FrnkNsteen

Both Goo Gone and WD40 work well for removing adhesive from stickers or tape and do not typically hurt the surface underneath. Either will work fine, then just clean with dish soap or Simple Green after you are done. I use WD40 for removing remaining adhesive when updating registratuon stickers on the boat.

It looks like that is part of the flange on part 27 that keeps the inductor and ramps seated in the spool, under spring pressure from part 28. Looks like part of the flange is broken off. Don't know how that would even happen. I wouldn't think there would be much chance the rest would break off, but if it did, it doesn't look like there is anything else to stop the whole assembly moving towards the brake magnets. If that were to happen, I don't know if there would be anything keeping your spool controlled and you may get a bad backlash as mentioned above. The bigger issue might be the inductor spinning into the magnet at high rpms and possibly causing damage, but can't say for sure.

No problem! Remembered I had taken a couple pictures for someone else. Here are some side by side images of the two. Here's a side view

I have both and can say if they aren't the same exact frame, they are very close. I will say the Alphas has a free floating spool and the Tatula SV70 has a shaft on the spool. The Alphas is smoother, but the difference isnt huge.

My hand stays in the palming position while casting. I don't move it,.. I just roll it slightly to drop my thumb to the clutch bar. I know,... Not the normal way, but it work well for me. To this....

Maybe if you fish with only 1 or 2 fingers in front of the trigger, but I palm mine with 3 fingers in front of the trigger and only my pinky behind. Even on a hard cast, I'm usually only grabbing the butt of the rod with my other hand. I just need to check them out and see how they feel in person. I appreciate them thinking outside the box though!!

I need to see one of these in a store so I can hold one in-hand. Just seeing pictures, it just seems a little wierd that they market the "Trigon" triangular cork grips, yet they set them in a manner that the majority of your hand isn't even on them (See pics above). I get the concept of the triangular grip fitting the hand contour, but it seems every pic I see, it isn't even really in your hand... Only the black injection molded plastic is... I need to find them in stock somewhere and check them out. In the pics shown above it seems like the way I palm my casting reels and hold my spinning reels, my hands would barely touch the cork on either type.

I'm a dangler while fishing down a bank. I usually have 3 - 4 rods on the right side of the deck leaning on my TM cable ready to throw. If I'm working down a shoreline, I may have a jig, a square bill, some sort of texas rig and likely a senko all at the ready depending on the various types of cover I come up on. Then, as Tom suggested,... If I decide to move, I tie them all down to their hook keepers and strap them to the deck before firing up the motor to move. 40 years of fishing and it has worked just fine with nobody losing an eye. In fact, the one time either my wife or I got hooked (other than a fish throwing a bait and getting hooked in the hand or arm) was when she got out of the boat to make a shoreline bio break at a remote lake and when getting back in,...sat on a jerkbait hooked to the hook keeper of a rod strapped to the deck. If it had been "Dangling" that bay wouldn't now be lovingly known as Butt-Hurt Bay!!

Terminator used to make some. I think they called them "Snapback" or something like that, but I haven't seen them around for ages. I think Rapala owns Terminator now, so maybe they will offer them as part of the new Crush City line of plastics mentioned above.

Ummm,.. Not into conspiracy theories,... But what do you expect someone from the auto industry to say while they are pushing EVs? I agree with Tom in that you need better connections to your battery. Get some female spade connectors and connect them to the wires of your device so you can make a good solid connection.

I've never had good luck with flouro on a spinning reel and always pull it back off. The only flouro on my spinning rods is a few as leader material at the endbof braid. The rest are mono.

I use that quite a bit. The price is nice too! I look at it as the Sufix version of Big Game. In my opinion, it is stiffer than Trilene XL and doesn't stretch as much as Big Game. I mostly use it in 12lb and 17lb for reaction baits like shallow cranks or poppers (12lb) or spinnerbaits and poppers (17lb to help keep it up shallower) when I don't need as much flexibility. I use Big Game for spooks and walking baits, and Trilene XL on the spinning reels. As for color,... I don't honestly think it makes as much difference in most cases as people think. I use braid when I want no stretch and want good hook sets. I use flouro for sinking baits or crankbaits if I want more depth and mono for shallow baits or topwater. I have some hi-vis braid, some green. Flouro is obviously clear and all my mono is green so I can easily see if a reel has mono or flouro. If it's clear,... It's flouro. Simple as !that

I think I used 320 grit but either would work. 180 is probably too coarse, but Ive used 220 as well. Just can't get as aggressive with more coarse sandpaper.

