BIG M

I got a 4 gallon pancake compressor from Harbor Freight for around 80 bucks. It is loud and I wear hearing protection when I'm painting. You need to get a good regulator and I recommend a water trap and a in-line filter on your airbrush hose. You can't have the air dry enough for good painting.

very, very, nice work.

There is a problem with those pre-made bodies. It is very difficult to cut the lip slot exact and also very tough to drill the exact center for the balast weight.

Eric, both baits are really sharp. I love that blue/grey over light grey, that would make a good crappie color pattern.

I think that balsa cranks are the best but if you look in the tackle making forum you'll see why ;D IMHO, balsa has the best action in the water. It is not as durable as plastic and usually more expensive, those are the downsides to balsa.

This was the last batch built and painted in 2007.

I purchased 1 start up brush and it was a sorry price of junk. I bought an Iwata and I've never had a problem since. I've got over 4yrs on my Iwata brush. If you have a hobby lobby in your town, check the paper every week for a 40% off cupon and get the best brush for the money.

A drying wheel is a must, now you will want to paint every bait in site. You can put several coats of devcon on that B3 without causing any problems. Bagley baits are so light to begin with.

I don't really understand your question, but each species of wood has a different density or weight. this means you need to pay special attention to how much balast weight you use and where it's placed. Balsa is the most forgiving wood to balast, cedar, and soft pine are not to hard to work with. Hardwoods a nearly impossible to work with without some power tools and lots of trial and error when it comes to getting the balast weight correct. Hope that helps a little.

Fourbizz, very nice color pattern there. Here's a little tip, put a coat of thinned devcon on the bait before you paint. It's all the surface prep that you will need.

GMAN, I have never considered a camo bait, how are the fish going to see it ;D But the pearl chart over white would be a simple color to do. Are you trying to talk me into something here

That 1 is real shallow, 2-3 feet depending on what size line.

Those are very nice, I remember seeing some of those pics on TU. Ernel is a very good bait builder but he's not my competition. He is a fellow custom bait maker that I consider a friend. There are a bunch of guys across the country that make outstanding crank baits. We are all trying to make baits of the highest quality and that catch fish.

Nothing sounds right about that brush, I had a passche vl that gave me nothing but fits. No matter what I did it would not spray right. I got an Iwata Eclipse and I've never looked back. www.dixieart.com, offers free shipping on orders over 65 bucks and has the cheapes prices on Iwata brushes. Just save your money untill you can get a gravity feed eclipse and a hose. You will be so much happier with an Iwata. Take a look at WASCO for taxidermy paint, wildlife colors by Smith Paint. I can spray 95% of their colors at 15-18psi, and you've seen how good the colors look in my pics. I know exactly how ticked you are right now, I've been there.

here are some med running flatsides and a couple of deep divers

single or double action brush? That is a lot of air pressure, I spray at 18 psi and kick up to about 25 for the few c-tex colors I paint with. After you dump the paint put some windex in the cup and see if the brush will spray the left over paint and windex. If you pull the needle out a little will it spray the paint then?

will it shoot water with out any spitting? I have trouble spraying black c-tex thru my brush sometimes, I have to bump up the air pressure a little. What pressure are you spraying at right now? You may have to bump up the pressure a little. The last thing to try is thinning the paint and see if it will spray.

I've never used brand of brush but it sounds like paint is dried in the tip. Does the needle feel like it's sticking when you back and forth? You can take a small dia. piece of wire and scrape out the tip and see if you get any paint out. How small is the tip dia. and what c-tex color where you trying to spray. I have to thin some c-tex colors to shoot thru my Iwata and it has a .35mm tip.

here are a few more, B2 and B3 copes and some med depth divers I'm starting to get tired but no rest for Big M right now, back to the shop.

The white lips I buy from Jann's, the green colored lips I cut myself.

www.nationalbalsa.com, there is a 25 dollar minimum order with them. Most hobby stores carry a small selection, but it is pricey.

Snap, I personally use duolock snaps on my baits, but I put split rings on the baits I sell.

Here are a couple of trap repaints and some deep divers

I've never tried thinning the devcon and don't know very much about the process. I would like to try Dick Nite's coat but it puts off some foul fumes and I do my finish work in the house. There is another 1 part clear being used by some. It's called Top Secret and I've heard some good reviews, but I don't know if it has the killer smell. It is a 1 part epoxy marine coating, I have been itching to buy some to try out.

I use Minwax polyurathane ultra clear and spray 5 coats. It is not as durable as devcon but holds up pretty good. I would guess any of the spray on urathanes will work, just do a test piece to make sure there not bad reaction with the paint. I want to see some finished lures.