Brad in Texas

We have them here on Lake Athens and our lake, 1799 acres, has no major river system supplying it, few creeks and none of any size. So, the effect is the white bass have no systems to run up into in their seasonal late winter spawn. These bass use windy coves as alternative sites to spawn. The effect is a more limited spawn event, less white bass, but huge ones compared to the size one often catches fishing up in the creeks and rivers in Feb/March here in north and east Texas. I contacted Dr. Richard Ott, sent along some photos telling him what size I had been catching in my cove, not a one was less than 14 or 15" over the 3 day Presidents Day weekend and 6 or so hours of fishing those days and 40 to 50 white bass caught, several over the lake record of 3 lbs. and 18". Dr. Ott (TPWD guy) wrote that, yes, that the greater size was owing to "interspecific" competition. In other words, inter-species competition which resulted in less white bass but the ones we had were really large. At least on every lake nearby here, having white bass in the mix appears to have no deleterious effects on black bass species. Brad

More good advice, ideas. As regards the swivel hooks, I greatly prefer the Gamakatsu version with the pinch-on line grip for the separate line from the bottom of the hook down to a pinch-on drop shot weight. There are others with the two eyes . . . but they require a second knot to be tied, more time for this and it is so much easier to start with a long length "sinker leader" and cut off a few inches repeatedly to find the right depth for that day, where the fish want the hook in relation to the bottom. For sure, using any of the swivel hooks allows one to use a lighter test line down from the hook to the sinker so that if you do get hung up, often at the sinker and not the hook, you might lose the sinker but save the hook! Money saved. Brad

I used to use the Gamakatsu swivel hooks for drop shot riggings, liked them quite well. The theory is, at least in part, that these hooks eliminate a lot of line twist. And, the little flag-like worms can flutter around a bit more in currents, move more. Anyway, I had one trip out last spring where something went wrong and I lost every bass that bit. It was so weird: I was 0 for 20 landing the bass. And, I was a very experienced drop shot user. Likely spawners that were somehow picking it up, moving it or something. I am still not absolutely certain what happened. When I moved over to using Roboworm Rebarb hooks, generally either #1s or 1/0s, my results just jumped off the chart. I have days where I might miss one fish on a bad hook set. Last Saturday, I fished under a bridge near the boat ramp on my home lake, caught 6 out of 6. Never lost a fish to a bad hook set. So, a bad day led to some experimentation . . . and I found my hook! Brad P.S. the sort of weight one uses on a drop shot is of little importance. It is "below the action" so to speak. It is just that certain shapes do better, say cylinder shapes for snaggy conditions, but other shapes, too. If you don't have a true drop shot weight, you can pinch on some lead, that, or use just about anything in your tackle box until you can get some actual DS weights.

FishDewd, I think you are going to love straight-shanked hooks, I really do. I haven't seen Roboworm Rebarb hooks at places like Academy; but, I have seen Owner Cover Shot Worm hooks and they'd work really well, too, as will others. A quick trip out Saturday netted be 6 LMBs in a really short time period using a drop shot with just a #1 Rebarb hook. I was 6 for 6 on hookups and landing them all. Even that tiny straight-shanked hook on a drop shot really jams itself into flesh and/or bone and cartilage and holds fast. They can often be hard to dislodge with one's fingers and I have to occasionally grab my pliers to extract the hook. Brad

I always fish worse from my big Meyers Sportspal canoe with a companion angler up front. I find myself making for adjustments for the other angler, being accommodative, not concentrating enough on my own "game." For me, fishing with friends alongside in our own separate kayaks, a whole different story. Very enjoyable because we can talk but aren't actually limiting each other in the angling sense. I do go out solo quite a lot and since the competitive edge isn't firing off, I do what you do and try places and things I might not otherwise choose. Brad

I believe Zebco spincast reels still use Cajun line. At least one of these lines is red and it is, without a doubt, the stretchiest monofilament I have ever personally used. Zebco recommends 6 to 12 lbs. test as a normal range depending on what your target fish will be. I'd actually stick with the Cajun line for youngsters. It is very forgiving, actually fits a spincast reel with its limited drag system, the way it is often fished. I think some of these reels come with an extra line spool and you might try a different line weight with the second one, see which works best. Brad

