papajoe222

" I wonder why I keep a picture of a 5 pounder laying next to a rod, that's anything but a photo op." For the same reason I have pics of all my reels inertnals when I first disassembled them. Well maybe not, but I still have them because I'm lazy. It's a lot easier to download them all to my hard drive when the phone's memory gets a little to full than to individually delete or put them in folders. Besides, If I were doing that I wouldn't be spending my time bonding with a bunch of guys I'll likely never lay eyes on. I have my priorities.

I have been searching for this ammo for months to no avail. My Savage bolt action absolutely loves ths ammo (40gr SP) over any other. If you can put me in touch with a shop near you that carries it. please do so. I'm down to my last 100 rounds and competition will be starting before I know it. Thanks

The best way I know, without the use of a side imaging unit, is to run parallel to the weed-line casting ahead of the boat at 10,12 and 2:00 with a bait that will contact the bottom, but not penetrate deep into the weeds. If you don't contact weeds with your 10:00 cast, you need to swing shallower and if you're still contacting weeds with your 2:00 you need to move deeper. The other thing I've done, but involves actually motoring down the weed-line, is use marker buoys to outline the edge and then return to work it.

I prefer to carry one size craw trailer and trim it to the size needed. The other option is to thread a bigger trailer onto the hook. It not only shortens the profile, but still adds the added bulk and bouyancy of the extra plastic.

I use a swivel to attach the leader to braid and try to keep the hook at least 12in. down from it. How much distance from the hook to the weight varies.

Ribbon tail worms are a great weapon, but not one to replace a stick worm. They are an action Bait and that action comes from moving it. Color and size preferences vary by water color, forage base etc. as with most baits. My motto when trying something new: K.I.S.S. OH YEA, don't forget black

I love summer because I have fewer aches and pains when fishing! I gotta start heading south around Labor Day.

Except for soft plastics, all my tackle is stored/carried in 3700 or 3600 boxes. Plastics are separated by type in one of three Flambeau super half satchels. I prefer hard sided containers to bags or soft sides. The remainder of my extra tackle is on a peg board system.

I am familiar with the Fox, but not for smallies although I have caoght them below the dam/spillway near Montgomery and I would immagine a similar area near you would also produce once the water temp. Gets above 50. Look for areas where there is a current break (obstructions like rocks, bridge pilings,etc) and don't forget current seams. Active smallies will be in the push area (upstream side) of the breaks, but presentation is a challenge at best. The areas behind the breaks will hold them the majority of the time. Washes or deeper pockets will hold them now, but the area you're in is shallow and there may not be many deep enough.

The baldes provide flash and lift. A willow blade provides the most flash and the least amount of lift and a Colorado provides the least flash and the most lift. The Indiana is somewhere inbetween in both areas. Keep in mind that you can also add lift by increasing the size of the blade, so if you still want the flash of a willow blade and need to keep the bait high you can go a size or two larger. There is a limit as to how big you can go with any style blade before your bait will start running on it's side, but I think you get the idea. There is no need to spend a bundle on spinnerbaits if you're just starting out or just getting into using them. A few in different size weights and colors, a pair of split ring pliers (or strong fingernails) and an assortment of blades and you have any number of varieties that you can show the fish. BTW, you can change out blades while the bait is still tied on to explore a different depth and or give the fish a different look. It takes about the same amount of time as cutting one bait off and tieing on another.

No, I actually go to a different style blade (Colorado or Indiana), or upsize in the spring. I'm attempting to slow down the retrieve speed and still maintain a shallow running depth. I'll downsize back to the original after post spawn and upsize again in the fall sticking with a willow blade.

Fishing from shore requires a stealth approach. If you can approach the shoreline without spooking every fish within casting distance, standing close gives you many more casting options. Your son's approach, likely, will not spook any fish and seems to fit his style of moving quickly down the shore. Neither is better IMO, except that yours will hit the same target from different angles as you move down the shore.

