papajoe222

Quality sunglasses can be had for a lot less than $100. I got my Oakley Half Jackets polarized lenzes for $40 and the WileyX pair I wear mostly for driving for just under that. I had to do a little searching, but the search and the glasses are well worth it just for the eye protection. If you ever have a bullet weight or jig come flying back at you, you'll be thankful you went with quality eyeware. The polarization is a plus and when you consider you can have both in a quality pair your outlook (pun intended) on eyewear becomes focused. (sorry, I couldn't help it)

How did I know you'd mention these Ole Monsters are another that I use along with a 12in. Mann's Jelly Worm which is dynamite when worked extremely slow on a split shot rig. Thanks for all the responses, I did see some baits I haven't tried and one excellent post about using smaller baits too.

Thanks for the reminder Catt. When I locate a potential big fish spot, I rarely downsize if the spot doesn't produce.

Yea, it does, especially when it seems that's all I've been throwing the last couple of weeks. There are two trains of thought when it comes to when to set the hook and both are right, but not in every situation. There will be times when you don't feel any weight and times when your line won't move or any other visual clue. When in doubt, set the hook. That is where most fish end up getting off. We either set too soon, or too late. Yea, you're going to loose fish that didn't have your frog, just clamped down on the legs or whatever. There's nothing you can do about loosing those fish, you never really had them. You can tell when you're using a good hook setting technique, the fish will be hooked in the top of their mouth, back from their lips. If the fish you do land aren't hooked there, it's time to take a good look at your hook setting abilities.

Welcome to the board and I compliment you on spending some time reading before asking when you or someone else might consider 'a little too new.' Basically there are two main factors to consider when choosing a color; the fish's ability to see your lure (water color and light penetration), and the natural color and shape of their prefered forage. Think of it this way. A shad doesn't have the ability to change it's color, so if you're targeting bass strictly by appealing to their sight, they aren't going to be able to see a shad colored bait in muddy water. This is one example of color or contrast being important. Shape is also important under low light, muddy water conditions, but often times a fish will search out forage that is easier to find than what they prefer. This is why color becomes more important than what you're attempting to imitate under those conditions.

Sounds like one of the many strip pits around here. The first ten or fifteen feet off the bank is shallow and you can catch some dinks there, but the the water's depth drops quickly to 30ft. or more. Sometimes there is a second ledge that will extend a short distance further out before that big plunge. Before I mention the methods I use on strip pits, I'll answer your question about fishing deep water with a Texas rig. I always move a bottom presentation with my rod and not my reel. You can maintain bottom contact so much easier and at the first indication of a bite, drop the rod tip so the fish can take the bait without the weight. Speaking of weight, you'll need to go heavier if you want to maintain contact in that deep water. As for what type of worm to use, that is a personal prefference. If I'm moving the bait quickly, I prefer an action tail. If I'm crawling it along I prefer a straight tail, but that's me. Now a quick word about my experiences with strip pit bassin' Unless they are actively feeding, they are most likely suspending just off one of those drop offs I mentioned. Paralleling the drops with a crank that runs just above the depth of the drop with a crank or jerkbait is a killer. If they are actively feeding, get that bait up on the shelf just off shore as that's where the majority of forage spends their time.

This is a topic I am constantly drumming into the heads of the kids I introduce to bass fishing. I liken it to finding their favorite food at a supermarket. "If it's PopTarts, you wouldn't look in the frozen foods or dairy isle." Although to us this isn't an accurate analogy, it seems to hit home with the little tikes. I guess a better one would have to do with hunting. The bottom line is that you can luck into a fish or two without knowing anything about them, but if you want to continually catch them, you'd better not be relying on luck. This is why questions like; I'm going fishing at my local pond tomorrow, what lure should I be using? receive few enlightening answers on forums like this. There is no information for anyone to apply their knowledge of LMB. Not that the forum members are reluctant to give advice, they can't honestly recommend a lure to fish the unknown. Another teaching insight I attempt to impart is that no pro athlete started out with the skill he or she currently posesses. They were born with a natural ability, but it was nurtured through learning and practice. Learn as much as you can about the fish and when you think you know what makes them tick, start studying what they eat, then............

The weight of the plastic only matters when casting. The heavier the bait, the heavier the combination. What I pay attention to is whether or not the plastic floats. One that does will stand up better and most importantly compliment the presentation. A bait with salt in it will work if you are moving the bait a lot. A floating bait works best when the jig is stationary and shaken in place. That is the main reason I don't use baits with built in action. That action requires moving the bait.