I really like the several variations of Aaron's Magic, named for fishing stud, Aaron Martens, the pro bass angler. Some cool colors and one thing about Roboworms is that almost all of them have multiple colors, so more possibilities of catching the attention on nearby bass. Lots of complaints lately (summer doldrums) about slow fishing on my home lake here in east Texas, Lake Athens. But, I told the TFF crowd I caught 6 LMBs rather fast on a drop shot near a well-known bridge on the lake yesterday. I was using a, what, I guess they call it Morning Dawn, sort of a Popsicle red color but it has the chartreuse tail tip. I had never seen these color tipped tails, that or just never noticed their availability; so, I bought some with my last order. This color works very well for me on several lakes with moderately clear, lightly stained water. The color might work best on lakes with bass feeding on bluegills. Here, a pic from yesterday and you can see the little worm in the background. Cheers! Brad

For new line, put the line spool on a pencil or something (axle), perhaps have someone hold it for you 10 feet or so away. The rule is simple: for a spinning reel the line should feed off of the spool of line (held vertically) from the bottom, so just a mnemonic to remember this: loading line on a spinning reel is like the delivery of an under-handed softball pitch; loading line on a casting reel is like the delivery of an over-hand fastball pitch. For a casting reel, it'd come off the top. Brad

You don't avoid much summer heat in Oklahoma compared to Texas, but have some tougher winters. Northeast Texas or far North Texas would put you near the big city you desire to be close to. We live on Lake Athens, so about 70 miles south of Dallas, about 30 miles west of Tyler. Tyler is a nice city of around 110,000 residents as I recall. Lakes? Everywhere. Texas is just one of I believe 5 states with no state income tax. Depending on your personal situation, this could come into play. *** Every time a Texas Ranger baseball player starts trying to leave for a California or NY team for more bucks as a free agent, the GM reminds them of all of the extra taxes, cost of living issues in other states. Brad

Tizi, for every angler like you, there is a lonely fully-equipped bass boat with $10,000 worth of fishing tackle ready to be carried out to a lake, any lake. But, it sits in a garage. They often are used sparingly, a few times a year, if that. And, sort of like the dog pound I guess, boats bought like "cute puppies" often end up unwanted with for sale signs on them on Craig's List. Kayaks are the same way, even worse, because the lower price tags put in reach of more impulsive buying behavior. Ah! to go out minimalist is such a sublime event. Brad

That's the main lesson here . . . that different things work for different people. Setting the hook is yet another example. I was watching a video of Gary Yamamoto of Senko fame and he mentioned that he has gone almost entirely to spinning gear nowadays, uses a firm but not too hard sweep hook set. Others do well with other gear, other variations. The results are often similar. If there is such a thing as having a "confidence bait," there certainly are also "confidence techniques" we favor regardless of any text book answers. Brad

That is actually a very good idea, to own a paddler that can double down as a powered kayak for other purposes, say, you want to use it to get to the far end of a larger lake, paddle while you are there, then use it to get back. I have a Big Rig like this: Paddles well and stable for shorter sorts of trips but I have a customized trolling motor, too. If they ever perfect and get the cost down on lithium batteries, it'll really change the power options we use on kayaks. Brad

I'm with most of the others on this aspect of controlling a jumper: keep tension on the line. How much? To the point that as it comes out of the water, you'd be moving the fish toward you while still in the air or at least attempting to do so. If you release the pressure, regardless of the sort of hook you are using, it is then that the weight of the lure/plastic gives them a bit of leverage to toss it loose. And, a bass jumping is rarely a surprise, most of us can feel and see it developing. Be sure to take all slack out of the line, then once they are in the air, pull back, reel in line fast as they fall, say a prayer. Brad

Some good advice, different opinions as to what is biting you. I'd only add that if you suggested, I believe you did, that someone nearby is catching bass with a similar T-Rig and you aren't, that whether you are getting bit by bluegills, or not, you still aren't catching bass at other times. Frustrating. So, one simple change I made when I was having a similar issue with successful hook ups was I simply moved away from offset hooks, certainly EWGs, reverted to a worm hook. I prefer the Roboworm Rebarb Hooks (made by Gamakatsu as I recall). Owner and others have great hooks with good keepers. I pull my hook through the top of a worm, twist and turn and leave the point slightly in the meat of the plastic. When you set the hook, the angle that point comes blasting out of the plastic is just superior, I think, and based on my results. You can see it here, what I mean, by contrasting two hook types. Brad

