papajoe222

Before throwing an umbrella rig, check the regulations in Canada reguarding multiple baits. If there are submergent weeds, I'd rip a lipless crank over the tops or maybe burn a double willow spinnerbait over them. Don't forget the inside weed edge as that seems to be a good area for big, shallow fish on top water up north. A toad buzzed over that area and allowed to sink down to the weed tops and then down the outside weed edge can get you on a pattern quickly as you'll be covering the water column on one cast.

Thanks. Your statement about getting out and fishing before considering sun protection reminded me of ME. although I rarely burn, years and years of exposure to the sun have left my skin in anything but excellent condition. Thankfully no other 'problems', but that doesn't mean I'll continue to gamble that there won't be any in the future.

From me too and welcome

For years the only soft plastic bait I used was a worm. Then I started throwing skirted jigs with plastic trailers. Now, more often than not, I rely heavily on T-rigged beavers and craw plastics. I still use jigs and worms, but most of the guys on the local lakes rely heavily on them, so the beavers and craws are something the fish don't see as often.

Tragic news that hits home for many of us. Thoughts and prayers go out to the families of those young anglers. My first thought, without knowing any specifics, was that alcohol or drugs were a contributing factor. There are states that are pushing legislation for boating laws similar to those for driving under the influence and tragedies like this only fuel that fire. It will become painstakingly familiar to pushes for more gun control legislation after shooting incidents. It's a shame a few misguided or irresponsible individuals can taint our reputations as sportsmen and a tragedy that lives are lost in the process.

This particular jig may not be designed for grass, but there are a number from different companies that a re and they can be utilized in other areas as we'll.

A friend of mine, that sadly is no longer with us, once told me that flats with deep water access are gold mines as many different species will use it at one time or another and that makes it a prime feeding area. He would anchor on a flat, cast out a live bait setup, and then fan cast the entire area with a beetle spin. He rarely got skunked and most often would catch a mixed bag, so I took his advice. I don't anchor, but I will re-visit a productive flat multiple times during an outing and the one I mentioned will get plenty of my time along with the drop off there. The other lesson I learned from him is that deep summer bass will use the slow tapering area leading up to the flat as a staging area on their way to or from the flat and any isolated cover there can hold fish.

I was pre-fishing for an upcoming tournament and doing quite well considering I'd never been on this lake before. I was approached by two anglers at the launch that had seen me boat three nice bass off a weedless flat. I expected the familar question about what I was using and was a little surprised when they asked why I'd chosen to fish that area as they frequent the lake and had never even considered it. I explained that the flat had deep water access and was worth checking out IMO. There was a slow taper from four feet to ten feet before it dropped to 24ft. fairly quickly. That second drop was a good distance from the flat and they couldn't understand my definition of deep water access as the deep water was maybe 100yrd. from where the flat started slowly tapering off. What is your definition of deep water access and like me, does it change with the season and is it realative to the overall depth?

I think most of the members here would practice common courtesy when dock fishing, but I also believe that if my skill level plays a part in making the decision to fish or not fish docks with the owners boat moored. I don't leave my boat in the water dockside for any length of time, especially during mid-day hours because I know other anglers will attempt to fish there and my boat is aluminum. If I had a boat or dock that I wanted to discourage anglers from casting to, at the very least I would put a sign similar to'; I don't skip rocks under your car, please don't skip lures under my boat. The problem gets intensified when two 'alpha males' (dock owner and fisherman) butt heads over who is right or wrong. A dock with a sign that says 'NO FISING; or a dock with some sort of deterent can be ignored by anglers, or respected. I choose to do the latter.

When I first started dropshotting, I attached a three foot length of mono to my main line using a swivel, attached the hook with a palmar knot about a foot down and a dropshot weight somewhere below. I liked the ease of attaching the leader and changing the position of the weight up or down the line. This is the set-up I still use, but I rarely change the weight's position anymore. Never had a line twist issue.

I rented a mooring spot for the week-end at a big marina while camping at the nearby state grounds. On the second morning I was horrified to find my trolling motor, battery, portable gas tank and all my kid's fishing gear gone. The only thing that kept the thieves from walking off with my outboard was a cheap padlock. I ended up getting next to nothing when I filed a claim with my insurance, because I had signed the short term lease that included a clause that the marina was not liable for lost or stolen articles.

