papajoe222

Texas rigging a tube would be my choice for the pond as an internal jig gives the tube a spiraling fall and between that and the location of the line tie, you'll be bringing back weeds more often than not. On the other hand, the internal jig is a great option for the reservoir as that spiral action is what makes tubes a great choice for a soft plastic.

I'm a graduate of the school of 'Show Them Something Different' and quickly working a jerk bait in the fall is something guys in my neck of the woods don't do often. Soft or hard, I find them to be excellent producers until the water temp. drops below 50. I know I'm not the only one, but I thought I'd give the rest of you a heads up on a productive bait for the fall.

My recommendation is just the opposite of what everyone has told you (fish slow). I rely on cranks, spinnerbaits and fast moving topwaters when the water temp. drops under 70 until it gets into the low/middle 50's. If your best times are around sunrise and sunset (low light), you need to look at changing your tactics during those 'off times.' Not necessarily the baits you're using, but your presentation. The fish will still relate to cover and structure, but will hold tighter to them during the 'bright light' hours and you need to adjust accordingly.

If I'm able to choose a time, I prefer afternoon. More for light penetration because of the sun's angle than for the little effect it has on water temp. More reflection off my baits makes a difference in how many fish can see them and I believe that's a big benefit this time of year.

So what's the full title of this movie Signs you guys are talking about? I did a search on Netflix and came up with nada.

There are two ways that I attack fishing clear water. One is with fast/irratically moving baits and the other is with smaller, slow presentations. I lean on soft plastics almost exclusively. Curly tail grubs on a jig head and Flukes worked quickly should get some response presented above or along the sides of cover. Spinnerbaits with smaller willow blades and cranks with narrow lips can be worked fast also. Fish that show interest, but don't take those types of presentations will often times go for something slower or smaller. A Fluke can do double duty here, but keep some stick worms (Senkos) handy and don't forget wacky rigging when all else fails.

That is the wife's favorite. Big Trouble, though not what I'd call a horror movie, is a great flick. Think I'll wach it again.

Jeepers Creepers. Spooked me big time.

My guess is that they've always been there, but the presence of other predatory fish, scarcity and competition of and for the size and type of forage that is available has kept their numbers minimal. Those that survive do so by avoiding the areas where you likely fish for those other species and that could be the reason for the lack of your paths crossing.

thanks mike

I'm with you on the in-line spinners as being underrated. Those and beetle spins. Not what I'd consider a big fish baits, but when it comes to numbers those are the two 'hard' baits that come to mind.

If you're looking to replace fluoro with a braided line, you don't need one that sinks. Line visibility is the only benefit fluoro offers to those applications and many prefer using it as leader material with braided line.

I don't know of any sinking braided lines, but I am curious as to why you're looking for one. Is there a specific application that you feel needs a sinking line?

The trend in rods has been to longer ones. Although they can be a problem when bank fishing, they offer longer casts and more leverage when control of the fish is a concern. The difference between Med. and M/H power within the same series of rods can be a big one. It has more to do with what the rod can reasonably handle as far as baits, line, and size of fish than the action which is what the fast, ex-fast, moderate refer to. Older two piece rods had much more of a dead or flat spot at the junction. Those on the market today transition much better at the junction.

I basically use many of the same baits I use during pre-spawn, but I tend to go bigger. Spinnerbaits with a single, large willow blade. Big, fat bodied cranks and jigs with big trailers. I work them faster than in the spring and I concentrate more on the forage than on areas leading to the spawning sites although many times they are the same.

I'm with WRB on this. If it was a lake I'm familiar with I might opt for a drop shot, but you can waste a lot of time doing so. A jigging spoon or stroking a jig are great reaction presentations and a swimbait on a1/2oz. jig head or a spinnerbait slow rolled, will cover a lot of water in a short period of time. Tough presentations to master during a tourney though.

If you catch an aggressive bass on one cast and get a bump or hit on another, it's likely because the fish you caught was hitting the fast moving lure as you went to take it out and the bumps you came up empty on were from the slower way you were presenting the lure. This is the perfect example of the fish 'telling' you they want a fast moving presentation, or at the least one with bursts of speed.

Peg that sinker when you T-rig and you can throw just about any soft plastic.

Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner I keep a 24in wire leader in my box just for that purpose. Used it twice this season already, both times on spinnerbait hooks. FYI, place the line, leader, or whatever across the bend of the hook. Press down on the eye or shank of the hook and hold the other end of the loop (in this case the two rings). With a quick pop of the wrist, the hook will back itself out. There is a video here somewhere showing how.

80% of the time I use a baitcaster for my tube fishing, but I rarely throw a tube that isn't at least 3.75in. or larger. Between the weight of the jig and the tube, I don't have issues with using baitcasters. The rod you use is more of a factor than the type of reel.

No need for a reel geared lower than 6.1:1 for fall cranking as you won't be deep cranking. A good cranking rod will be longer for longer cast and have a moderate tip for both distance casting and fighting the fish. I recommend starting with three baits from the same line (DT's or SK series) in different running depths. Most cranks deflect well, so don't concern yourself with the different lip designs. Get to know those baits.Concentrate on getting to know how they feel when retrieving and what different cover feels like when they contact it. You should be able to feel the lure vibration. Pick the running depth of the lure you choose on the depth of the water you're targeting and shoot for one that runs deeper so it will contact bottom or cover. If you can't get the lure to deflect of something, change up speeds frequently, or pop the rod tip.

Personally, I prefer 1/2oz. as it's easier to pitch that weight. I adjust the fall rate by the trailer I use. For flipping, i think a 3/8oz. does the job adequately

I still haven't gotten on board the bladed jig train as I tinker with my spinnerbaits when need be. They come through the vegetation around here much better. I have a few and will break them out now and then only to return them to the box. I will break them out again when I head out to some bigger, man made lakes where they should shine.

BPS MicroLite. I've had mine for a while now and although the Berkly Cherrywood I had previously isn't a fair comparison, it's a great trout and crappie rod. I'm talking the IM6 version that's only available at the store.

Cordell sells a couple of inexpensive prop baits that've been catching bass for years. The Boy Howdy and a smaller bait that I believe is called a Crazy Shad.