Brad in Texas

I fished mine today, a 2500 Stradic Ci4+, with a 7 ft St Croix TRS70MF. But, I didn't use it with my soft jerk baits in the typical manner where you point the rod tip down, standing from a boat deck, and the rod action looks like a dowsing rod pulsing down looking for and finding water. I think this might be part of what Burro is concerned about, the balance issue for that jerk bait technique. Too, I think most of the anglers use a shorter rod so that when they make those downward snaps of the rod tip to "jerk" the bait on its retrieval, it is well above the water line. A too long rod would be tough to use. Maybe a 6'6" or so? I suppose it depends on how you are fishing it, from what platform. One of mine today caught on a St. Croix 5'6" rod, Medium, Fast, 10 lbs. braid to 8 lbs. leader and using a Shimano Nasci reel. Worked pretty good! Short rods work GREAT from kayaks! Brad

Exactly. I overlooked the "basics" since roundness wasn't the real issue nor is the number of strands in braid, just that tensile strengths in objects relate to their cross-sectional areas. It could have been any number of shapes but, man, how often do you get to work pi into a fishing post! But, anyway, using what are essentially round things (our fishing lines), it was just a way of showing that a little bit of extra diameter gets magnified by the squaring of the radius. Brad

You win the prize! A bigger paddle, less strokes, less kinetic energy than the dude with smaller paddle, paddling very fast. Again that squaring thing. Brad

I don't know if this will help, but part of the confusion with tensile strength metrics relates to the fact that there are two formulas at work and . . . at odds with each other a bit. One is the circumference of a line is = 2 * Radius * 3.14 (pi) (so that is the same as diameter * pi). But, the formula for the cross-sectional area is = 3.14 (pi) * r squared. Whenever you see a number in an equation squared (or cubed, etc.) it means it makes an outsized contribution to the result. Well, getting back to that tiny difference the OP mentions in braid diameters (or, of course the radius, too). It is tiny as it relates the the circumference of the line; but, the tiny increment is much more significant in the calculation of area. Why is the cross-sectional area of a line important? The tensile strengths of things like string, line, fishing line, ropes and muscles are proportional to the cross-sectional area. If you double the cross-sectional area, you essentially double the line strength. A line's diameter doesn't have to increase all that much to make such a leap in strength. Hope this helps. Math quiz for those of you not already bored to death with my math primer: If you are paddling a kayak or a canoe and getting a speed of 3 MPH using a larger paddle blade and making less strokes to achieve the speed, then achieve the same speed using a thinner paddle blade but making more strokes, in which case do you burn more energy? The answer, oddly, relates to the same rationale as I mentioned above. Brad P.S. Going fishing in the AM, will answer later!

You just have to be so careful that the finishing knots, that, or any treatments such as super glue, don't end up being larger than the knot itself. I, and I imagine everyone here, likely agree that these half hitch knots do nothing for knot strength, just protect the FG knot a bit. A shock absorber. The trade-off for me is while the FG junction knots last a long time, no doubt, but abrasion issues on the leader itself have always been the "weak link" for me, so I can handle the little fuzzy end as it develops over a day on the water knowing I am going to replace my leader anyway. In certain circumstances with certain length leaders, that little fuzzy braid end makes for a pretty decent "line watching" sighting element to find and focus on especially with lines that aren't bright. Brad

Several more good points about drag effects, rod potential loads for a given line. Regarding casting distance, yes, the lighter the line, the farther it'll generally cast. But, even here we have limitations to consider as optimal distances have a lot to do with what combination (rod, line, lure, etc.) loads up the rod best for a long cast. Just in general, most of us here aren't using really heavy braid lines for maximum distance but for other purposes like hauling a big fish out of heavy cover. The longest casts in competitive bass fishing are likely made by the open water guys, the power anglers . . . like KVD. You could take a look and see what size lines he uses for covering lots of water. Brad

