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el Largo

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England area. 
  • My PB
    Between 3-4 lbs
  • Favorite Bass
    Largemouth

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  • About Me
    I've been fishing for a while, but am beginning to get more serious and educated in all things LMB fishing. 

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  1. Thanks for sharing that observation. The guy at BPS sold/set that up for me. What ML/reel combination strikes the right balance? I've been thinking about purchasing a new spinning reel and any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
  2. I've had some frustrating experiences with fluoro and am considering making the switch to copoly mostly for wacky rigging with my spinning rod on shallow waters. I'd appreciate any advice/recommendations on which line provides the most reliability when paired up with a spinning rod, as well as brand recommendations. I also believe that you (should) get what your pay for and don't mind investing in a high quality line. Additionally, please share any insights related to the role of the reel that I should take into consideration too. My current set up is a ML/EF spinning rod with an old Shimano Sienna FD 4000. Thank you.
  3. Beautiful spot. I’ve never fished there, but am hoping to this summer. Let us know how you made out!
  4. Hi All, There are endless tips, videos, tackle reviews on how to catch monster largemouth bass, but no articles on how to catch LMB's on the smaller size. I tend to fish smaller lakes in southern New England where largemouth bass average around 1 to 2 1/2 pounds and catching a 3 pound LMB is considered a big deal. Don't get me wrong, I wish there were lakes around me filled with hogs, however, that's just not the reality, and at the end of the day, it's just a lot of fun to get out there and fish! So here's my question.... In order to catch LMB's on the smaller side (around 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 lbs) what worms/lures/tackle, rigs, presentation, etc. work great at the end of the summer in clear lakes that are around 5-15 feet deep that don't have much structure? The lake I fish, unfortunately has a very healthy pickerel population, so that probably contributes to problem (bonus points for recommendations that help avoid catching pickerel too)! Thank you, el Largo
  5. Hi All, There are endless tips, videos, tackle reviews on how to catch monster largemouth bass. I tend to fish smaller lakes where there are lots of largemouth bass around 1 to 2 1/2 pounds and catching a 3 pound LMB is considered a big deal, but either way, it's just a lot of fun to get out there and fish! So here's my question.... what worms/lures/tackle, presentation, etc work great for catching LMB's on the smaller side at the end of the summer in clear lakes that don't have much structure? Thank you, el Largo
  6. Yes, that's correct. What's the big difference between the Curado 70 and the K? Sorry- my initial inquiry focused on why Shimano Curado K reels have fewer backlashes with centrifugal brakes than the Daiwa Tatula SV with its magnetic brakes, especially since magnetic brakes have a reputation for less backlashing. I think it just comes down to experience/practice and matching up the right reel with the right lure, as well as line and rod.
  7. The simplicity of this makes a lot of sense and is really appealing. Would someone using a baitcasting reel for the first time set the Shimano (is it a Curado 200K?) brakes to 2 or 3 if he's throwing 3/8 or 1/4 crankbaits?
  8. This is a really thorough comparison between the two reels- thanks! I actually checked out both in person today and preferred the Daiwa, but didn't make a purchase because they didn't have a right-handed reel. My "testing" was limited only to holding them and trying them on the rod, so I did't make any casts. That being said, the Daiwa was a little lighter, seemed more intuitive to use and I think are better to learn from. I'm also going to be using lighter crankbaits so the salesman said the Daiwa would be a better fit for me. Anybody have any experience using Sunline Shooter Defier?
  9. Great feedback! It's also inspired a couple more questions... how much does line factor (I would use mono) matter when it comes to backlash? Also, is there a rule of thumb for what to set your brakes at for lure sizes?
  10. Hi All, I've been using spinning rods since I began fishing, but I'm in the market to buy my first baitcasting reel. I don't get out to fish as much as I'd like to and because of that, I would like to buy a baitcasting reel that isn't prone to backlashes/bird's nest. I did my homework before writing my post and it seems that magnetic brakes are more "forgiving" than centrifugal brakes. However, in the reviews I've read (and I'm sure I've missed some) most people tend to think that the Shimano Curado 200K (with it's centrifugal brake system) does a better job at reducing backlashes than Daiwa's Tatula SV TWS, even though the Daiwa reel has magnetic brakes. If someone, like me, is wants a reel that isn't prone to backcasts, why wouldn't he/she buy the Daiwa Tatula SV TWS with the magnetic brakes? The reasoning seems a bit contradictory to me. Any thoughts and insight would be greatly appreciated. For what it's worth: 1) I don't have any allegiance to Daiwa or Shimano and only mention these reels because they fit my price point and seem to be a good investment; and I'm going to match up the reel with a Dobyn's 705CB. Bonus points for tips on how to learn to use a baitcaster and how to avoid backlashes and fix them! Thanks!
  11. Hi there, I'm looking to get some expert advice on crankbait rods and reels for largemouth bass. I've been fishing for a while, but inconsistently- from a time commitment perspective and species. I'm going to buy a new rod and reel specifically for crankbaits and have been doing a fair amount of research (maybe too much) to inform my decision on rod selection. Most of the forum questions, debates, etc seem to focus on brands (Dobyns, St. Croix, G Loomis and many more) and less on specific qualities/specifications of rods. From what I can tell and for my purposes (I fish on lakes where the max depth is 20' in some places; don't fish rivers; lures are mostly under 1 oz; and I'd like some versatility to be able to throw the occasional spinnerbait, lipless crank or popper lures), the ideal crankbait (spinning) rod appears to be a 7' medium power and fast action and either graphite or glass. A reel's gear ratio seems to range from 5:1 to 6.3:1, but since I mostly fish in shallow waters that are under 12' deep I should probably go with the 6.3:1 gear ratio. Does that sound about right to folks? Any additional insights/considerations are greatly appreciated too. For what it's worth, I'd like to spend under $250, which is a decent chunk of change, but I'd rather buy 1 great rod (for now) and not waste time and money. This leads me to my next, but less pressing question- if a rod meets all the necessarily qualifications/specs for it's intended technique, why spend a ton of money on a brand? Thank you very much, el Largo
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