papajoe222

White man known by many names. Chief Long in the Nose never hear this one.

Is that why people look at me funny when I tell them I'll be right back, I gotta paahk the kah?Misused, affect....misspelled, trailer 'jig trailor color?'

I wouldn't put too much faith in the negative reviews on a topwater rod. A six footer is a good length regardless of where you're fishing from. Fast, or mod.fast on the tip depending on your choices in topwaters.

The presence or lack of current makes a big difference in your plan when fishing bridges. Many guys will go directly to the pilings on either side of the creek bed,which is a good starting point for active fish when there is current. You can then work the other pilings and out to the riprap banks. The lack of current may be the reason the locals ignore the bridges and that's a mistake. Would you avoid a major piece of cover on a creek bed that wasn't visible above the surface? Choose a presentation you have confidence in and don't forget to target the up current side of the pilings current or not. Debris will collect there adding a different form of cover. A systematic approach will keep you focused.

To answer your second question, no the length and weight of the rod you use doesn't cause the affliction. It can, however amplify the strain put on your forearm. A rod that is tip heavy will put more strain on the forearm than one that is heavy in the butt section or balanced. In an effort to reduce the strain using your current combos, you could move your hand up the grip (I like to rest my little finger on the trigger of my casting rods when cranking), or you could add some weight to the butt of the rod. Depending on the diameter of the rear grip, taping nickles or quarters to it will give you an idea of how much additional weight is necessary to balance it.

Thanks for the info guys. Old dog here. I just always assumed that a charger charged at a set voltage, never considered that them and the amps varied. Auto charge to me meant the charger would shut down on its own. Glad to learn something AND know there isn't a problem with my system.

Oh. I can think of a couple that would fit the description he gave. Why does it seem like most of (all) the bass fishing magazines have taken a nose dive?

On one of the lakes I fish, there is only one submerged bridge and the creek bottom there is 22ft. It gets a lot of pressure with jigs and C-rigs, so I fish it with a Norman Thin N on a 1/2oz. Booyah Boo Rig. The fish rarely if ever, see a small crank that deep and I've left that old bridge with five or six nice keepers brought to my net on more than one occasion. I used to fish a crappie sized crank on a C-rig there, but with all the chunk rock , I'd get hung up on every third cast or so. The Boo Rig lets you keep the nose of the rig up out of harm's way and I've even run a Bomber Model A on a 2ft. leader behind one.

So I just read my long awaited March issue of this magazine. It's been on the store shelves for over a month, but I have a subscription so I don't expect to receive it in a timely matter. It took all of fourteen minutes to read. What a rip off! Twenty full page ads, another dozen with a third or more if the page containing ads, four full page photos plus the full page photos with the lead in half paragraph and it only contained 48 pages! Guess who isn't renewing his subscription?

Ever since fluoro hit the market I've tried to accept it as another tool to use as it has it's advantages over mono, but I've grown to absolutely despise the stuff. Last fall I picked up a spool of this blend from Yo-Zuri and I gotta say I'm really impressed. I used it a few times last season, but I've really put it through the conditions I would use fluoro in if I didn't hate the stuff so muchon my last few outings.. Anyway, I think I have found a place for the Yo-Zuri in my 'tool box.' This is a great cranking line and outshines mono on my tubin' gear. The things I'm really impressed with are the knot strength and sensitivity. I have a tendency toward a very zealous hook set and that was the downfall of fluoro for me. Not a problem now. I did my 'cross her eyes' hook set on a couple of 3+lb. girls and not only did the knot not break, the sensitivity factor was the reason for my recognition of the first fish. The pick-up of my tube was so subtle, I doubt I would have detected it with mono. Manageability is still a downside as this stuff is on the stiff side, but a little KVD line conditioner and it became manageable. For those of you that have given up on fluorocarbon lines, this could be an alternative. It even comes in an 'Ultra Soft' version that I haven't tried, but my ultra light is looking to get some 6lb. on it soon. (yea, I know 6lb. isn't exactly ultra light, but any thinner and I can't see to tie the stuff)

It's one of the two TM batteries. The other battery pulls 13.2 volts when first plugged in.

You must not fish any water with shallow cover. Without any protection, your transducer is in a position to be the first thing to strike anything. You'll save money doing it your way, but likely end up having to replace it down the road.

My concern is that the battery in question is only drawing a trickle charge from the automatic charger even when first connected. I would expect it to draw a full 6amps @ 13+ volts. I guess it could be holding a charge well enough that it doesn't require more. I just thought there might be a problem.

I normally don't throw square bills until after the spawn and when I do, I like a bigger bait. I don't own any 2.5's, but I'm thinking maybe I should add a couple after all the good things I've been reading about them and the 1.5

When the carp are spawning, which follows shortly after the bass and before the bluegill, I avoid the immediate area as I've never done much good close to all their commotion. Their ritual is a good indicator to me that the female bass have moved off the nests and that's when I begin fishing deeper areas.

I throw T-rig worms on braid in gin clear water all the time. Then again, when I'm T-rigging a worm I drag it along the bottom so the line's visibility isn't a concern. I do, however, add a couple of bars to the line about 4in. apart above the worm.

I believe it's a combination of both. The more line you can move on the hookset, the better your chances of hooking up, but only if the rod has some backbone. then again, with a MH X-Fast rod, there isn't much give so it isn't necessary to move a lot of line as the power of the rod will drive the hook home.

I have a 24V system set up for my trolling motor along with the cranking battery. One of the three is not accepting a full charge from my three bank charger. My volt meter only registers 12.7V the other two batteries are drawing the full 13.2 Volts. It's the newest of the three batteries and if there were a dead cell, it wouldn't register more than 11 Volts. Anyone have an idea what may be going on? I switched the leads from the charger around with the same results, so I know it isn't the charger.

This. Unlike most topwaters, you can't change the cadence, only the speed. With hard body baits you can change both the speed and cadence including dead still.

Only four feet deep? If you want to get her away from live bait you could start her off with a 4in. Senko style worm. Nose hook it with a #4 circle hook and she'll have plenty of action, if you can keep the bluegill at bay.

If the scum is below the surface, you can opt for a topwater. If there is enough space above the scum a Spook should put you back into fish, if not a hollow body frog.

The only time I cast with two hands is when I'm throwing cranks, but then again that's about the only time I'm looking for distance. If I were fishing from shore, I'd do It a lot more.

Don't get me wrong, I love fishing anytime the water isn't hard, but only in the spring can I catch them with almost everything in my tacke box. I was out for a few hours this morning and boated seven bass over 16 in. from a local forest preserve lake. Two each on a spinnerbait, popper and worm, one on a lizard. I had another two on a crank that came unbuttoned. This was the only one over 18in.

Anything that runs under 12ft., it's mono for me. Deeper than that, I use braid, but on a different rod/reel.

Great job. Not to take away from your success, but what lb. test line are you breaking? From your description, it doesn't sound like you're breaking off at the knot, which is what prompted me to discontinue using fluorocarbon.