papajoe222

Isn't that like jumping out of the frying pan into the fire? Just asking. Either that or your wife doesn't have a closet full of shoes, half of which she's never worn. Personally, I'd rather have a tackle box full of lures I've never used.

Just a word of caution when fishing docks and it has everything to do with those folks that use the dock. Never break off a lure that gets hung anywhere on the dock, especially under the surface. The last thing you want is for someone to get a hook in them while sitting on the dock's edge or swimming around it. I voiced that concern to a dock owner when he 'caught' me lying on his deck with my arm in the water up to my neck. He was still pretty irate, but the situation didn't escalate.

One bait that gets overlooked frequently for targeting submerged weeds is a minnow style crank or jerk-bait. It can be twitched, stopped, worked like a crankbait, or ripped free of weeds like a lipless crank. They saved me more than once when following behind other anglers. Most guys only think of them in early spring, or late fall.

Hands down, plastic. Ten years ago I would have said there was a time and place for pork. It's ability to stay supple in cold water along with the 'natural' flavor is what kept pork in many tackle boxes. Now, with all the different formulas for plastics, including scents, salt infused, and Elaztech there is no need, IMO, for it. Another plus to plastics is that they are much easier to remove from your jig not to mention the possibility, with pork of fueling the formation of rust on the hook.

PItching or flipping is going to require you to get fairly close to the docks and in clear water that can spell doom. If you're unable to skip some form of soft plastic, you will only be able to hit the outside edges of the docks. Try this; Rig up two rods with identical crakbaits. Tune one bait to run (track) to the left and the other to the right. Back off just far enough to reach the back of the dock and cast the one that runs left to the right side of the dock and the other one to the left. The baits will run under the dock and bump the pillars as they make their way out to you. The downside to doing this is the toll it takes on your line. Re-tie frequently. If you insist on flipping, run your trolling motor on a constant, low setting and avoid pushing water under the dock. Switching it on and off is a sure way to spook 'em.

The only reply that I disagree with, generally speaking, is that they come through grass better. If reel ess is actually referring to grass vegetation, I'd concur. If the reference is to weeds in general, I've found a lead weight actually aids in working your bait as it is wider and pushes the weeds out away from the front of your bait. That is the only time I see them as a negative.

Shore bound anglers are at a big disadvantage during the summer and winter seasons, mainly because the majority of fish aren't within casting distance. Those that you can reach with a decent cast are spooked easily, have seen most of the lures you mentioned on numerous occasions and likely are only active for short periods. Add to those the lack of cover and I doubt that many fish actually see your offerings. My advice is to find some form of cover within casting distance. Small patches of weeds, an isolated deadfall, or anything the fish can use as an ambush point can hold fish. Then it's just a matter of provoking a strike. Multiple casts to the same target may be needed, but if the forage uses the area, the bass will be there. If there is absolutely no cover available, structural changes are what you need to look for and without the aid of a depthfinder to locate them, you'll need to rely on your gear to find them. A crank that dives deeper than the water you're fishing will relay the bottom content and any sharp drops in depth. Although the structure itself may not hold fish, they will use it when they move around and so will the baitfish.

I like the little rubber bands used for braces, but they don't work well on small diameter blanks. I've heard of guys using everything from twist ties to guide foot glue, but the best idea I've heard of is small pieces of heat shrink tubing. It holds well enough to do a static test and there's no glue residue left behind or chance of scratching the blank with a twist tie.

Are you talking C-Rig? If so, any size bigger than the hole in the bead or weight will work.

If you decide to go with braid, I suggest 30lb. 10lb. braid on a baitcaster is asking for trouble. Mono is okay for both techniques you mention. Neither is ideal for both, so I'd say decide which technique you'll be using most often and choose the line that works best for it.

Knowing what causes fish to act a certain way is beneficial, but not imperative. Knowing that the fish turn off when the pump is on is as beneficial to you as knowing that they get tight lipped under high pressure/cold front conditions. I guessing the pump is on a timer, so planning your fishing trips when it's off would be to your benefit. I'm not saying don't fish it when the pump is on, but treat the situation knowing the bite will be tough.

Bass bite or strike a lure basically two reasons, feeding and reaction. There are multiple reasons for a reaction strike, one of which is opportunity. A Senko presents itself to both as it represents something injured. If you pay attention to the way a fish takes it, you can tell which is the reason, but does it really matter?

