MN Fisher

I have a Trion 30 which I use for smaller crank/jerkbaits, weighted T-Rigs (1/4-1/2oz) and jigs under 1/2oz. Solid performer and smooth action.

Are the Cardinals even made anymore? I think the Abu Orra S or Elite Max which are both around $70.

Tree-huggers run rampant.

No, but my wishlist at TW is growing. ?

Happily married for 28 & 1/2 years - it's still a little special. I got her chocolates and she spent the day reading. I spent the day cruising through lures online.

I just checked - wishlist intact from prior to down-time. I can also add to any of my wishlists. This is on a desktop - if you're on the mobile app it might be a little longer.

Under most circumstances, buying the rod and reel separately is the way to go. That's how most of my rigs were set up. Saying that, my Avocet rig was bought as a combo and has done very well for me as my finesse rig. So you can find decent combos, but investigate both pieces to make sure they work well together.

Well, good luck then.

Wait until you have them? Massed vegetation like that is going to snap that FC so much that by the time you catch anything good, you'll have paid for a good, stout combo loaded with braid in lost lures.

Here's one - you need to know the diameter of the lines. Check the line manufacturer's site for that info. http://teameverol.com/online-calculators/

Never mind the cup holders - does it have a massage feature in the main seats...at that price it should.

Minnesota law is more specific "The most common restriction is slow no-wake speed. Slow no-wake means operating your boat at the slowest possible speed necessary to maintain steerage, but in no case greater than five miles-per-hour."

Don't try that in Minnesota...you'll get fined at the least. "Nonmotorized Craft Nonmotorized craft (sailboats, canoes, etc.) have the right-of-way over motorized craft in all situations, except when the nonmotorized craft is overtaking or passing."

Well, I'm in the 'back seat' too...but being as it's a canoe and I'm going solo...?

Distance is not a factor in Bass fishing. I don't think I've ever cast a lure more than 50', and usually less than that. Most of my casts are less than 25', it allows me to 'lure-scan' an area in a shorter amount of time. No taps/bites? Change to a different lure. Tried a lipless crank? Change to a lipped one. Still not getting anything? Change to a jerk. Jerk not working either? Change to a T-Rig. Nothing still? Try a drop-shot or Ned. Still batting zero? Change to a different spot. Repeat as needed.

This also applies to canoe anglers (like me). Can't tell you how many times I was almost swamped by an idiot power boater - fishermen as well as day-cruisers - last year even though I only got out a few times. One of the reasons I put outriggers on my canoe this winter. How hard is it to obey the laws - 40 mph max speed on Minnetonka - or to actually LOOK for something that you might cause issues for? It's these reasons why I try to keep to smaller lakes/bays. Especially one lake where the max motor allowed is 10HP - designated trout lake. With the morons in their overpowered boats zooming along without a care, it's dangerous to go into the main bays of Minnetonka - even if you're wearing a high-visibility PFD, they're not looking.

I use Spectra - but I think any of PP's line would be a safe bet.

I know some will disagree, but I've never had any issues with Power Pro

I don't suffer line twist on my spinners either. Of course I'm a little OCD when it comes to my reels BC - Braid Spin - FC or Mono And never the twain shall meet. I don't use leaders on any of my rigs either.

None close enough to me to fish in I like that they allow canoes to compete. The MN Kayak Fishing Club allows canoe owners to be members...but only Kayaks are allow for their tournaments...seems like a double standard to me.

I ordered both my Aird-X rods through Amazon - but was careful to pick ones that were fulfilled by someone else. Both came in tubes with the tips and handles wrapped in foam. The second one was even $5 off the retail price.

I keep the drag on my spinners set to just a little under the line test I'm using if the max-drag on the reel is higher than the line test - use a digital fish scale to measure. Even if the max drag is lower than the line test, I keep the drag a bit looser as to not 'lock' the line in place - gotta have some play in there. I've also never locked the drag on a BC.

Same here - which is why I went with a canoe. Last year it was the canoe, TM, battery that ate most of my Christmas money from the parents. This year it was the trailer and costs for the modifications I did...still have to get a new length of 2x3 to replace the trailer tongue piece to lengthen it - 14' canoe, 10' trailer as shipped. The only debt I have is my mortgage - everything else I pay cash for. If you can handle being under debt for a boat for the next 10-15-20 years, go for it. I'll happily paddle/power along my lakes knowing that I'm not paying for something that sits idle for 5+ months of the year.

Who picked out those 'cute' sox?

To keep them moving at a decent speed, you're going to be working harder with a 6.3 - have to move the reel handle faster.