papajoe222

This crank is very similar to their FatFree Shad which isn't produced in a silent version. The SwitchBack has a different action and is a little less bouyant, but I will still break one out when I'm looking to 'Run Silent, Run Deep' (That's for you old movie buffs)

I tend to base jig weight on the depth of water I'm fishing and in anything over 10ft. it's a 1/4 or heavier even with a short thin worm. I'm not concerned with a slow fall rate, but it's ability to stay on the bottom in one place while being shook and my ability to feel it being inhaled by Ms. finicky.

There are a number of excellent baits that will cover the depth range you're targeting. My preference is a Norman DD22, Luhr Jensen 'Hot Lips', or a Rapal DT series. Of the three, I throw the DD22 more often than not as it doesn't seem to hang up as often as the Rapala and is easier on the forearm and wrist than the Hot Lips. The thing to remember about deep cranking is that this isn't a tactic to use when trying to locate fish as it'll tire you out. Not to say they aren't what I would classify as a search bait, quite the opposite. Just as when fishing shallow cover, you need to choose spots with either a history or a good potential of producing fish. If you're not graphing baitfish in the area or actual fish, the spot had better be a proven one. I'll target breaklines and transition areas when searching out a new spot and if I can find forage or irregularities on the structure, I run over that spot from different angles until I'm confident it either holds fish or has excellent potential. If you're targeting suspended fish, be sure to use a bait like the DT's or Suspending Fat Free Shad from Bomber that will stay down or rise slowly when paused as just cranking through suspended fish rarely draws a response. Keep at it. Once you gain confidence in this technique, you can boat multiple fish from a spot in short order. Good luck.

As long as there is a food source in the vacinity, they can be both shallow and deep at the same time. That food source could very well be different in each area. Shallow fish may be relating to smaller sunfish, or other forage that stays shallow the majority of the time. Deep fish may be relating to schools of baitfish, or holding along a migration route that they use to the shallows to feed and then return to their deeper haunts. The biggest difference to me is the fact that deep fish tend to bunch up whereas shallow holding fish are normally scattered. This is the reason you see most anglers that fish shallow constantly moving while anglers targeting deep fish tend to concentrate on one area. If you have the resources to check out both the shallows and the deeper structure, you have a much better chance of being successful vs. an angler that either lacks those resources or locks themself into one area or the other.

Although a piece of grass will alter the action, you can still catch fish. If you're concerned, give the rod another pop the same as you would when ripping it free from the weeds. Often times that will clear the hooks. With a high floating, lipped crank, a pause will sometimes clear the lip, but that doesn't work will all weed types. In answer to your second question, your equipment makes the difference and to a certain extent, the type of weeds. A soft action rod and/or stretchy mono are NOT what you want to be using. A M/H cranking stick and braid or heavy mono or fluoro are the ticket. The crank you're using should have a tight wiggle so the hooks stay close to it's body and won't catch the grass as easily as a wide wobbling lure will. A couple of other things to remember are to stop reeling before you attempt ripping it free. You're not setting the hook. That extra half turn of the reel handle will just burry your crank deeper into the weeds. The other is to develop a good feel for the bait you're using, this is why I prefer a graphite rod over glass for most of my cranking. If you can't feel the bait as it starts to catch the grass, you'll end up burrying it into the grass more. This is an awesome way to trigger fish holding in the weeds.

Sound like they may have been abused, either by store personnel or yourself. I've seen the way some clerks handle equipment at some of the bigger outlets, so that's likely where the initial damage occured. On the off chance that you could be the culprit, remember that graphite is a brittle substance and banging rod tips into anything, even each other, can cause unseen damage that could result in breakage later on. Inexpensive rod socks are great insurance for rods not in use. Another thing you should avoid is leaving your rod rigged with tension on the tip of the rod. I've seen guys at the launch load rods with as much bend in the tip section it made me cringe. My money is on the store clerk

