papajoe222

Yes, if you work from shallow to deep, but not if you work deep to shallow. If, like me, you begin your search shallow and work your way deep you may or may not run over the top of fish that are holding deep. Two things I keep in mind. First is that I don't approach the destination of the fish using the same route from deep to shallow that they would (or I think they would). Second I'm looking for active fish first. If I'm lucky enough to find them shallow and active, there is no need for me to continue my search. It's over. If not, I continue my way deeper along the structure until I contact fish. At that point I would stop as my search has ended. The only reason for me to move once I've located fish willing to take my offering, is if the fish move. When they do, I know that their next stop will either be a spot just shallow of where I am, or deeper along the structure (which is normally what happens). Starting deep and working shallow also works, but in doing so you may be missing out on actively feeding fish even though you are catching less active fish. Either way you are using the structure as the basis of your search.

Reelnm The feeding area depends on the major forage the bass are targeting. In the example you described it would be different for shad than for, say minnows or bluegill. If you consider the forage, the route or structure the bass use can be different as well as where the 'dining room' is located on the point. Structure fishing, although it may sound difficult, is no harder to understand than considering which docks will be most productive along a shoreline of hundreds. You are basically using a simple, fundamental fact that is the basis of structure fishing. The main difference is structure fishing is more relevant to bass that use deep water as their 'home' or area of rest and travel to an area to feed and less to those that stay in the shallows even when they aren't feeding.

The great thing about custom rods is they are built for exactly what you intend to use them for and they are built to your specs. For instance, you want a specific length and action. Once you decide on a blank, the guides reel seat and composition of the handle are also up to you. You don't have to settle for a split grip cork handle just because that's the only Rod you can locate in that length/action/power.

I only use ribbon tailed worms when I'm looking to cover a lot of water more as a search bait. I'll swim it with a handle turn, pause until it contacts bottom and repeat. I also use it at night slow rolling it like a spinnerbait. In either case, I'll switch to a G-Tail oe a paddle tail once I contact fish. They are baits I also fish fast, but not as fast as the ribbon tail and I use the Rod, not the reel to move them along.

This is a bit off topic, but something I feel that needs to be pointed out is location of fish on structure. The majority of these discussions seem to focus on different types, or location of it in different types of lakes. One thing that Murphy, Perry and Hope all point out is the movement of bass from deeper water to the shallows or feeding grounds and the importance of structure to those movements. Mr. Perry referred to those movements as migration routes although the term more accurately is a description is seasonal movements. Dining room to living room, or however you care to describe that movement, keep in mind that the bass' objective is to get to that feeding site. Their location, along with their activity level, at any given time could be anywhere along that route or path. As anglers, we use the information about structure to give us a place to start our search because we know the fish will use it in their movements. The key, I believe, is knowing that the stops the bass make along the way will be the areas of concentrations of fish and the closer to the 'dining room' the more active those groups will be. A typical milk run for me will start at the feeding shelf or area where I target active fish, then work my way down the structure or 'funnel' stopping at the breaks along the way until I contact fish.

Don't be fooled into thinking that fluoro doesn't stretch, it does. What you should look at is the rod you'll be using for the application. Many anglers use the stretch in mono to counter using a fast tip rod. The rod isn't 'forgiving' but the line is. That same line on a rod designed for cranking would result in poor hooking. Although I have a hate/hate relationship with fluoro, it is a much better choice for cranking for a couple of reasons. I just prefer mono and use a rod with a faster tip. Many anglers use spinning gear for cranking purposes and pair it with braid and when you look at the bend in their rods from this perspective, you'll see why it works for them.

On my first outing to one of the TVA lakes, what RoLo says was a lesson I learned, or should I say reminded of. We fished a bluff wall with a shallow shelf. I would have been searching for fish suspended off the edge of the drop, but we found active fish on that shelf that wasn't much wider that the boat in some places. It was a lesson I had learned years ago fishing the strip pits in my area with similar features. I just hadn't fished them in decades, so the lesson was forgotten. The basic principles of using structure to locate fish still applies, I just didn't take my own advice and apply it to the water I was on.

As with most soft plastics, many different retrieves will work at one time or another. My personal view is that different plastics have their own, most productive retrieve. A ribbed worm or craw are killers when dragged along the bottom, so I'll use them when I want more contact with the bait than say a C-rig would afford me. T-rigged worms are no different when it comes to my decision to use them. I consider the style of worm. Curly tails shine when used with a lift/drop retrieve that moves the bait fairly quickly along. A paddle tail is awesome when jigged or 'stroked' of the bottom. Senkos are great when moved with the reel. I'm not saying I don't recommend using any bait only one way, just that some baits seem to perform better for me when presented one way over another. I would suggest starting with a worm that has a little action built in. Use just enough weight to stay in contact with it and mix up your retrieve until you find out what works.

That's why I'm calling mine skunk repellent. I thought about callin it MARx (mobile angling prescription box), but asking one of my co-anglers to hand me Mark's box may get me some quisical looks. I've added a couple of Pond Magic and Beetle Spinners and I'll be picking up some small stick worms before ice-out.

Yea, right. This old fart rarely indulges in the endeavor you use for your screen name, let alone getting his sorry butt up on skis, but thanks for you imput.

Game over????? I don't think so. Just wait until I get my tackle box, AKA as a Tracker 175, out of storage be fore you declare a winner. I have that much EXTRA stuff that won't fit in it

I've found they don't fair well if left in th box. They do, however, become excellent catfish bait.

