papajoe222

If you're fairly confident you can find the spot AND you really want to retrieve it, go for it. If the water is only 3ft. deep, you can use a garden rake to scour the bottom. I retrieved one of my favorite combos that way a week after I lost my grip on it while casting.

My 580Gs don't have the G on the lens, just 580. I'd send them back and contact the seller and inform him why you're returning them

I have a pair of Costas, Oakley, and Wiley X all polarized. The Oakleys are for driving and the Costas and Wiley Xs are for fishing. The Costa 580G are my favorites,mainly because I have color perception problems, but on a sunny day the Wiley Xs do a great job. They will scratch a lot easier than the glass lenses, but if you do a lot of high speed running from spot to spot, I'd trust my eyes to them.

I don't have a favorite brand of tubes. I match the thickness of the tube, along with how I rig it, to the conditions. I prefer an internal weight, be it jig or tube weight, mainly because they don't inhibit the tube's inherent action. That factor isn't important when dragging a tube or flipping, but I do both with internal weights. You can even rig a tube weedless on a jig head. A tube's action occurs on the fall, so that (vertical) is the type of presentation I suggest you start with. Like most any soft plastics, they can be rigged and used differently in many situations. I'm not suggesting you only use them for a vertical one, just start there. Use the lightest weight you feel comfortable with. More so than many soft plastics, you need to be a line watcher. Let it fall on slack line and count it down. Don't hesitate when setting the hook, the fish will swallow a tube quickly because it's compact and soft. One last thing, Glenn has a video on here about tubes. It's well worth your time to find and watch it.

share the secret, I gave up just after the site upgrade.

This happened back in the mid 90's on Table Rock. I'd found a small point with a lone stump about half way up a good size creek arm. I figured since it (the point) wasn't on a map that it didn't receive much pressure and that lone stump was a dream come true. I was using a new, low profile reel on my favorite worming rod and had spooled it with 10lb. Stren. I cast past the stump and worked the worm until it bumped the stump and then I just let it sit. The line barely moved, but I knew a fish had taken it. I did my normal hook set and thought I'd hooked the stump until my line took off. I knew it was a big girl and tried to wear her down. About ten feet from the boat, she came up and toward me opening her mouth that I swear I could fit my fist inside a boxing glove into. The only problem was my T-Rig was flying out of that monster mouth and straight at me. That fish just had just clamped her big mouth shut on my worm. There were bite marks on it, but the hook point never exited the worm. I bought into the Tru-Turn hook hype after that.

I can't offer any suggestions, but I have a very good idea what is at the root of the problem; the natural forage base of perch and sunfish has been over harvested due to the high creel limits. As a result, the pike are looking elsewhere. The fishing season, by you, opens late to afford the pike, Muskie, and walleye the opportunity to spawn. The sunfish, and the bass don't spawn until after the season opens and a majority of bass anglers practice catch and release. What you're experiencing is the result of decades of unchanging controls.

If I might inquire; How proficient are you at fishing jigs and T-rigs? A shakey head is, after all, a jig and a great way to learn and gain confidence in fishing jigs. If jigs are one of your strengths, learning to drop shot will add another type of presentation to your bag of tricks. For a beginner that really wants to learn, I'd suggest the jig. For someone that is more interested in just catching, I'd say drop shot.

I just built a rod specifically for 1/8 & 3/16oz. tube fishing. It's a 7ft. Med power, fast action. For river fishing, I'd recommend a rod that's a little shorter, but the same power and tip. Check out walleye rods at your local shop, there are quite a few built on those specs at moderate prices. Look for something with a rating that has 1/8oz. at the low end. Between the tube and the jig head, you don't want a rod that maxes out at 1/4oz. plus there will be times when you'll need to go heavier because of a stronger current.

When you say 'blade bait' are you referring to a bladed jig or the lure?

I don't see why your buddy considers regular drop shot hooks weak, after all it is for the most part a finesse presentation. If line twist proves to be a problem for you, a spin shot hook is a great way to go.

I'm an avid user of mono, so it's so called stretch is of no concern to me. It sounds to me as though this line is going to give me an alternative to braid for my single hook applications and it will also give me another option with many of the treble hooked ones as well luckily, on many of my reels the spools are interchangeable and I can keep one spooled with it. Thanks for all the replies.

I was thinking that there shouldn't be a lot of stretch to it and that would make it a decent choice for single hook applications. Would using it to get cranks to run shallower affect their action too much?

I've never used mono heavier than 12lb. In a Christmas grab bag I got a spool of 20lb. GrandSlam Mono. Other than use as a leader for C-rigs, I have no idea what to use it for. I was thinking topwater, but I'm sure it would limit the lure's action. Suggestions?

Check out bulk treble hooks on eBay, or Amazon, unless your local WalMart carries bulk packages.

Along with sky and water clarity, I'll check the weather pattern for a few days prior. That factor is kind of a given if fishing the local lake, but because one of my favorite lakes is a two hour drive. Water temp. Is something I take into consideration once I get on the water, same with the wind.

I keep the majority in the original bags and keep the ones I'll be using in a Flambeau 1/2 satchel. The few I keep in boxes are hollow body swim baits (the pkgs. are too bulky) and toads.

I keep the majority of mine in a Flambeau box with their Z-Rust dividers Some technique specific hooks I keep in the package, but put it in a box with the baits.

I retired my Daiwa Procaster PMF1000 a couple of seasons ago, it was my first low profile baitcaster. However, I still use my procaster PMA10 which has the thumb bar. I can't remember how old it is.

If you decide not to go with the kit, give the good folks there a call. They can walk you through all the components so that it doesn't become a guessing game. For your first build, I would recommend the kit as all the components are already matched to the blank. The only things you may want to change or add would be cosmetic.

My choice of bait style begins with the water's surface. If it's calm, I go with something that doesn't make much commotion. The more surface turbulence, the more I want the lure to disturb it. The only bait I'll throw under any condition is a buzzbait, but if it's really choppy, I'll go with a double blade.

I like round bend hooks for most baits with lipless cranks being the exception. They get Triple Grips. Check sites that offer bulk quantities. Purchasing individual packs can get pricey when replacing a lot of hooks. You may also want to consider replacing the split rings while you're at it.

It also depends on what size tube. Although creeks tend to be shallow, they can also have a lot of current. You want a weight heavy enough to get the tube down and keep it from tumbling down current.

Berkley Havoc Bottom Hopper is a stand out (and up)

I've used everything from Rapalas to 12in. worms, but when it comes to soft plastics, I prefer a bait with no salt as it tends to stay off the bottom longer. Havoc has a diverse line of no salt baits.