These are my two, all time, favorites when it comes to topwater fishing. Unlike yourself, however, I use them under different conditions and for different reasons. I view a buzzer as more of a search/reaction bait. It's great for covering water quickly in search of (big) active fish and although it can and does call fish up from underlying structure, it shines more when target fishing cover. As for conditions, I look for conditions when fish are more active. Overcast, breezy, stable weather. With multiple casts to the same target, you can entice a fish to hit one under tough conditions, but a Spook is a much better tool under those conditions. I prefer a Spook when I'm confident of fish location either after I've developed a pattern, or in areas known for holding fish. I'll also use one as a follow up to a missed strike on a buzzer. It can be used for targeting specific cover or for calling fish up that are either suspending or holding on underwater structure. It's great for active fish and like a buzzer you'll get some explosive strikes, but it shines under tough conditions when the fish are not in a chasing mood. The advantage then is that you can work it extremely slow and stop it any time during the retrieve. This is where many anglers miss out when fishing one. Making a comotion on top (working it fast) is the way most guys retrieve it, but they miss out when the bite is tough and this bait really shines under those conditions. About the only condition that I won't throw one is when it's windy ( I'll go to a bigger bait unless I can't controll it because of the wind), or when I'm searching for a kicker fish.

The original BaitMate (Gamefish) uses anise oil as does the newer version gel with the glitter in it. I haven't seen it on the shelves this year, so I'm not sure if it's still in distribution. My wife has been hoarding the last bottle we have. I have other attractants she won't use as long as there's a drop left in that bottle.

Two things I do when this happens to me, before switching out baits. First is to pause the bait more often or for a longer time. Definately give a longer pause when fishing water that's 20ft.+ as a fish can only make so many adjustments when it's coming up quickly to inhale your offering. Second is to slow down my presentation. I see too many guys working a top water bait fairly fast and that's the only way they work it. I'll be trailering my boat and get the 'What'd you catch 'em on/' When I tell them a Spook, they look at me like 'that can't be because I tried them. The other thing with smallies that I do is go with a bright frog or firetiger pattern. For some reason they really key on 'em.

You'll love the availability of the added thrust of a 24volt motor. I upgraded to a MotorGuide digital Tour for my Tracker and love it. Check with your Tracker dealer before running new wiring. My boat actually came with heavier guage wiring. Definately go with a three bank charger and stay away from BPS models. I've heard nothing but good about the MinnKotas. Be sure to add an in-line circuit breaker 40 or 50amp depending on the motor you choose.

Welcome to the board. I, too have had cats hit all types of artificials, even top water.

A JellyWorm has no salt, so it doesn't sink. On the other hand it isn't exactly a floating worm either, but it will stand up on the jig head fairly well and more so than some.

Be sure you're shaking on totaly slack line. Any tension what so ever will tip most of them.

I echo the braid mainline and mono leader approach. as B@ss Crazy said, you don't loose much, if any sensitivity over that the short length. I prefer Stren Big Game or High impact as they are larger diameter lines. Don't forget guys, the longer the leader you're using, the longer your rod sweep needs to be on the hookset. I learned that lesson the hard way...lost fish.

Got out late this morning and was having fairly good success with a tail spinner made by Cordell. I ended up loosing it and a nice bass. It happened to be the only one I owned and I don't recall the name and haven't been able to locate another. Unlike the majority of this type of bait that are thin and pencil like, this one is short and fat. I don't recall if I added the feathered treble to the back or if it came that way. Anyone know what they call that bait and/or where I can find one? Thanks in advance guys.

My set-up includes baitcasting gear, but a spinning rod with a M/H power and fast tip could suit you. I like braid with a leader of 18in. or so. Don't overlook Manns Jelly Worm in the bigger size. They have a small diameter that not only makes for better hook-ups, but their action is better than some of the fatter, big worms.

X2. These and Blue Fox Vibrax have taken plenty of quality bass while pike fishing.

Yep.

