papajoe222

Great bait year round when conditions call for cranking. Until I started using Bandit cranks, I even used them in wood cover. Those I couldn't unsnag didn't cost a bunch to replace. Early spring I normally opt for blade baits or lipless cranks for their tighter wiggle and the blade baits don't have rattles, but from the spawn until ice-up, those two brands get the nod from me.

My home lake is similar to the one you described Senkosam. It went from being weed choked last spring because of a mild winter, to totally weed free from mid-June until late august. There is really no 'deep' water or structure changes and the shoreline cover is limited to felled trees and chunk rock lining the shore. Bottom transitions are a big key as are gradual depth changes. When the weeds are up, these areas are easier to find, so under those conditions, IMO, this type of lake is easier. On the other hand, deep impoundments like Table Rock can produce good numbers once the fish are located, but because of the many different structures and the depth you find them in, location becomes a difficult and often time comsuming task. If your strength is fishing Senko type baits, your local lake is the type you should target. If it were cranking, the opposite would be true. It's like comparing fruit to vegetables. I'll target the shallower waters with fish scattered vs. the deeper ones where fish tend to concentrate and school because I know the chances of getting skunked are less on those waters.

I only had one rod with micro guides and my dislike of them had nothing to do with their looks, but of their durability. On my third outing, the insert on the tip came off. I was fishing a Carolina rig and didn't notice the small insert wasn't there. My first cast after, I knew something was wrong, but couldn't figure out what it was. When my line snapped of a subsequent cast, I figured it out. If I could find a replacement tip, I'd probably continue using the rod, but I'm sure I'll never purchase another.

I've used the BPS version with moderate success. I like to rig it wacky style with a plastic zip tie. They're great for distance casting and that's a concern for me as gin clear water is the norm on a couple of smaller lakes that I fish. I loose a little of the edge in using them because of the size, but the action is still there and I'm confident in putting them in front of finicky fish. On the one lake I fish it was the only presentation I was able to get bites on and although I only boated three fish on my last outing there, they were all quality (18in.+) fish. Definately not my first choice, but sometimes you gotta go with what works.

You'll find that if you spend the extra cash for a 'nicer' rod, you'll be more carefull with it. That is, of course, if it's your money that you're using. The same goes for a reel. The more you spend, the more care you'll take of it when not in use.

I am so right hand dominate that, although I grew up fishing spinning gear and reeling with my left hand, I'm unable to reel a baitcaster with my left hand. I end up cranking the rod and holding the handle whenever I try. something very similalr happens when I attempt to switch reeling a spinning reelwith my right hand. Did you ever see someone attempt to patt their head and rub their tummy at the same time?? I can only do it one way, If I try it the other way I end up rubbing my head and patting my stomach. There is a name for my condition, but saying it here is forbidden!

Raul and I agree on not matching the hatch although likely for different reasons. I choose baits based on what everyone else is using, and use something different. (The lakes I fish are small and get a lot of fishing pressure) Even if it's just a different size of the same bait in the same color although I rarely do that. I like extremes, big, small, wild colors, no color. It's a matter of personal prefference and that is what you need to decide for yourself. I like crappie sized AND big flat sided cranks in the spring. I haven't used the KVD series yet, but the 1.5 and 3.0 would likely be my choices.

The biggest difference in fishing morning/evening vs. mid day is fish location. Fish are more active at certain times and adjust their location accordingly. That location change could be as little as moving deeper or shallower, tighter to cover or structure, or as much as a migration from a shallow feeding flat, back to the deep water they call home when not feeding. Often during mid-day the fish aren't active. Where they go and how they position themselves in relation to that cover or structure is two fold. The difficult part is determining where they go. Wind direction, current, shade, light penetration etc. will dictate where they'll likely be on that cover or structure in most cases. There are fish that stay shallow or use shallow water as their home base all summer and many bassers target these fish as the first part of that equation is eliminated for the most part. They, those fish, don't move great distances. If you find them on a flat when they're feeding, they'll likely still be there during their off feed hours providing there haven't been any drastic weather changes. You know your lake fairly well, or well enough to catch fish during the low light, high activity periods. Take that information and fine tune it paying attention to the details and you'll find the fish. Then it's just a matter of getting them to commit to your offering and hoping that the wind, or sun or whatever doesn't change without you noticing it, because I guarantee the fish will.

Hey W.W. The first thing I notice in your pic was the marker bouy. Only one?? LOL I keep six on the boat and always have one on deck to throw out after hooking a fish on open water structure. Old school, old fart here.

Thanks guys. Although I prefer a slow rising bait early in the season, I'll retrieve them slower and use a graphite rod so I can feel the line rubbing against the timber. As I'm not looking to actually bump the wood in that situation, getting snagged isn't as much of a problem as during the summer when I'm burning them through the wood. Most often the bait will catch a branch where the lip meets the body and a slight pause on slack line will free it. I havent tried coffin billed baits for this. How do they compare to square bills when it comes to fishing timber?

When fishing as non boater in club tournaments, I'd carry my rods is a hard travel case and reels in a hard case designed for pistols. Both have foam linings and the equipment stayed stationary during transit. I'd unpack the rods before blast off and kept the reels in the case until we got to where we'd be fishing. I lost a little fishing time, but avoided quite a bit of boat rash on those reels. I guess a soft case could work just as well, but I went with what I had at the time.

I just picked up a few of the KVD silent baits and was wondering about their bouyancy. I fish a lot of downed timber and brush piles and like a bait that rises quickly when paused and was wondering if these or the 1.5 would fit the bill.

