cheezledzul

I actually ordered the 703c. 7' MH-F, not on my OP lol. I spoke to a club member and realized I wont actually be throwing a walking topwater all day every day right now. So it would be more beneficial at this moment to go with a very versatile rod like the 703c. Especially since the 7'3 is the closest i have to something like that. Im still going to get the 6'9 which i can use for lipless/squarebills/chatters/buzzbait/etc for the time being. I am just starting to build my arsenal so it made sense to get a rod I can use for multiple techniques and then specialize it when I get more rods. I can take a little more time to figure out exactly what kind of rod/rods I want for spooks/lipless/etc. once I start to develop a personal preference I can look at something like the 6'6 for topwaters. Plus Im trying to also figure out if I want a jerkbait rod, what kind Id need and what I can use on it as a 2nd/3rd technique. So a lot to figure out and now I have time to do so! Still youre advice is going to really come in handy so I appreciate it brother! Tight lines!

But you would use a Fast or extra fast tip not mod fast for topwater? What about if I use the 7'3 Fury for jigs and trigs, 6'9 mh-mod fast for chatters/spinners/buzzbait, and get a Fury 6'6 mh/f for topwater? I can get a good deal on a friends 6'9 MH - Mod fast st croix legend.

Hi All Im trying to decide between ordering 1 of 2 Dobyns Furys or going with a 3rd alternative option. The rod I am deciding on will be used primarily for weighted texas rigs and jigs. I already have a 7' medium-fast spinning rod that I will use for wacky rig, weightless texas rig and finesse (until I get a dedicated finesse rod). I also have a heavy flipping/pitching/punching stick. What is the average weight of a weighted plastics/jig rig? These are the 3 options I need help deciding between. The 2 Furys I am deciding between getting are: Option 1: - 703c - 7' MH-Fast - 1/4-3/4oz lure weight Option 2: - 704c - 7' Heavy-Fast - 1/4-1oz lure weight These Dobyns Furys actually seem like they could be Medium and Medium Heavy (respectively) when compared to other companies. Option 3: Use the 7'3" Heavy-Fast 1/4-1oz Fury, that I currently own, for jigs and weighted texas rigs instead of using it for chatterbaits, spinners, and buzzbaits like I was planning. (I think/thought the Heavy is more like a MH and the extra 3" will add a little give to the rod) If I choose to do that what Fury would I need for chatters/spinners/buzzbaits? Hope my questions are not too confusing. Im just trying to figure out what the best option is for me to go with. I live in lower NY and where we have a lot of submerged vegetation and lilypads most of the year (except spring). I will be traveling around the NE with KBF. Maybe that info will help. Thanks in advance! Side question. 6'6 MH-Fast 1/4-3/4oz or 6'9" MH - Mod Fast for topwater spooks, jerkbait and lipless/squarebills? If a mod-fast isnt good for topwater spooks then my last option/thought im considering would be 7'3 for jigs/trig, 6'9 mh-mod fast for chatters/spinners, and get a 6'6 mh-f 663c for topwater spooks/lipless/squarebills.

Do I tie around the hole only or through the hole, around the spool then knot?

My top image then? The bottom is only through the hole then tied. Not around the spool yet.

Thanks. Gonna check that out. Probably wont fill it up anyways since it's a pitch/flip/punch reel. More worried about how to tie. Check the pictures

Dosnt really answer my question. I dont think I need backing because of the hole in the spool (pictured). Which pic is the right way to tie it?

I have the lews superduty g and am putting on 65# 4 strand power pro. Website lists capacity at 150/50 braid. Theres a small hole on the spool so I dont think I need mono backing. I cant imagine how the line will slip/spin if tied through the hole. Also I'll pull it through the guide but do I tie the line around the whole spool and through the hole (top picture)? Or the bottom picture is only through the hole and tied? then it will around the spool after knotted. Which one? Finish with 3 overhand knots? Not worried about saving money with the braid. It's a flipping and punching rod. Probably can only get 75yds on there anyways.

