BIG M

You can get all the info you need right here, do a search for all post by Whittler (he builds a solid crankbait). topwaters are not the easiest baits to build, you might want to start will a shallow running flat sided bait to get your feet wet. Balsa wood is the easiest wood to carve and shape. The finish on my baits and whittler's is not from the paint, it's clear topcoat. I use water based paint and the topcoat makes it water proof. get you some 1/2 thick balsa, 20gage stainless steel wire, a good carving knife, 150 and 400 grit sandpaper. when you have your supplies, I can help thru the rest. welcome to the darkside

Smalljaw, basswood is easier to carve but I like cedar for jerk baits. I would think a 4 inch long bait would work for what you have in mind. Take a look at a pic I posted in GMAN's thread, top right of the pic is a 4 inch wake bait. Is that like the bait you want to build?

Basscatcher, some guys call that a kill spot, others call it a shad dot and swear by it. I use it to catch fishermen as most guys want it on the bait. John, I've been out in the shop for weeks trying to catch up to you. If I ever learn how to paint I'll be slightly dangerous. Dampeoples, would you please quite posting those pics , no matter how much I practice I can't get to your level with the airbrush. You are really doing some fine realistic patterns. Show me some more please.

first what type of wood do you want to use. draw you body profile on cardboard and mark the lip slot and belly weight or weights. transfer from your template to the wood and cut it out on a band saw or scroll saw, make sure to cut the lip slot first while everything is square. mark the center for the balast weight and drill it out with a press, if you BPS finess weights it's a 1/4 bit for 1/4oz weights. that should get you started. How big of a bait are you thinking about?

here's my latest work

GMAN, those are some really nice looking plastics.

Booyah, I started working on that bait because the little rebel craws are very inconsistant in performance. After 6 tries I finally have it right, now if I can only learn to paint a craw color pattern. I also build that one in a bigger version, I'll try and get a pic posted. Thanks for the kind words

Joe, most store bought small cranks don't run true. Every one of those baits run true, all have a very tight wiggle. The baits range from 1.5 inches long to 2 inches. There are a couple of them slightly heavier than 1/8oz. Some are made from 1/2in thick stock and 3/8in stock.

Don't use those type of screw eyes in balsa wood, they won't hold. Cut the wire in about 2.5 inch long pieces. Bend around a nail in a U shape and twist the ends with pliers. All the twists in the wire will grab the epoxy, impossible to pull out without tearing a bait apart.

Here is a batch of ul's, all weigh 1/8oz and are fun to fish on 4-6lb line.

John, that matt finish looks good dry but looks like a clean clearcoat under water. But the customer is always right. Hookemdown, you can fish or build baits can you tell what I've been doing for most of the spring.

opinions please

John, your work is top notch. I'm going to shop now so I can practice some more.

Nick, I'm trying to find a paint combo that looks like a threadfin shad. This bait seems to look more like a gizzard shad though. As for the size and shape of the bait that depends on the size of the forage in a paticular lake. That's the good thing about building your own, I can match just about anything.

joe, if you are only fishing for bass and not some big toothy critters, a thru wire harness is not needed. Get some 18 gage stainless steel wire and twist your own line ties and hook hangers. I've never had one fail in 5yrs, and it takes less time to put your bait together. Let me know if you need more details.

islandbass, that was a much better idean than mine and really cool looking lure retriever. Two thumbs up on that one.

If you could find a 2-3oz egg sinker and some 18ga stainless steel wire. two pieces of wire, make a U shape on a nail and twist with pliers. epoxy both pieces in the sinker, add some split rings and duo lock snaps and it should work. I've never tried it, but I do hold a degree in Red Neck engineering.

I'm going to disagree with the fellas above (just a little) the web sites they gave a top notch, but don't go cheap on your brush and paint. A good quality gravity feed double action brush is what you want for baits. I only use Iwata brushes and wildlife colors taxidermy paint, imho the best products for what we do. I started with Iwata brushes and cannot give you a comparision to any other products. I've tried every water based paint on the market, wildlife colors is the easiest to use, never needs thinning.

Great looking work John, I've always liked the building more than the painting.

Matt, that's a good thought but I think it would more trouble than it's worth. The material I use is called garolite 1/32" thick and very tough. I also use 1/16" polycarbonate. the lips don't break.

Here's a little bait for the guys that like to fish shallow. Runs 4-6ft and really shakes the rod tip.

Just finished this bait, new lip design that will get it down to 20+ feet on 10lb line. Still trying to find a shad pattern that I really like.

Thanks for all the kind words Cephkiller, I only use balsa wood. But balsa comes in several different grades and some has a real cours grain. I also didn't got the extra mile to fill the grain in (those were for my brother free of charge). I can make so smooth you can't tell it's wood.

Thanks guys Fishin49er, that particular topwater is new one, it's a lot smaller than my other prop baits. I made it for small creeks and rivers, I hope to nail some smallmouth with that bait.

I've been a devcon 2ton user since I started making baits, it's all I know. But from post on other forums, e-tex lite might be the better choice for you as it is thinner than devcon, may give you the thin hard finish without too much bulk or weight. You will need a way to rotate those baits while the epoxy is curing. Good luck