Brad in Texas

Ha! I'm with you regarding buying expensive jigs and having to make serious modifications with drills and JB weld. I do applaud the original poster for making it better. So, I took a look and found that Fin-Tech also makes a "shorty" version with a ring to hold its plastic retainer. I'd likely just remove it and screw on an Owner CPS (centering pin) in the medium size. Gosh, they work so well and I believe it'd likely hold the plastics better than the stock keeper and, at the same time, increase the "bite down" range the fish will encounter for better hook-ups. Nice jigs and I plan to pick up a few of these Fin-Techs based on y'all's recommendations, so thanks for putting me on to these! Brad

I plan to give it a go, likely will order a spool for a spinning reel on my next order. What interests me is the idea that they are adding strands of braid fiber material into the "mix" to make the copolymer, that it likely acts like re-bar or fiberglass strands added to concrete mixes. It looks like it could be a good line for many applications. I'll likely use it for drop shot rigs. Start there, see how it behaves. Brad

Using ultralight tackle, smaller lures, will almost always net out some nice bass for anglers targeting panfish and other fish species that require lighter gear. I rarely fish for bluegills and don't catch a few bass. Where I'd recommend its use is in conditions when fishing is super tough. Just in general, spinning tackle, used correctly, almost always takes more time to land a fish and you will be adding to the time it takes if you use light lines and a drag set accordingly. For LMBs in real life, I doubt there are many circumstances where they do anything hard enough to exhaust themselves so it is not a natural state to them to be pooped out, full of lactic acid. Unlike SMBs and some others, LMBs don't operate as often in hard currents where it takes a lot of energy to move and/or hold position. So, they do tire, a larger LMB will, after being played well on spinning tackle. I think the off-set would be to release them faster, make certain they are fully revived. Brad

All of the above! I'd only add that, technically, your gripping hand where your fingers are split on each side of the reel support arm . . . should never move. It stays put . . . so it spends no time down on the grip. Your reeling hand, of course, operates the reel handle, operates the anti-reverse lever, manages the bail and often makes adjustments to the drag knob. It, too, spends little time down on the grip. With my split grips, I am like the others where I drop my reeling hand down low for that added casting leverage. I make my cast and my hand comes back up immediately to manage the reel, the line going out. Brad

I use 10 lbs. braid to 8 lbs. fluorocarbon for most of my finesse spinning tackle rigs. It has a lot of "little" advantages where and how I fish. I do totally agree that in many presentations, many places, fluorocarbon leaders are of little value. The "why" behind it? I think fluorocarbon would never have survived as a main line in the market place; it'd have failed. Pros? Perhaps so . . . as they most often get their lines for free under sponsorships so they can put fresh line on frequently. Still, most people just don't like the way fluorocarbon behaves as a main line. Same thing, too, for straight braid and its few inconvenient aspects. Finally, price, compared to today's much-improved monofilaments and co-polymers. It is pretty high. So, for its tiny advantages, fluorocarbon ends up being relegated to short leaders for most of us. And, we replace them often. I'd never use these beyond one day out and I re-tie my terminal knots often, sometimes even the junction knot a time or two on the water. If the new co-polymers get much better, for example something like Sufix Advantage and many others, fluorocarbon might take a big hit in market penetration. Brad

I have only caught one DD. It felt "heavy" and it felt "sluggish" as a 10+ bass is an old fish. I caught a 24" bass two weeks ago. How did she fight? She literally came to the surface and sort of stuck her head out of the water and fell over. She made one run as I reeled her near my kayak. Weak and conversion charts indicate she weighed about 8.5 lbs. I think the best fighters for LMBs are the 4 to 6 pounders, sort of in that weight range. They are in peak form, maybe the equivalent in people years to someone in their early 20s. Brad

There are other length to weight calculators that consider girth and they are better. But, this TPWD conversion chart is what I use. If the bass is really beefy, you'd add some weight; if it is skinny, subtract a bit. Brad Length to estimated weight

My wife snapped a photo of me holding out a St. Croix 5'6", M power, fast tip rod. This will show everyone there is no "tucking it under your arm" opportunity. The handle just extends back a few inches beyond my wrist when I am holding it with 2 fingers forward and back of the reel post. From a kayak, I use this almost exclusively to pitch drop shots short distances, 10 lbs. braid to an 8 lbs. leader. I rarely flip them out more than 50 feet. When I glide up to docks, I often use a side hand fling to get it well back and underneath. So, like most spinning reels, I use the drag setting to allow a fish to flex my rod. My hand and wrist never "buckle" or feel like they are over-tasked as the drag limits the exposure. I suppose it could be an issue for some . . . not having the butt end held fast by the underside of the forearm (what I do on larger rods) or under an arm. This is my "never leave home without it" rod. The accuracy is off the charts, the M power more than adequate for most situations. Brad

I'd certainly agree to most anything Gary Yamamoto makes as being quality, creating great outcomes. One way you know this to be true? He has been able to command a premium price for a very long time. Deservedly. ***His fishing resort is about 15 miles from my home in east Texas. I need to go out there some day!!! The others? Several things work well for me on my drop shot, none though do as consistently well as a small Roboworm. For soft swimbaits, sort of like Yamamoto's line-up, there is nothing in the Keitech line I don't like. I've tried and even liked scores of other plastics, though rarely return to them after a go or two using them, not like I do my primary three. Brad

