papajoe222

I disagree, but I will agree that more small bass stay shallow than go deep in the summer and I discount schooling bass when talking about shallow fish. I'm referring to cover oriented shallow fish. The reason many believe that more quality fish go deep is because those deep fish tend to congregate in the same areas whereas the bigger fish that stay shallow are loaners. If you take into account all the shallow cover that has the potential to hold a big bass and compare it to the few spots that hold numbers of quality fish found on deep structure, you'll understand my reasoning. That being said, If you're looking to catch numbers of bigger fish, targeting those off shore fish gives you better odds. You'd need to fish a lot of cover and be able to distinguish which cover has better potential for holding a big fish for that shallow strategy to pay off in numbers of bigger fish. The fishing pressure the shallow bass receive vs. the deeper fish also contributes to your opinion.

What you may want to ask yourself first is where should the fish be? Let that determine which type of bait to start out with. Rising water temps and stable weather should have them moving toward the shallows while falling temps and changing weather will likely have them retreating. That being said, always remember that there are no set in stone rules when it comes to bass fishing, so don't be afraid to try something. I caught bass this week on a Zara Spook and a buzzbait and the surface temps were only in the low 50's.

Fish a minimum of 4 new, out of state lakes. It's actually not that difficult a goal as I am less than an hour from Indiana and Wisconsin is only slightly farther. I cut back on travel to fishing destinations due to gas prices year, but with the close proximity of those two states and the abundance of lakes within a couple of hours drive, baring medical problems, I should be able to accomplish it.

There is something about the bait you're throwing that is attracting fish. When this happens, a simple change in you retrieve can them to commit. You already know the depth of the fish, so cast out and engage the reel, This will allow it to fall on an angle toward you. Count it down to that depth and slowly pump the rod tip up, picking up slack on the fall. Another retrieve is to count it down to the depth, begin reeling and every fourth or fifth crank of the reel handle, burn it for a couple of turns and let it fall back down. At the very least, change retrieve speed multiple times on each cast. A color change can produce the desired effect, but involves cutting and retying.

I have found fish using my electronics, but their intended use, for me, is to find cover/bait on some structural element. That combination says: Fish Here, to me. I'll use a presentation that quickly covers that area in search of active fish. I'll continue using that approach if successful until it no longer produces and then switch to something like a tube, Ned, or drop-shot to try to get a few more bites from the area. Under tough conditions, or if a faster presentation is unsuccessful, I'll try a tube before moving on. IMO, a tube lies somewhere between a search bait and a finesse presentation.

I've been seeing more and more posts recommending this and other soft plastics when first approaching a spot. The most recent was about fishing a stump field. I wouldn't consider a drop-shot or Ned rig until I find fish. An exception might be dock fishing, but only if I've successfully caught a fish or two on a different presentation. I think it's great that many anglers have confidence in using these type baits, but unless the fish have been located first, I see using them in that way (to locate fish) a waste of valuable fishing time. Great presentations when you're on fish, but time consuming when you're not. I love fishing tubes, but I don't break them out if I don't know there are fish present, even if the structure and cover tell me there is a high percentage probability there are fish there. I may throw them before leaving a promising area, but only after I've tried other presentations. I know these finesse rigs catch fish and numbers, especially under tough conditions, as I've had success with them. I also know they will catch fish when others don't. Is my thought process flawed?

I'd approach it just the opposite of what others would do. I'd use the lipless to locate active fish, then switch to a jig or a T-rig to fish the area. You can cover much more water in less time this way. Cut off the down turned belly hook from the treble and carry a good lure retriever. I carry an extending pole type retriever and once you get the hang of using it, you can get unstuck and back to fishing in a couple of minutes. Even the knocker style will save you from loosing lures.

The drop itself, IMO, without irregularities isn't worth wasting time on. The structure itself may attract fish, but without cover, either on top, or at the base, there is nothing to keep them there. The one exception would be baitfish suspended off the drop. You didn't mention how deep the shallow side of the drop is and you wrote that there is hard bottom that goes out to 15ft., but is that hard bottom on the shallow side, the drop itself, or at the base? If there is any cover on the shallow side, the drop offers deep water access which is always a plus. The fish themselves may suspend out from the edge of the drop, but suspended fish are tough to catch. If you do find them suspended, come back to the area two or three times during the day. If you can't find them suspending, they've moved, but they haven't moved far, and likely their mood has changed from inactive to neutral or active. All this is relative to the post spawn/summer season.

Valid points by all. My OP was a generality and I was inquiring as to whether it was what others experience. Although a jig, drop shot and other presentations are brought back horizontally, they are chosen as a vertical presentation. Where as a spinnerbait, lipless crank, swimbaits, etc.,although they do initially fall vertically, are examples of horizontal presentations.

No problem, he uses quality equipment and learned how to feel bites years ago. The ‘problem’ is that he relies solely on feel and is missing those more subtle bites that are better detected by line watching.

I began using hi-viz braid when teaching my grandson how to fish a Texas rig it was much easier for him to detect bites than just relying on feel which is how his dad taught him to fish night crawlers. Around that same time my eyesight started giving me issues. I started using the combo I’d set up for the grandson. I haven’t looked back and I currently have hi-viz on all the combos I use for jigs and soft plastics, If you’re at that age when line watching becomes a chore, or you’re trying to gain confidence using a jig or plastic worm, try switching over to hi-viz braid with a short, fluoro leader. Your catch rate and your confidence will increase

I'm curious as to when you use one rather than the other. What I've found is that during tough conditions, When fish are in a neutral or negative mood, a vertical presentation produces more bites, While it (vertical presentation) may very well produce when fish are active, a horizontal presentation produces more bites. The only horizontal presentation I've found that works under tough conditions is dragging a jig, tube, or worm along the bottom and this includes a C-rig, but is that a horizontal presentation?

