorder then if you think the 2020 Metanium will be under $200 ? Retail price is $420. Stop spreading false info.

Is this a troll post? 2020 Metanium is $420.

Dude just being honest, if you're rocking a Steez CT SV, stay away from the older CT platforms like the Fuego CT, Tatula CT, 17 Tatula SV. They're bulky, heavy, clunky and you won't enjoy using it. Although it performs wonderfully, I actually hate my Tatula SV. If you're good at skipping, you don't need SV. Try the newer 100 platforms like the tatula 100/150, elites or the new 20 Tatula SV.

How's Smackdown 65# for punching heavy cover? I noticed the diameter is actually thicker than Sufix 832 in 50# and 65# Any benefits to Smackdown over 832? Have had no issues with 832 but I'm always open to trying out new things

I have 6'9" Avid X MLXF. Good for drop-shot & ned. M power would be much better for the rest of the techniques you mentioned.

Go with 50# braid mainline. This way you also have the option to tie on a 15-20# fluoro leader for jigs, though you can still just go straight braid if the conditions allow it.

I double up on the o-rings so that the hook is perpendicular to the worm. I have zero proof that this increases hook up ratio but it does increase my confidence.

It's pretty straightforward actually. $400 - $700 = High end: Megabass Destroyer, GLX/NRX, Conquest, Legend Elite/Xtreme, Kistler ZBone $250 - $399 = Mid level: Megabass Orochi XX, IMX Pro, Avid, Kistler H3, Tatula Elite AGS, Expride $150 - $249 = Low end: Megabass Levante, E6X, Premier, Kistler KLX, Tatula Elite, Zodias $100 - $150 = Entry level: Tatula Bass, Shimano Curado Under $100 = Budget Then there's ultra high end for $700+: Megabass ARMS, Shimano Poison Ultima, Daiwa Steez Racing Design Whether you think a $200 rod is "high-end" to you, that's your own opinion and not representative of the actual market/industry.

Because these rods are already so light, it's not so much the total combo weight that you feel during fishing, it's more of the tip constantly fighting against you when you're trying to drag the bottom-contact lures when raising the tip. It's almost as if putting on a super light reel (i.e. Aldebaran MGL), make the combo "feel" heavier. I feel like you can get away with putting on heavier reels and still have a super light feeling combo and personally I wouldn't go any less than Metanium MGL on a NRX 893. Again, YMMV.

3/8 or 1/2 oz Dark Sleeper on the NRX 893 for me. Maybe 3/4 oz in complete open water but I have not tried. Steez A is nice on it. I think the new Antares A (MGL) would be sweet on it and look forward to trying that out one day. NRX are quite a tip heavy series. Aldebaran would be unpleasant for me but if you're less sensitive to tip-heaviness, ymmv.

"topwater" refers to lures like poppers, spooks, etc. You'll rip those treble hooks out of the fish with an overpowering frog rod. Topwater and frogs are two completely different categories. I'm guessing OP isn't using the term "topwater" correctly because I can't imagine anyone would want to use a 7'2"-7'6" H to XF frog rod for a popper... OP, get the new Megabass Levante Perfect Pitch for your frogging & other heavy applications. I have the Orochi XX PP and if the actions are similar (which I'm guessing they are) it's a great frog rod & very versatile for many other applications.

"when is a Tatula SV a bad idea?" I don't understand the question...

You are talking about this video where he's putting braid backing on fluoro main line? Aaron Martens is not tuning reels and putting custom light-weight spools in his reels. "Anglers tunning reels pay a lot of money to save a few grams of spool weight" which reels are you even referring to? Anyone paying money for custom spools are shallow to begin with please explain to me how putting like 6 ft of mono backing is going to make any difference in the real world? There's 2 different camps: 1. Mono backing + filler (40yds or whatever it may be) to save money. These people are not gonna care about spool weight nor will they suddenly stop using filler line and spool entirely with braid just to chase those extra distances. 2. Mono backing just to prevent braid slippage (if your spool doesn't have holes). You're adding like 6ft of mono. Is there actually any performance downside to this? I doubt it. You're either: A. Telling people who wants to save money using mono as backing + filler, to stop using mono backing and spend the extra money to fill the entire spool with braid instead or B. Saying 6 ft of mono backing is actually going to detract casting performance

Is there any practicality to this? Anglers who are actually conscious of spool weight won't be using a deep spool and the high dollar light-weight spools (ZPI, etc..) would be quite shallow that in either circumstances, even if you decide to put backing, it won't be much and I doubt that little bit of backing makes much of a difference. Anyone here actually care about added weight due to mono backing? Genuinely curious. Anything beyond that, you're basically getting into BFS which is an entirely different topic...

I only use mono backing when spooling with braid as it is necessary to keep the braid from slipping on the spool. Using tape is the other option but I prefer not to get tape residue on my spools. If I'm going mono or fluoro mainline, I just fill up the entire spool with it. No backing. Some people will add mono backing when going with fluoro mainline for the cost benefits. For everything else, I don't understand why you mention "performance" because the whole idea of backing is that it should never be exposed during casting. Backing line should never leave the spool so whether you have mono backing or not, there should not be any difference when actually fishing...

Aldebaran is way too light for NRX 894. Even Metanium MGL might feel too light for you if you're sensitive to tip-heaviness. I prefer Bantam MGL but YMMV.

Personally, I use Steez A for jigs & t-rigs because I prefer the aluminum frame over magnesium. For heavier jigs & cover, I actually use the new 19 morethan which is an even more beefed up version of the Steez A. Steez A can be plenty versatile too if you're willing to swap in custom spools or even Steez SV or Zillion SV spools. TBH, all three will perform great but one major difference between the three are the weights. On all my jig rods I find that Steez A balances the best. If you are able to, try them on your rods before buying. To me, Steez SV or lighter would be borderline unpleasant on rods like FMJ or 893.