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BIG M

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Everything posted by BIG M

  1. jasone, I've used that method to cover sticky spots on at least 50 cranks baits, it works every single time.
  2. Here are a few new birhtday baits I made for my brother. Now if I can only keep the out of the water before the big day :
  3. jweis, at 15 dollars a bait I gather you talking lucky craft or another top maker. I would not add any topcoat to those baits. You could kill the action and/or cause a suspending bait to be sinker. Those plastic baits a very finicky when comes to increasing the weight and an epoxy topcoat will increase the weight. No topcoat can protect against a hard hit on rocks or your boat.
  4. dampeoples, here's a tip for finishing the garolite lips. use 400 grit sandpaper it will smooth em down.
  5. wipe the bait down with rubbing alcohol and re-coat with epoxy, works everytime. make sure you get a good mix on this batch.
  6. It takes a big lip like that to go deep, those baits were made to hit 18+ feet. The coffin shape helps with kicking off of structure. If you ever want to explore the depths of your lake you will need a bait with a big lip to hit 10 feet or more. The length of the lip is more important than the width. I don't fish the real deep ones very often, only on a couple lakes. I don't have a good feel for them, I like the shallow and med running baits myself.
  7. Wickyman, those dive lips are made from g-11, I think it's Garolite. It is 1/32" thick and has very little to no flex, it's the best lip material out there IMHO. I also use polycarbonate 1/16" thick but that stuff will flex when used for a real long lip.
  8. I just finished these for a new friend I met on this forum. I hope he likes all three.
  9. Thomas, wildlife colors by Smith paints, it's a water based taxidermy paint and the company has a real nice color selection.
  10. great job John, repairing old beat up baits is an art. That netting under the foil is really cool but man what a pain in the butt to do. I stay away, far away from the foil, my hats off to ya.
  11. I can say one thing for sure, that's not your first time with an airbrush. That is some serious painting (from someone that knows) If you ever want to shoot some balsa bodies worth putting your name on let me know.
  12. Allen, all my baits get a base coat of pearl white, then I use some pearl paints, iridesent (spelling) paint is what you see on those baits to give that look. It really shows up in the sunlight. I also have some peal additive for paint and I'll shoot that on a finished bait to get a pearl effect.
  13. BIG M

    new prop bait

    Nick, I have'nt really fished that bait yet, but I wore them out on one just like last summer. Wickyman, if you like the bait just shoot me a PM and we'll talk.
  14. Wickyman, it's called tulle and you can get it at Wally World in the fabric dept. Get a couple of the cheap wood hoops (different sizes) and stretch that stuff semi tight in the hoop. lay on your bait and shoot your paint, it takes a couple of lures to get the hang of it. thanks for the kind words
  15. BIG M

    new prop bait

    wickyman, I got all the components from Jann's Netcraft, it's a thru wire harness and no weight has been added to the belly so that it will roll on it's side when you pull it. The #4 hook on the belly holds it upright at rest.
  16. this one is 3/8oz and makes a nice rip in the water.
  17. Here are some new light action baits weighing 1/4oz to 3/8oz.
  18. stay away from the acrylic for your lip it will crack and break off in cold water, you want polycarbonate 1/16" thick or g-11 1/32" thick both can be found at www.mcmastercarr.com. Take your fav. crank and make a copy of it on a copy machine. Now you have the profile, trace that on your wood mark your lip slot and belly hook (balast weight goes there).take a protactor make the lip angle and cut that while the bait is still square, drill the hole for the balast, and get some 20 gage stainless steel wire to make your hookhangers and line tie. When you get this far let me know and I'll help you finish it off.
  19. that is a good looking lure and very impressive for you first try. Here a little tip for the eyes, take a big nail and dip the head in the color paint you want for the eye. Then touch it to the bait just once and hit with a hair dryer on low. Take a smaller nail and dip the head in black for the center, make sure the first coat of paint is dry. You'll get eyes that lay flat on your bait. I need to go digging and see if I can still find my first success.
  20. There's nothing to it but practice and more practice. All you need is a good airbrush (Iwata) spend the extra money now or you will be doing it later, compressor (cheap one from harbor freight), filter trap, paint (wildlife colors airbrush paint) and your ready. Ask any questions you have right here and you will get the answers.
  21. balsa wood because it is the easiest to carve, sand, and weight. www.balsausa.com
  22. I recieved Triton21's care package today, and WOW!!! I've got to learn how to fish jigs now. Thanks Kelly it was a pleasure trading baits with you.
  23. I hate to give you the bad news but that bait is done. trash it.
  24. Whitemike, you need to learn how to build the baits and perfect you skills before trying to start a business.
  25. BIG M

    deep diver

    The hook hangers are placed that way for a different look, no special reason. thanks for the kind words John.
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