For you guys that are looking to up your game and as a reminder to those like me that often forget lessons we've learned. There are times when making multiple casts to the same target is the only way to get bit. When you are confident a piece of cover holds a fish, never give up on it after only a cast or two. That may produce on occasion, but when they are reluctant to strike it may take knocking on the door until they have to answer just to shut you up! This mind set produced the only musky I caught on my annual outing this year. On the fifth cast with a buzzer over a sunken boat rack from the same angle, she exploded on it. I've had this happen numerous time, but I'm usually so tuned in on one thing or another. that I forget to try this approach. I'd tattoo it on my forehead, but that would only work when the water is like glass and I could see my own reflection.

I know what you guys are talking about, but I was referring to situations like: "I never hooked myself when lipping a bass." Two days later you put a #2 treble in your thumb. My personal favorite is: "I've never broken a rod tip." On the second outing with my custom built tube rod, it broke when I set the hook on a rock!

We need to give a name to this jinx person/entity/spirit or whatever you consider the source to be. Whatever it is, it tagged along on my fishing vacation. I had mentioned to my kid that I haven't had any trouble getting my outboard started. I thought the battery was going to die. Before I could get it running today. Twenty minutes later a nice smallie decided to share one of the trebles on my Super Spookwhile cone of he other two was still in. His mouth. Got it buried into my right thumb we'll past the barb. I'm not saying anything to anyone until we can figure out what will keep. This jinx monkey busy until hunting. Season

Thought maybe you dropped off the face of the earth as we haven't heard from you in quite a while. Plenty of fishing, including with the grandson. In northwest Wisconsin chasing musky and our last club tourney. Is this week-end. Don't be a stranger

I find that a slower retrieve works best when targeting isolated cover and a faster retrieve works better when I'm searching with it and a clacker works better then also.

The biggest difference if found when fishing square bills is when using them in wood cover. When I feel the line dragging over a limb, I'll speed it up to get good deflection. With a round or coffin billed crank, I'll feel my way through the limbs more. The other big difference is the action. It's like comparing the difference of a flat bodied crank to an egg shaped one, totally different and often that makes a big difference in catching.

I like the fact that they float, so for presentations like shakes head or C-Rig they're tops.

I picked up a couple of good size fish in my last tourney by stroking a 1/2oz RedEye. Try different speeds or pumping your rod tip during the retrieve That can trigger reluctant followers to strike. BTW, that works with most moving baits, the quick increase in speed makes it look like your bait is trying to flee.

Many of us northerners use trolling when targeting walleye,pike and other species. I recall a time when it was also used for bass,mostly for locating active fish, but never hear or read about it anymore. So it got me to wondering if it's a lost art, or if some bass anglers still use it. I know that personally, I have caught some nice bass while trolling for other species, but except for dragging a split shot rig while drifting, it isn't a presentation method that I consider when targeting bass. If there is anyone here that does troll for bass, a few tips would be more than welcome. I'll start by mentioning the use of side planners. I use Off Shore Tackle's because of the simplicity. I just let out line to whatever distance and clip it on.

I go with a Kalin's grub on my lighter jigs an either a RageTail or CrawPapi on the heavier ones or when I'm looking to add size.

I had a thread similar to this going a while back. I never, in fifty years of fishing, broke a rod tip. Shortly after saying so here in print, I broke the tip off of a rod that I'd built myself. Call it a jinx or a curse, or whatever but it's out there. Just ask those guys that made the cover of 'Sports Illustrated'

A straight shank, round bend worm hook. If you prefer an off set hook, I'd recommend an EWG over the round bend. Go one size up with the straight shank.

Don't forget a white jig and RageTail Craw.

I'm not sure what baits I'd purchase, but a topo map of the lake would be tops on my list. Otherwise, I'd go with; 2 different style top water baits, 2 different weights of spinnerbaits-jigs-worm weights, 5in. Senko, 6in. worm, jig trailer, hooks in 2/0&4/0, a shallow and deep running crank, Mepps spinner and a 3/8oz. lipless crank.