Yep positive. they're all in pristine condition in their original packaging. A few I've opened have the skirts sticking together a little but I've been pulling them apart and seems fine. I'll check them after another day or two. Theres 2 types, V&V and VV pro-line with owner hooks. The hooks have a different shape and look. Didnt look very closely but seems legit, they're all 3/8 or 1/2oz. Pretty happy about this info. I'm making huge orders for my first season really fishing. Can pretty much cut a lot of jigs out of the order. Maybe some small finesse and heavier pitching/punching jigs and I guess a couple swim jigs for thick grass. But for the most part I dont need to order much to start. Basically just gradually getting 2 of every major lure over the next couple weeks. But first a lot of plastics and jigs so I can focus on that off the bat. April 1st starts kayak season! Tight lines everyone!

Came into a lot of old unused tackle and lures. Still in the original packaging from the 80s I think. V&V Pro-line Jigs with Owner hooks tournament series. The "arky" box is checked off not football. I have 6 1/2oz and 6 3/8oz. Couldnt find much info on these. What are they used for and how do I fish them?

Ive been told to look at the feel free and sea ghost but I have not heard much about vibe compared to jackson. Also someone in my club swears by feel free (he has higher end models). This is what I mentioned earlier. the SeaGhost is $830. It comes with a rudder system, 2 sealed hatches (although i only see 1 dry well), a center console and a paddle. why is this only $30 more than the Bite when it has those extra features? the paddle alone is probably $20 give or take.

If or when i ever get the chance to check out a kayak before i buy it how could I check for mold issues or flaws? is it just dents or waves? The video I saw the guy appeared much bigger than myself. I doubt over 300lbs but not a horse jockey. For $800 its hard to argue like you said. But durability and stability are the main deciding factors like I said. Since I dont think any shops demo by me I was just going by the 35" width for stability. But the lack of dry storage and "extra features" does have me questioning why it is only $800 compared to some kayaks that have more bells and whistles for only a couple more bucks. Thats the question that is making me most hesitant I guess. Why do other kayaks in this price range seem tp have more features???? Its basically an open deck. Youd think that would make it even cheaper.

What do you mean by oil canned? The stability is worrying me, a big reason I like the bite is that it is 35" wide and seemed very stable from a video I saw. I loved the rod stagers they built into the deck of the bite. I have a rod holder between my legs and I dont see many that have that on the bigger yacks. It dosnt have a lot of compartments but that is something I seem to like. Ive heard that the Jackson hulls are sturdy and just as good as any other company. Ive also heard that they are questionable. Durability is a huge deal to me so Im not sure where to go from here as far as durability goes.

I may be coming into some money due to unforeseen circumstances (wont be for at least a month). Therefore what kayak should I buy for less than $800? Also any news on the Jackson Bite? I have narrowed it down to basically the Bite as far as new kayaks go. Ill still take any recommendations though. What used kayaks would you recommend that would fall in the $800 or less range and why would you choose it over a new Bite? The Bonafide RS117 looks interesting also but im not sure I need the dry wells and I kind of like the open deck of the bite. Plus its 2"wider and almost 10lbs lighter I believe. Any reviews on the RS117? Its a little out of my price range as well. I'm 5'6" 160lbs and must be able to stand. Aside from that I usually prefer new but idt used kayaks will have hidden problems like other things would. What used options could I find for that price? I AM LOOKING FOR QUALITY AND VALUE OVER BELLS AND WHISTLES. If I can spend less that's great. Standing and durability are my specific desires but my balance is pretty good and im not too heavy as is.. Thats why the Bite at 35" wide and lack of moving parts seems attractive. I will only have 2 rods, 3 at most in the distant future. I will transfer most accessories from my current yak so dont need to factor that cost in aside from maybe a paddle. My current yak is 30"w I believe. I dont carry a lot of items that need to be dry so a dry bag will do in most scenarios, dry wells are not a factor that is make it or break it. Ill be fishing a local tournament series this year. I primarily fish small lakes and some medium (local lakes are not that big). I will occasionally be fishing larger lakes especially when I start fishing in KBF events. I wont be able to use a trailer so for now I will have to strap it to crossbars or my J bars. I would love a pedal but do not want to and can not spend well over $1k for one. I dont mind paddling for that cost. Sorry for the long post. I will have this kayak for a handful of years before I can even think about buying a new one so I would like to be thorough, even more so than usual lol. I dont have the ability to test kayaks, the closest shops are 1:30 from me and they are scarce. Thanks in advance!

