redmexican5081

The bullfrog sunscreen with bug repellent has been my go to for years. I'm light skinned with red hair so sunscreen is part of my daily routine. If I'm fishing its always bullfrog

the article said they believe the fish was from the initial stocking of the lake in 1966

No experience with a kayak and this cart but this is the way we would transport our small sailing boats to and from the waters edge to the boathouse at my college. They worked great. They pulled effortlessly and were super stable. The only complaint was when retrieving, the tires would float the cart and sometimes if it was windy you'd have to adjust once it was on dry land. I doubt this would be too much of an issue with the weight of a kayak though.

I've had great luck with the Berkley Powerbait pogy swim shad 2" in basically all the colors.

Love my canoe, love my boat too. Different tools for different jobs. If I can't launch the boat I can carry in the canoe. Stability is remedied with some PVC and Mt. Dew bottles. My weight is offset with a bucket of water in the front if I can't get one or more of my kids to come with.

Creme topwater in sexy shad. Its only ~3" long and the bass in my local pond smash it.

IIRC, cone diameter is ~1/2 the depth for most 2D sonar units. In shallow water, if you are moving, by the time you see the arch on the screen that fish is behind you, left right or anywhere in between It passed through the cone to register on the screen but only the pixels being filled at the very right hand side of a scrolling display will show you real time information.

You are reeling to take up as much slack in the line as you can. When you feel the weight of the fish, lift the rod to set the hook. If you are free lining a bait, how would you set the hook? When you feel tension on the line you set it correct? It is the same with a bobber setup. The difference is the bobber provides an extra spot for your line to be tight against that is not the hook. Reeling up until the line is tight to the hook and then setting should help you catch more.

TM wiring: Positive terminal on the battery to one side of the circuit breaker, from the other terminal on the circuit breaker to the positive lead for the TM if you are protecting the TM with the breaker. Negative lead of the TM to the negative terminal on the battery. Yak wiring: Positive terminal on the battery to one side of a circuit breaker(different from TM breaker), from the other terminal on the circuit breaker to the positive lead for the yak plug. Negative lead of the yak plug to the negative terminal on the battery. Don't get the two systems wired together through the same breaker, the TM needs much higher amperage than you will want running through your yak system wires.

Gas leaking out when you add additional pressure by squeezing the ball might also mean air being sucked in when the motor is drawing by itself. It might be time to replace the gaskets.

The only way you're fishing a lure the wrong way is if you limit yourself to "it needs to be fished this way". Look at some of the more productive techniques with worms. Who in their right mind would have thought to rig it sideways for a wacky presentation? Someone did and it flat out catches. If it catches fish it is never the wrong way.

650 miles is a long time in the seat pulling a trailer if you are new to doing it. Unlike driving where you can do it at 70-75 on the highway, towing should be kept to a lower speed. The maximum I will tow at is 65. Over the short distances this only means a few extra minutes in the truck. Over 650 miles you might be adding an extra hour or so to that trip. Also, do you know how your mileage will change pulling a trailer and having the extra weight of 3 guys and their gear? Others have also said wheel bearings and I would agree on that, along with a spare tire for the trailer and the proper tools and jack to get the tire off if you have issues.

Yes your Garmin units can all be networked together assuming they have the Ethernet ports. You will need a network hub. The GMS 10 Network hub and cables should be all you need but there is a member on Bassresource that was making his own hubs for significantly less than what Garmin charges

What are your expectations? The helix should be able to show 2d sonar if your motorguide Xi5 is equipped with sonar. There is an adapter cable available from motorguide. If you want anything more than that, you need to switch brands of motor or fish finder. Humminbird with Minnkota or Lowrance with Motorguide

I ran a Promariner 20 amp 3 bank gen 3 for almost 2 years before it started acting up, a quick call and over the phone troubleshooting got me going temporarily, there is an issue with the charge mode selection cap on some of the units. It was still under the 2 year warranty and the tech noted I had called about the same issue earlier when it acted up for the second time. A new gen 4, HD 20 amp 3 bank was sent out the same day as my call. This new unit comes with a 3 year warranty. I was disappointed my unit died in under 2 years but support was excellent to deal with and they stand behind their product.

I ran a full season switching between a boat and canoe with a similar fish finder. I used a piece of 1.5 x 1.5 angle aluminum that was ~2 feet long I got at Home Depot. I used a c-clamp on the transom of the boat and I mounted it to the stabilizer of my canoe with an exhaust clamp that fit the 4 inch pipe the stabilizer was built from. I never had any problems switching between the 2 different vessels.

83 and 200 kHz are the frequencies your traditional 2D sonar will use. This type of sonar is the cone shape, 83 will show a larger area but in less detail because more information needs to be represented on the screen. Typical cone angles are 60o for 83kHZ and this shows and area of about 1/2 the depth all around the transducer. In 10' of water you would see a circle 5' in front, 5' to each side, and 5' behind. When you switch to 200kHz the area shown will be decreased and the image quality better because the cone angle decreases from 60o to 20o. The area would be about 1/6 the depth of the water all around the transducer. Again at 10' of depth you would see ~1.6 feet in front, behind and to the sides. When you start using DI the same principles apply to the 455 and 800kHz. 455 will show a wider area but 800 will give better detail because it has to show less on the same screen size. The major difference between 2D and DI is 2D shows a cone and DI shows a narrow slice. There is not much information displayed in front or back of the transducer but there is more coverage to the sides. 2D is a cone shape and DI is more like a triangle. In 10' of water 455kHz will show you about 14' across and 800kHz will show you about 9'.

This is a personal preference thing. To me, a switch is easy enough to wire into your existing circuitry. Its just a wire from the + side of the battery to the switch then to the positive lead on the pump wiring. Switching out bilge pumps may be more time consuming assuming it is mounted and plumbed in a place where access may be difficult.

Do you dunk the boards before trying to load? Back in enough to completely submerge them then pull up to where you want to be to load.

Pool noodle and a bucket, always have one onboard but try to plan ahead and not need it while on the water

From your picture it looks like the transducer may be angled too high in the rear. I could be wrong but on my boat if the transducer isn't level with the waterline, like after I bump it off of something, it can have issues with getting a proper reading while at anything over idle.

My local spot has been slammed. It’s only 13 acres or so of water with one access point and the bridge where it empties out under a road. I drive by it 2x a day going to and from work. Every day there are at least 2 cars at the access point on my way in. On my way home, they are parked on both sides of the road and all for corners of the bridge. This little pond that only ever had people fish it during trout stocking season and maybe 2 or 3 of us regulars on the weekends is getting hammered with people. The trash is unbelievable and the fishing has dropped off significantly. I’ve never been skunked in this pond in the past but I haven’t caught a bass out of it the past 2 weekends. Even the crappie fishing has been tough enough that my kids have noticed it.

Does it give proper readings when you are not underway? Is there anything directly ahead of the transducer on the hull? A live well inlet or discharge, a hull strake, any other thru hull fitting? If you are only having the issue while moving, I’d say there is turbulence interfering with the signal.

When you do start a rewire on the trailer, consider spending a little extra and getting a quality harness for it. The harbor freight ones look great because of the price but the actual wire inside them will corrode away in about 2 years under regular usage. Nothing is worse than taking the time to rewire a trailer only to have to redo it in a few years because you tried to save some money on a cheap set of wires.