LONGEARS

It's not so much the lure but where you put it. We fish in a very weedy river the bass see lots of plastics but not to many cranks.A well placed cast where cranks are seldom seen is VERY productive

I thought it would be a good discussion.For the record I have tried braid in heavy cover situations. Didn't like the performance as we fish in Canada.(clear water)On the other hand a lot of my friends use braid because of the large pike count in the area.They are very hard on lures! Time and time again my strike count with P-line is higher than others as well as my catch ratio. I understand my equipment and how it works as a unit and enjoy fishing based on my own defined rules.So my trophys are special not only because I caught them them but by how I caught them. Thank-you all for your imput and good fishing to all.

As I read the post on line types, I can't help to wonder where is the sport in having a cable tied to the bass? Is the art of fighting fish lost because of braided line? When you hook the BIG one don't you need the thrill of knowing the outcome is still in doubt? Should braided line be restricted as a fish management tool? The answers will be interesting and all discussion is good.

Because Bass fishing is a thinking man's game.

Braided line on a reel is not as smooth or quiet as mono or flo or a hybred and much more so than a empty reel on a store counter

Just remember; You can always tell a member of peta,You just can't tell them MUCH!

I'm backing Catt on this one.I had foot control for years as I got older I got more and more tired of standing on one foot.Then arthritis struck (Knees And Ankles) next came a hand control bow mount.I have no problem keeping my hands fishing and I have extended my time on the water due to increased comfort.Not to mention less clutter on the Skeeters deck. I can also remember my 1st time with foot control so lets just say there is no learning curve with hand control

Just to add to the topic, if memory serves you move the tab against the steering pull and I don't thing you should remove the tab as a lot of them also serve to attract oxidents as they are cheaper and eas ;ier to replace than the rest of the lower unit and prop.

I have used snaps for years.The snap replaces different types of loop knots which allow the lure to wobble to full effect,Therefore there is no need to remove the split rings.Just run them like they are designed

The only problem I have with my Shimanos.The names are hard to pronounce!

I have used cranks for years and there is as many effective presentations as there fish.These lures work through the whole water table,top to bottom and anything in between so when you hear that you must do this or that (banging into cover is only one option) just listen to the bass.They will tell you what needs to be done. I have carried my worm box and spinners in the Skeeter for years and never had to resort to using them.There is a crankbait solution for every bass situation.

Matt Fly is on the right track.It is said that practice makes perfect but the truth is THINKING about the practice makes perfect. Every lure runs a little different and every fish acts a little different but it is the trend or pattern that is important. Take a few moments aftr a catch or miss and ask yourself these questions 1.How deep was the water 2.How deep was the lure 3.How fast was I reeling 4.What type of retrieve was I using 5.Boat moving with wind or against 6.Maybe most important,What is different now.

The condesation is caused by the batteries heating up as they are charging and you just made a great case for gel batteries.Be sure to clean boat throughly because that acid is in there somewhere eating something!

Just to touch on land practice the reason some do better on water is that water gives when stopping the lure land doesn't.So therefore the line stops faster on land than water and the spool just keeps on going and going and going.(Think battery Bunny)

A unbiased opinion won't be forthcoming because everyone has thier favorite.My is a bowmounted 55lb hand controlled minnkota.As far as the transducer mount a 17 foot boat in deep water the cone on a regular mount will cover enough to keep you on a edge and in shallow water the point is moot.

I have an older Bass boat and I've had it since new.The depth finder was updated due to accident and the trolling motor was changed from foot control to hand for persnal reasons.The rest is orginal and I have no problems because I LOOK AFTER IT.Which is the key to the whole thing and you should be aware that Bass boats have a distinct advantage over other boats in that time on the water does not equal time on the main motor.My merc only runs 15-30 mins per 8 hr fishing day.In 12 yrs I have only replaced the fuel pump gaskets and regular maintenance. I also have the privalge of fishing with my wife.She started out sunbathing on the back deck,decided she would get a better tan standing up and now is a dedicated fisherwoman.Neat eh!

My favorite is a bullfrog coloured pop-r and one we use here locally in and around surface weeds is a grey weedlees rubber mouse

I said earlier that I believe it is change that affects the bass,I also believe Matt Fly Is right in saying that there is two populations of fish in a lake (although I would suggest three,Deep,Shallow, and transitional)and that pressure affects them all differently

HPBB I've fished both those lakes many times.The water is a little hard right now,but we have hopes. Longears

It is interesting to note the amt. of people to put line on with out tension.I was taught awhile ago (Oh alright so it was along time ago)to put line on with tension on the fill spool.To that end I either use something called a line minder or if I have help I thread line through all guides,have helper with spool on a screwdriver and gloves on stand back a few feet and crank the line on.The line lies properly on the spool with no line twist.This is also why I never reel in loose line when fishing.If there is no lure to provide tension or for any reason I supply tension with my fingers.This little hint when applied to baitcasters will help people getting unexplained birdnests.

Sometimes I think we decide we want to catch fish but not how we want to.Nowadays I fish mainly cranks.I have done the whole worm thing and still take my worm box with me.I just never use it because somewhere along the line I decided I wanted to catch Bass on Cranks.So now when I am not ,I spend my time and talent on choosing the crankbait presentation for those circumstances and adjust untill I catching with cranks.

I agree Bass don't care what the weather is as long as it stays the same.This also holds true with water depth.

I can attest to the fact that these theorys are misguided.Lots of Bass and Pike here in the Rideau River where it is quite common to catch a Bass than a Pike on alternating casts.Bass do not feed on bluegill alone so thier presences is not nessacary.

I use Mann's a lot and I find Manns minnus one (green sparkles ,white belly,red spot)runs shallower than the baby (baby bass colour hot,hot,hot).So both great lures used on different water

I read the choices above and find it interesting how relative the term shallow can be.I consider Mann's minus 1 a favorite shallow crank well as the bandit lures. You may want to try this for fun when you are fishing shallow.Cast the lure and let it sit on a semi-tight line, wait,twitch,reel it down and in then let float up.Repeat.It's kind of a cross between topwater and shallow cranking and can get some serious results.Oh yeah it's fun too