I see other responses. A Hobie PA kayak, some of the Native Titans, the large Old Town Predator and others of this size (all made of HDPE and have a bilge area) are all over 100 lbs., some well over that. But kayaks, like canoes, are narrow and most of us use customized carts to move the heavier ones around. So, something usually 3 and a fraction feet wide and 12 to 14 feet long in a kayak is usually 100 lbs. or more with a seat and pedal system. A Hobie PA 14 is half again that much. So, I also have a Meyers Sportspal S-15, I think the world's greatest fishing/hunting canoe, and it is made out of alumnum and it weighs 67 lbs. It is about 38" wide not counting a foam boat collar and just over 15 feet in length. A single skin of aluminum, too, of course, no "bilge" area, no scupper holes. Owing to its shape and weight, these are easy to car top, to hand carry down to the water, etc. Rated for 5 HP, or a TM or just paddling. Brad

The advantage is it makes the vessel a bit more puncture proof, more structural rigidity if that is a required factor, too. This vessel, in essence, has a bilge area between a floor and its hull bottom like larger boats. The foam has absolutely nothing to do with improving the vessel's flotation other than if it were punctured by a sharp rock, there'd be less area in the "bilge" for water to encroach. The foam between the two plastic "skins" is intended to give the floor of the vessel some rigidity, else it might "oil can" and flex under under weight. The plastic used for most small vessels, including kayaks, is HDPE of various qualities. Lots of fun to fish from if you are getting one of the better brands! Brad

Glenn, I thought the video was very comprehensive. I watched to whole thing . . . caught those last few comments! I'd seen the trick about starting the hook in the traditional manner up at the nose, but removing it and letting the path you penetrated be used to back the hook eye back up and into place . . . to avoid ripping up the plastic with a keel weighted hook passing through it. Glad to see you showed that tip. Lake Athens, here in Texas, is full of lily pads and I actually have my best luck throwing out paddle tails trying to land on one of the pads, then wiggle it and let it drop off the leaf hoping a bass is lurking below looking for a quick meal. Weightless and weedless works best for me though I might try a very light keel weight to get it down quicker. Glenn, with all of the new hooks out now, Roboworm Rebarb hooks, some Owners and others, with a bait keeper device up high on the hook to hold the plastic? I do the same thing when T-Rigging plastics. I don't wait and "turn" the plastic at the end where it'd tear up a lot of plastic, I twist (turn) the plastic the way I want it before pushing it up and over the keeper. Less damage to the plastic, holds better. I think it makes a difference especially on some of the fragile worms I often use for drop shots. Brad

I really like the Owner Pivot Head in 1/8th oz. size. It comes in both an EWG and a straight shank. I prefer the latter. No, though it is advertised as a superior swim jig creating extra wiggle and action, I like to fish it on the bottom with a worm that has a floating tail. I hop it around like a T-Rigged worm. I can't say why but if feels totally different to me than a true T-Rigged worm with a nose weight. Softer, I guess. It also seems not to hang up as much. Brad

It just depends on so many factors, anchor weights. But, just a general observation that unless you are fishing in strong currents or windy conditions, for most kayaks not built like kites (ha!), 3 lbs. will often do the trick. On my Big Rig, I used about an 18" piece of chain but I don't recall its gauge. I'd say it weighed something less than 3 lbs. Some tricks, too, to learn. One is that on really windy days, if you'll position yourself on the leeward side of any islands, there is usually a dead spot in the water and you can cast to the active water or its edge. Too, on sharp points sticking out, there'll be one side with waves, right around the corner, deader water. Under dams when the wind is blowing overhead, fish the rip-rap. Coves, especially tree-lined ones where the wind is blowing over perpendicular to it. Pull up and glide into lily pads, other vegetation and you will find that it "arrests" the wave action. You can sit in the weeds and fish the weed line. Finally, don't forget that in circumstances where you can get out of your kayak, do it. On rivers, there are almost always gravel banks to stand on, on lakes there are endless shorelines inaccessible to bank fishermen. Lots of places like these to walk around and stretch out. Brad P.S. Be sure and buy a bush clip. I attach them to standing timber, little stumps, even a lily pad stem. br

So many good comments already, good advice. I'll mention what I find valuable, some over-lap with others. 1) If you fish seated, for now, a Backwater Assault Hand Paddle is indispensable. I use it in my Propel 10 to make tiny adjustments, my canoe, too; 2) Unless the anchor line attachment (like a Harken pulley), whatever is last in contact with the vessel, is more or less exactly off the bow or the stern, wind and current will swing your kayak a bit through an arc. Even a tiny offset "*****" your vessel a bit and the wind and current will take advantage of this to push against it. Not a big deal normally, but expect this. And, it is very hard to get the anchor line with an anchor trolley mounted all the way forward or back on most kayaks unless you attach something centered; 3) A stake-out pole is super effective in the shallows, say up to 8 feet. I prefer it to an anchor. I agree with others that anchors are better for deeper water kayaking. And, a heavy chain is often the best choice over many anchor designs and shapes. ***One very effective substitute for a traditional anchor is an old heavy rod, an old large casting reel, some really strong braid in a large test, what, 100/200 lbs.? Just hang it over the side where you want the anchor or chain to drop, then let it fall to the bottom. Use the reel to let out whatever amount of line you desire. If you mount one of the attachments (see below) off the very back center of your kayak, and if you are flexible in your torso to twist around, just use your rod to guide the line into the anchor guide. Set the reel to no drag, find a place to secure it. When you are ready to leave, just reverse the process and reel up the anchoring device. Brad