If your Tatula hasn't been dunked or is need of a deep clean for other reasons, you can do a quick oil without major disassembly. I use the Daiwa Reel Oiler which is shown.
The first picture is for reference only using a spare, random bearing. This illustrates using a needle oiler to add a drop or two of oil to a bearing's gap between its shield the outside diameter of its inner race. This shield isn't a seal, but a mechanical device made to keep larger grains of particulate from entering a bearing, so if oil is applied to this tiny gap it will migrate into the interior of the bearing by capillary action and gravity and wet the balls. This will help to lubricate a bearing that has expressed most of its lubricant during use and should quiet what you're feeling and hearing.
Most Tatulas have two spool bearings. One's located in the palming side-plate and is easily accessed by backing out the retained coin slotted screw, then removing the side-plate. See the 2nd picture for guidance.
The other one's located under the spool tension knob or zero- adjuster knob. They are the same thing, and they serve the same function. All that needs to be done here is to adjust the star drag to allow the tension knob to be turned counterclockwise enough to be unscrewed from the threaded nipple molded into the frame. This exposes the inner-race/shield junction of this bearing. Add oil to the gap.
Reinstall the knob. This is do-able, but it can be tricky. It's quite easy to not start the threads correctly which will lead to cross-threading. It's best to first remove the handle and star drag from the very start if you lack confidence which will allow easy access to the knob, and much better line-of-sight which will let you far better see that the knob's top is square to the threaded nipple before you begin screwing it back on.
Once you've established that this is the case, place a finger on the middle of the cap, apply a little pressure, then slowly rotate the knob counterclockwise with your other hand's forefinger and thumb until you feel/hear a slight click, then stop. This is the lead-in groove of both the knob's and nipple's threads aligning. Now you can begin turning the knob clockwise to re-tighten it. If you feel any resistance whatsoever in the beginning, stop, then back it off and start again because there should be none for the first few turns. If all is well, you'll encounter some soft resistance as the knob's inside diameter encounters the O-ring at the base of the threaded nipple. This is fine.
Once you've finished the bearings, the pinion bearing can always use some oil. Remove the spool and avoid cranking the handle while it's out, but you can rotate it slowly if you need to without harming the gears. Tatulas, minus the 300, use the spool's shaft to partially support the pinion, so cranking the handle with the spool removed isn't wise. Reference the 4th picture to see where to add oil. Reinstall the spool, then the side-plate, then give it some spins. Assuming your gears and clutch mech are both properly lubricated, this will usually hold you over until a tear-down service is convenient.
This isn't shown with a picture, but you can oil the worm gear and its bushings or bearings from the outside. I use ReelX oil here. Since the reel is already in hand, crank the handle to center the T-Wing, the add oil to the worm gear shaft grooves both left and right of the T-Wing, then in each corner where the shaft meets the frame. Give it a good spin and you're good. This is super easy, and something I do every 3rd or 4th trip.