I'm looking for a 5in.-6in. solid, soft plastic swimbait. Specifically one with a tail that activates with the slightest movement of the bait. The two that I've been using need a faster fall rate to activate the tail, unlike the hollow body ones. I had found a place on TableRock that makes some, but they don't offer anything that size. Recommendations please. I love my hollow bodies, but they're pricey.

Three baits I use that always seem to attract bigger fish Buzzbait Paddletail swimbait 6in. on an underspin 1/2 oz. Siebert arkie jig/ rage tail craw I always have the jig tied on and I’d estimate it’s in the water over half the time I’m on the water.

I started using circle hooks when instructing the neighborhood kids and never again delt with gut hooked fish again. That was 15 years ago. They’re the only style I use https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/owner-mutu-light-circle-hooks

Funny, because that's one of the reason I choose it for use with 8lb. test fluorocarbon. Then again, I'm not pitching it into heavy cover, mostly hard bottom structure and grass. With a decent size trailer, it'll sit on top of denser vegetation and, like a lipless crank, will trigger a reaction strike when ripped upward. For heavier cover, I go with a heavier jig and shorten the skirt and trailer for a more compact profile.

StrikeKIng Bitsy Bug https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/strike-king-bitsy-bug-mini-jig?searchTerm=bitsy bug I add rattles to it for stained water. Zoom Pro Chunk https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/zoom-salty-pro-chunk or a Strike King Space Monkey https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/strike-king-rage-tail-space-monkey-soft-baits When an action trailer is called for.

I knew they offered Colorado blades in gold and nickel, but I didn't know they are deep cupped. I'll have to do a search for some, because I love their blade and shaft combo

If you like willow blades, this and a Terminator. For one with Colorado blades, the Hart Throb gives off a ton of vibration even though it's blade is more like a turtleback.

I found a local guy that custom paints lures and have had him do a few of my favorites and a bunch of different sized Spooks. They're so pretty when I get them back from him that they just sit in my tackle box for me to admire when I'm reaching for one of their factory painted cousins. It's not that I worry about loosing them, I just would hate to scratch up the paint job. I did break out a custom craw colored Little John last week, but cut it off the first time I bounced it off the rip rap I was targeting. Luckily just the bill was scratched.

Water temp in that range, being the only factor you consider, tells you nothing. Has the temp. been slowly and steadily rising, or dropping? How deep is the average depth of the area you’ll be targeting? Is the surface layer of water significantly warmer? Historically, what are normal temps for this time of year? Not to mention, What are your electronics telling you? Focus on water temp. and its importance in spring fish migration has been a subject pounded to death by both the pros and media. Some of that info is dead on, but a lot of it is much too general to be of any benefit.

This is only one strategy, but YES. You either know from watching your DF that the cover is holding bass, or you assume that it is. In some instances the fish may be away from the cover, but if you've identified 'fishy' cover you should fish it at that depth. I think he meant to say if you're fishing wood and not getting hung up, you're likely leaving fish behind. I fish some nasty cover and this is my motto, but loosing baits isn't. If I get hung up, snagged, or whatever you want to call it, I'm going to get it back, sharpen the hook and retie. Then I'll move on.

Simple answer....NO. I recommend doing just the opposite and going with power fishing presentations. The first reason is because that (finesse fishing) is the mentality for fishing pressured lakes and the majority of anglers will be doing this. The second reason is because, if the fish are active, you can cash in on the fact before others do. Lastly, if you treat high pressure bodies of water the same as you do cold front conditions (presenting offerings as close to cover as possible, or fishing deep structure with a bottom presentation, you'll be able to cover more water and up your odds. If that strategy doesn't work, downsize your offerings and slow down. Bump hard cover and pause for..........that long or longer. Find the nastiest cover closer to deeper water and start flipping/ pitching a jig and trailer into the thickest stuff there is. Lastly, resort to finesse tactics. This go big, or go home empty handed is at best a 50/50 thing, but if you're eliminating 50% of the competition, you're on your way to finishing in the money more often.

If it's a big body of water with numerous tributaries, I'll look for pre spawners before fishing the beds. If it's a big, natural lake I'll do the same. On smaller lakes, I've found that the majority of fish will spawn on the same moon phase and searching out that 10%-15% of fish that aren't is tougher than fishing for the ones on beds. I normally avoid fishing those lakes at that time of year.

Which are you asking about, tournament fishing this lake, or pre-fishing it during the week? The best strategy,IMO, for fishing a one day tournament is to get your limit as soon as possible and then to target better quality fish. Finesse fishing, although it may be slow is, likely, the best approach to this way of thinking. The downside to this strategy is you shouldn't use finesse tactics until you've located fish. Very few would be considered search baits. This is where pre-fishing gives you an advantage. You can slow down and pick apart different structures and cover and return on tournament day and search for those fish using the current conditions as a guide to locating them. I'm guessing you're referring to club tourneys as most sanctioned events don't allow pre-fishing, within a certain time frame, before the event.