I've been using hollow body swim baits anywhere from 3" to 8" BassTrix and Money Minnows mostly. I fish the 8" for musky and have landed a couple of bass over 20in. when doing so. The only time I use hard body swimbaits is for musky fishing, so I can't help you there.

The last few seasons I've been targeting big fish when I'm out by myself and I was wondering what lures you use when doing so? Big fish around here translates to 5lb.+ and I've been using a variety of baits. 1/2oz. jig w/CrawPapi or RageTail Lobster, 5&8in. swimbaits, 10in.+ ribbon and paddle tail worms. and salt water Spooks and Jitterbugs along with some Northland Tackle spinnerbaits. I know it takes more than big baits to catch big fish, I'm just looking to add a little more variety to my choices. No need to mention colors.

Will you be using spinning or casting gear? Unless you have some stout spinning gear, I wouldn't recommend a full size Spook. I'd go with the Jr or Puppy. The original is a 3/4oz version the SuperSpook Jr is 1/2oz and the Puppy is 1/4oz. BTW, for beginners, I highly recommend adding a split ring to the line tie as it makes learning to 'walk the dog' a lot easier.

My first question is; Have you had success catching big fish on the big water before? If not, your success on the ponds and not on the 'high pressured waters' could be explained by the fact that you can cover more productive water with your presentations than you do on the bigger body of water. Fishing pressure does affect catchability, but that does not mean the fish aren't catchable. Your presentations or bait selections may need to be more precise, the fish may have a smaller strike zone or be more line shy than on one of the ponds you frequent. Don't give up. Keep a positive outlook and eliminate possible negative influences on your fishing starting with a negative attitude.

For numbers in a variety of situations, I like a 4 or 5in. worm. For big bass it's one of two things, a buzzbait or a big worm.

There are a variety of jig heads produced for tubes and this rigging will give you the most action on the fall. Two things to remember. The first is the fact that when rigged the standard way, the tube is not weedless as the hook is exposed and second, pick a jig head that keeps the hooks bend no longer than the bait's body. Jig weight should be determined by what fall rate you are trying to achieve. For maximum action, a lighter weight around 1/8oz. and for a quick drop 1/4 or more. For a weedless presentation, weedless versions are available. Another option is what's called stupid rigging. A quick search will get you the info. Tubes are a great alternative to standard finess presentations as they offer a bigger or bulkier profile to most of those.

If I'm fishing timber, I trim the weed guard at an angle. That stiffens the fibers and I rarely hang the jig on a limb. If I miss a fish, it's due to loss of concentration not the weed guard. If I'm swimming a jig through or around weed cover, I leave the weed guard length and maybe fan it out a little. If I know ahead of time that I'll be fishing a variety of cover, I'll leave it alone unless it's excessively long to begin with.

You're asking three questions. I'll address the first. How do you methodically work a piece of cover or structure? It depends on the bait. With some baits you can not cover something completely, but enough to develop a pattern if you are consistantly catching fish. With others you can. Once you decide how you plan to attack that cover or structure you continue that approach until you've covered it completely. Let's say it's a laydown and you decide to methodically work it from the outside in with a tube. Starting at the outermost visible parts and working your way in toward the trunk on one side and repeating that process on the other side, you have worked that piece of cover methodically. Now, if you catch a fish, say on the on the outermost part of it that happens to be on the shady side and at the next laydown you catch another fish on the shady end, you have the makings of a pattern.

When you ask if a day of clear skies will get things back to normal, you have to ask yourself what is normal? If it's clear skies and high off colored water then, maybe. You can't take just one condition and attempt to derive a justifyable answer. Take as many variables as you can into consideration whenever you go out and don't presume that any one of them is more important than the others. Sorry it sounds like I'm preaching a little, I'm really not. I just want you and others that are trying to learn more, to look at the whole picture and not make assumptions with little to back them up.

