Lead Head

This might sound a bit asinine, but it isn't intended that way. I'm not trolling. Shouldn't proper cast control knob adjustment eliminate line getting between the spool and frame on any reel? I don't typically use line that light so it's possible that is why I've never ran into this issue.

You are going to want to pull the batteries for sure. If you don't already have lithium, you might consider breaking down and paying the extra. It's nice that they don't add as much weight to the boat on the water, but it's super nice that they don't weigh as much when you need to pull them out of the boat every trip.

Because of where and how I fish, I didn't use spinning rods much. After getting a couple BFS spools, I don't use them at all. I'll give a generalized answer based on my personal opinion. Anything bottom contact- Point Blank (NFC X-ray is my second choice) Moving baits- NFC Delta (American Tackle Bushido is my second choice) @Logan S gave the correct answer

My current lineup of reels on rods getting regular use: 2 Alphas SV105 2 Steez 100h 1 Steez 100sh TDZ 103h TDX 105h 1 SV103 4 SS SV (all have Zillion or Steez gears with good drag) 1 21 Zillion All have carbontex and upgraded bearings, levelwind bearing add on the reels that didn't already have them.

Lol, I'm the opposite of most people. E series has all the color choices I need... black and gray. Everything I paint will be some combination of black and gray (MAYBE some silver). I'm one of those boring old farts that only wants dark neutral colors. I actually bought black line guides from the alphas ct for my sv105 reels because I couldn't stand the red. If I didn't have several magnesium reels that desperately need to be sealed up I wouldn't be so set on getting into cerakote. You talked me out of C, and since I only need black, gray, and maybe titanium, I might as well go E over H. I think I can rig up a oven that will hit 300 with a heat gun and temperature controller. If my redneck oven idea works, I'll have everything but the actual cerakote on hand. I'm hoping to have everything that needs to be sealed done in the next few weeks, then I can decide if I'm doing a good enough job cosmetically to justify doing the rest of my reels. Edit to add: My reels get direct sunlight 10-15 hours a week about 10 1/2 months of the year, sitting on the boat while I'm fishing.

I'm currently stuck trying to decide between C and E series. C is no bake, takes 7 days to fully cure, is UV stable, and is the least durable. E needs a 300 degree bake (plastic gets 150-180 for more time), is less UV stable, but is possibly the most durable paint/coating option available. The reels I paint will be used a lot. I'm trying to figure out if I'm better off with less durable, or less UV stable.

I'm currently in the process of accumulating everything I need to do this. Cerakote is pretty involved if done correctly. It requires a lengthy cleaning/prep process, blasting with specific media and grit, and oven curing. It's way tougher than any paint and is applied so thin that it won't have the tolerance problems of auto paint and clear. I'm still a good way off from a first attempt but it's going to happen.

In my opinion, it's about equally manageable and a solid step up in every other way.

Definitely try a Point Blank if you like high end stuff and don't already have one.

If I'm understanding correctly, you will be fishing at or below the visibility line (for humans) in cover. I would approach it the same as overcast conditions. Natural leaning to dark, or natural leaning to bright/contrasting colors. I make my own skirts and would start off green pumpkin with a little dark green pumpkin on the back and watermelon on the belly. Then use trailers to switch between darker/brighter colors that are commonly successful in your area. 90% of my fishing is in water about the color and consistency of a Yoohoo, but we vacation 2 weeks every year on a lake that is pretty clear for around here. This is how I approach it. I find that a natural colored jig leaning to dark presents effectively in almost any condition with the right trailer.

You could use tip top adhesive. It holds pretty good, and light heat softens it up. Personally, I would sand contact areas and use something permanent (epoxy), but that's just me.

I have had my eye on that kit, but don't swap inductors enough to justify it. Rays ramp on left, broken stock ramp on right (feet sheared off). The Rays ramp is thinner than stock, time will tell how it holds up.

I didn't take any in the process, but I'll get some of all the parts and finished swap after work tonight. I stumbled across a SV103 on ebay listed as "used, with a rough spot when reeling". I bought it thinking it would need new bearings and possibly gears. The thing looked like it had been fished hard for years with regular spray downs in WD40. It was gunky everywhere that wasn't easily wiped off. The drag was so tight I almost needed tools to get it loose. When finally freed up the "rough spot" went away. After a full tear down and cleaning (grease on gears was nearly solid) it is flawless mechanically, however the inductor ramp on the spool was broken. I already had the rays kit on hand to try on a SS SV spool, so the kit went on the SV103 spool and the SS spool went to the SV103. I'm very pleased with how it all turned out.

Bit of a project reel. Has a sv103 spool with rays inductor. It's a absolute pleasure on the water.

Most of my baitcasters have 30lb 832. Jigs and frogs get 40lb 832 or #4pe (sunline is all I have tried so far). I use 14lb sniper for a fc leader, and 16lb supernatural for mono (top water). I run a 25# sniper leader on my jig rod most of the time so I can pick my jig through the razor edged chunk rock all over my pool of the AR river without spending a fortune on line and jigs.