Brad in Texas

Todd2, I'd have to go and read the technical details on the line but you can find it searching for Sufix's website. I think Nanobraid is only a 3 strand construct, something like that, and not the more typical 8 strand sort. The difference as best I can tell from reading Sufix's information is related to the braiding done at more acute angles, tighter winds. I think I know what you are asking about limpness/body and for the 2 lbs. stuff, it is sooooooo fine, 1/1000ths of an inch in diameter, I don't think there is any way to build much body into it. I have some of the 14 lbs. Nanobraid on a spinning reel, I bought this to compare to 10 lbs. Sufix 832 (since they have the same diameter) and I do think it has more body than 832 which is pretty limp especially since it has that element of Gore added to it for that very purpose. I think 14 lbs. Nanobraid would be the absolute peak in strength to diameter ratios for those of us who really want to stick with braids of 10 lbs. test or so. With the 14, you'd get the 10 lbs. size and i think around the equivalent of many other 20 lbs. test braids in breaking strength. That's a great combination. It was a magical "find" for me. I sure wish they made it in a bright color. Brad

I don't have any Nanofil on a reel now but I always liked it for finesse fishing, never any issues to speak of compared to other lines with "their" own issues. And, knot strength? I think what Nanofil really did was expose how bad some anglers tie knots. If you tie good, accurate knots, it is just fine. One thing: It is the only line on a spinning reel that did that giant "slip" where the whole spool of line rotated. In its defense, I hadn't tied on a backer line or used any tape in that instance. *** If you do change, could I make a suggestion? Try Sufix Nanobraid in a very light test strength. If you can find a bass that can break this stuff in 6 lbs. test, I want to see a photo of the fish. So far, on finesse reels where I have its 2 lbs. test spooled on, inadvertently catch the occasional bass or catfish, I am up to 4 lbs. fish with no line breakage. 6 would be beyond what is needed and just so thin, casts a mile. And, 14 lbs. Nanobraid, the largest available, has the same diameter as 10 lbs. Sufix 832, another line I really, really like. Nanobraid is the strongest braid, thinnest diameter braid I have ever used. This would keep me from going back to Nanofil. But, it works very well for a lot of us. It certainly acquired a rather quick group of "haters" and I think this might be because the company really over-hyped the line when it was introduced. Happens all the time. Brad Brad

Here in Texas we are experiencing some early hot temps approaching records this weekend. So, I fell into my "summer" pattern a bit early today where I got up early to avoid the heat. I ended up fishing from around 7:30 AM to 10 AM, just dropped my Meyers canoe in the water on Lake Athens and started catching them pretty fast. Two rods on deck but I never even got the second one wet. What has worked for me with the drop shot on Lake Athens which has a ton of grass is to use a longer leader down to the "drop shot" so that the worm isn't lost in it and is sort of floating above it. It worked well today with 7 or 8 LMBs, most in the 2 to 3 lbs. range, one over 4 but under 5. I have become a real fan of Rebarb hooks over the very fine Gamakatsu swivel hooks I have used in the past. For the latter, I used a nose hooking method but for the Rebarb hooks, I T-Rig a Roboworm plastic and leave the hook embedded. My hook up ratio is much higher. Always a reliable presentation for me, the drop shot, and today it worked so well I never got off of it to try other things. Lessons learned: longer sinker leaders on fuzzy lakes, bass will get wound up on lily pad stems but seem to work loose if you give the time. Some pics. Brad

I think this is essentially what it is, too, a main line attachment, then two attachment points. I suppose the difference and what sort of caught my attention was that with a standard 3-way swivel, if one ring is used for a sinker, it "fixes" the location of the other ring and its attachment. For this hula-hoop design, it can pivot 360 degrees. ***Although, with currents and a taut line, my guess is the hula hoop ring and its attachment will likely stay, more or less, oriented in one direction. I think the first thing I'll try with it is sort of a mocked up drop shot rig with the hook off on its own longer leader . . . this, instead of the drop shot hook being attached as they are typically (tight to the main line). I'll post results. Brad

