papajoe222

Based solely on your initial criteria, I'd go with the High Mod series blank as long as the cost factor is within your budget. it's right in the middle on both weight and line ratings.It's also the only Med. power one you listed. The Mag Taper blank is beefier and is likely perceived as having more backbone, but I'm not sure where it lies as far as power.

I know the basic rigging of the rig, I'm just not sure how to work it in thick, non-emergent weeds. Do you cast, let it settle in the weeds and then shake it to work it down? When casting to matted weeds, do you lob cast so the rig literally punches it's way through? I would love to get a bait down to the base of the weeds and not just present one on top of them.

That is the advantage of using a stronger main line, the leader will break before it does. The other advantage is line visibility. A leader added to braid, whether fluorocarbon, mono, or copolymer, is less visible than the braid. As far as your breakage issue with braid; Where is the line breaking? One reason I use braid is so I DON'T loose baits. Braid does frey and in the lower lb. tests that can be a big concern.

I would think the 25 would be better suited to that rod, but then again I don't think it's available in 6.2

Two things I would attempt if looking for more bites; Check out some deep cover and look for a spot having more than just pads. It's doubtful that all the bass would be in the pads and deep would be the first thing I'd check out. The addition of another form of weeds, or other cover in addition to the pads could be the honey spot. Awesome pic. I just may steal it for my wallpaper.

The first reel I ever paid for was a Mitchell 300. Prior to that, I used my dad's hand me down. It failed me the first time I ever caught a smallie and I promised I'd only buy quality gear from then on. I just recently got back into using a spinning set-up, and although I won't spend near as much as I do on a BC, quality is still upper most in what I decide to buy.

I've always backed off the drag on my reels at the end of the day, even if I plan on fishing the next day. I reset them the next time out, likely a lot looser than most, but then I drop my thumb on the spool when setting the hook, or if I feel I need to when fighting a fish.

What brand/ size hooks do you use when T-rigging a 3.5 in. tube? A 3/0 wide gap Gammy works fine for my 4in. tubes, but is too long for both the 3.5 & 3.75in. ones as the hook's bend extends past the body.

Welcome to the site and sorry to hear about your loss. You can check out our fishing flea market in the forums drop down, guys are always listing gear to sell or trade and you can also put up a request for particular items. Good luck and get out there and make us northerners wish we lived next door.

An Arkie style jig Is what I prefer when fishing timber and the type rattle you described could have a barb on the upside toward the hook bend. It's purpose is to keep the trailer from slipping down to the bend, but they don't leave much room between that barb and where the rattle chamber attaches.

Likely a buck-tail jig tipped with a minnow. It'll likely happen while walleye fishing. When actually targeting bass, a tube jig.

Spence Petros. I had a chance to do just that 30yrs. ago, but there was a death in the family and I had to cancel. The man is a fountain of information, not just on bass fishing but fishing in general. Many an angler has learned important lessons from mentors such as him, sadly the only ones I did were from his informative articles.

I keep a 20in. leader in my first aid kit for those times I need to use the above hook removal technique. I just clip it back to itself to form a loop and put my hand through it. I takes up a little more room than a loop of 80lb. braid, but it's easier to find when I'm in panic mode.

The only time I ever heard the phrase was on a charter. The result was that everyone on that side of the boat brought their lines in to avoid tangling.

Can't be, he gave me his Old Timer back in '56. I haven't carried it since before Nam. I either have a Kershaw or Spiderco in my pocket, so I don't bring a knife with me specifically for fishing. I gave my headlamp away because I had to tilt my head down for it to illuminate what I was doing and I wear bi-foals. I keep a pen light clipped to my shirt pocket and hold it in my mouth.

I rely on first hand reports from a local. I keep the email addresses of one or more in a 'local anglers' file and will contact them for reports on conditions (including ice-out). Boat ramps are the best places to get them, especially if there is a line of guys waiting to launch.

Dave just gave you an example of one of the benifits a big body of water offers. As to when that first movement takes place, it differs from region to region and lake to lake. That movement is what's called pre-spawn. A rise in water temp. of four or five degrees can start some fish moving and the angle of the sun as the days get longer is also a contributing factor. The two factors that you NEED to know are where the fish winter and where they spawn. The movement up to the spawning area is a migration route. If you can determine that route, finding fish (and catching them) becomes easier. BTW, that 'route' will be used by many of the fish during the post-spawn period and if that spawning flat doubles as a feeding flat during the summer, some fish will also use it to migrate to the shallows to feed on a daily basis. The pre-spawn movement can take weeks on a lake that is slow to warm, or much less on smaller bodies of water like a pond.

The only reason I can see for adding an additional coat woul be that you feel you may have missed an area, as once it is dry it keeps moisture out.

Cheer up guys and take solace in the fact that someone is always worse off. I haven't wet a line since Oct. and if I have to go in for another surgery, I could miss the opening of our power plant lakes in five weeks. Now I just need to find that poor soul that is worse off than I am.

Fifteen or so, mostly older Stanley's. I only replace them when one breaks. I change out blades, and I've shortened the arms on a couple. I have another half dozen made specifically for pike fishing.

When I'd be after a 'kicker', I only used two baits; a jig with a big craw trailer, or a buzz bait. With the buzzer, I could cover a flat with cover fairly quickly and then slow down and pick the cover apart. The rods were identical 7' Med. All Stars with TD Advantage 150H reels spooled with 30lb. braid. FYI, except for some pre-spawn tournaments, the majority of my kicker fish came on a buzzer.

I recently sold my last two; Both were BPS Bionic Blades. I loved fishing Spooks and most top-waters with them because of casting accuracy and the handle never got in the way. Most guys now will work a walking bait with the rod handle up out of the way, so handle length is moot. Whenever I hooked into a big girl, I'd end up putting my cranking hand on the rod above the seat when working the fish in because I couldn't take the strain on my wrist. I just tuck the handle under my forearm now.

I've been using a Daiwa Sol for years for all kinds of finesse presentations, from weightless worms to crappie cranks. Prior to that I used an old Pro Caster. The rod used has so much more to do with it than the reel.

Prior to swivel hooks, a number of pros would tie braid to a swivel and then add a mono or fluoro drop line from it to reduce line twist. It's still a good option if you feel the swivels on the hook to be spooking fish (I don't). Just tie your hook using a palomar knot somewhere down from the swivel and add your weight. If you need to break off, you will only be out a hook, sinker and a bit of line.

Lucky13. I've even set my beloved Spook down to attempt to catch a fish on one when the 'bite' was on. No matter how I retrieve it, I've yet to get even a swirl let alone a blow up.