X2, including the welcome. A great tactic for targeting the tops of the weeds for active fish is a floating worm.with just enough weight to get it down to the weed tops. Pop it will your rod tip when it stops sinking (it'll lay on top the weeds) and let is settle back down. That's also a great way to locate any pockets as it will take longer for that worm to settle.

You didn't give us much information about the lake, but assuming it's in your neck of the woods, I'll assume its a natural lake. Mid june would put the bass somewhere between late spawn and post spawn, even venturing to summer haunts. If a map of the lake is available, look for possible spawning areas and concentrate your efforts near them. If it's a shallower body of water, your search will be easier as most of the post spawn areas will be the same one used for deep,summer fish and the spawning areas will become feeding flats for both fish that call deep water and the shallows their home. Until all the fish have transitioned to summer mode, you'll want to cover water until you contact active fish and a crankbait and spinnerbait (or swim jig) are just the ticket. The weeds should be up and a well defined weedline is a good indicator of either a bottom transition area or a drop to deeper water. Either way, an inside our outside weedline is a prime area. Natural lakes don't have an abundance of points that are extensions from shore, but the weedline has plenty. if you can locate a section of it with multiple points and pockets, slow down and grab a jig or worm and work both starting with the points. Same goes for your approach after contacting fish along a stretch of weeds. The other area I'd concentrate on would be any major break close to either that spawning area or the shoreline. Weeds or not, that will be the 'road most traveled' and an approach that covers the entire water column will not only get you in contact with fish, it will tell you whether they are active, indifferent, or inactive. Use your faster moving baits shallow and deep and slower presentation in the mid water areas for any inactive fish. If I'm off base about your targeting a natural lake, I'm sure there are guys that can help you out.

Current breaks are key to river fishing. I'm not familiar with the Snake, but man made jettys and the like are key areas where there is a larger interuption of the current vs. say a big boulder and they extend out from the shore for an easy shorebound approach. Another key spot is what's called a 'seam'. This is where faster water runs alongside slower or calm water. Active fish will hold in the slower current and dart out into the faster water to strike. A 'push' upstream of shallower rapids and the 'draw/ just below them create a similar situation with faster water alongside slower moving water.

For explosive strikes, and more misses than I care to mention, I like a clear Spook on sunny days or in clear water situations. There's something about that comotion and not being able to see what's causing it that seems to draw those kind of strikes. I'll normally follow up the misses with either a bone colored Spook or a super Fluke. That same bone color gets the nod on overcast days and sun-up and sun-down. I've also had good luck with the G-finish and black spooks, but for smallies I prefer something with chartruse or a firetiger pattern. If you're only getting one, go with bone with a red head. It was one of the first colors they came in and it still produces day,night,sunny or cloudy.

I use the same general rule with topwaters, but on lures I don't have in smaller versions, I'll go to more natural colors. The exception, for me, is when I'm targeting smallies holding deep. Then I'll go with brighter colors in the larger size. If you've just started building your topwater selection, I'd start out with the mid-sized stuff. You may get bit less under tough conditions, but you'll still have enough bulk to your presentation to attract fish under low light or stained water conditions.

Guess I'm lucky when it comes to breaking rods. On the other hand, if sticking myself with hooks was a side event during a tournament, I'd place in the top ten everytime. Wearring eye protection is mandatory for anyone aboard my boat. I am glad to hear that you're taking it all in stride, I mean at least you didn't sink your boat, or your buddies. Not that would be cause for beating yourself up.

If you'll be fishing a natural lake, things will have settled down to what would be normal. If the lake has risen substantially, you can target areas of newly flooded brush or the tops of previously emergent vegetation. If it's an impoundment, the combination of inflowing water and possibly open gates at the dam will create increased current. The first point downcurrent from any incoming stream can be dynamite under those conditions, especially if the water isn't muddy. The fish can stack up at that current break and feast on whatever is being washed down to them. I'd start out with a fat bodied crank with good rattles or a spinnerbait with either an Indiana or Colorado blade. Don't forget to give a jig a shot before giving up on any spot with potential. You can often pick up some big, less active fish with it.