papajoe222

A good braid in the 30lb. test range will work for all treble hook applications. If you’re concerned about tearing hooks out of the fishes mouth, you’re over powering the fish when fighting it. Set your drag correctly and use the rod to bring them in by pumping it up and reeling in the slack when you drop it back down. If you don’t think you can transition to doing that, Go with a quality hybrid like Yozuri. It isn’t the best choice for top waters if you’re working them slow, but will get the job done on most if you work them with your rod tip up.

The only area I see that may be a possible spawning area( depending on how big to is) would be that hump on the NW side that the road bed passes over. If the waters fairly clear and there’s a lack of traditional spawning flats.

If I knew a little more about how you plan to use it, I might be able to help you out. If you do a lot of punching heavy, matted vegetation, you might lean toward the heavy action Dobyns. if you mainly pitch, flip, or skip it'd likely be too much rod. I, personally, punch with a rod i built on a MH/F 7'3" Forecast blank that I cut down three inches. I use it for everything but football jigs.

Welcome to the forums. A spinnerbait has much more versatility than a crank in that it can be presented throughout the water column. Any individual crank is limited to basically one depth range. If you're fishing from shore, or some unknown part of the lake, you can start fishing the spinner up high, through the mid depths, or on the bottom. One downside is that you'll have is retrieving it at a constant depth, especially when first using them. When you catch a fish, you want to be able to repeat what you and the lure were doing. The downside to cranks is that they only run down to one depth and only stay there for part of your retrieve. Another downside for spinnerbaits is the amount of flash they give off. On a sunny, calm day, that flash is a turn off for bass. They both have different triggering qualities and which one to use in any given situation is based more on personal preference/confidence than any perceived plus or minus compared to the other.

If you're just starting out with the C-Rig, I'll make a couple of suggestions that may help. First is your main line choice; Base it on the type of bottom you'll be fishing. I prefer braid for its sensitivity and fluorocarbon for abrasion resistance. Second is the weight; Egg, bullet, needle, Lindy will all work. I prefer tungsten weights when I'm not at risk of loosing them. Third is your leader line; There is no doubt in my mind that a quality mono leader will get you more bites than fluorocarbon. It floats and even when using 6lb. test, the stretch isn't a factor. No, it won't float most soft plastics, but it won't pull them down to the bottom and the beauty of a C-rig is that it presents your bait just off the bottom. Lastly is leader length; Starting out I recommend keeping it short 12in.-18in.as it's easier to cast and detect bites than longer 2ft.-4ft. leaders.

Fishing structure can be accomplished using a variety of baits. However, if that structure is below 15ft. The number of baits that can be used narrows considerably. ’Deep’ is a relative term as it is determined by what depths are available. I mentioned 15ft. For a number of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that a majority of anglers rarely fish below that depth when deeper water is available. A C-Rig isn’t only a deep water presentation, but it is an excellent choice for deep water because it reaches and stays on the bottom without the angler working any harder to do so. In doing so, it transmits a lot of information back to the angler. Lastly, the bait used can be presented on the bottom, or well off of it by adjusting the leader’s length and material. A football jig can do all but the last, although at times it’s a better option. It is best presented when the location of fish is unknown and you need to cover a lot of real estate fairly quickly. It allows you to multi-task and catch fish in the process.

One of our club lakes was like that for years. A ton of fish under 12in. and the normal amount of big fish for the acreage, but no 2lb.-4lb. ones. A study showed that the abundance of small fish depleted the forage base so much that it stunted their growth and the only bigger fish that did survive were using the much smaller bass as forage. They did two things to eliminate those conditions. First they allowed the removal of fish under 12in. while prohibiting removal of any bass over 12in. At the end of the season, they added 400lbs. of minnows. Eight years later there was a good mix of small to large bass and a healthy, Minniow based forage base.

I’ve been slowly filling a box car with reloads for my .223 and making mental notes of southern stops along the rail line. Take heart in the fact that I’m an excellent shot at ranges under 600yrds. And that my only magazine holds four rounds.

