kshays

Looks like the size coming from the carb to tees was 4mm. Took the hose with me and could not find any 5/32 barb tees. Found 1/8 and 3/16 and the 1/8 fit better than the 3/16 I thought. Putting a small zip tie on the hose should prevent it from slipping off, although it did fit "snug" anyway. Kevin

I believe I am going to go a hose shop tomorrow and bring the hose with me. I do believe there are two different size hoses on mine. The ones that go to the actual carbs are a stiff hard plastic hose which I will probably replace with a better fuel hose and the main one is a little larger if I'm not mistaking. I just hate to buy them online and then get them and not be the correct size even though the listing is for that size. When I get them I will post back, ty

Thanks, have a good night!

Does anyone know the dimensions for the OD on this particular tee? I thought about trying to find a brass tee to replace or would that be overkill? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Johnson-Evinrude-New-OEM-Plastic-Tee-Fitting-0313537/571272110 For a 86 Johnson 70hp. Thanks!

That is good news on the stator. I've learned a lot since last year on outboards, but there is just so much more I am lacking. Youtube videos only go so far and cannot replace real world experience someone has. If this was a server/pc I would be in my comfort zone as I've been doing IT for almost 30 years now, but it's not and it's something I would like to learn. That is what was in the back of my mind taking it to a marine dealer, they would just replace parts at random. The DVA looks simple enough to make. I have been looking at the model # of the engine and either buying OMC/Johnson or CDI parts. I won't buy anything used to replace as I do not know the history of it for the motor. Thanks for the info Keith. Kevin

Hey Keith, It is a 1986 Johnson 70hp. I do have the manual on cd as well now. I am not sure how long ago some of the parts were replaced so I have been replacing some parts that appear bad just in case I really did not want to replace the stator unless I had to. It sure can get expensive by just throwing parts at it, which I really do not want to do without knowing if it's bad or not. I'm pretty sure my dmm just stores the peak voltage. I may also see how much it would cost a marine shop to take a look at it if I cannot find what's causing the issue. ty!

Just replaced power pack, still no spark on top two.

Update: All coils look good, spark plug wires look good. The top two wires coming from the power pack to the top 2 coils are not sparking though. Checked coils with DMM and swapping them around as well. So it looks like the top and middle wire going to the pack is messed up or perhaps the stator? Is there anyway to check those wire plugs that connect to the coil besides just replacing the pack? ty, Kevin

Update: Carbs looked fine. Replaced water pump and gear oil last night just because I already had it ordered before this happened. Gas is no longer leaking out (not sure why), however the top and middle is not sparking. Will try to test all the coils and wires out tonight if possible.

Finally got around to checking on the motor this weekend. Last fall when I did a compression test the results were 131/131/130, however since I am not able to get the motor running at this moment I decided to just do a compression test with the motor cold to see what type of results showed. This time around they were 101/65/80 which I thought the rings were probably shot then. I am assuming even on a cold engine the differences between them should not be that bad.

Thanks guys for the input. I hope to start looking at it in the next day or two. I did not think a cracked head would do that either, but i'm not an expert on outdoor motors so i wanted to ask you guys for some input first ty, Kevin

Took the boat on the lake a few days ago and on the way back had to use the trolling motor for about 1.5 miles to get to the dock. Motor started to lose power and then would not start at all. Got it home and only thing I have done so far is a visual inspection and this is what I saw. I have not taken anything out yet and was wanting to see opinions if any from what the video shows perhaps. I've been told the block is more than likely cracked, but hopefully it isn't. The carbs have all been rebuilt last summer and all new fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter also. Trying to decide if it's worth checking myself or taking it to a marine service center or not. Thanks!

Very true! That's how we learn I really did not think about it since I primary fish with fluoro. The lakes are so clear where I'm at is why, but I may start doing a fluoro leader to braid. ty!

I ended up putting about an inch of electrical tape on it while ago also. Kevin

Michigander, Wow, I put dot on the edge of the spool with a sharpie and pulled the line and this is what happens. The line just spins around the spool, did not even think of that. I did put a small piece of tape on the knot, but looks like it didn't hold though. Kevin

Finally had a chance to take the reel apart and look at it. I do think the drag needs to be upgraded. I had to wipe a lot of excess grease off the drag. I put it back together and it's better than what it was for sure. Yeah, It's 20lb braided. Not sure why I did not see this on my chronarchs over the years lol.

Got a shimano slx for a gift a few months back and everything was good looked like. The other day I went to cast and noticed it would not reel in the line. After several attempts I got it to reel the line back in, however I can pull the line by hand from the spool extremely easy even with the drag tight. I did check the drag to make sure it was tight. Just wanted to see what others thought it could be before I start taking it apart tomorrow. Thing is brand new basically. Thanks, Kevin

Zip tie was lodged at the bottom reed just like the picture below. Was unable to see without taking the reeds off.

I think I found the problem, not sure how I didn't see it before though. Thanks for the info on the reeds, I'll know what to look for now That one that managed to get in the small fuel line is beyond my imagination too. What turned out to be a simple fix looked like, took me a lot longer than I imagined, however with you guiding me and a couple others I have really learned quite a lot in the process. I'm glad it was nothing major and appreciate all the guidance! Kevin

Hey Keith, When I first changed out the fuel lines I found the end of a zip tie about 2" long stuck in one of the smaller lines. Well I found what appeared to be a zip tie that had been cut off at one point lodged between the reeds. The reeds look like they are in good shape, but I am probably going to get a set to put up. Do these look ok to you? https://chriscarsonmarine.com/product/ccms-omc-johnson-evinrude-sport-reed-valves-50-75hp-3-cylinder-1968-1999-pn-133s/#wpcf7-f7-o1 I just put the muffles on to see if anything was spitting out while ago and there is nothing spitting at all now. The rpm's are really close to each other now as well even though I only let it run for 5 minutes probably if that. I am still puzzled as to how those small black zip ties made their way in a fuel line and in the reeds. ty, kevin

Was going to order some new reed valves so I took it apart this evening and found another zip tie wrapped around the bottom plates. How do you know if the reed valves are bad, can see light through them? ty, kevin

I have not made it to the lake yet. Do I need to let the engine warm up any before performing the tests? I've only got a simple greenlee mm right now so I'm pretty sure that's not going to work lol. I've messed around with some electrical stuff before in the past, you are probably right in finding a DYI diagram for it. Thanks!

Keith, I'm going to go back maybe tomorrow if nothing comes up and try again. I did find it off it was descending from each spark plug, kinda made me think I was not doing it exactly correct. LOL, that's all I need is for it to be misfiring Kevin

Ty for the reply Rocketvapor! I'm still new to the whole boat/outboard motor stuff lol, but learning a lot in the process from you guys! I don't have a clue either really about different readings or if they are supposed to do that since each one was descending. Got home and found out central heat/air was not responding at all so had to deal with that also, but luckily eat was a heat relay switch or something like that the guy said. Costed under $100 so I was relieved Ty Kevin

Took it out on the lake today and from the top to bottom on the plugs the RPM was showing 1100, 600+/- and 450-480 on bottom. You just wrap it around the spark plug wire 5 times correct? Ty! Kevin