papajoe222

Throughout the main fishing season up here, I'm on the water three or four times a week. That hasn't changed much in the last ten years. What has changed is the amount of time I'm actually on the water. My outings have gotten shorter, so I'm actually spending the equivalent of one less day compared to gen years ago.

Two quick suggestions for the baits you mentioned. First; Peg the sinker on your T-Rig and second; Go lighter with the bullet/jig weight. The pegged sinker won't separate from your plastic bait and catch the weeds between and a lighter weight won't bog down as you drag it along a soft bottom. Opt for a straight or paddle tail vs. a ribbon or G-tail worm and a swim jig works much better through vegetation than a football or Arkie head does. Oh yea, adding an oil based 'attractant' to the bait will help it slide through the grass.

Right on the money if what you consider deep 15ft. or more. You didn't say how large the pond is, or how deep. Big baits, plastics included, are a great option,deep, in the summer and early in the fall before the water cools considerably. Once the fall bite is on, the larger size is less of a factor IMO, as the big gals will be on the move more now. They just don't move as far from their summer home as the majority do. Matching the size of the main forage and offering it in a way that draws attention is the way to go. Upping the blade size of a spinnerbait slightly, or going a 1/4oz. heavier on a lipless crank can accomplish that, but going from a 6in. to a 10in. worm isn't going to make a noteable difference. If you know where their summer location is, look for the first break up from that area. If the baitfish pass there, that's where momma's dinner table will be set up.

I'm guessing, based on your location and the shore in the pic, that this lake has been drawn down a bit and normally your choice of presentations should have resulted in some hook-ups if the fish were using the cove. My guess is there wasn't enough of a baitfish presence for the cove to have any significant population of bass holding there. Are there other areas where there is vegetation along with deep water access? They would be the areas I'd be looking at. If not and you intend to find fish in this cove, look for changes in the bottom contour which may be indicated by the line where the trees end or are totally submerged and then look for where that change in depth makes a turn. Start at the bottom and work your way up the water column with both reaction and finesse presentations. It's a lot of work, but I can't think of another way to eliminate an area.

I fish an arkie head jig a majority of the time and the trailers I use the most are the ones that affect the fall rate. I use chunk style ones mainly for cold water presentations when I trim the skirt for a small profile. This is also a great finesse bait option. As the water warms, I'll go to something with more action like a Kalin's grub that won't affect the fall rate much. Once the spawn is over, it's a RageTail or PacaCraw when I want a slower fall or a beaver style for a faster one. Now swim jigs are a whole different animal.

I've had problems in the past with jig hooks getting surface rust on them. The skirts seem to hold unseen moisture and in less than a week, I'd see rust forming. A little light sanding with some fine grit got rid of the rust with no ill effect and the addition of some Flambeau Zerust tabs has solved any further issues.

I'm in the minority here as a stick worm is the only plastic I wacky rig. 4in. to 8in. I feel if wacky rigging is going to work, my best option is with a worm with plenty of wiggle on the fall and I don't think there is a better wiggle than on a 6in. Senko. I even take it one step further. This is the only way I rig one. I know and have fished with guys that T-rig, C-rig, drop-shot and any number of other ways with them, but I just have more confidence with other plastics for those presentations.

Don't let yourself be fooled just because that fish swam off. Odds are that fish went belly up in no time. Two minutes is the longest I'd ever keep a bass out of the water. If it's going to take longer, I'll cut the line and let the fish rest in the live well before I attempt to remove the hook again. That being said, I can't recall it ever taking more time than that.

Other than a WoodChopper that I've had for years, all of my double prop baits are hand made versions. I'm of the same mind as Tom when it comes to how to work them. There are other baits I'll use when I need to slow down, or give them something more subtle. They really shine when ripped at a 2 pause,1 pause cadence for me. I don't move them far, maybe 8-10in. and rarely use them when there isn't a good ripple on the water's surface. One thing I do with most topwarters is either cast past a target and then work the lure to it, or if casting past a target isn't an option I'll let the bait sit for a while after it lands. I've seen a lot of fellow competitors lay down a nice cast inches from a stick-up or shore and kick it into high gear immediately.

Nice job. Low water levels on natural lakes don't seem to have the same affect on fish as a fairly quick draw down does on an inpoundment. Your partner and his dad likely hit the water under tough conditions. Unlike many anglers, I don't rely on finesse tactics, but concentrate on precise placement of my offerings. That, along with a fast,horizontal or vertical presentation may not get me numbers, but the bites I do get are from quality fish. From the looks of it, you guys figured that out.