Why do I allow myself to be tortured winter after winter? I mean, isn’t the definition of insanity doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results? Why do I force myself to endure four months of not being able to present a lure to my favorite species of fish? It’s either brain damage, or a genetic disorder.. Maybe that genetic disorder is the cause of said brain damage. I have proof that my brain is damaged: I got excited when I realized that the power plant lakes around here will be opening in four weeks. FOUR FRIGGIN MORE WEEKS BEFORE I CAN EVEN CONSIDER HOOKING UP THE BOAT AND HEADING OUT..........AND I’M EXCITED????? Okay,I’ve admitted I have a problem. That’s the first steep. What’s the second step? Removing the obstacle? What if someone figures out what I’ve done with her.? Insanity defense, right? No, wait.....I’d have to plead guilty and that means doing time. More than the four weeks that started my realization. This could take a while to figure out. Luckily I have another bottle of Patr’on and four weeks to find a solution................If your don’t hear from ne in the next 24hrs. Don’t be concerned,I’ve likely just passed out. I’ve heard that helps.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a like new TD Sol. 6.3:1 gears had been installed in it and I not only love the faster gears, but the smoothness of that reel over my other Sols. My question is; Who offers gears for Daiwa reels? I’ve done bearing and drag washer upgrades on many of my Daiwas along with adding swept star drags and carbon fiber handles to a number of my queens, but gear swaps weren’t offered by the companies I dealt with.

You can have a logo phrase, or artwork added to any shirt. I use a local guy that adds players names to the back or front of little league shirts, T’s and hats. It’s inexpensive an is a great alternative to sewing on patches. A couple of bait and tackle shops sell. T’s advertising their business and you can always purchase apparel from any number of companies in the industry.

I replace terminal tackle and lures as the need arises. Rod, reels, boat accessories, I purchase prior to the season opener.

Stanley Vibrashaft and Northlake tackle Reef Runner.

They can be anywhere. That is why you need a system of eliminating areas where they aren’t. By blindly casting any one bait you’ll only be targeting one part of the water column and even if you luck into the right area, your presentation may be wrong for their activity level. Generally speaking, they will gravitate to the warmer water which should be the upper part of the water column. Just after ice out, they will move up from their winter locations rather than toward the shallows, which will occur once there is a steady warming trend. Hope that helps.

I don’t limit myself to any particular bait. I go through basically the same process I do the rest of the season. I keep my bait selection small; blade baits. Jig/pig (pork), suspending cranks and jerkbaits. With that handful, I can target any part of the water column and any activity level the fish may be in.

Congrats on both a job well done and seeing your efforts being recognized.

I use three different jig rods. One for working clean/rocky bottoms. One for fishing timber and one for heavy vegetation. None are extra fast.

I’m partially color blind and until I purchased a pair of 580G’s with green lenses I would have never given an opinion one way or another. Now the only time I don’t wear them is when I’m indoors and even then, many times I’ll leave them on.

I haven’t found one better than my Tracker, at least one I can afford.

This will be no surprise to many, but I prefer a big (5in.+) tube. Lube it up with an oil based scent and you can get below the mat with a smaller weight. There’s plenty of action when it hits bottom, or is banged up against the underside of the mat. You can add an internal rattle, or scent ball. In a word versatile.

Keep a buzz bait tied on. A jig will get you more fish with some big ones mixed in and a swim bait may produce a big girl, but a buzzer will produce more quality fish on a given outing.

Many an angler has started out with one of these three soft plastic baits progressing on to any (or all) of the vast offerings available. Most of the latter fill a specific need for something different, but many are just variations of worms, grubs, or tubes and that just proves how versatile those three are. My only fishing resolution for this upcoming season is to abandon all the new comers, the stick baits, swim baits, craw worms, etc. and limit myself to those three. I’m confident that my catch numbers won’t decline and hopeful that the lack of tackle choices will not only simplify my decision making, but rekindle some of the pleasure derived from angling with artificial baits. The only question that remains is: What do I do with the multitude of other soft plastics I’ve accumulated?.

Not knowing your skills and just going by the information and question you gave; both BPS rods are decent and reliable. The PQ2 being a little heavier. I’ve only broken one rod in the last twenty years and it was a six year old MicroLite. Took it to Bass Pro and they replaced it on the spot. I’d never recommend purchasing a rod without mounting the reel you intend to pair it with and holding it in your hands. I’d find a local SG dealer and spend a few extra bucks to be able to do just that.

I’ve done spool bearing upgrades on almost all my baitcasters. Boca and Hedgehog. IMO, you won’t see a noticeable increase in casting distance vs. clean, lubed stock bearings. Upgrading all a reels bushings with bearings may make it feel smoother, but also won’t result in any noticeable difference. If increased casting distance is your priority, back off the tension knob and brakes. Then get a reputable reel guy to polish the spool shaft and get the gearing and metal drag washers done at the same time. You’ll end up with a reel that performs at its peak and you’ll feel the difference.

Now what you need are pics of those same hooks after considerable use. I have a feeling those would just show to you and us, that sharpening or replacing hooks is a sound practice (if you post them).