Always up for learning something new. Thanks

If I had to choose only one mid-day lure to use in the summer, I'd opt of a jig and craw, mainly because it can be presented multiple ways and because of the confidence I have in it. To answer your question; YES, it is worth being out in the heat if................1) the action of catching overshadows the physical discomfort of dealing with the heat 2) it's the only time you are able to get out on the water. One word to the wise if you decide to brave the summer heat: HYDRATE. Before, during and after getting on the water. Heat and humidity can and will sap your energy along with your fluid level and by the time you realize it, it's likely too late..

I never used a punch rig prior to this season and I also never snelled a hook. Now, whenever I do the first, I always tie it up will a snell knot.

I'd start out with moving baits, cranks and spinnerbaits as the fish may be making a seasonal move by then. A swim jig would give you the option of slowing down if the need arises. I would attempt to get together with your boater before hand. It's useless to put together a game plan only to find out that the guy up front has a completely different idea. If it's a draw tournament, you're just going to need to be versatile. Also, don't assume that because the event is in Sept. that summer patterns won't work. Just as in the spring, not all fish will start their seasonal movements at the same time. Keep an open mind and don't be afraid to open your mouth and make a suggestion or two to the boater, especially if neither of you are catching anything. Good luck and have fun.

I'd venture to say the area is the problem, not the cover or the baits you use. During the summer period, a percentage of fish will stay shallow rather than abandon the shallows for deep water haunts. They won't, however, use shallow cover that does not have quick access to deeper water. The only exceptions to that general rule is when there isn't any deeper water as is the situation in many retention ponds, or they have followed some form of forage into the area and are actively feeding. Look for areas that have a defined drop in depth close to the pads, not a slow taper. That quick drop may only be a couple of feet in depth, but it can be the difference maker. The other thing you must consider is what the fish are feeding on. During the post spawn, bluegill and minnows are spawning and the bass will move in to feed on them. Once the forage has moved away, there is little reason for the bass to be there.

The cover you're fishing makes all the difference in what equipment would be ideal. Personal preference should also be considered along with the bait being used. The set-up you described is adequate for flipping pockets or edges of vegetation with, say, a T-rig, but if you're flipping into heavy vegetation or dense brush/wood where you need to get the fish up and out, you'll need to go up in line size at the least. Some baits because of the diameter of the hook(s), make it necessary also. Unless you feel the fish are controlling the fight, a MH rod is all that is needed. A heavy action rod will give you more control, but reduces the 'fun' factor. That's why most tournament anglers use heavy action rods, the important thing to them is getting the fish in and doing it quickly. My favorite rod for pitching and flipping is a 7'6" MH fast action rod paired with 60lb. braid on a baitcaster. I don't loose many fish and I still enjoy the fight.

I don't think anyone is overthinking, just trying to help. The simple answer to your original post was/ is; there are times when working uphill will produce and the direction of the retrieve has little bearing on whether or not you hang up, the style of the jig does.

I use both and there is a big difference in weight. The Ol Monster is heavier and there are times when I prefer it. Don't ask me when those times are because there's no way I could tell you.

I could lie and say I get out my spinning rod and drop shot a French fry worm, but I would have already tried that. It would take about five hours of hard fishing fire me to even consider a drop shot, so I'd likely tie up to a dock and take a nap on the deck.

I've caught bass on a variety of Muskie lures the largest was likely a tripe blade in-line buzzbait maybe 12in. long.

I prefer to work shallow to deep when I'm searching. In this situation that would translate to top to bottom. This allows me to presently offering to a larger number of active or neutral fish as opposed to working deep to shallow. The more active bass using submerge the weeds won't be buried in them, but on the edges. Inside outside and topside. Along with some of the other suggestions, I'd recommend a T-rig weightless worm. One with some salt in it. It will fall slowly down to the top of the weeds, but not penetrate them.

Seeing as we are sharing about our Mentors, Why not share who's your daddy. What's the one thing that always kicks your butt when it comes to bass fishing? Work? Family? Other commitments? Or is it something fishing related like cold fronts, crystal clear water, fluctuating water, etc?. For me, it's lack of current. When the power plant lakes by me either shut down their operation, or just quit pumping I have such a difficult time putting together a pattern that I've all but abandoned them for more distant water.

I don't use mono for crankbaits anymore, but when I did, it was Original Stren. I still have maybe 150yrds. left on a bulk spool that I use mainly for my topwater reel and leaders for my C-rigs.