Well, I saw these mentioned on another forum, went to the website and being a gadget guy, I ordered two different sizes. As you can see in the attached photo, this swivel has one ring "over" another. Very interesting and it piqued my interest as it related to possible uses for certain presentations. So, as I see it, a main line would be attached up at the top ring, then a leader line down to a sinker . . . leaving the hula hoop ring, which can then rotate at will, to attach a separate leader for a hook, etc. I started imagining applications close to drop shots and Carolina Rigs in form, several others, too. I'll post my experiences after I receive these swivels, fish them, see how they operate. For now, just passing along a possible cool product. I am pretty certain this is Japanese in its origin. They really push out a lot of interesting ideas. Brad

I think you have it dialed in pretty good. Texas is importing Florida bass genetics into our native bass population. And, what I have noticed is in lakes with a good dose of these genetics, they fight like crazy and seem to grow larger. With a medium rod, 6 footer, you'll gain some leverage with the shorter lever; and, your idea of pulling across the top of grass seems like the way to go with lighter tackle, not so much trying to penetrate down into it. To weightless and lightly-weighted worms/creature baits, I'd throw some smaller shad-like plastics, Keitechs for example. Depending on how much water you have above the grass, making them dart around, fall, look like an injured bait fish works at times as good as anything. Oh! And, if you can find/access small openings in the grass, consider some of the micro-jigs on the market now becoming popular. They always hit jigs . . . the trick will be getting them out of the grass on spinning gear. One pro angler from the southeast has won a lot of money doing this with 4000 series spinning reels and stout rods. He hits places hard to get to with casting gear. Best of luck!!! Brad

I agree with Graham and his preferred hook style regarding what has been the best for me: hook ups and the action, coming through weeds, etc. The Zappu Inchi Wacky Heads are "to die for" as the kids used to say. I like them with the lightest weights offered, with and without the weed guards. You can always snap the guard off. But, what it is about the hook is the position of the weighting where it sort of pulls the worm down from below, hook pointed up. The worm is positioned like a parachute. Since so many wacky worms are actually bitten on the drop or when they thud down, this is a great orientation. Also, the weight itself is something that likely assists the hook getting caught in the fish's mouth tissue over just an unweighted hook. The only downside? Expensive. But, I rarely lose these for some reason, find them very easy to work around weeds/cover. Again, I think this is likely due to how the hook is positioned as it falls or as it is dragged. Brad

Some fine logic, tips here. I really like the idea of generally skipping and only buying odds or evens. For sure, on some fat plastics, the EWG seems almost necessary; but, whenever possible, I like to use an old fashioned worm hook. I thread the hook tip through the nose of the plastic with a bias, not straight down, so that when I T-Rig it, I can leave the hook point just below the surface (weedless) where it pops out at around a 45 degree angle to drive into and snag the fish. i just feel that it makes for the very best hook set. EWGs and offset hooks have rather flat-lying hook points by comparison and I miss more with them. One hook I never leave home without? Roboworm Rebarb hooks in various sizes. I use the smaller sizes for drop shots, larger sizes for other presentations. One last thing I'd add: buy 60 degree jig hooks (3/0 would be good), medium sized Owner CPS centering pins, and nose pin Keitechs and worms, other plastics. This is another "hook" set up that gives a nice big bite area for the fish to get caught on. Brad

I second the idea regarding not using braid over 10 lbs. on spinning reels . . . with very few exceptions. None for finesse applications. I do string up much lighter braid for pan fishing; but, for bass, 10 used with proper spinning rod and reel technique is more than enough. By going larger, you give away a whole lot more than you pick up. *** If I were fishing straight braid, no leaders, I'd likely drop to just 6 lbs. Sufix Nanobraid. It is the strongest braid I have ever used, smallest diameter, too. 14 lbs. Nanobraid is the same diameter as 10 lbs. 832. I still haven't latched onto a bass or catfish (when pan fishing) that has broken me off with 2 lbs. Nanobraid though I am very careful how I fight the fish. I've caught > 4 lbs. bass and catfish both. Brad