So no matter what I need to stop the spool just before the lure hits the water. But theoretically if I want to cast without thumbing it throughout the cast I would have the breaks higher? If I want to lower the brakes then I do have to thumb it through out the cast?

I know im a little late to this party but I just got a tatula ct in the mail and Im overall new to baitcasters. Just to clarify, because it has not been touched on, even if the mag z brake system is set correctly you should still thumb the spool before the lure hits the water correct? Im assuming it hasnt been mentioned because its an obvious answer but for someone like me who is learning on his own its not. I learned on a Lews reel and was told as long as I set the reel correctly with each lure I can cast and only have to thumb the spool right before the lure hits the water. This has worked for me so far as Ive only had 2 backlashes. Both because I wasnt paying attention and hit the water on my backswing. So is this still the case? I have not tried the Tatula yet but its spooled and ready for warmer weather (10 degrees right now). Do I have to thumb the spool the entire time from start of cast to finish or just before touchdown or not at all if the brakes are set correctly? I thought I saw someone mention they dont thumb their spool at all and maybe thats the case with everyone that uses daiwa's mag system? Which would explain the missing explanation. I was also told that I should set the braking system for a 1/2oz lure and if done correctly I shouldnt have to change the brake settings for lure changes unless the weight drops below 1/4oz or there is heavy wind. The mag braking system allows me to basically set it and forget it. Whereas other reels you need to set it with every lure change. Sorry for the rambling and long post. Just confused and want to make sure I get this correct. Thanks in advance!

I was planning on going straight braid but was questioning if I should go up to 20lb or 30lb. Or neither and go floro? What's your opinion

Not gonna go through that hassle, I'm more than happy with the fury. Plus I as able to get a charger for my fish finder battery and a chatterbait for the cost of shipping. My girlfriend ordered it for my birthday. Unless you think it's a significantly better rod...

Americanlegacyfishing.com had them for 20% off plus another 10% if you sign up for the newsletter. Just realized that it was 20% off all dobyns rods. so I could have gotten the Sierra fr around 110. Big dummy.

Agreed! but since im only going to have 2 rods for the forseeable future I wouldnt have minded spending a little more for a little better. First world problems eh?

DAMNIT!!! I already ordered the Fury 734. I wish I saw the Sierra, I would have ordered that instead! I got the fury for $79.99 though. Not a bad deal from 110. Im hoping I can deal with the extra 3". I liked the fact that it wont load as fast as the 704. Maybe the difference is negligible but its going to be my last rod for a while and want to cover as many styles as I can. Hopefully it will be a little more gentle on treble hooks.

I fish from a kayak. He did not mention the 705. I think its probably because thats more specifically for cranks whereas i need something that can work ok for everything right now. I was worried it may mess with walking baits, I use a spook right now for top water. hopefully It will walk ok because I really want to keep my medium rigged with a plastic to go after a miss.

Just spoke to someone in customer service. He recommended the 734c instead of the 704c. It will be a little more of a multi purpose rod because the extra 3" wont load up as fast as the 7' 704c. But i can still throw frogs, flip/pitch in a pinch if I wanted. That sounds ideally what I need since Im gonna be putting lures with trebles on it mostly. This sound right to you guys? Thanks for your help!

How could I do that? Calling their customer service?

New question, for a rod like this would I want a 7:3:1 or 8:1 retrieve for my reel? Or faster? Ill be using mostly cranks, chatters, spooks and maybe occasionally ill use it to flip/pitch in heavy weeds. The lakes I fish in have a lot of vegetation so thats why Im considering a higher ratio. To keep it out of any weeds and structure. But im afraid it will rip the treble hooks out every time