There are two approaches, well, at least two. One is sort of "Hobie" and other fully-decked out kayaks, tournament quality makes and models, that actually allow you to carry equipment rivaling the bass boat crowd. A second is grabbing a light paddler, say an Eddyline Caribbean 12 or 14 Angler, others too qualify here, one that requires no carts, no trailering, carry along a rod or two, a Plano box of what you intend to use for that specific trip, your lures in a tackle bag with room for snacks/water/essentials . . . and go out minimalist. I actually enjoy fishing both ways, I really do and who wouldn't? The difference? I find myself fishing way more often, that I actually get out on the water much more frequently, with the latter. It takes just a few minutes to rig up, toss a light paddler in the rear of a truck bed, car top it. You get on and off the water 10X as fast, back home and unload fast. Kayak fishing, all styles, will soon take over the world, by the way! Ha! Brad

Yes, very tough and I wholeheartedly agree here, my quoting the Tackletour study nothwithstanding. But, we here on this forum, for the most part I am supposing are staunch American capitalists in our attitudes . . . always looking for a money-making advantage in "business." So, in the business of fishing for a living, pro anglers, where results make a difference in the size of paychecks, fluorocarbon is the line of choice way over traditional mono for applications where either would work. This can't be isolated to make it all just about line breakage, for sure, but all of the qualities of one over the other: sinking rates, visibility, strength per diameter. Cost is no limiting factor here as I suppose a large majority of the top anglers have some sort of financial arrangement with a fluoro source, get their line for free. Still, Hank Parker had that great video recently, fished with a local in Maine as I recall, from this man's boat. Somewhere in the middle of the video, Hank said that while he was using all of the state of the art stuff, tackle, that his partner that day was using mono, also as I recall other "stuff" sort of dated like old standard lures. Hank said they were catching fish about at the same rate, that it just goes to show that all of the so-called advancements were of minimal value. Words and sentiments to that effect. Brad

The most comprehensive test I have ever read was performed by Tackletour.com. It can be found here: Fluorocarbon test The results are quite clear. While only 4 out of 14 fluoro lines tested were more abrasion-resistant (while dry) than the same diameter Berkley Trilene XL, a popular monofilament line used here as a baseline, all 14 were better than mono when wet. Trilene lost 56% of its abrasion resistance when wet for just 10 minutes. Any advantage it had is lost in actual fishing conditions. The difference between one fluoro and another? Just as one would expect that those that were softer to accentuate casting tested more poorly than those that were intended to be stiffer for leaders. Another cool "mention" in the article? While formulas certainly vary from one to another, there are only three sources for fluorocarbons: 2 German companies, 1 Japan source. What we most often see is just stuff made by the same sources, private labeled. *** Just one last observation about the comment about if you nick fluoro, it becomes more easily broken. There is certainly no material reason for this: the chemical bonds in fluoro greatly exceed those in most monos, so the remaining material should still out-perform a similar partial break in mono. So, what I think is actually happening is a nick in fluoro, harder to make to begin with, but that since it is harder, more dense, that it likely creates a little area that will then subsequently get snagged more easily. Brad

Tom can answer, likely will. Female bass are known to lay eggs on several different nesting sites. Likely, what they do is similar to a human female having twins or triplets: she drops some here, some there, until she is spawned out. It'd be good evolutionary biology. Everyone here, no doubt, has seen a water turtle trying to cross a highway. You look over and see some large pond, a seemingly perfect wet environment, then some crazy turtle walking away from it on a hot day. Why? I think in every species, there are a few "wired" to be be different. This turtle will likely die. But, maybe one in a hundred will find another source of water to live in. If its original home were to dry out, all turtles would die. If one gets away, even at great odds against it, well . . . the species is perpetuated. Bass have been around a very long time and some natural variation in how it spawns makes perfect sense in the event of some sort of catastrophic events. There have always been early, normal and late spawners. *** What would be really cool is for someone from, say, down here in Texas where the bass spawn might be a bit more predictable, not waiting for the ice to break up after a cold winter (I don't know how you guys can stand the waiting! Ha!), to publish a photo of a gravid (holding eggs) female caught late in the season to see how long that happens. That would be a great test to really know how deep in the season, on your lake for a particular year, bass are actually still spawning. I have rarely seen a gravid female caught, photo published, beyond late spring here in Texas. No doubt, it could extend to later in the year (beginning later, too) in more northern climates. Brad

