FrnkNsteen

I was at the local bait shops spring expo and swap last spring and a guy had a box of old Curado B's and E's he was selling. He had three 201 E7's he was selling for $75 a piece. I had never used a Curado E so I bought one. I put it on a Megabass Levante Diablo Spec for spinnerbaits and I really like it! Good reels. I see why everyone likes them. I wish I would have bought more. That being said, I wouldn't pay $150 - $200 for them though. Though I DID see the 51e someone mentioned above. Thought about it, but wasn't bidding on it when already at $179.

Personally,... I don't own a single spinning rig in Medium Heavy. I choose to use a Medium Light or Medium for the setups you mentioned. My suggestion would be to look at the lure ratings on the rods and see if they align to the lure weights you are considering. Might be a bit heavy for the Wacky and Neko setups, but may work for the finesse football jigs

I have not tried the new Tatula SV models. Given the technique informations you added,... My recommendations stand as stated above

I was thinking the same thing, but if the goal is to minimize backlash issues, I was thinking the SV Boost of the Zillion is more free and would allow more chances for backlash than the Tatula SV. I think if I were to look in a different direction and thinking JDM, I would consider the Alphas SV 800. Great cast control, smoother than any Tatula, and cheaper too!!

Another good little tip if you don't have an ultrasonic is put it in the container, then hold the container against a shaver, trimmer, or anything that vibrates. The vibrations will transfer to the container and mimics an ultrasonic, especially if it is glass. I use a small glass horseradish bottle and my cheap cordless mustache trimmer if I don't feel like digging out the ultrasonic bath. 😆😆 You can watch the crap come up out of the bearings. Careful though, some cleaning agents heat up under vibration from ultrasonics.

Since you didn't mention the techniques you will be using, I can only guess by the rod descriptions that you may be looking at a jig/worm rod for #1, maybe a Chatterbait/Spinnerbait rod for #2, and maybe a crankbait rod for #3? If you have your mind set on a Tatula and are focusing on cast control and backlash mitigation, it seems you are limited to the 2017 Tatula SV 103 TW with the larger CT frame or the smaller 2020 Tatula SV TW. Hard to tell you which to choose between the two because in my opinion it really boils down to how they fit your hand and what you like. You should be able to find the 2020 type framed reel (Tatula 100 or Tatula SV) at pretty much any tackle shop near you. The larger CT framed 2017 model may be more difficult as I believe it is only on the 2017 Tat SV and the Tatula CT. If my assessment of possible techniques above is accurate, maybe choose an 8 speed for rod #1, a 7 speed for rod #2, and a 6 speed for Rod 3. If rod #3 is for lighter stuff and you like smaller framed reels,... Maybe consider the smaller Tatula SV 70 for rod #3. It is smaller, lighter, and very good cast control.

Depends on what the seals are. I would imagine it could hurt the rubber seals like the orange ones you frequently see (Are they Bocas?). No issues on the stainless bearings with the metals shields. I don't even take the shields off much anymore.

@bulldog1935 So are you saying all the inductors with the same color anodize are the same, then they just adjust shims and return springs to tweak the braking profiles of different spool setups? If so, that is interesting. I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing. Now I need to go look at my different spools when I get home. Is that the same for shafted spools like the Tatula series, or just on the free floating spools?

In my opinion, the Daiwa SV system started with the early SV103 series available in the early to mid 2010's. The one I have is pretty heavily braked with the original floating SV spool. I believe the T3 SV reels were out around the same time, but had the unique Magforce 3D that was even more adjustable. My SV103 is a skipping machine with the factory spool, but is a little overbraked for regular casting to get good distance on other techniques. Unfortunately, neither the SV103 or T3 reels are available anymore or I would buy a handful. Daiwa then transitioned to the 2017 Daiwa Tatula SV 103 TW, which introduced the Twing and used the same CT frame used on the Tatula CT and the Tatula CT Type R. Those reels seemed to be the ones that really built a reputation for making skipping more controllable for people because the braking was heavy enough to really help mitigate backlashes. To the best of my knowledge, that 2017 Tatula SV103 TW is still in production and can still be purchased new. In 2020, Daiwa came out with a new model of the Tatula SV, simply called the Tatula SV TW, that had a new smaller frame. In my opinion, the braking loosened up a bit on that model, but people still say it is a good skipping reel, meaning it is braked heavily enough to help with backlashing. All the different models mentioned above probably come from the different gear ratios and right hand vs left hand versions of the 2017 and 2020 year models. In the end though, as others have stated above.... Avoiding backlashes is something you learn to control with thumb control, but there's no denying that a good braking system helps, and those Tatula SV reels are known for being braked heavily enough to help minimize issues. Hope this helps.

I've only broken a handful of rods over the years and most have been accidental, like getting caught in the truck bed or rod locker door, or maybe the ceiling fan in the hobby room. Only broken two rods while fishing. One was an older Fenwick HMX MF that broke when my wife set the hook on a smallie (that may or may not have been a rock) 😆😆. The other was when I stupidly grabbed the rod about 6" below the tip while landing a fish. The fish lunged and the tip snapped!! Oh.... I did smash one of my favorite Fenwick ET Smallmouth series rods under the support leg of the trolling motor. Found it right at the end of the day when we got back to the docks! That one hurt a bit!!

I put my bearings in a small glass jar then spray a little brake cleaner in there so I can swish them around to flush them out. That's for steel bearings only. I don't run ceramics. The rest of the reel gets wiped down, then cleaned as needed with some simple green.