The ratings for most rods and the reels assume monofilament line metrics (diameters), so the 20 lbs. braid you are using should be compared to that range. Berkley Trilene Big Game is .012 at 10 lbs. and your braid is .010 or thereabouts depending on the particular line you have. If anything, you are just a tad too small based on the recommended size ranges. The effects? Using braids too small for casting reels often are accompanied by "on the reel" issues. Using braids too large will diminish casting distances and performance yet work just fine all the way up to 50+ lbs. test strengths for short presentations requiring super strong lines . . . where casting distance is not required. You mention casting so I take it that distance and general performance are key here. If anything, I'd think you'd likely be better with slightly larger braid. 30 might be better than 20. A whole lot will depend on the reel, itself, less so in my opinion on the rod, then even more on the user's skills. Brad

I think I'd be inclined to try a non-finesse version of a Drop Shot, some calling it a Bubba Shot as I recall. Use a large shot, whatever it takes to penetrate the mat, perhaps even an ounce or more. It'll punch the hole and the hook and plastic will be sucked right down behind it . . . sort of like a black hole in space. If the fish are sitting on bottom, make the line down to the shot short; else, make it 12" or thereabouts. It'll take some experimentation. The weight of the shot won't make any difference since the hook and bait are above it. Brad

For sure on the Ikas! I didn't mean to imply these hooks were intended by me for those little "fatty" baits, I was just using it as an example of a plastic well known to be rather thick that I doubt this Mustad would even penetrate from one side to the other. Speaking of Fat Ikas, one of the most memorable days I ever had was fishing with these on a private lake in Oklahoma. I've never duplicated the results . . . but still love Fat Ikas. Like you say, one will need a 4/0 and a EWG type hook. Brad

I decided to try a few packs of these in 3/0 and 4/0 sizes, just general worm hooks for T-Rigs and a few other ideas. Nice hooks, no doubt, and I like the way the keeper works. But, one thing I noticed immediately is that a 4/0 is . . . very small. A 3/0 appears to have the same gape but just a bit shorter overall. No, not "small" so much in their shaft lengths but its gape measurements. A 4/0 in this hook looks almost like a 2/0 in a standard hook of similar type. One thing for certain is I won't be using these hooks for Fat Ikas. Ha! I think what I will do is use it for a larger drop shot presentation (Bubba shot), maybe a skinny worm Texas Rigged. Anyone else notice this size issue? Brad

Good advice here. Note the number of anglers who use a Senko weightless. And, for a very obvious reason that it is the falling sort of shimmering action of these baits that is its primary attraction. To nose weight (say, T-Rig) or otherwise weigh down a Senko (say, a keel weighted hook) means most or all of that particular quality is overridden or neutralized as it dragged down through the water to the bottom. Once on the bottom, I'd personally have a list of several other plastics where I like the action better than a Senko. But, falling? It is in a class with just a few other competitors. Oh! Just in general, if you know that the fish are feeding on the bottom and not somewhere higher in the water column, I think the general consensus is that you want to get your lure down there relatively fast, get to where the action is. You don't want to waste time letting something drift down, shimmering or no, as you are spending too much time where the fish aren't located. Your riggings should reflect this as will things like wind and waves that often require adding weight. Brad

I really like it, and I was just going to ask whether one embeds one of the 3 hooks on one or both of the trebles into the lure's flesh. Pretty cool! I think I see this as more for open water but also water close to calling fish out from, say, a cast made close to a long line of vegetation. it'll have flash and vibration both to trigger action. If a fish flashes at one of these just to bump it, it's going to get hooked up even if it didn't intend to eat it. Regarding whether one can bounce this off of things like other lures designed for that. Time will tell. I'm looking forward to your report after a few times out to tell us how you dialed it all in, how you find it best used. Brad

Gosh, I can't even imagine using over 10 lbs. braid mainline if you mean spinning tackle. Most use either a 6 or 8 lbs. fluorocarbon leader attached to it. It is not just about casting distance, it has to do with the intended way spinning tackle is fished opposed to casting gear. If you are letting your rod do the work, only reeling down on line, and more, have your drag set correctly or are proficient at back-reeling, 10 is all you need, certainly for finesse drop shots and Ned Rigs. Speaking of color, the one I have used and can see very well is Sufix 832 in the yellow color. You asked about smaller braids. The best I have ever used is Sufix Nanobraid (not to be confused with another line, Berkley Nanofil). I have landed up to 4 lbs. LMBs and about the same size catfish (while panfishing) with it in 2 lbs. test. They make it up to 14 lbs. and the 14 has about the same diameter as 10 lbs. Sufix 832. Unfortunately, if you want color, Nanobraid doesn't come in any bright choices. But, it is a great line for finesse stuff. Brad