I have done some older rods and they came out really well. Clean it with a magic eraser until the cork looks clean, then fill voids with Elmers wood filler (I used Golden Oak color) Let it dry completely and sand it down even to the surrounding cork. I wipe it down with a damp cloth to get ALL the dust off, let it dry completely, then seal with the U40. Here's a pic of an old Fenwick I did that was REALLY in rough shape with lots of voids.

I've tied Maribou, Squirrel, and Bucktail,..... What is the difference with Bear hair that makes you like it so much? Curious....

Yep,... You did. I really like InvizX too,... I just don't use it much for spinnerbaits. I typically run my spinnerbaits pretty shallow in fairly dingy water, either slow rolling them around stumps & laydowns or cranking them just under the surface. In either case the larger mono (i.e. larger than the 10-12lb I would use for other things) seems to work well and is MUCH cheaper to replace when needed.

Not really,... If I were getting really picky, the Alphas seems a bit smoother overall and comparable to my Zillion SVTW G. Maybe it's because of the floating spool over the shafted spool of the Tatula SV70?? I couldn't say for sure. To be honest though, I haven't had the SV70 long enough to use it a lot while I have used the Alphas much more. I currently have the Alphas on a St Croix Legend X, loaded with flouro, and pitching and skipping a Fat Ika around cover.

Good video with good information. The only area I tend to differ is the line. I don't care for braid with spinnerbaits either, but I typically go heavier mono over flouro. 15 - 17lb mono is my typical choice.

^^Good advice There are some that think that putting one brake on can throw your spool out of balance on the cast and suggest you only turn on brakes that are opposite of each other for balance. I dont happen to buy into that and think you can turn on just 1 with no issues. I mean if that were true, on a 4 brake reel, you would only have three settings.... None on, 2 opposed shoes on, or all 4 on. Do what works for you.... I don't think you will hurt a thing, but keeping the brakes and ring clean as Phish suggested is good advice to follow.

Ability to cut through the weeds. We don't have heavy vegetarion around here in Indiana, so I have 30lb on most things, but I do have a few setups with 50+ on them... mainly my from rods. We used to fish smallies on big sandy flats full of cabbage. If you didn't have heavy braid on, the big smallies would make a run through the cabbage and tie you up. With heavy braid it just cuts right through it. Most of my braid rigs have 30lb that is,.... Rest are straight mono or flouro

Looks like it has some interesting features,... I like the idea of the line clip on the front. I just have a hard time getting excited about a graphite framed reel with magnetic brakes, especially one that costs more than established reels like the SLX, Fuego, and LFS Speed Spool. Does anyone else think it's strange that all three of their spinning reels cost more than the baitcaster??

What about the new OG Rocco? Isn't it a balsa with a square bill?

I don't use a lot of extra fast rods to be honest. I use some for jigs and worms as you mentioned, but not a lot else. I will expand the worms to include all texas rigged setups, such as tubes, senkos, flukes. Etc. I definitely don't like them for anything with trebles. I dont really like them reaction baits like paddletail swimmers spinnerbaits or swim jigs either. I like a slower "Fast" or maybe even a moderate fast for those. For creek fishing. I think I would use that XF for texas rigged tubes or maybe floating a weightless worm down the current or pitching it into current eddies

My experince with glass has been mainly on the Dobyns 735cb glass and 736cb glass. I like Dobyns CB Glass models because as Columbia Craw said, they are hybrid graphite and glass. As such, they are much thinner than other company's glass rods and I feel they are actually lighter and better balanced. I use my 735cb glass for deeper cranks (5XD and 6XD) while I use my 2 736cb glass for bladed jigs on braid. My only other experuence with a glass rod is a St Croix Legend Glass 6'10" MM I just picked. I put my 2021 Zillion SV TW G reel on it, and like it so far, but havent had much time on it yet. Just throwing it around a bit in the yard and atva friend's farm pond. It is thicker and a little more tip heavy than a similar sized Dobyns, but so far, I kind of like it.

I'm just curious what you meant that you "accidentally put the spool on free spin". Does that mean you loosened the control knob on the spool tension so it is super free, or did you turn the brakes way low or off?