papajoe222

The near zero stretch of fluoro is a misconception. Both mono and fluoro will 'stretch'. The big difference there is that mono will return to its original configuration.

It looks sick. Not just the stomach, but its entire body, looks malnutritioned. Spawning does take its toll on females, but I've never seen it that drastic.

I know this sounds obvious , but I'd suggest something that either imitates a crawfish and stays on or near the bottom, either solid red or a combo of brown and red. I do have a question for you: What did you catch those fish with? Venturing a guess, I'd say a dark colored bottom contact bait. The same or similar type bait with red in the color scheme may get you an extra fish on your next outing.

Try a weightless plastic on a light wire hook. Fish it on mono and you should be able to keep t on top of the weeds. You can dead stick it, hop it off and let it settle back atop them, or slowly drag it. Go with something without appendages and a lot of salt like a tube or gjelly worm. It's also a great way to fish submerged vegetation anytime you're presented with it.

About the only time I consider changing colors of a bait is when I'm on fish and the bite dies off. You can pick up a few extra that way. If I'm confident that I'm on fish and they aren't responding, I normally will move on.

I'm sure you are aware that different retrieves work at different times. In general, I've found that a steadier retrieve works better in the spring, a stop and go ( including ripping it out of vegetation) during the summer and yo-yo or stroking better in the fall-winter. I choose the bait accordingly. A trap, hot spot and red eye shad

Sounds like you may be missing the spool tension spacer. Without it, despite tightening down on the knob, no tension is placed on the spool shaft. Check the schematic against what you find under the cap. If everything is there, send it off to DVT.

I'll switch up for the purpose of covering different depths on a spot and then repeat the process from a different angle. The only time I switch up say a mid-running crank is when I catch a couple on the tail treble. That tells me, I'm at the right depth and have a good presentation speed, but they will likely hit something a little different with more authority.

The regular Lindy sinkers that free slide on the line and their No-Snag sinkers (which will occasionally snag) are what I use for trolling. If you loose a lot of sinkers, you may want to use a three-way swivel and attach the weight with lighter line. You may loose the sinker, but you'll still bring back the main part of the rig. Reattaching another sinker is quick and you're right back at it while your partner hasn't missed a beat.

See what old age does to you? To answer the question; They didn't have those when I was a teen, so give me the above two choices.

The crazy glue will melt the styrofoam. Try Gorilla Glue, the one that you add water to activate, but remember that it expands.

It's likely the gears meshing together. Back off the drag, press down on the spool with your thumb and turn the handle. If the vibration stops, it's the gears.

You said you just respooled. My guess is your reel was in the trunk of your car on the drive there and the outside temp. was somewhere in the 40's or lower. Cold temps will inhibit uncoiling. That is why ice fishermen use light line. Take the reel off your rod and bring it in the house for a while. Then go out and make a couple of casts. That could be what is happening.

Check the hook on the spinnerbait you'll be using. The thicker the diameter, the heavier the line you'll want to use. I wouldn't go less than 12lb. regardless.

I can't speak for any one other than Yo-Zuri Hybrid (Fluorocarbon/Nylon) as it's the only one I've ever used. I'm very happy with it, so I see no reason to try anything else.

That's a tough one. The first thing I'd do is switch it out to the rod you have the other Smoke on and see if it still does it. I'm assuming you only feel it when you're actually casting a lure. My suspicion is either a nicked or dirty rod/reel guide.

I've seen the SureSet hooks on the DT series. You may want to switch the belly hook to the SureSet, however, unless you're fishing vegetation. Great buy, even if you end up spending a few cents by replacing the rear treble.

Like they said and I recommend mono, because it retains more of it's rated break strength than fluoro when nicked. Trust me, if you're fishing shell beds or rip-rap, you'll be getting nicks in that leader so keep checking it. You won't be loosing anything in the way of sensitivity unless you go extra long with your leader.

As for gear, I recommend a M/H rod if using mono or fluoro (12lb.+). Go to a Med. power if you'll be using braid. Mod.Fast for both if it's rated for both power and action. Pre-spawn is the only time I use a trailer and most often it's a Kalin's grub behind a Colorado spinnerbait. I will use a trailer hook 90% of the time after the spawn, The only time I don't is when they're taking it deep. If I'm fishing grass, I like the ones with the line tie dipped in plastic. It keeps the hook from swinging freely behind the bait.

My vote goes to a flat sided balsa bait 2-3in. in length.

One thing you may be doing is using the wrong tool at the wrong time, or in the wrong location. Spinnerbaits shine as a reaction bait and as such are a poor choice in many situations, which can be said for most lures. Like any lure, you need to put it where the fish are. Many anglers when starting out with spinnerbaits will cast them out and wind them straight back. This will keep it up high in the water column, often within sight. That's fine if the fish are active there ( think late pre-spawn), if they aren't, you're just churning water. If you were fishing a shallow running crank with no success, wouldn't you consider switching to a deeper running one if it didn't produce? Just as with Crankbaits, a steady retrieve will catch an occasional fish, but it's the erratic action of bouncing off of something or using a stop and go retrieve that will get you bit much more often. The same thing applies to spinnerbaits. My advice to gaining some confidence in them it to hold off using them until late pre-spawn and then pick an overcast or breezy day. Start working it shallow and then down the water column. They're only as versatile as you make them.

The system I've always used uses the rod as the reference, not the line. I feel the drag should start slipping just prior to the rod loading up completely. This will not only avoid line breakage, but rod damage as well. It is very similar to how the OP described how he is doing it. The drawback to the system comes if using line lighter than the rod is rated for, it will break before the rod loads up.

Longer rods tend to be tip heavy, but adding weight to the butt increases the overall weight. If balance is more important than the actual weight of the combo. The farther behind the grip the less weight it will take to balance, so if you decide to add weight, the butt is the place to do it. The only reason I mention this is I had someone that was unhappy with a 7'3" build I'd done for him that purchased a larger reel in an attempt to balance things out. It added 3oz. to the total weight and he was even less thrilled with it then.

I feel your pain. I spent hours scouting the bottom both from my boat and in the water. luckily I was casting a crank when it slipped out of my hand . Finding that Balsa B led me to the rod. Here' wishing you the best at recovering yours.

The only drawback to using them is getting caught switching lures when it's raining. Too much moisture and they turn to slime. I switched to the Z-Rust tabs.