papajoe222

I only look at the line tie position when attempting to determine how quickly a bait will dive to it's running depth and how much strain it's going to put on me and my equipment.

You mention that the bass have just started to spawn and you also mention that the river that feeds the lake then flows into a big lake. Are there two lakes? The fact that the fish have just started spawning would have me suggest fishing any spawning flats you come across.The main lake's point that you describe, if it leads up to a flat on one side would be worth checking out if the females have already dropped their eggs. Either way, the fish aren't going to be in a chasing mood. A PopR worked slowly over a spawning area will get some attention out of pre spawners and occasionally from males protecting the eggs. A C-rigged or split shot worm or lizard can be worked down the point in search of post spawners. A drop shot would be my third choice worked through the spawning area and then in the first deep water out from it.

Drop shotting in muddy water is likely not the best option, as it is designed as a finesse presentation. (you definition of muddy and mine could differ greatly). That being said, bright or dark colors would be seen easier than natural colors.

If the water isn't on the clear side, you can flip, or pitch to gain access under the overhanging limbs. If the water is clear, you can skip a tube or frog up under them. Depending on your casting accuracy, I would recommend avoiding treble hooked baits cast toward shore, but you could tune a crank to run to the right or left and cast parallel to the shore. The bait would then run under the limbs on the retrieve. I do this when fishing a long line of docks. Those fish see a ton of jigs and such, but rarely a crank banging into the pilings and scooting under the dock.

Check out the latest contest. The prize is an Okuma reel. I don't recall if Pinnacle was a sponsor, but Daiwa and Shimano are also not sponsors and their products also get glowing reviews. Quality equipment will do that.

Tubes. Like most soft plastics, there are numerous ways to rig them and they come in different sizes. Similar to a wacky rigged stick worm, their action is unique. They are awesome on top of matted vegetation or the tops of submergent weeds when fished weightless. Just let them drop into openings or off the edge of a mat. Those and a Mepps spinner.

That 'snot moss' is the worst, especially when it get so thick on the surface that my Lab can walk across it. Just kidding (I don't have a dog), but you know when it gets three inches thick on top you'd swear one could. I'll throw a frog on top and work it to the edge. The bass can't even bust through it, but they'll follow it out to the edge and explode on it first chance they get.

I do and I also add split rings to my original Spooks. On some of my baits I've put SureSets on the belly and Mustad TrippleGrips on the tail. The others get short shanks (one size up) on the belly. I never cared for the stock hooks on the originals and would switch out hooks and add split rings before they ever saw water.

My neighbor is a 'meat' fisherman. I don't have a problem with that, table fare is one of the reasons he likes to fish. His dad, on the other hand, keeps everything he catches. We were all fishing from the neighbor's boat and I caught a little 14in. bass. I unhooked it and as I released it he swore at me and followed that up with ' whatever comes in this boat, stays in it.' I proceeded to flatten the barb on my hook and didn't land another fish all day, I did manage to loose quite a few including a nice 4lb. smallie. He got his just rewards the following season. He kept an undersized bass, wrapped it in the foil from his lunch and put it in his lunch cooler. The man not only caught him, but confiscated all his gear and if not for some fast talk would have taken the neighbor's boat and gear too. He's never bought a license in his life. His son now refuses to take him out and the old man still refuses to purchase a license.+

Wacky rigging isn't a presentation that will maximize your time on the water, but doing what you mention will reduce the amount of time spent re-rigging

You may be able to pick up one or two released fish, but I'd concentrate on getting a decent limit first. If you were able to pre-fish, stick with the areas you targeted. At the very least, start in an area that meets the basics for the time of year, water temp. and forage base and go from there. Those released fish may stick around, but the ones that do will act like spawned out females. Look for the more active ones out off the first main structure break.

I have to laugh. I'm red/green color blind and after over forty years together my wife still tells me to check out the fall colors or to get her purple scarf for her.I served in the army for three years and spent time as a FO because I could pick out camouflage so easily. Spent 35 years driving a truck and plenty of that was waiting for a red light to change to WHITE

Welcome. You don't list your location in your profile, but I'm guessing you live up north. The reason I say that is topwaters baits don't really start producing until after the females have spawned. Not that they won't, there are just better presentations then. Bass guarding their beds will often slap at one but not take it in their mouth. Chances are the fish haven't spawned out yet. Don't give up on topwaters. They are without a doubt, the most exciting way to catch fish. Time of day and overcast skies can be beneficial, but I've caught literally hundreds of bass mid day. The best advice I can give you is to vary your retrieve until you find the way the fish prefer it. You can throw the right bait in the right place at the right time and have the fish ignore it until you find the right retrieve speed. That fact goes for any bait, not just topwaters.

Welcome. I assume you are proficient at skipping jigs and this is just a concern with this new combo. I doubt whether the micro guides are making the difference. I too would suspect the stiffness of the rod as being the culprit.