So I decided to do something to both keep my cabin fever and the bait monkey at bay, for now at least. I'm making up my own version of a 'panic box' from my existing tackle, skunk repellent Papa style. Mostly downsized versions of my confidence baits along with some items from my walleye and crappie tackle that continually produce bass Here is what I've put together so far: Zara Puppies, 2in. Lazy Ike's, Mepps squirrel tails, RoadRunners, #5 Rapalas, crappie cranks, 1/8oz Chatterbaits-spinnerbaits-hair jigs, split shot, slip bobbers, assorted hooks and of course French Fry worms. I may need to purchase a few items, but what would you add from your existing tackle?

It's a possibility, but there are only a few sure ways to find out. One of which is actually seeing them which you ovbiously haven't and the other is to look for an earthen shore where the burrow into for the winter. You'll see the holes in the spring when the watter is clear and sometimes on the shoreline if the water level receeded over the winter. Reguardless of whether the pond contains crawfish or not, craw imitations such as a jig and pig will still produce. I don't know why, I just know that, like a plastic worm, it seems to produce anywhere bass live.

There are advantages and disadvantages to the different styles. In general, I would say to replace the original hooks with a similar style and size hook (your brand of choice). Wide gap or 'tripple grip' style hooks are good replacement on lures that fish have a tendancy to throw easily like lipless cranks/ Short shanks are an option for not only eliminating tangling, but for upsizing the size of hook without making the lure more prone to snagging, or adjusting the way a particular bait suspends. Changing styles and size from the originals can improve the lure's action and your hook ups, but sometimes can give you the opposite results. The only way to know for sure is to try them out.

Welcome to the board and this topic will spark some good discussion. I echo the statement about your waters not being able to support shad. Aside from that, there are likely two other types of forage the bass use that you didn't mention; minnows and crawfish. Reguardless of the type of forage, remember that a bass is a hunter and will ambush it's prey a majority of the time. It is also, primarily, a sight feeder. Keeping those two facts in mind, information about a specific forage's habits and movements is beneficial, but not essential in forming your game plan. Here is what I have come to observe about sunfish and perch and how bass relate to them. Schooling bass will target perch if there isn't a sufficient minnow population to sustain their numbers and perch are a schooling species similar to crappie. Bluegill and most other sunfish are a part of a bass' diet only if there isn't a population of other forage that is easier for them to swallow, or they are an opportune (easy) target. If your observations are accurate, I would look for smaller bass to be roaming in schools that are following smaller perch and the larger bass to be feeding in the shallows where cover is present. Notice I said feeding as their 'home teritory' could be deep or shallow. The forage they target most will be in the shallower cover.

Maybe we should start a support group. The only problem I can see in that is finding someone that would host it. It's my understanding that the host is someone that can actually offer constructive insight to the group's problem. I don't believe there is such a person.

All I have to say is: ARRRRG!!!

Frustration with winter has set in already and I'm still looking a two full months or more of ice covered lakes and rivers here. I've already exhausted most, if not all of my release valves that normally keep me sane over the course of a normal winter. I've built two rods, cleaned 14 reels, organized and changed hooks on my hard baits, inventoried the majority of my tacke and made a list of items to be purchased prior to getting the boat ready sometime in early March. The early arrival of below freezing temps along with the deep freeze we're encountering has really deflated my optimism and my tequila budget has me looking at Sauza and that's really rock bottom for me. I recently reconciled myself to the fact that I won't be able to attend this years unofficial road trip and have been contemplating something very drastic...................does anyone know of a hot line for people contemplating ICE FISHING? I know Raul is secretly grinning that dastardly grin he gets when any of us Guys faced with this winter dilemma vent, but just thank the man upstairs for your good fortune and try not to add salt to our wounds please.

The lack of shallow water in itself, if the lake has an abundance of stained or dirty water, may pose problems for spawning. However, clear water offers much better light penetration which is essential to a succesfull spawn. I fish many strip pits that contain only 10-15% of water that is under 8ft., yet bass, bluegill, crappie and catfish abound. Bodies of water such as these are difficult to be successfull on a regular basis because the fish (bass especially) suspend and move frequently. That is why trolling is a good approach. The fact that you need to concentrate on is that those fish relate to the structure. That, in a nutshell, is the mindset of all 'structure fishermen.'

I remember both the man and the magazine. I also remember highlighting the different articles. This is one of the few magazines I kept. I even had binders for them as I refered to the different articles often. Thanks for the great information and the trip down memory lane.

I use them mainly in the spring, pre-spawn. A trailer will add both additional lift and action which allows me to keep the bait high, but slow. It's an alternative to using a willow blade rather than aColorado blade. Along with more flash, you also get the benefit of the added action. Years ago, Uncle Josh made a curly pork strip that fit the bill and also added some scent. Now it's a Kalin's Lunker Grub or a RageTail.

It's not a color pattern that produces much for me. That leads me to think it would work better in waters that have some color to them. I fish a lot of clear lakes and unless there's an alge bloom, I rarely tie anything on in that color pattern.

If you're looking for a brand that won't suck your wallet dry if you loose a couple, Bandit and Norman (Splatter Bass) both offer a reasonably priced bait.

I've used and continue to use a variety of methods, but a tooth pick (no cactus 'round here) through the worm and eye of a standard off-set worm hook gets the job done on worms and lizzards. As for a hook style that seems to work very well on beefier plastics like beavers and tubes, the SkipGap has won me over.