If you like Dobyns,... What about a Dobyns Kaden 735CB? I've never used one, but cheaper than the Champ XP, it's 7'3" so approximately the length you were mentioning, and I hear people mentioning how much they like them. I've heard people saying they like them for a bladed jig rod too. Just a thought if you say you like Dobyns.

I have to agree the Curado MGL is a nice reel for the money. I have a Curado 151 MGL and 71 MGL and like them both. The SLX MGl 71 falls right in there with them too though!! As good as my Zillion???.... Hard for me to go that far, but the difference isn't huge. Kind of explains why I feel the rule of diminishing returns starts kicking in around that $150-$200 range. Going above that line starts to make you wonder if the gains in performance warrant the increase in price!

Personally, I choose to run a slower reel for the moving bait techniques mentioned in the OP. All of my Spinnerbait, Swim Jig, Chatterbait setups are various reels in the mid 5 to low 6 speed ratios. Couldn't tell you the exact IPT on any of those reels, but they consist of a couple old 5spd Calcutta 101s, TDZ 100ML, 103ML, a 2018 Bantam 6spd, and a couple TD Fuego 6spds.

I just looked and technically, you are right. The Zillion SV TW is currently $226, while the Bantam is $222 and the Scorpion DC is $208, but I don't consider that a significant difference. As for choosing between them. No way would I choose a Scorpion DC over the Zillion. The Zillion I have is smoother than my Bantam and the Curado DC I had, and from what I have read, the smoothness of the Zillion seems to hold up better than recent Shimano offerings, but I can't say that from personal experience. I just know my Zillion is smoother right now. According to specs on Digitaka, the Zillion weighs 6.2oz, while the Bantam weighs 7.8oz and the Scorpion weighs 7.9oz. All are good reels, but at least in my opinion, there are still grounds for choosing the Zillion over the Bantam or Scorpion DC,... Even if they are a few dollars cheaper.

I don't fish them as often as I probably should, but when I do, the above list is what I throw most and in the same order. Chrome with black back is my #1 followed closely by blue back, then probably a craw colored followed by host of others.

I agree with this^^^. I loved the Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth line of rods. I had multiple spinning rods and 1 casting. I believe the casting was a 6'9" MH-MF if I remember correctly. Loved the rod until I had the same issue WW2 mentioned and the reel seat fell apart putting a reel on. I am down to one 6'9" ML Fast and a 6'3" M-F in spinning reels. Definitely worth trying to see how you like it!

I have a 6spd lefty. It's very smooth and I like it. Don't know that I would pay full price over some other options, but if you get the JDM at low to mid $200s... Hard deal to beat!!! My only reel complaint is I palm my reels while casting and the brake dial moves so easy I bump it up with my index finger and accidently increase the brake setting while casting. My Alphas doesn't do it, so my Zillion must just be loose. Great reels though!

Nobody can tell better than you,... Having the advantage of having them there in your hands. Let suggest this,.... Choose the one that lines up better to the weights you are planning to use. Lighter TR would probably be better on the MH and heavier rigs on the Heavy.

Maybe they figure it is already covered by the Tranx series of reels?

I think it will come down to Daiwa's marketing team assessing if the sales would exceed the investment and be profitable. It honestly wouldn't take much research for them to see all the forum talk about "I bought one and it was cool at first, but wouldn't buy another one" to make a decision. Unless it is cheap and easy to copy that is!! Personally, I bought a couple when the Curado and SLX DCs came out. Kind of cool at first, but didn't take too long to get tired of that noise, and honestly didn't see what all the hype was about. Originally bought the SLX version for my wife as she was less experienced with baitcasting reels, thinking it may help. She tried it for a bit then found she liked my Alphas, and then the Daiwa SV 70 when it came out saying she liked them better for size, fit and function. I'm more interested in what happens when Daiwa's brake system patents expire. In my opinion, that will be more of a shakeup than the whole DC thing.

I do this too. Backup packages are kept in bulk boxes by type ( Tubes, 4" Sticks, 5" Sticks, Craws, Flukes, etc etc). While fishing, I break down my common colors in various Plano boxes by type so I can fit things nearly in my front center compartment and I refill as necessary when I get home. On trips I bring whatever bulk boxes I may need for daily restocking.

I've got various size Vanfords and Stradics. It might just be me, but I honestly don't see a WHOLE lot of difference in performance between the Stradics and Vanfords, other than the Vanfords are lighter. Both are smooth, awesome reels. From my perspective, the new Vanfords aren't enough of a change to warrant "Upgrading" from the previous Vanfords,... or a good Stradic. Not saying I wouldn't buy one if I needed another reel,... but not just to upgrade!

Wow,... I've got so many different brands and types of reels that I'm not going to try and break them down to a "favorite". But,.... I like a centrifugal brake system like Shimano offers as a rule for long open casting. If making shorter pitches and casts, a magnetic brake seems to work better because spool RPMs aren't really high enough for centrifugal brakes to do a lot. I think Daiwa does a nice job since their brakes are kind of a hybrid system that is magnetic, but their moving inductor system can also account for high spool speeds. Dual braking systems ( centrifugal AND magnetic) like on Abu Garcia, Lews, BPS and others offer the ability to adjust for different casting motions as well. Bottom line.... I can use any of them. Which works best is opinion, and typically depends on how you want to use the reel.

I think they do that so the same spool can be used on RH and LH reels