papajoe222

You're going to have to sacrifice casting distance if you want to stick with a jig as the heavy one you mentioned will burry itself in the weeds/muck. If you want to go with a jig and not a T-rig, I'd suggest a light shakey head and a floating straight tailed drop shot worm. The combination of a light jig head and worm won't burry into the weeds, it'll either rest on top or slightly into the weeds depending on the type and thickness of them. You can use either hop/rip/ or shake presentation for the tops of the weeds. If you want a bottom presentation, you'll need either a swim jig with the line tie at the nose, or a T-rig.

I do a roll cast. It's kind of like turning a door knob counter clockwise, of course that's also the way I cast forehand, so it just seemed the easiest for me.

Many of the natural lakes I fish are under 1000 acres, a few are under 100. The majority of them also have no shad populations. The lakes with a healthy population of milfoil or coontail are the best producers as both the baitfish and the bass relate to the weeds. Those that only have sparce cover are tough to fish as the bass and baitfish move around a lot. The lakes with plenty of weeds do have some structure, but lack other forms of cover. Irregularities in the weed beds along with the edges where the weeds stop growing are the best producers (that includes the top edge whether or not the weeds grow to the surface). Any place where the weeds abruptly stop growing is an indication of structure, in this case, a change in bottom composition and those areas are spots to key on no matter what season, but especially during the summer. If nothing else, envision the cuts, turns and points in the weeds the same as those of a shoreline and you'll locate a good majority of the shallow fish. If the lake has a depth of 30ft. at the deepest, there are likely other forms of structure and I would look for quick depth changes or rises even if they're only a few feet. Any of those that continue toward the shallows can be producers both during the summer and winter as the deeper holding fish in the summer will use them when accessing the shallows and the majority of fish will migrate to them in the winter.

I do better in the spring, when water temps are rising than in the fall in that temp. range. That's most likely do to the fact that the fish are becomming more active as the water's temp. rises. In the fall, with dropping temps. they're movement is away from the shallows and a buzzbait isn't known for calling fish up from deep water. Although nothing beats topwater when it comes to exciting fishing, there are a number of different presentations that are more suited to that temp. range (spring or fall).

I have two of them. One is a 6'6" Med and the other is the same length in a MH. They're light and sensitive although I do own IM7 rods that are, IMO, more sensitive. I would rate it higher on the scale than, say a BPS Extreme. It's a heck of a lot better looking than most with the butt wrap and the metalic thread used on the guide wraps and the premium cork.. They quit making them for whatever reason about eight years ago. Too bad, because at the time they were introduced they out performed rods that sold for twice their price. If they were to come out with them in a split grip with micro guides, I'd replace my two favorites with them. That's how much I like them.

In a word, persistance. Ever have one of those days when you just can't figure them out, or do you just give up and attribute it to some factor that's out of your control? This past season really tested my persistant approach as there were very few 'easy' days on the water. It would often take me the better part of my fishing time eliminating different scenarios before I came up with the right combination. Even then, results weren't anything to really get the adrenalin pumping. I'll admit that sometimes it was just staying out there long enough for conditions to change, but I have to believe persistance plalys a large part even in that. (My wife says that's being hard headed, but who listens to their wife?)

A helpful hint, if you don't mind. As you remove the parts from the reel, lay them out from left to right on a clean surface (I like using a gift box cover). Reverse the order when reassembling. This will help you when it comes to location of the smaller parts like washers and screws. Be careful when removing springs and clips. If they fly off, they're a bugger to find.

Depend if I'm fishing vertically or not. I like a floating worm if I am, as it stands out off the main line better. If not, I'm using a hand poured 4in. fry style worm that has a lot of salt in it. If I'm using a Bubba Shot (heavy weight and bigger plastic) I go for a Strike King Coffee Tube with the tail dipped in JJ's.

I asked the same question a while back an did a little research on it. Bottom line is; If you like the newer features, you will likely be pleased with this reel. For me, there just aren't enough first hand reviews to pluck down $200+ on a reel, even if it is a Daiwa with the Sol moniker

For me, it's all about technique and that almost always translates into something different than what the majority of guys are using. On my home waters spinnerbaits, senkos, and jigs are the baits of choice. I opt for a swim jig, Fluke and creature baits. On another lake I frequent, cranks and worms are the norm. I'm tossing swimbaits and jigs. I'm targeting the same areas with similar style presentations, but I'm using baits that are different. If I haven't a clue what the locals are using, a Senko or Fluke are where I start.

I throw a 1/2oz. more often than not, for a couple of reasons. Being a little heavier, it's easier to cast, both for distance and accuracy. They also don't roll on their side as easily if I upsize the blades. If I want to keep it high in the water column, I'll either change to a larger main blade or add a bulky plastic trailer like a Kalin's Lunker Grub. When I try that with a 3/8, it wants to roll and I have to slow down my retrieve. To me, that's counter productive. The majority of the time I'm fising a spinnerbait in 15ft. of water or less, so there are very few situations where I'd need to go heavier.