My trusty, pistol gripped top water rod is in serious need of a face lift (actually, it's a butt lift). The cork is seriously pitted. I've never attempted to either use cork filler, or replace a grip. Reworking the existing cork would be a project I'd be more comfortable doing, but I'm not sure if it would only be a 'BandAid' fix. Any thoughts?

Thrust is a fairly forward. Amp. draw as it relates to thrust is where my concern lies. It's kind of like the mpg you get from your truck but in reverse. A small block will get better fuel mileage at a given speed than a big block. You'll get more time out of a 24V than a 12V running at the same thrust, Not because the 24V draws less amps (it may), but because of the two batteries it's drawing them from.

I'm going to start checking out the clearance section of my local shops because the going price for both the XCalibur and StrikeKing squarebills around here is $7.

I'm in agreement. If you're looking to hook up with a 10-14lb. bass, you should consider looking below the Mason-Dixon. My best out of Delavan was a shade over six, but i'll boat a 4-5lb. largemout once in every eight or nine hours I spend on the water.

I mostly lip the fish very carefully unless the hooks are deep in it's mouth. On the other hand, I've had a number of fish shaking to get free from one hook while I was hooked with the other, so don't take my advice. I'm a s l o w learner.

Not sure if this is where to ask, but I have a 24V MotorGuide on my Tracker and I'm thinking of going to a glass boat. The few that I've looked at come equipped with 12V trolling motors and that got me wondering if that isn't a little underpowered for an 18ft. boat? I like the 24V more for the amount of fishing time I can get before I have to recharge rather than the thrust it offers over the 12V. I read of guys that have 36V motors on their 21ft. boats. That's what got me to wondering about a 12V on an 18ft.

It seems to me that when the discussion around here gets to squarebills, StrikeKing KVD 1.5 & 2.5 get all the attention. I own a couple of each, but my XCalibur squarebills seem to outproduce them big time. Add the fact that the stock hooks are superior and I wonder why they arent' getting more recognition.

Old school here. 3-4in. tube in green or brown. Many different rigging options, but an internal 3/16oz jig won't let you down 90% of the time.

In my original response, I listed two actors and not the character. Without a doubt mine would be James Bond. I really don't care which actor, though Sean Connery was may fav.

Although I consider myself a gambler, I rarely play the lottery. However, with the Power Ball jacpot in the $500 million neighborhood I decided to waste $2. I was asked what I'd do with the money if I won and when I answered that I hadn't thought about it the clerk looked at me like I was from another plannet. I still haven't thought about it, but I was wondering what YOU would do if you won?

Many shallow lakes and ponds contain little or no structure and because of that, cover becomes the top priority of both the bass and forage. The presence of forage is what makes the cover a priority to the bass. IMO, it is more important in determining the location of bass during the cold water period than any other season. The simple reason being that bass will not exhaust the energy it takes to either chase down, or move to where the forage when their body temp. is low. They will either stage below the forage, or in the path of forage that moves frequently. If there are structural changes in the deepest parts of the lake and the baitfish are relating to them, the bass won't be far. When they do decide to feed they only need to move a few feet and usually that movement is vertically, which requires less energy.

Me too. I'll even pay...................................for the first round that is.

Some guys 'stumble' upon that color while switching colors when they weren't catching anything. Some just started using a color because someone recommended it, or they saw or read about it being used successfully. I become confident in a color the same way I do in a technique or a lure type. That is, I limit myself to using only that color, technique, lure, etc. on a particular outing. When it comes to color, it's always been a challenge as there are so many different lure styles and many colors are only available in soft plastics, or on hard baits, so I take it one step farther and concentrate on a given color in a certain type of lure. Take sexy shad colored cranks for example. I never threw anything that remotely resembled that color pattern on a crank in my life, but after all the hoopla it was getting a while back I decided to give it a shot. I set out mid afternoon with three different cranks in that color and left everything else locked up. By sunset I had determined that, despite my reluctance to accept it, that color combination would catch bass in the clear water that I frequent. So how do or did you gain confidence in a color? By accident, trial and error, recommendation, or, like me, by letting it prove itself?