Bassattackr

Having owned both of those Loomis rods, both will be horribly underpowered for an A rig. And too short IMO. I prefer to use the E6X 7'4" Heavy / Moderate Swimbait rod personally for a Jr size A rig. But of the 3 you listed, I'd go for the Dobyns for the ease of casting. But I believe their actions run on the lighter side as well, probably too underpowered also..

You're going to have a serious amount of scale and algae leaving a boat in the water for very long.. Hull, lower unit, prop, you name it.

I normally flip with flourocarbon, so I prefer the Owner Wide Gap Plus or the VMC Ike Heavy Wide Gap Hook.

Outkast 4/0 jighead is no problem for me on a 3.8. Even 10" spots don't have a problem eating it. Caught close to 50 the last couple weeks, haven't lost one yet. The Megabass body balance head uses a 4/0 or 5/0 can't recall, works well also. I think the length of the hook shank has more to do with impeding the action than the hook size/gap.

Guessing if it has a good smallmouth population, the water clarity is probably at least 2-3 feet, if not a lot more. Combine that with water temps around 49 degrees, and I'm with A-jay. I'm going to have a jerkbait, jig and an A-Rig tied on and the rest of the rods in the rod locker. Start out on main lake points and work your way in until you find them.

Bingo, you're lugging the motor with your current setup. Check on the motor mount what your max RPMs are for that motor (5600?). All else equal, one pitch down equals a gain of 200 RPM at WOT. You want to me close or at your max in winter (cold air, cold water). See if you can test a 20p and 21p and go from there. Your boat will come alive, I wouldn't change anything else. (Ignore my previous posts, I had assumed you had the right prop before..) Good luck! Fair enough. I should have specified - four blades typically carry loads better resulting in better bow lift.

Then I would use a mono leader. The thicker (heavier) you go, the slower the fall will be.

Revo STX4 for me. I have close to a dozen, I personally like them.

It's all over the place honestly. A 3/8oz Jackhammer is a lot lighter than a 3/8oz Chatterbait Elite. Jigheads are no different..

1) No hard and fast rules here. Just be considerate, I try to do the same. If you hang up once every hour or so, no big deal. If I have to circle back every 5-10 minutes, then as a boater it gets old fast and distracts from my fishing. On the flip side, I used to fish as a coangler and no one is expected to be perfect. As others have mentioned, if you're way off behind the boat with a shakey head, just break it off and tie on a new one. If your Vision 110 is on a dock cable, it would be take a real jerk not to go back and get it for you! 2) Not wrong but.. don't take it personal if the boater isn't interested. The most annoying thing for a boater is drawing a coangler and 2 minutes into meeting him he wants to know how many fish you're on, I got a spot where my buddy and I whacked them here yesterday, etc, etc.. It's a running joke in most circles. Personally speaking, I bought a boat to make my own decisions, game plan, etc. You don't like it, don't enter or step up to the pro side yourself. On the flip side, I've had a few boaters ask in my coangler days and contributed before. So as a general rule, I'd say keep those kinds of things to yourself unless asked. If they're that desperate they may ask. 3) I agree with you 100%. Even as a boater, I generally don't even attend these anymore.. Have fun and good luck!

It's a boat, things are going to fail or break. This coming from someone who the last two bass boats I've owned have been bought brand new. Yes, they are expensive. More expensive than you think.. Marine environment is hard on everything. Worth it? Right now, for me yes. Only you can decide..

You are 100% correct. A 4 blade will give you more lift, but I would still raise one slot on the motor mount. One hole up likely won't be enough to offset the lift you "created" with the 4 blade but it will help get RPMs up higher to where the motor needs to run at WOT. As a second point to this recommendation, comparable 4 blade props like to run 1/4"-1/2" higher than 3 blades anyway. You could also use trim extender tabs to get more lift with your current setup. I had these put on an older champion and it helped extend the useable range of the trim if your boat is still plowing at full trim. Your comment of your boat pushing more water the faster you go seems odd, I'm not sure how to interpret that. There should be a trim "sweet spot" where your boat runs the fastest with a given load. An aluminum boat typically only porpoises if it is over trimmed. Which leads me to believe you don't have enough trim or lift for your setup because you can't get there, even at full trim. If it were me, I would try the trim tabs first (budget solution), swap the prop next and lastly move the motor up one notch if your RPMs with the new prop are still a touch low. Hope that helps.

You're just reeling in slack as you drag it, don't overthink it - 7:1..

1) No defined "window" of speed where you get bow lift. That is a function of motor height, setback, boat load, etc.. 2) No, if the bow were to "fall" you would get porposing, not a steady "plow" thru the water. 3) Moving the motor UP, DECREASES bow lift. Moving the motor down increases bow lift. Questions for you: - Do you have a jackplate on the boat, or is the motor directly mounted to the transom? - Given your 22P prop, what are your RPMs at WOT?

Best advice on this thread. ?