I use Stradic Ci4+ reels, and I also have a few less expensive Nasci reels in 1000s. Nasci reels are great for around $100 but they aren't as good (nor are they as expensive!) as Ci4+ reels, also from Shimano. But, both are exceptional for their price points. For a ML rod, especially the way you are intending to use it, like Jig Man, I think the balance from pairing it with a Stradic Ci4+ 2500 would be optimal. Lighter is always better as long as the power is there for intended presentations. A 2500 series will give you the power. The whole idea of balancing a rod and reel is good, except at what point do you want to consider it balanced? For me, it is when the line is out, held a bit taut or being slowly retrieved as it is in most finesse presentations . . . meaning the rod tip is being tugged down by being fished. I don't consider "balance" as being a reel mounted on a rod and balanced so that it teeters at some magical point on an extended finger. I want the feel and balance to be optimal for the position where it'll spend the most time: lure and line out in the water looking for a fish. In that position, there is most often some tug down on the rod tip which, at the farthest distance, means the lever creates a different balance point. Brad

I think MassYak85 is on the right track. There is essentially no tensile "pull" on line that far up in your spool. If you cast beyond the 20 to 25 yards, and I am sure you do in those presentations, the line has already absorbed the initial inertia shock . . . spool going from 0 to XX MPH, you know some speed, when you whip the rod forward. And, at 20 to 25 yards of line out, where you are breaking off, for many reels, this would be about the point where the spool outruns the line being pulled off setting up for a possible backlash. The projectile (lure) isn't even really pulling on the line all that much, the spool issue becomes its speed exceeding required line. Heck, even a kinked line from picking out a knot seems odd to me. When I have ever had a spinnerbait go flying off, it is usually very close to the end where I picked up a nick, some abrasion, but my cast got it going forward and off it goes. Another anecdote about how very little pressure is on the line up in a spool. Pro bass angler, Aaron Martens, uses braid backer for a rather long length of fluorocarbon that generally exceeds the longest cast he plans to make by 20 or so yards. When he ties this really long leader, or main line, whatever we might call it, he uses an overhand knot. He says that since he never gets close to the knot, why bother taking time and tying a super strong knot. He is correct. Brad

Plenty of great rod brands. I use a lot of St. Croix rods and really like them. I was just going to add that if someone is looking for a single rod, a "jack of all trades, master of none" rod, I think I'd select a 7 ft. MH casting rod, or a 7 ft. M spinning rod. In each case, they are very versatile. Brad

I'll try to do a knot video some day very soon to share here. There are a few tricks that really, really improve knot success, both terminal and junction types. One reason it is hard for someone else to comment on the success of another's knot, like recommendations regarding how many wraps, is not knowing how accurately and precisely it is tied. With an Alberto/Albright type junction knot, I am usually joining 10 lbs. Sufix 832 braid to Seaguar Invizx in 8 lbs. I use 9 wraps away, then just 3 back and out. I used to use more backing out, find absolutely no difference in outcomes. The FG gets its strength from the fact that it is plaited, not so much relying on wraps where friction is the key. As tension pulls on an FG knot, the sort of serpentine "in and out" of the line through these plaits bunches up. Here, a good analogy is like trying to take off a wedding ring that is too tight, the skin bunches up on the back side of the ring and won't let the finger slide out. The line in an FG does that . . . repeatedly. A great knot, the FG, as it is actually both thinner and stronger at the same time. Say, a tip for those of you using a uni junction knot. If you have a dominant right or left tying motion, you know, tie better one direction than the other, what you can do is make your first of the two knots in your "best direction," then instead of tying it from your weak side, you can just turn the whole knot assembly around and tie it, again, from your strong/dominant side. With a uni junction knot, you have two knots and that means two places to fail so getting both sides done as best as possible is important. Use your dominant orientation helps here. Brad

You are tying better FG knots, I suspect. There is one thing for certain and that is that most monofilament lines absorb water and it weakens them, knots, too. As mono absorbs water and then dries, it'll create havoc (like a pair of blue jeans washed then dried) with knots so best to re-tie often else expect some slipping and breakage. High quality fluorocarbon lines don't absorb water. You are spot on regarding the different characteristics of stretch between the two. There is a difference between elasticity (what monofilaments have) and plasticity (what fluorocarbons have). While I use braid to fluoro short leaders for most of my finesse stuff, for spinning tackle in general, I have often been under the impression that people try too danged hard to use fluoro maybe because the pros often do. But, a mono leader works great. Brad

I don't think I have ever read a bad review of a G Loomis rod, anywhere. As long as you have the power dialed in correctly for its intended purposes, you'll be purchasing a rod with a solid reputation. An 852 would seem just about right for 5" plastics, etc. Brad