My area has been experiencing the same weather related problems yours has. The bottom line is the weather has been very unstable. From overcast to sunny to rain to bluebird skies all in one day. Pick a day, any day in the past week or so. The fish don't know what to do and it's like turning a light switch on and off every couple of hours when it comes to catching. Do you want me to tell you where they should be after all the rain we've gotten. Shallow, in the newly flooded brush and grass. Now I'll tell you where they aren't. Shallow, in the newly flooded brush and grass. Where they are is the same place you'll find them during the early stages of a cold front. The short periods of low or falling pressure is when they're feeding and when you're likely to catch them. Other than that, they're sitting on their recliners, covered with a blanket over their heads and eating is the last thing on their mind. So either knock them on the head until they come out from under the blanket, or find your own recliner and think about something other than fishing.

I tend to set my drag looser for treble hook hard baits and when I fish with braided line. If I'm fishing a single hook presentation (spinnerbait, jig, worm) with mono, I set it just tight enough so the drag gives under a hard steady pull. There is enough stretch to mono and flouro, that when you combine it with the flex of the rod, break offs aren't as much of a concern as a successful hook set.

Rocky hump or submerged island or the same structure with grass. If there aren't any, give me a rip-rap shoreline.

Just an update here guys. After this week-end, I'm tied for first place with two other anglers close behind us. The remainder of the tournaments, two next month and one in Aug. are two day events. These are the ones I dread as I can handle one day's worth of aches and pains. The second day is the killer and I'm often forced to go to slow or dead sticking presentations to get through the day. Hopefully I can get a good lead the first day and somewhat coast on the second. I'm not concerned with winning any of them, I'd just like to stay in the running until the last one.

I, too, am a recent convert to the RageTail line. The action alone would have been enough to convert me, but the texture of the plastic and the added scent made it a decision I couldn't refuse. Summer and Bama craw work extreme in the slightly stained water up here and I've also done well with Black and blue at night.

Welcome to the forum. Glad to have you. I live just outside Chicago and I can relate to your frustration. The situation we've been dealing with is very unstable weather. More importantly, fluctuating barometric pressure. Normally, falling or rising pressure activates the fish. Rising pressure has the least effect of the two especially if it's rising from over 30.0. However, when these two situations occur within hours of each other and are followed by a steady higher pressure, the fish tend to remain in a neutral to negative state. In simple terms, they don't feed. They are still catchable, I've caught some hawgs this past week. Just don't expect them to chase down your presentation. Smaller baits and slower presentations will get you some fish, but nowhere near as many as if it were an overcast day preceeded by steady conditions. If the water remains muddy, I suggest going with darker colors too. Most of my catches this past week have come on a black Culprit worm behind a 1/8oz. bullet weight.

The biggest problem I had was overcomming the transition from live bait to hard baits. Your situation sounds very similar. Sam makes avery good point about the fish's location in the water column. The point I'd like to make concerns the presentation of hard baits vs. that of soft plastics. That presentation revolves around both the fish's location AND their activity level. Many soft plastic presentations are slow, deliberate, accurate ones and those will catch both active and inactive fish. Hard baits are designed to be fished faster and as such appeal to active fish or as reaction baits eliciting strikes from neutral or inactive fish. If you're catching active fish with your soft plastics, it's a good indication you can switch to a faster, hard bait presentation and not only continue to catch, but likely increase their number as you can cover more water faster with them. You can tell the activity level of the fish you're catching by observing where and how you're getting bites. Inactive and neutral fish have a very small strike zone, so they won't move far to get to your soft plastic. Also your bites aren't as profound from neutral fish. Often you won't feel the bite, or it's very subtle. Deeper hooked fish, fish that come out of cover to bite, or fish that take the bait and run with it are indications of active fish. Build your confidence in hard baits on active fish and you'll be finding yourself finding ways to catch inactive fish on them.

I rarely use any type of light when fishing at night as it effects my night vision, which I'm thankful to say is still escellent. There is normally enough light from the moon and the shoreline. When I do use a light, it's a pen light I hold in my mouth and keep directed at whatever I need to see. The reason I don't like cap lights is because their light is directed straight out from the bill of your hat and not down where your eyes need the light for hooking plastics or un hooking fish. The majority of spots I fish and lures I use are the same as the ones I fish during the day. The only change I make is going to darker or contrasting colors. The only exception I make is fishing a big flat at night. I rarely approach an extended flat during daylight, but will check them out more than once over the course of a night outing. I keep a hand held spot light handy along with a light with a magnetic base for launching and loading and for warning approaching boats if I feel the need to. That along with always wearing a PFD and keeping clutter to a minimum are my main differences in saftey concerns over day fishing.