I just did a review on the Pinnacle Producer LTE. Check it out. You can pick up one for $70 shipped to your door on that auction site. Add it to an existing rod, or pick up a a rod in the $40 range and you're in the game with good equipment.

I was finally able to put this little gem through it's paces a few times this week and I have to say, I'm impressed. I purchased my PD10LTE after reading Road Warior's article. For only $89.99 suggested retail, I figured I couldn't go wrong. Just the features alone warrant a look; Weighing only 5.75oz. it has 9 bearings, a machined aluminum spool, precision gearing, high performance drag along with a swept aluminum handle and star drag. One of the things that impressed me when I opened the box was the easy open side plate. No buttons to push or screws to loosen, just a slight downward turn on the side plate and the spool is accessed. The tolerances were what I'd expect from a reel costing twice as much. Not just the spool to side plate, but the internal gearing as well. No slack anywhere. As Kent had said, it's tight and I'll add that it's also smooth. The spool is supported by three bearings. Bottom line here is the reel's performance and it exceeded my expectations. Not knowing the price tag I would have guessed it to be out of my price range. Knowing I can have another for under $100, I believe I will.

One of two things is happening; they're either in pre or post spawn mode and from Bluebasser's response and a quick water temp. check, I'd venture a guess at the latter. Either way, check out the first drop to deeper water out from the spawning area and remember that deeper is realitive to your waters. A quick change in depth is what to look for. Post spawners are tough to entice a bite from as they are resting up, but the still must eat. Slow and small is the way I tempt them and I find that they will suspend out and off the breakline rather than tight to the bottom. Get your drop shot out and adjust the length until you find how far off the bottom they are as you'll need to put your offering right in front of them.

You mentioned that you remove the split ring on your cranks when using a snap (I'm assuming that's what you meant) and I do the same. Does anyone use a snap and connect it to the split ring?

What iabass8 said. This is a killer presentation I use with a 1/2oz. jig and Kalin's Lunker Grub from late Aug. through Sept. I've also used a similar retrieve with RedEye Shads up in Wisconsin for smalliess. The only difference is how aggressive I hop it. True stroking involves an aggressive upswing of the rod almost like setting the hook. Another benefit to this style of presenting a jig is that, because the jig only sits on the bottom for a very short time, the fish don't get a close look at it before it shoots up again. I've gotten many strikes on the upward movement of the jig just as it begins to rise. No need to set the hook as I just continue the upswing.

I recently had surgery to correct trigger thumb and carpal tunnel syndrome. If I don't stretch my wrist and forearm occasionally while fishing, the pain will momentarily return. My guess is you recently started feeling the discomfort. You can ignore it, sell the Fenwick, or see a Dr. before it gets worse and you end up needing surgery and missing out on 8-10 weeks of fishing.

It's likely been asked before (probably by yours truly), but how do you work a Lucky 13? By looking at it, one would think it's a chugger type topwater and that's the way I've worked it, but the only fish I've been able to get any response from have hit when I was reeling at the end of a cast. Is that just a fast way of working it, or what?

I would too, if they were paying me to. The fact that a celebrity or a pro endorses something, doesn't mean it's better. I've seen sponsored tournament anglers use baits, rods and line that weren't their sponsor's because winning was more important at the time.

You should have checked out the Zane with 580G green lenses. Too late now. Seeing as those are the only two options, I'd go with the Bronze. They'll give you more contrast than either the grey or gold. Use the black (grey) for bright conditions and the bronze for cloudy or overcast conditions. The bronze are also great lenses for driving.

If there is any type of shade, use it to your advantage. A single tree on shore at 4;00 in the afternoon will cast a shadow long enough to extend over the water. You'd be surprised how many fish the shadow of an isolated tree will hold. If there is a breeze, use that to your advantage. A slight chop on the water will reduce visibility enough that the fish won't spook as easily and it will move the food chain to the windward side of the pond. The lack of cover is a good thing, bad thing. It doesn't give the fish a place of security or an ambush spot, but it multiplies those qualities for the slightest little cover that does exist. Small baits, light line and stealth are all beneficial to your success. Use smaller versions of lures you have confidence in (4in. vs. 6in. stick worm, etc.). If your reel came with more than one spool or if you own more than one combo, spool that other one with lighter line, or thinner diameter line. Wear clothing that doesn't make you stand out from your surroundings and approach the shoreline slowly and steadily. Sudden or quick movements will spook fish that have no where to hide. Mid day fishing is often the best time of day for catching the biggest fish in the area. Put the odds in your favor and enjoy.

If you want a quality pair of comfortable sunglasses, you're going to need to spend some money. The good news is you can find something for considerably less than $150, you just need to put some time into your search. I found a pair of WileyX polarized for $50 new and that included shipping. Check out places like E Cop and sportsmanship guide. They often run specials on close outs.