After you make a cast, when does the thumb bar lock in the up position? If it stays locked in the up position, but you're able to retrieve line it sounds like a part may be missing. If the reel locks up completely a part may have been replaced incorrectly. If you can get a schematic, check it against your pics. Otherwise I'd either take it to, or send it to a repair shop.

Power loading is defined as using the boat's engine to load the boat on to the trailer and unless the use of outboards is prohibited or doing so is prohibited on your waters, no you can't get fined. The Coast Guard only recommends not doing so as a saftey precaution.

60ft. 6in.

Awesome. Is that a skin mount, or a replica?

A lot depends on the way your motors are mounted. If your outboard is clamped on the transom rather than bolted, there is usually a way to run a lock through the clamps. If it's bolted on, it's likely too heavy for someone to walk off with. Just add a prop lock. As for the TM, if it's a cable steer bow mount, unplug it and loosen the clamp that holds it to the mounting bracket (Motor Guides). It will swing open like a gate and you can remove just the motor. Some electric and remote steered units have a quick disconnect plate where it mounts to the bracket. For clamp on motors, I'd say just unclamp it and disconnect the power. You can set it inside your garage or even a closet. Most depth finders have quick disconnect mounts and cables. Don't forget to secure your spare tire as they are and easy target also. I store my boat at a remote lot over the winter, so I leave nothing on it that can be removed easily and I run a cable thru both wheels.

X2. In 30+years of boating, I can count on my hands how many times I've power loaded my boat. Most Coast Guard boating saftey courses recommend NOT power loading, but it is the most often used technique. I suggest that every boater should not only know how to trailer his boat using a cast off line, but also how to launch with it. Im not saying one should never power load, just know how to do it manualy.

Two of the most common mistakes anglers new to baitcasters make when it comes to accuracy are making long casts (results in loss of accuracy to the left and right) and not aiming past your target and thumbing the spool (falling short of your target). I can't emphasize how important the latter is, not only to accuracy, but also to a softer entry into the water. Your rod choice can make a big difference also. Long rods are great for long casts, but unless your pitching you will be more accurate with a shorter rod.

It depends on which search mode I'm in. If I start shallow and work my way deep looking for active fish, it's topwaters, spinnerbaits, cranks. Deep to shallow, it's cranks or a C-Rig, spinnerbaits and jigs. About the only time I'll change up is if conditions haven't changed since my last outing, or I'm marking fish or baitfish schools. Cold front conditions are a whole different scenario.

It seems that every season brings with it a different bait that just seems to outproduce the others and I'll always have that bait tied on. For the purposes of learning the ins and outs of a certain bait or presentation, I have limited myself to just that bait for an entire outing. I did that exact thing with a Norman Deep Little N and by the end of the day I could tell what type of bottom I was fishing, when the bait was approaching a limb or large rock, when the bottom rose or fell and sadly that I needed to retie frequently. Although a great way to learn, the biggest majority of time I'm out to catch fish and I don't limit myself to just one bait.

I was wondering if any of you have given names to any of your favorite fishing spots. I'm not talking about the bodies of water, but honey holes or just spots that have some sentimental value to you. The first one I recall giving a name to was an area on the lake my folks had a cabin on when I was growing up. After my dad passed and mom sold the place, I would still visit the lake a few times a year. My dad made sure to visit that area at least once every outing and it rarely disappointed. I came to call it dad's spot. I haven't been on that lake in twenty years, but I'm sure I could still find it and it will always be dad's spot to me. Pete's Place, Dave's point and Chuck's Pagoda all have stories behind them too. What's yours?

Hands down, it's my grandson. Despite his short attention span, unrefined skills, and indifference to instructions from your's truly, the level of excitement he brings with him makes every outing one that I can't help but cherish.

I don't use chatterbaits, but as far as spinnerbaits go, I tend to lean toward the heavy side, especially when target fishing or when I want to keep the bait down. I can run a heavier bait shallow or slower by switching out the blades. I also find it easier to pinpoint cast the heavier ones.

A suspending or slow rising crank will both cover water and elicit reaction strikes, just choose one that will run shallower than the depth you're fishing. If you can find one without rattles, all the better. Crank it down and pump your rod tip to move it, or pause it regularly during your retrieve. Swimming a jig with a curly tailed grub like a Kalin's Lunker Grub is another option, but fishing from shore makes it difficult to NOT make bottom contact during your retrieve. Lastly, don't overlook a lipless crank. Even if you occasionally tick the bottom, a sharp jerk of the rod tip will normally clear the hooks and get it back up off the bottom. Hang on, because that sudden burst of speed and change of direction can trigger some aggressive strikes.

If you know that the fish had been relating to the weeds prior to them starting to die, then I'd recommend checking out the inside weed line, or looking for other types of cover (rocks/wood) on similar structure. The other thing that you should always keep in mind is; Where are the baitfish? if they're still using the weeds, that's where the bass should be. On the natural lakes around here, the baitfish will often move toward shore if there is an open area between it and the weeds (inside weed line). On many impoundments they may move completely away from the weeds seeking either another form of cover or deeper water with some sort of escape route. Not knowing what type of lake you were fishing, it'd be difficult to be more specific.