The odd part is you are an experienced angler, no knot issues heretofore, but then all of a sudden this happens. I wonder if it is possible that you have some sort of burr on your jigs, like you bought several of them and they have a sharp edge that is catching your line? One thing happened to me the other day; no, it didn't lead to me breaking off . . . but it made me think I might. For some reason, while handling a "fresh out of the bag" Keitech shad-like bait, my hands felt greasier than usual. So, when I tied my terminal knot to the hook, I transferred some of this oily stuff onto my line. Something like this might be a possible culprit, something you are doing different. If you have tied good knots in the past, haven't changed the way you tie them, I'd think something else is up. Brad

I don't flip but if I did I think the only rod requirement I'd think would be a priority is a bit more length to flip a bit farther out. Not only can you reach out farther, but the swing arc of the jig/lure gets an extra bump. On pitching, for me it depends on whether I am seated in my canoe or kayak, or standing in these or a boat, or from a bank. I'd want a rod that fits, shorter for seated, longer for standing. I make very long pitches, prefer the way, for example, a drop shot casts through the air versus a tumbling motion often from an overhand cast. Long or short, the accuracy for pitching is superb. *** I need to work on the technique of pulling back a bit on the rod just before touch down to minimize splash. Great techniques, both. Brad

So many really good points, especially the post properly defining a drop shot as being simply any rig where the weight is below the hook. It actually goes by another name for this very reason: down shot. What happened with the drop shot is it became tightly associated with its finesse presentation: light lines of 6 or 8 lbs. leaders or main lines, on light tackle, hooks as small as #4s, tiny slender plastics. But, it is a heck of a presentation with a large weight used to crash through vegetation mats pulling behind it a larger, bulkier plastic like a creature bait. The length between the hook and sinker is often a big deal. I wanted to mention that in addition to the Gamakatsu swivel drop shot hooks that there are sources for very stout hooks in the 3/0 and 4/0 range which also use a swivel and a "pinch grip" for a separate line down from the hook to the weight. This way, you can experiment with a 6" spread, a 12", really any spread by just attaching a different length line down to the sinker. Sometimes they want the bait just off the bottom, almost as tight as a nose weighted worm, other times 3 feet off the bottom. I actually have a better hook-up ratio with a Roboworm Rebarb type hook as it has the hook point lying under the skin at an angle when T-Rigged that comes flying out and snags more fish for me. I rarely use much of a retrieval pace, prefer to let my drop shots sit stationary, maybe lift it a few times back in my direction before I reel up and re-cast it. C-Rig = search presentation for me. Big weights are to get it down fast, hold contact with the bottom, stir up the mud and detritus like a cloud to attract fish. Both presentations, for sure, can be fished like the other. Brad

I'd add that "uni" is short for universal and for very good reasons. If you could only tie one knot, this'd be it: 1) It is actually a better arbor knot for tying onto a reel . . . than an arbor knot; 2) It is one of the top "junction" knots between: a) a backer line and main line; or, a main line and a leader; 3) It is a top knot for tying on terminal tackle, can be tied "single" or lined "doubled;" 4) and, you can cinch the knot down and not pull it all the way snug for a really good loose operating loop knot alternative. Brad

One of my confidence lures, so, I when I use both the Easy Shiners and, more lately, the Shad Impact, I use a 3/0 60 degree bend jig hook to which I add an Owner CPS (medium size). I screw the nose of these two plastics onto the CPS, then Texas Rig it from there leaving the hook hidden in the slit up on the dorsal side of these shads, slightly skin-hooked. I throw mine weightless, want the look of an injured or dying shad. ***One thing: Try fishing these "finesse" and less so on an over-active retrieval, almost like a T-Rigged worm, even dragging it across the bottom. Oh! My other big confidence bait? A small Roboworm (Morning Dawn or Aaron's Magic, etc.), on a Roboworm Gamakatsu Rebarb hook, Texas Rigged. A Senko would be a third, wacky or T-Rigged. Look at all of the responses and one can quickly see why Gary Yamamoto can charge a premium price for these. Brad