Take a look at the reviews for the Strike King Tour Grade Skipping Jig. It has some interesting features. Brad

I would only add that other than just using a basic line, certainly not a premium one at a premium price, I'd likely want the monofilament to more or less match the diameter of the braid main line I'd be tying to. 50 and 12 sounds about right, will make for a nice junction knot. Brad

I think WRB, others, have it sorted out pretty well. I had to go back to the original post to see what sort of target fishing you were targeting, not sure you ever mention species all that clearly, then I saw "jump" and knew you very likely are speaking of bass. Bluegills and most ultra-light target species down here in Texas (panfish) don't jump. Not certain about perch and other northern species. So, to me it is rather simple as a UL angler, personally, when I go out equipped that way, I'll invariably catch a few LMBs looking for a snack on my tiny offerings. The deal is that unless those smaller hooks find some bone to lodge in to hold fast to, it just takes a lot longer to land a fish on spinning gear (especially ultra-light spinning gear) versus casting gear. This, I mean, if you are doing it "according to the book" and using the rod to work the fish, using the drag and reeling down on the line repeatedly. > Time = heightened # of fish lost. So, in a manner of speaking, you just aren't using the optimal gear to land bass. You are simply under-sized, really in almost all categories: the tiny Ned Rig, line, the soft ultra-light powered rod. But, I'd suggest that your skill set will vastly improve in time. And, isn't it a hoot catching small bass on UL? I love it! If you are targeting bass altogether, and I am not trying to convert you, I think you are dialed down too low on the rod power rating to optimize results. Brad

Good illustration of the required "on the water" tool. And, that is the operation of it, how to use it, I have always seen where someone compresses the hook in a manner so that when the hook comes back out, the barb misses the most flesh. If one were fishing alone, it might be problematic to press it down for the yank, but it depends on where the hook is lodged. Or, find another to assist. I think I'll cobble one together and carry it along with me. I rarely use trebles, hate the things, and I have a pair of fish grips with me all the time, use them frequently. Happens to pros, too. Have ya'll ever heard Jimmy Houston talking about the time he was on a boat with his sometimes business partners, Roland Martin and Bill Dance when Martin made a large counter-swing for a long cast, caught Dance right on the top of his skull, then accelerated the rod forward to make his cast. Dance apparently started yipping, who wouldn't, and trying to get Martin to stop, Martin didn't know he had him snagged, was yanking around, Dance's blood flowing finally made Martin a believer, Dance already WAS, of course. Houston is a great story teller, a video of him reciting the event is a hoot. A hoot likely for anyone but Bill Dance (or anyone with a hook inside his or her flesh!). Brad

I wouldn't think there is much accuracy in the drag metrics from one reel manufacturer, even model, to another. And, reviews of various reels often indicate that drags are often over-stated. In the end, snapping your rod with 25 lbs. is actually your answer, though, a tough lesson for sure. Those rods ARE tough to break compared to many others. So, if it snapped trying to lift a dead weight of 25 lbs., the result should sort of dial us in on how unnecessary a super high drag capacity is, a drag that exceeds the limits of the rod we are fishing with. Or, fishing line. There is no doubt that you need some power to catch big catfish. I even have issues here on my lake with bowfin taking off with one of my bass lures and making super strong runs, this typically on 10 lbs. braid with an 8 lbs. leader. As the drag is set for that line strength, the junction knot to fluoro, a 4 lbs. bowfin can run out line against drag seemingly effortlessly. My line would likely snap before my rod, for sure. But, I "get" your original question which related to how odd it is that two much different drag ratings don't make any sense. Next up for you? What rod to buy for big cats!!! Brad

Since swivels "swivel," I am uncertain what you mean by "all tags face down." Help me here. Are you referring to your knot at the terminal tackle, to a lure, or the multiple knots needed on a swivel? There is actually no such thing as a 100% knot. If a line breaks somewhere other than the knot, it has some sort of imperfection in it, else, the knot gives away first. If you take a length of line or rope, just tie a simple overhand knot along its length, it creates the weakest point. But, I get your point about tying good ones. It does make a big difference! Brad

Super fluke mentioned above is a good idea. It'll come slithering through most vegetation. I'd only add that weightless worms and Keitech shad-like baits can be good lures where you cast them and let them slowly fall through the water column, then pop or jerk them back in. The "injured" or dying fish look. Brad