papajoe222

Only if the charger specifies that it charges them individually. Most do, but my old two bank didn't and I would have to disconnect the jumper when charging. If you don't have the manual on your charger, you can contact the company, or search the model online to find out.

If you're looking to stay with a passenger vehicle, any of the midsize SUVs with 4WD should fit the bill nicely.. I have a 10yr old Honda Pilot that has pulled my Tracker without problems since I bought it.

For years I've had two spinning combos rigged with yellow line for teaching kids about line watching. With my eyesight being hindered by my advancing age, I'll be switching over my worming rod to yellow line also. While BPS HyperBraid is what I use for the kid's rods, I'm looking for a 'better' option for my casting gear. Any suggestions?

When I would get my limit, I would always pick up my jig combo. The ole adage is; Jigs catch big fish and that has proved itself to me time and time again. It doesn't have to be a pitching or flipping presentation either. I've put a lot of big fish in the live well dragging a mop jig over prime structure.

If you stop to think about it, a fish can't determine what's in his mouth. A tungsten weight is just that, weight. Not unlike the weight of natural prey. If there's something the fish feels is unnatural, it will reject it quicker than you can set the hook. If the bite was off, my money is on the fact that the fish were dropping your bait before you could react. No matter how good your reflexes are, or how sensitive your gear, a fish still has to have your bait in its mouth when you set the hook. The only time I wait to set the hook is on a topwater bite, in which case I wait until I feel weight at the end of the line.

Don't beat yourself up too much, it happens and I don't believe anyone does it intentionally. If you were gut or gill hooking fish on a regular basis, I'd recommend doing something about it. I've been fishing plastic worms for over 40yrs. and, although it's a rare occasion, it does happen. Since learning how to safely unhook a fish that has taken the bait too deep, I've all but eliminated that as a cause. Fish expiring in the live well is a whole different story. Again, here there are also steps than can be taken, but there were times a fish didn't make it to weigh-in despite doing everything I could. If there is an upside to this, it's that there are an abundance of fish in even the most pressured water and nature has a way of insuring that the species not only survives, but continues to replenish itself.

I discovered this 'wrong' way to retrieve a buzzer years ago on an early spring day. I found I could retrieve it slower than a Colorado bladed spinnerbait and still keep it up in the water column. I do just the opposite also, letting the blade of a Colorado spinnerbait break the surface multiple times during the retrieve. Both baits get some bone jarring strikes at times.

I remove the hangars and the original hooks, add a bigger than normal split ring and replace the hangars adding a drop of gel super glue to the holes. Now add a good quality treble and it'll swing freely. I've done that to all my original Zara Spooks and haven't had an issue with hook-ups or lost fish. I have switched to purchasing other walking baits, but I have a box full of Spooks and always reach for one of them first.

Missed you and your input Kent. Welcome back

A Revo Winch. Don't quote me, but I believe it's a 5.3:1 with a 100mm handle.

Chatterbaits. IMO, there are enough options to cover where they perform best, that adding another to my vast tackle assortment would just add possible confusion. They do offer the fish something different, but most guys use them more as search baits. I caught many a pike and even some bass trolling these and similar plugs in my youth. I still use the big ones, occasionally, trolling for musky.

I haven’t had much luck with underspins, but I rarely swim paddle tails other than as trailers on a swim jig. I have discovered, as with other baits, light colored ones work better in clear water under bright sunlight and darker ones for cloudy skies or stained water. This would fall in line with using an under spin for clear water/sunny skies.

The good news is that you can learn a lot about fishing off shore structure right here at Bassresource. tell us a little about your favorite body of water and your abilities as an angler in general. The more you can divulge, the easier it will be to help you get started.

I went that route for a few years. In fact, you may have gotten the idea from me.

I just finished a four day outing on one of my favorite lakes in northern Wisconsin. As this lake is fairly deep, deep cranking had been my go to summer presentation. After two hours of cranking, l was done. This old body just couldn’t continue to grind it out for ours, in spite of the success l’d been having. I opted for a 3/4oz Red Eye Shad letting it drop to the hard bottom and slow rolling it with occasional pauses. That produced a couple of fish, but when l began stroking it off the bottom things really picked up. looks like deep cranking is a thing of the padt for this old codgee.

Surface water temp is currently 74 and I figure that it should be fairly consistent down to the thermocline. The cabbage is just breaking here in the shallows. I’ll also be fishing the river if l can’t raise a ski during the day here. a Any tips fir the river?

I own 16 casting combos and 4 spinning combos along with another dozen or so rods. I rarely take more than five in the boat. Only when i feel that l may need to finesse a few bites to save the day will l add a spinning set-up.

You can add blade baits to give you a silent, tight wobble rather than a silent lipless. Like a RES, they have plenty of action on the fall, too.

I have a Mojo Bass in hvy/fast. It was the first heavy power rod I ever purchased and I found it to be too heavy for everything but punching. I basically use it for throwing lighter bucktails for musky. I went back to using the same rod in M/H fast for pitching jigs. If you're used to heavy powered rods, you'll probably like it. I know you're gonna like that Zillion.

In my neck of the woods, there are two general summer patterns; Weeds and off shore structure. If l’m tatgeting the weeds, i start on the outside edge closest to deep water and work my way in, punching if need be. There is also an inside weed line l’ll hit before heading out.

I normally target musky in the spring and late fall, rarely during the summer. I’ll be heading to upper WI for a bass tournament next week-end, but figure I can do a little musky fishing prior to it. Any advice on areas to target? Surface water temps should be in the low to mid 70s, but I figure it to be cooler deep. I prefer to cast, but trolling is an option. I have a small assortment of spoons and plugs designed for trolling, but am at a loss as to where, other than saddles and humps, to use them.

Exactly why I peg the weight above the worm. My reasoning for positioning the hook farther down on long worms is a belief that l have a better chance of a solid hook up, even though bass will normally strike at the head of their prey.

I’ve been using a 5/0 ofset worm hook for big worms, running it down an inch or so from the nose. my question is; What size/style hook do you guys use and do you hook them per usual, or further down the wom (how far down)?

Culprit7.5 Net Bait C-Mac zoom Ol Monster

3-5mph, but you want to match your scroll speed to how fast you're going.