Seth Feider has a really great video on dock fishing. He uses 20 lbs. fluorocarbon, doesn't like braid. But, one of the main points he makes is to not spool up your reel with a lot of line. It looks like the reel he uses is about 25 to 50% spooled. He says this really cuts down on backlashes. Makes sense, and if you are going to make long casts, a rod and reel dedicated to pitching and skipping, you don't need it anyway. Brad

If you ever want to go even smaller, still catch bass, do a search for Ajing jig heads. My favorite for panfish is the tiny .7 gram model which, I think, uses a #7 hook. It is great for tossing tiny plastics in the 1 to 1.5" range. I often use a Creme black bodied grub with a curly chartreuse tail that can often be found at WalMart. Fish of all kinds seem to love these. The .7 gram size is around 1/40th of an ounce. I believe Owner is the manufacturer. Owner = quality. It has two tie areas and I use the dorsal one more often than up at the nose. And, it comes in sizes up to 2.2 grams, or 1/13th of an ounce. I have never done it but I suppose one could run the lead up into a small tube, too. Brad

I have good luck using the Keitech 4" Shad Impacts and Easy Shiners on a 60 degree bend jig hook (3/0) and an Owner medium sized CPS, centering pin. I fish mine weightless. For your set-up, you'd likely want or need a smaller jig hook (1/0 or 2/0) for the smaller lure length you like and use (2.8"), then a tiny bullet weight above the hook, pegged. This way, you can have the weight and the CPS, too. I'm not certain why, but I often get a half dozen or more fish easily with my rigging before I have to give up on the plastic. I've experienced a similar thing, though, with the tiny Yamamoto single tailed grubs. They are for me, by far, the best swimming plastics in this class . . . but a passing bluegill can swipe off its tail very easily. But, they swim soooooo good! Brad

I think reason has it dialed in correctly, even the circumstances you related regarding how it happened seem to fit well. That three (3) areas of a rod would simultaneously break is so improbable, the first break rapidly releasing the stress overloading on the other two areas, that another culprit has to be in play. I suppose this is a material science sort of "thing" where in addition to static strains and stresses on rods, there are other considerations. I have never heard of a rod breaking this way. Disappointing, for sure, but cool from just the perspective of the science behind it. Hope you get it fixed/replaced and back in use soon!!! Brad

Yes, I see what you mean, Tom. If you get just a bit outside of Austin, certainly to its east or west, it becomes rural very quickly with some of the most beautiful countryside in the USA. The Hill Country area is generally studded with trees and seasonal wildflowers, just beautiful. Austin is highly regarded, the city with its music, restaurants and, usually cities with big dominant universities have a special "vibe" to them. D/FW is all grown together now with cities/development all in between the two major cities . . . pushing up now to its north and I suppose will one day soon bump into the Oklahoma border. It will generally be east Texas where one can access countless high-quality bass lakes and these are very accessible from either the Austin area of Dallas/Fort Worth. An angler could move here and spend years visiting different lakes and likely not cover them all. Brad

I'm not certain but one thing about car-topping is as long as you have the front end very secure, you'll likely see any looseness if it develops, then you can take care of it. I couldn't see my low riding kayak or canoe back there on my trailer as easily. I was always surprised to see a few inches of slack develop using ratchet straps. Note below someone else posted the cam straps at Harbor Freight. They are cheap and work great. I believe NRS makes some higher quality straps but I just use the Harbor Freight ones, about an inch wide or so. *** As regards pushing the nylon strapping through, cut the tag end at a 45 degree angle then before it frays, just use a flame and lightly melt the fresh cut. It'll stiffen it making it easier to push through the cam. *** One other note is that the cam straps wind up into a little disc about 3" in diameter and I just toss mine in my truck. Ratchet straps are much bulkier. If you get cam straps, I'll post the proper technique to roll them up tightly and very quickly. Brad

Austin is hardly rural with almost 1 million residents, and it is the 11th largest city in the USA. It is just under 200 miles away from Dallas and Fort Worth.