I've used some saltwater baits fishing for muskie and ended up catching some nice largemouth. Since then, I've added a couple to my bass tackle. The most productive has been the saltwater version of the ChugBug. Switched out the hooks including adding a feathered treble on the tail. The others are soft plastics that were poured in bass colors after making a mold of the saltwater version.

I start out cleaning and relubing all my reels. This year that included adding carbon fiber drag washers to three of them after polishing the washers and gear. Then it's the rods. Check all guides, clean and seal cork grips, and mark application on similar rods. On to baits starting with spinnerbaits. I'll check hooks for sharpness, replace skirts, polish or replace blades. Next is hard baits. After organizing and marking boxes as to content I'll start with top-waters replacing hooks and split rings where necessary and sharpening hooks on hollow body frogs and spoons. I'll do the same with cranks and when done, I'll replace any baits that were lost or are no longer worth the time and effort to get into fishing condition. Plastics are next, mostly just organizing and replenishing. The same goes for hooks, weights, terminal tackle, blades, skirts, etc. This whole process takes me about five weeks. At this point, I start driving the wife nuts as I'm already finished and other than getting the boat and trailer ready. Seeing as I've completed all but the boat and trailer and opening day at the power plant lakes is over four weeks away, it's time to start antagonizing the cat and momma so I have no problem getting out for at least the first couple of week-ends before either one figures out my strategy.

I know Joe will be happy to pass everything along to the guys. On their behalf, let me be the first to thank you. BTW hooligan, you know you're going to go out and buy more stuff and so am I. It feels good to do this and also gives us an excuse to go out and get more stuff

Decide what you'll be using it the most for. That will help you decide. Do you fish salt water extensively? Is line recovery,IPT an important factor? What about weight? Senkos or hard baits? Also, look into purchasing used equipment. Your dollar will go further and you may be able to afford a good used combo for what you have to spend. Some shops will have last year's models well into the following season. I picked up my Sol from a guy that had two of them on his shelf for longer than he cared and got a great deal on it.

Jig

I've used Kalin's on everything from Slider jigs to Umbrella rigs. I even tried the PowerBait in this style T-rigged with no weight and fished it like a swimbait. Like plastic worms, they just keep producing, so I just keep using 'em.

Thanks, I have the gut hooking occur more with long leaders on rigs that I float above the vegetation. I think it's more because of that long length of mono than my main line, but I'll give that a try too.

After watching a fishing show last spring, I did a little research into the subject of that show. The Maj. Steven Andrews Fishing Outreach Program was founded by his lifelong friend and fishing buddy. The former Marine and pro fisherman started introducing vets to this great sport and has been for over four years now. After an outing, he supplies gear to them in hopes that they will continue to enjoy fishing. Although, as a tourney fisherman, he has product sponsors that supply rods, reels and tackle boxes, he has difficulty stocking the tackle boxes. I came up with over a dozen new lures, hooks, bobbers etc. that I'll never miss and shipped them off to him. That was last June. Well, after organizing my gear recently I came across packages of hooks and sinkers I'd picked up on clearance and decided to send him another package. If you guys have excess gear, old or new you may consider sending some of it off to him.It's a great way to say Thank You to our vets and feel good about yourself at the same time. You can google the program and find contact information there. Thanks for taking the time to read.

I've been considering using them on my c-rigs as I tend to shy away from rigging that way due to gut hooking fish. I use a tube c-rigged about 50% of the time and nose hooking them or a fluke would seem like a good option, especially over gravel or shell beds. Anyone every try this and if so could you share your opinion, positive or negative? I'd really like to keep this as an alternative to Texas rigging all the time for obvious reasons.

If you don't want to take the reel completely apart, you could open the side plate and spray clean the gear with brake parts cleaner or Electro-clean and regrease. After closing check for the noise. If it's gone, tear the reel apart for a good cleaning and relube. If it's still there, It may be something as simple as a loose screw holding the pinion gear retainer plate or, worse case scenario, broken teeth on either gear. Does the anti-reverse work okay? More than likely, old grease is preventing a good mesh of the gears. If the reel has never been cleaned, that may be all it needs.

I've been using scent on both hard and soft baits for at least 10 years. Started out using anise oil based product, I can't even remember the name, on my plastics and graduated to adding it to hard baits when the wife was kicking my butt on cranks with it. Tried a number of them since and have settled on CB's Hawg Sauce. I use the water based in cold water as it is released easier than oil based attractants. I think it's a confidence mind set more than anything, although I do believe a fish will hold on to a crank a fraction of a second longer.

Another vote for the Sol, but they are getting harder to find. Beware if you're looking to pick up a used one of fleabay. The one I purchased recently needed extensive work to get it into decent shape. As stated in a previous post, the Prolite reels from BPS are decent if you give one a good cleaning and light lube. Another alternative from BPS is their Wally Marshall baitcaster. What is going to make or break you when attempting to cast light baits with any baitcaster is the rod. You'll need one that will load up using those light baits and still not be wimpy when it comes to fighting the fish.

I'm of a different mindset when it comes to jigs in the spring, especially during the pre-spawn. Although I do fish jigs, the ones I use most often aren't traditional bass jigs. I'll take a bare jig like a stand up or football and dress it with a plastic bait. Often that's a reaper or paddle tail grub on a stand up, or a spider grub or single tailed grub like a Kalins. As for colors, I stick to white or Holo-Clear or smoke/black pepper or just good ole black. The other style of jig I'll use is a Fuzz-E-Grub in white with either a red or pink head. I pick jigs with light wire hooks and fish them on spinning gear with 8lb test original Stren. Once the fish move up and start checking out spawning sites, I'll switch to traditional swimming or arkie head jigs depending on cover or lack of it, but if a cold front moves in and drives them deep, I'm back to these combinations.