My findings, too, that the St. Croix rods are often a tad heavier than their ratings . . . so I'd go with a M, not a MH from that brand. Great rods, for sure! Just in general, really general, I want a spinning rod that loads up really well so I can use it as a spinning rod is intended to be used. For me, this means if I err, I'd rather to be on the side of under-power, definitely not over-powered. And, I primarily fish out of a kayak or canoe and, here, the under-power routine is often overlooked but very valuable. Since a larger fish can actually pull against an un-anchored vessel like these, going lighter offsets the fact that a heavier rod with a kayak not anchored is harder to load up. But, you define your requirement really well describing why you want that extra stiffness for how you work a jerk bait, etc. Now, to find the correct rod!!!! Brad

I suppose I have mentioned this before, that the world's greatest fishing canoe would be a Meyers Sportspal in either a S-13/S-15 or S-14/S-16. The 13 and the 15 are square sterns, ready for mounting TMs and small outboards. But, if you have no expectations of ever adding power, the double pointed 14 and 16 would work great and you can side mount a TM. An S-13 weighs 57 lbs. and two large men can fish in one and stand at the same time. I mention it because it'd be a dream to car-top to any destination or throw in the back of truck. In my S-15, photo below, I often leave my boathouse, paddle standing up (280 CM paddle) out about a mile, then back. The other photo has me out with one of my grandsons. I might sit down to put on a fresh plastic or drink something. Max speeds? I can go about 3 MPH; but, for certain, an aluminum kayak is a chore in wind so you have to learn techniques to handle it. I prefer a long stake-out pole that I run through the ring on an anchor trolley. It works great and for the depths of water I fish in. I think the capacity of mine in 705 lbs. so you can load a wife, friend, kids AND camping gear. Oh! It comes with oar locks!!! I have never used mine just preferring a long paddle. The S-15 is rated up to a 5HP outboard but I'd go down to a 2.5 HP as that is all one would need, if not less. I could go on and on about the virtues of these vessels. It'd be a great choice for anyone struggling with the kayak vs. jon boat issues since it bridges the gap. So, it may be too late for the OP but others might want to do some research on these canoes. Brad

My experience is when dead-sticking is working best, it means by elimination that bass aren't acting aggressive and, say, biting on the drop or at the "thud." You can't get to the dead-sticking stage unless your bait/lure is first ignored. So, I see it the way Toxic explains it, that non-aggressive (cold weather?) or bass not in an actual feeding mood, that if you throw something into a "fishy" area, and it sits there, it doesn't mean the fish aren't keeping an eye on it. This is where they'll often pick a bait up and drop it really fast, so you have to really be ready to set the hook. And, often several fish are close by and that likely accounts for a lot of fish not all that hungry floating close by, then after the dead-stick, the angler pops the bait and there is some competition or just natural predator response to hitting it. *** This year? What has worked exceptionally well for me all through April was to throw a weightless Keitech 4" Shad Impact soft jerk bait, let it fall like an injured/dying bait fish to the bottom, and if not bit on the way down or at first contact, I have been dead-sticking it. Dead-sticking a jerk-bait. Go figure! I have been so surprised at the lengths of the actual delays before the Keitech is actually picked up and swam off with in the fish's mouth. Up to a minute delay, I'd say. Line watching is imperative. Could be the salt in Keitechs which is pretty strong. I recently bit the head off of one where it was torn. I had been using it for a good while but noticed that it still had a distinct salty taste. Brad

I wouldn't even consider an MH rod for this. I agree that an M would be very versatile but an ML would likely be optimal for casting distance and still having the necessary power to control a nice sized fish. Be sure and hone your spinning gear techniques, use it as intended. One thing worth considering? I might suggest dropping down to 6# Sufix Nanobraid. It'd likely be stronger than the larger fluoros and mono lines recommended. it is the smallest braid I know of, the strongest for its size, too. Whatever you have on your reel right now, just back off some that line and use the remainder as a backer, then add about 20 yards more Nanobraid than the distance you can cast, or more, and I bet you will fling smaller lures really far. Is braid ideal here? Maybe not, but no line covers all circumstances all the time. Brad