IMO, yes fish can become conditioned to avoid a bait. It's similar to a bass sucking in a leaf as it falls through the water column (I've witnessed this on numerous occasions). This happens frequently as the leaves start to fall. After the second or third time they reject it, they'll rarely take another leaf. When next fall comes around those same fish will likely react the same way. They don't have the memory from the conditioning like a dog or other animal does. Catch and release a fish and I seriously doubt you'll catch it again that day on the same lure.Go back tomorrow and catch and release the same fish on the same lure and I guarantee if you go back the third day that lure won't get a second look from that fish. Wait a few days and you'll have a good chance of catching it again.

Great fall baits. Not only are they fish catchers, I've found I get more quality fish on them than many other topwaters. I stick to basically black, or white and will add a trailer hook if they respond to a fast retrieve as I use braid. Along with the rivet modification, I like to bend the tip of one blade slightly in or out. It puts the whole blade out of balance when it's running, giving it a different sound and vibration.

Did they release the fish? If not, I would have made two calls and the first wouldn't have been to the DNR. In response to the OP, Yes, I would have and have said something to those littering both the shores and water. If they don't respond there's nothing lost. For me, keeping silent has the same effect as condoning the behavior.

Consider a wheel gun. I carried a 642 on the job for years. Paired with the right holster, it was easily concealed and comfortable for all day carry.

I'm assuming you're using braid in which case, even in 12 ft of water, there is no need for a 'cross their eyes' hook set. As has been mentioned, sweep and reel. For soft plastics, I recommend sweeping the rod upward while reeling. With cranks you'll want to sweep to the side regardless of the line used.

About the only topwater bait I own that hasn't been modified is my only WhopperPlopper. Most get modified before they ever get wet. With buzzbaits, the rivet gets roughed up and crimped down, Spooks get a split ring and a splash of color, or sanded down and clear coated. Prop baits get the blade's hole drilled slightly bigger. Cranks get a splash of orange on the underside, oval split rings and a hook upgrade when I feel it's necessary. Many of my spinnerbaits have had the split ring replaced with a swivel snap for easy blade switching and, like my jigs, they get a skirt trim for use in the spring, or I'll add a Kalin's LunkerGrub. The majority of all these modifications are done during those 'drive me crazy 'cause I can't go fishing' days of hard water.

To all our friends in FL. As hurricane Irma approaches, please take the evacuation recommendation seriously and don't wait too long to do so. Life and limb are more important than any possessions you may leave behind. If Harvey taught us anything, procrastinating can have very serious consequences.

I would do just what you've been doing, try them both and see which one the fish prefer on a given day. Just like worms, sometimes they want a ribbon tail and sometimes a paddle tail. I determine which one to start with by the cover I'm fishing. If I'm punching or working into the weeds, I'll start with the least action. If it's rock, timber, or anything else, an action bait is my starter.

I'm always reminding myself that bass are sight feeders first. IMO the presentation makes color choice more important. If you're targeting submerged vegetation, or brush, especially in shallow water, YES I prefer an orange belly. During pre-spawn it's a killer color. If you're bouncing it off the bottom kicking up silt or gravel, the fish isn't going to see its underside, so NO. I proved that to myself using a clear unpainted crank in gin clear water.. When it was on the bottom, I caught fish. On the dive or upswing, nothing. Got the same results fishing it in timber, nothing.

If you're looking to get more distance, there are a couple of things you can do. The first is to bulk up your offering. By adding weight, the spool will start up easier. Second, make sure your spool is full. Third, don't try to pitch long distances. Pitching is a close quarters technique. If you're looking for a good, quiet entry approach for more than 30ft. or so, try learning to roll cast. (with a little modification you can use it to skip).

I'd start with basic colors. Depending on the type of forage available, a shad or minnow imitation and a craw color unless the main forage is blue herring, or perch, or something else that is more color specific. In the DT series, the silver or grey shiner are a good place to start and the brown craw is a great color for dredging the bottom.

I can't say for sure where they'd be holding, but I can guarantee that wherever they are, they're using that channel to get to and from there. Unless there is structure, or cover for the bait fish to use I'd concentrate on the edges of the channel, especially if there are any turns in it. BTW, what is the main forage of the pond? If you know what it is and can figure out what they'd be doing as the water cools, the bass won't be far off.

I only fish a JitterBug at night. I've used both and really can't say one was better than the other. If you're using them during the day, the fish might prefer one over the other. I use a muskie size that I modified by removing the side hook hangers and adding a single one to the belly. Makes a lot of noise and moves a lot of water. Did I mention that I've caught some big girls on it?

Mono, like braid, is a good, all around choice for just about any presentation. Not the best choice for some techniques, but no line is. Fluoro has it's strong points, but falls short for topwater, or for use with C-rigs. Mono supposedly stretches more than fluoro and that makes it a poor choice for many soft plastic presentations. I fished tournaments back in the day when all there was available was mono. We caught plenty of fish.

A #9 Rapala original floater. That one lure got me through some very lean college years and is likely responsible for what's left of my sanity. I retired it 45 years ago.