Dirtyeggroll

I figured such. It’s not something I need done now, but it will be time before next season.

On Saturday I fished a new lake and caught 38 bass in 3.5 hours. The biggest was a 14" smallmouth just under 2 pounds. I've fished for 12 hours and only caught one 4 pounder and felt more satisfied. Not saying its right or wrong or that I'm not happy catching lots of fish, but I'd trade 100 1-2 lbers for a single 4+ lber... You throw some 3 lbers into the 1-2 lb mix and then I might tell you something different. Zero is a number...

Anyone have a recommendation of someone/somewhere in the KC area to replace a water pump? I know its not a hard job and I could do it, but I'd rather spend that time fishing.

I’m a Ranger fanboy and I’d say pass on that 519. 1) That price is a “too good to be true deal.” 2) When it comes to a bass boat you plan to use as a fishing rig, don’t buy someone else’s problem/project. If it needs a wiring harness and a new lower unit then it likely missed out on some other key maintenance. For me, “needs a new _______” is generally a big red flag.

It hasn’t been so much the things that go “bump” as much as it has been the things that go “buzz” that have been my biggest obstacle in fishing at night.

Almost forgot to add... Had some fab work done on the trailer because I moved and the garage was only 20’ deep. The boat will now fit in there with the motor up on the transom saver.

Alternatively we can fish in separate boats and compete for the ultimate trophy.

Thanks Russ! I think I am going to put mine in the same place but below the top cap. Holler at me if you have an empty seat and want a net man this week. Actually, if anyone wants a net man this week, I am probably available to provide my services. :))

Here’s a stupid question - can anyone inform me of WHERE the WYCO boat permit sticker is supposed to be adhered? Picture(s) would be great :)) Thanks for your help.

I have (2017) info that suggests otherwise. A lot can happen in three years though.

Anyone have access to Lake Tapawingo or know what it takes to rent/lease a lot to get fishing rights?

Since Thanksgiving I have “adopted” a whole group of Bald Eagles driving back and forth from Omaha to Kansas City on I-29. At one point around Christmas time there were about 20 of them in the same tree. A few weeks ago you could see some of the chicks bobbing their little heads around. It’s been pretty awesome. I see at least 4 on every trip.

Drove out to Wyandotte county today to try and get all of the necessary permits. Didn’t fish but the water was very clear and saw several fish hanging out in the grass around the docks. Looks like a fun little place to fish.

Well technically is was my fishing partner's lure that he had just broke off on a hookset, and technically I didn't catch the lure directly.

Fortunately, because of its size it only functions as a jack stand for now. I have to use a floor jack to get it off of the trailer.

I wouldn’t call it a work of art. But it achieves the goal and the welds are solid. He didn’t really give me a chance to tell him that aesthetics were important to me and if I were to do it again, I’d hammer that point home and I’m sure he’d do a great job. I’m also not sure what he was thinking with the jack he put on there (it doesn’t lower the boat low enough to set on the ball of my truck and the caster is no good). In an e-mail I sent him with pictures of what I wanted to achieve I may have used “ASAP” which I believe he took quite literally. He said he’d cut the jack off so I could replace it with whatever I want. I spent a few minutes yesterday prepping and coating the bare metal with chassis undercoat. When it’s all painted black, the flat bar isn't quite as much of an eye sore. Most importantly, my boat now fits in the garage pulling straight back with the motor up!

The third wire is a “drain wire” to move electricity/interference out way from the power wires. It is the black wire that is not tinned. Humminbird is having some issues with what they are suggesting to do with the wire. Originally they were saying just tape it off (which from a physics of electricity perspective, seems like the right thing to do), then some people had some issues with electrolysis/corrosion of the screws in the M360 pod and someone at HB must have suggested that this was due to the open “drain wire” so then HB revised their suggestion to connect the drain wire to the ground. Now they are again suggesting to just tape the drain wire off and put it to the side. I taped mine off and am not having any issues. I am biased, but from a physics of electricity perspective this is the correct thing to do. Thus, it is what I suggest and what HB currently suggests. If you want to learn more go read about “drain wires and RFI”. Good luck. Happy to try answer any additional questions.

I run 20-lb on my deep jig rod, which occasionally doubles as a pitcher/flipper. Personally, I like fluorocarbon more as it goes up in size. Seems to me like the slack line sensitivity goes up with higher # tests and the extra weight of the line IMO makes it easier to pitch/flip where I want to/better control.

Got a call from Harrison and my trailer is done! Took less than 24 hours from the time of drop off at around 4 PM yesterday until 2 o’clock when he called me and told me it was ready today.Said he shortened it by 17”! With a little luck I’ll be getting out on the water on Tuesday.

Does anyone have a dock where I could leave the boat for a couple days while the trailer work is being done? Or does anyone have any other simple suggestions for getting the boat off of the trailer?

Great job! That new 250 Pro XS ought to bring that thing out of the water

Fortunately, I have a buddy with the same boat/trailer that has had it done somewhere else and gave me a bunch of pictures. Monte at Harrison said he could do it for a measly $250.

Whaaa???? Somehow, with some maneuvering it barely fits with no mods. I’m still going to take it over to Harrison so they can fabricate it for the swing tongue... but I figured I’d share.

My opinion is to pick a battery that can easily be replaced locally. If it fails, I want to replace it (under warranty), right now so I have the opportunity to salvage the day. Personally, I went with the Duracell 31AGM batteries due to price, availability (Sams and Batteries Plus), warranty 18-30 months and reputation of the manufacturer (East Penn/Deka). Optima batteries in general are easy to find (most auto parts stores/BPS/Cabelas). I know 10 years ago when I was really into minitrucks the Optima battery was the gold standard for running audio and other car electronics systems. When I purchased my boat 18 months ago it had 27AGM BlueTops with a stamp of 4/17 and one failed over the winter while on the charger in Spring of '18 (less than a year old). I can't speak to how the battery was maintenanced, but when I was looking to replace it (and the rest to match age). It seemed there were plenty of equal or better batteries for much less cost. If I weren't going with AGM batteries, I would go to Walmart or O'reilly's/Autozone/NAPA and pick the cheapest battery with the AH and RC that fit my needs. One of the most overlooked components in how long a battery will last is the charger maintenance. Even a "cheap" battery can last a long time (several years) if appropriately kept charged and not overly discharged.

You can get an amazing boat for that budget if you search around a bit. I'd keep it 1995 or newer... But thats just because thats the year my favorite boat maker started making more modern bass boats (bigger deck, better storage layouts, etc). As already stated, in general its best to stay away from wooden transoms, stringers and decks. A fiberglass boat that is truly that (and not partly wood) is going to be less likely to have the issues associated with wood in those places. That being said, there are probably partially wooden boats out there that are in great shape, but if it were me, I wouldn't even mess with it. As a matter of fact, about 18 months ago when I was looking for a boat, it was something I used to exclude boats. Just research whatever boat peaks your interest. As far as motors are concerned, my thought is that the older the motor you get, the more you want something that has generically available parts or manufacturer and is easy to work on. When I was approaching buying a 20 plus year old motor I went about it thinking as if I would eventually have to rebuild the entire thing (which has been the exact opposite case so far, knock on wood).