mtsaz

I have lowrance carbon 3d- but in this case I would get the humminbird. Its got a transducer, and will do everything and more that you would need in a kayak- PLUS- if you ever move it to another boat- it will allow you to tap into another unit- so you could put it on the bow (resale). Lowrance is very very good- like I say I have 2 of them but I would be very careful about making sure it has the transducer -totalscan and not just the skimmer. The total scan transducer alone is like 300$ so I would be very cautious to make sure its complete (the way you want it). I know why they do it- (sell without transducer) but its also very confusing at times. Humminbird always includes transducers---which is nice- because you can sell them if you have extras. I've seen the lowrance units cost the same without transducer as those with- so its never a certainty.

TROJAN and NORTHSTAR---both made in US- with highest quality components. Cabelas batteries are very good too as an option if you cant find trojan or northstar.

actually that is not the issue- you need to get a resistor in that circuit. This is the kind of thing you need- https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-50W-6-ohm-Load-Resistor-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Hyper-Flash-Turn-Signal-Blink/281678992211?hash=item4195605353:g:sgQAAOSw0UdXtfUi I am not sure exactly - but its the leds' not where they are made. True- more expensive LEDS will have this built in- but that is what you need to fix the blinking.

THE REEL AT CABELLAS IS OUT OF STOCK AND UNABLE TO BE PURCHASED AT THIS TIME---their message when you try to buy it online- and it says out of stock at the store I go to and about 5 others I checked --in other states.

Thats it- walmart.com has the NON stradic c14 (st2500HGFK) for 159 with free shipping. Here is the link- https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shimano-Stradic-ST2500HGFK-Spinning-Fishing-Reel/48667647 I don't know what the difference is- but if its a good price- and a good reel- then thats what counts. wow gotta love that cabellas giftcard for 80$. That brings their retail prices in line with discounters and their sales in line with amazon/ebay. So that 20% off is huge. I should buy 300-400 of them and get a boat for 20% off. I am not sure how happy they would me with me marching in there with 300+gift cards to buy a boat. I am joking, but thanks for letting me know about that.

HI- I want to spend about 100$ for my wifes spinning reel. she had an old old old mitchell 400 something- like from the 1960s- and it worked--and still does--but its a antique. I had a few old 1980s daiwa BGs--that I actually bought in japan- for like 20$ in USD- and they are worth a lot today- because I guess daiwa thought they would last a year or two --not 40- but they do/did. I know the new made in china BG is not the same as the old made in japan BG and has ridiculous gimmics like air spool or whatever they call it- I guess it saves like 1/4 oz of weight- who cares. But- what would you all get? For me- I am thinking of a baitrunner or a stradic ===walmart.com has a stradic (non c14) that is about 150$ for the 4000 size. What are those cheaper stradics? Thank you!

go to this page---https://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/lighting/ scroll down so you can see the wiring color codes/what wire/plug location does what. Then start checking continuity. You can put the meter on the vehicle ground (somewhere--not painted metal) and on the trailer (not painted) when the lights are plugged in and you should get near zero resistance (ohms). if you don't then you have a ground issue between car and trailer--and they have to be one and the same potential-- since the car battery is powering the lights on the trailer. Make sure that is resolved before you do anything else. Once you have a good ground- between the trailer- and the car or truck- you can start isolating each individual light circuit- but it sounds like once you get your ground straight this will solve most of your problems. Once you know you have good ground, check for 12v. Put the parking lights on and make sure the 12 v is coming thru ---even if the lights dont work- just make sure you have 12v. If not- then its shorted or ---once again- there is a fuse or wiring problem to the connection between trailer/truck. Once you get SOME light working- then its much easier to sort out the problem and get the right colored wire to the right light. You don't know if your lights are all good, fuses all good, ground, or connections--so start with most likely (ground) and work thru the list. This is not complicated---frustrating at times yes- but not complicated. Don't over complicate it. Just think about it and study the diagrams on the website I sent you too--that is the standard for all boat trailers so once you get it right- your truck will properly light any boat trailer. The ground has to be first or nothing will work. Then- the powerIf you need help, we are here. I am new to this forum, but I am an electrical engineer and it sounds like the other guys are equally as or much more knowledgeable than me- so there is plenty of help.