I think that is a great technique, Tom. My guess is he is trying to repeatedly re-create a large fall over and over, that it is this more than the ripping itself to attract fish. Of course, pulling a C-Rig across the bottom, a sound search technique, works very well because the weight out in front kicks up some "dust." Fish seem to see this and are attracted to it. I wouldn't be surprised if KVD's technique doesn't also catch some just alerted to the speedy little plastic whizzing by more so than just the ensuing fall. Brad

And to add along to Catt's theme, if you aren't the angler type to soak a finesse bait, prefer a little more action, with many of the finesse presentations, what you will find is pitching them out to what Catt calls high percentage targets, that often they'll get bit on the drop itself or not long after landing on bottom. So, instead of soaking a plastic, working it methodically in the event it isn't bitten rather fast, just pitch it out, let it drop, wait/twitch for 10/20 seconds, then reel it back in and quickly move a few feet away and do it again. You might make 15 presentations in 5 minutes this way. This might feed your "need for speed." That's a pretty good cadence. Both ways work well, the slow finesse retrievals after a long soaking and also "searching" for a fish that will bite it on the drop or as it thuds into the bottom. In general, the more active fish are feeding, water temps play a role, too, the more likely they are to make a "snap" decision and pounce on your lure fast. Another post somewhere I read today, one poster mentioned tossing a spinnerbait out like on a pitch to lay-downs, that a spinnerbait can be fished "finesse" and not just as a way to cover a lot of water making long casts. Pretty cool idea to give a go. Brad

Just to add an interesting option, I have a G-Rods Intl. stick made with graphite and graphene layers. Graphene is the relatively new single carbon atom wide fabric that is supposedly the world's strongest material. It will soon be featured in things such as bullet-proof vests and more where the weight/strength ratio is important. So, I bought a G-Rod rod from a friend, lightly used and expertly cared for, mine actually a trout rod but one I use for panfish primarily. It'll pull in a nice sized bass but . . . to get back on topic, they have a spinning rod, 7' Game Changer just above $200 I think. What I wanted to mention is that my graphene rod has a very unusual feel to it. It casts like a dream with sort of a soft feeling tip but it loads up nicely. It feels great, both to the touch and operationally. Brad

Some good stories passed along earlier about catching nice bass after really working a lay-down. I got a chuckle, made me think that bass waiting THAT long to strike out are just following the Biblical tutoring, Matthew 18:22, you know, "How many times shall I forgive my brother who sins against me." The answer was not seven times but seventy seven times. So, bass will put up with you slapping that worm or spinnerbait in their faces . . . until they won't. Brad

Just a general observation from here in Texas where bass boats, kayaks too, are plentiful . . . that it always seems to me that anglers trolling along the banks in big boats seem to move along too fast. The kayakers often fish slower, more deliberately, because they often have to spend time setting up to hold a position, like dropping an anchor or stabbing in a stake-out pole. So, they might stay on a fishy site too long just avoiding having to pick up and move. Something between these two extremes? The power poles for the big boats, even kayaks now, and relatively new GPS options for sticking in place on water with TMs, and pedals for kayaks? All of these help boaters manage water better, open up the available options regarding how long someone can sit on a spot. Then, it gets back to personal statistics. Mine seem to suggest that pitching to a particular lay down and just working it from all angles, what, maybe a half dozen attempts, is about right. I'm not in the camp of sitting on one lay down for 100 pitches or something like that. A big part of it relates closely to how we prefer to fish, say power versus finesse angling. For many, it'd feel uncomfortable not to be on the move covering water faster. They'd get antsy pitching to a lay down for too long. Brad

Good advice already shared. I'm a braid to flouro leader guy, usually leaders about 6 or so feet in length but, essentially, knot off the reel is what I am looking for. And, I use standard fluorocarbon for leaders, Invizx, in 6 or 8 lbs. A spool of it will last a long time, works great. I don't know many freshwater anglers who use the flurocarbons made specifically for leaders. Here's one observation: Try fishing straight fluoro on a reel and see how you like it. Some do, a lot don't. If you are in the latter group, you'll swear off the stuff and revert to others lines or just using it for leaders. And, if you decide against using it straight, you have a whole reel of it to use for leaders. No loss in that! Brad