CI-200Bantam

Sorry to revive this a bit, but to close it out, there's no circuit board in the head. Apparently it sits in the part of the motor that sits in the water. Dad and I are just gonna replace the damned thing. If we open that housing where the propeller is I kinda doubt we'll be able to re-seal it again so we're just gonna upgrade. Thanks for the advice and help!

Did hook it up to a new, still no reaction though. Thank you for that advice @Scott F We popped the head open a couple days ago, no motherboard to be found. Only 2 wires (1 red, 1 black), which I suppose run electric power to the motor @Jig Man Will do @bassaholic thank you very much for the offer!! Have not check the brushes nor inspected the motor Tom. I've got a couple final exams to finish tomorrow but I think that'll be our next step. Do you know if there are any useful YouTube videos on how to go about the disassembly by chance @WRB ? Electronics are not our thing and a video would certainly help lol

Evening ladies and gents, Preface: If this has been answered before, my bad. Tried finding similar cases with the search feature, couldn't. My dad and I have been using the quarantine time to get all the maintenance stuff done on our boat+trailer we haven't gotten around to yet, including getting the bow-mounted MotorGuide TM running (again). So far, the motor is completely unresponsive. We know so far: - TM is getting power - current tester on the unit reads "fair" - enough power to run the unit in the past - New battery in the controller - Leads are newly cleaned And that's it. Poked around in the circuit board of the controller with a voltmeter, got back about 3v, the same as the battery kicked when out of the controller so I think the controller circuit board is working. Maybe. Some questions to start this if anyone can help: - Is there a way to definitively test if the receiver in the TM and/or the transmitter in the wireless controller is working? Since the motor is wholly unresponsive, my gut tells me its one of the two. - Where is the circuit board in the TM located? We think its in the lower unit - worth popping it off and seeing if anything in there's fried? - Can wireless TM's be modified to be wired? Getting pretty sick of chasing these gremlins down every year Motor information: - Motorguide W55 wireless (foot-pedal controller); runs off 12v battery - Model number of motor: 970100030 - Bout 7-8 years old now, pretty heavily used (fresh and salt, but mostly freshwater); was bought new Any advice would be really appreciated. Really not trying to drop a couple hundred bucks on a new trolling motor at the moment.

Sorry to revive this thread, but I just got around to buying and installing the parts. The Cast Control Cap I got fits (【SHIMANO】 Avail Mechanical Brake Knob 【SCPMG】 - Hedgehog studio), but it is slightly wider than the stock plastic one, so the outside of the knob rubs on the outside of the reel minutely. I' m not worried about that though, just makes it a little harder to turn. The star drag I got was a couple millimeters too small (meaning when I install the handle on top of the star, there's a gap that keeps the star from gripping and turning the nut under it that actually decides the drag setting). I realized after trying to install it that its the part for the 1000-size Scorpion, so the Citica 100 I guess. But, the nut the star drag came with fit the threads on my Citica so if I get the correct sized star drag it will work. The star drag was SHIMANO Star Drag SD-SCP-A for (CHRONARCH 50mg, CURADO D, Scorpion 1000) (Color: BLACK, Handle: Right Handle) (also Hedgehog Studio) Thanks for the advice fishballer!

Alright. Thanks for the input Riverrat!

I'll look into that spoon too. Seemed like that would be really good for exceptionally thick cover. Thanks Catt! Lol I'll keep that mind

Thanks for the tip Catt! I'll be sure to touch up the point before going out again. Riverrat, are there any conditions you would favor one of the spoons over the other? I know they have pretty different actions and I'll use different spoons to mimic different forage but I'm not fully sure what fish species I'm trying to mimic in heavy grass.

Alright thanks Catt!

Good article. Thanks for posting it!

Evening all, I've been using spoons like ACME Kastmasters and Daredevils for a while now for yellow perch and bass year round and have been doing pretty good with them. Recently I decided to start using weedless spoons too. I remember using a gold-plated Johnson Silver Minnow when I started fishing with my Dad and never caught anything on it (until a snook snapped the darn hook) so I thought I might try some other weedless spoons along with them too). The Gator spoons look like they might be promising with the cut-out on the back to hold soft plastics on. Any of you guys ever try any of them? Any opinions? Or advice on which weedless spoons work? Thanks, Max

Evening gents, I'm a PA native that's going to school in NJ at Rutgers University. The biggest bucket-list fish I have on my list are grinnel (AKA bowfin). I know they're found a fair amount in the Potomac (along with snakeheads) but what options are there in NJ for bowfins? I've never seen one in PA, from what I've heard they're pretty few and far in between, except maybe out West by Ohio. If you guys could give me any direction in where to find them (not specific or secret spots or anything, just generally which bodies of water hold them) and how you guys target them if any of you do, I'd really appreciate it! The only rod and reel I'll have at school's an old school Shimano Citica paired to a med-heavy Ugly Stik, and I'm sure they'll hold up to the fight fine (caught several muskie, snook and bluefish on this rig before) I just don't know where to look for the fish. - Max

My personal best largemouth came out of Marsh Creek Lake in SE PA a few years ago. Scorching hot day in mid-August, perfectly clear water (we were in a drought at the time) where you could see all the weeds and fish slipping around 15-20 feet below the keel of our boat. Dad and I had caught a couple bass up 2lbs that morning on crankbaits and minnow baits, but nothing was biting after about 10AM. Right around lunch-time we're fishing a deep weed bed with jigs and I switch to a spinnerbait with orange and yellow in the skirt to mimic a yellow perch. After fishing that for a bit, I toss the spinner behind our boat and prop the rod on the floor and under the corner of the cleat in the back corner of our boat and sit down for a drink, trolling the spinner slowly cause we're cruising along the weed bed with the trolling motor running. As soon as I open my water bottle, the rod bucks like the bait locked up on a log and the drag starts running. I dive for the rod to make sure it doesn't go in the drink and fight the 6+ lbs bass that engulfed the spinnerbait, keeping it hooked after several jumps and tailwalks. As soon as it got to the boat Dad netted her and we both started shouting we were so excited!

Hi everyone, Does anyone know if there is a different model reel (i.e. Castaic, Curado 200BSF, etc.) whose cast control cap is metal and can replace the plastic one for the old 200B Curado and Citicas? I have an old Citica I've been using for almost a decade and have been replacing parts as I go, and have recently found the parts starting to get hard to come by. I`ve broken one of these caps before, so if I could replace with a metal one and not worry about it I`d like to. Thanks!

Evening gents, I`m looking to take a friend fishing this weekend, but we may end up going in Sussex County, up by where she lives (I`m from SE PA). After doing a couple Google searches, it seems Cranberry Lake might be a good option. Anyone here ever fish up that way/know how crowded the lake is generally on the weekends? Any help would be appreciated!

Evening gents, I`m busying upgrading my old Shimano Bantam Citica, just cause I like the reel and its fun to do, and I recently realized how hard parts are to get for it (I busted the plastic cast control cap, and it took me a while to find a replacement), so I figured now is as good a time as ever to change the reel a bit. One upgrade I haven`t been able to find for the reel is a replacement for the black plastic drag star that it comes with. I`d like to replace it with a metal star just cause it feels flimsy to me. So, my question is has anyone tried to replace the drag star of their Citica/Curado) with the same generation Chronarch drag star? If it helps any, I have the Bantam Citica CI-200B (So the same generation as the Curado BSF). Thanks for the help! - Max