Skippy

Actually the Expride I have does not show the action on the rod. It is the only rod that I own that does show the action directly on the rod. I have the A 7’2” MHG mainly for chatterbaits and love it.

I will fall under the 1 star rating camp. I had two HMX spinning rods. Both broke in a few months under normal usage (I’m lucky if I can get out once a week). I now avoid all Fenwick rods. To clarify - I only purchased one of the rods. The second was a warranty replacement, but was a different rod not a repair of the same rod.

I have the 7'ML avid x and use it almost exclusively for throwing the 1/8 screw head with a 3” Spark Shad most of last season from my kayak. I absolutely love this set up and it resulted in some of my biggest smallies last year. It is my preferred finesse set up. I keep meaning to try fishing a Ned rig on it, but I had far too much fun and success to make a change. Clearly need to buy another combo (stop it bait monkey). I have held the Expride 7’ light plus in stores and it feels great, but haven’t fished it myself.

Hi all, I went to a retailer to look at a couple of Shimano Expride rods and feel them in my hands. Very impressed. Unfortunately, they didn't have the exact model that I was looking for (EX172MHGA), but did have enough other models for me to get a feel for some rods that would be very close. A few things that I found that were odd. The model numbers were not exactly as listed on Shimano's website. For example, I found a 7'6 MH rod and on the rod it was shown as: 176MH rather than what Shimano's website and other tackle websites show as EX176MHA. The other specifications appeared to line up: 3/8-1oz line 10-20lb CODE No. 38106 (if that matters) I found a video online where someone compared the previous JDM and new Expride A's and two obvious differences that were noted were: shiny vs. matte finish on the reel seat larger vs. smaller cork just above the reel seat Additionally, I found a website listing all of the Expride models and the previous JDM 176MH was noted as 2 pieces (I believe this was just the handle) and for 3/8 to 1 1/16oz baits... Based on that I believe I was holding an Expride A, but why would Shimano not use at least the 176MHA to identify the Expride A? Another thing that I found slightly unusual - none of these rods listed the actions on the actual rod. Not a big issue, but not something that I am used to. Thanks.

Thanks very much for the input

So for those that have used the Dobyns glass rods - I am looking into either a 735 or 736 CB glass rod for my chatterbait fishing. Unfortunately there are no dealers anywhere near me (East of Toronto) - so I can’t feel them before purchasing... I fish from a kayak and my chatterbaits are almost exclusively the 3/8 oz jackhammer. While I do fish in and around grass I wouldn’t call it heavy cover or really thick for the most part. Based on that curious to get others opinions on whether the 735 (MH -1/4 to 1 oz) or 736 (H - 3/8 to 1&1/2 oz). I may also use the rod for other things (lipless and/or spinnerbaits) but not more than 3/4 oz baits. Thanks Scott

Thanks DanielG, Based on some additional research last night I believe that I have answered my questions and have a plan going forward. 1. I have seen several examples where the trolling motor control unit was completely removed and everything was controlled directly by the PWM. 2. The “extra” two wires controlling speed were not used in those other installations - speed and direction (forward or reverse) was controlled directly by the PWM. 3. I will try to extend the wires from the trolling motor with 10 AWG. A potential issue - the most likely point of failure going forward will be the PWM. Some builds notes that they fried the PWM - if this were to happen on the water and the trolling motor head has been removed, you are effectively left without a trolling motor. It was noted the key was to ensure the WPM selected can handle the appropriate amps and the trolling motor is smaller thrust as larger thrust motors draw much more amps from the battery. 30 to 40 lbs were recommended and the 100A (max) with 60A continuous PWM was strongly suggested. I will look into the PVC elbow to cap the trolling motor - thank you for the suggestion. I will be ordering a couple of PWM soon and everything will be on hold until they arrive. Thanks Scott

Hi All, Looking into modifying a trolling motor to install at the stern of my Wilderness Systems Ride 135 over the winter. I have realized that it will require some MacGyvering to make everything work the way that I want it to, but for now wanted to focus on modifying the actual trolling motor. Last winter I put together something that allowed me to add a trolling motor to the side of my kayak (just behind and too my left). It worked well getting between locations, but having it at the side required manual adjustments from one hand on a fairly regular basis and turning or even going dead straight against wind, waves, current required oversteering in many cases – I think based on it being at the side vs. rear. I would really like to have it at the rear of my kayak and use the foot pedals to steer – more hands free to continue fishing… I have been doing a lot of research on this, but unfortunately am not particularly handy or mechanically inclined (accountant) – feel free to let me know if I am way off track or need to rethink everything… I have a Minn Kota Endura C2 38 lbs thrust that I plan to use for this purpose. I am planning to add a Pulse Width Modutor (PWM) – some additional reading = here: Unfortunately, I need something that can be shipped to Canada – so currently looking into: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-10-55V-100A-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Reversible-Control-Forward-Reverse/264569858292?hash=item3d9997a8f4:g:1x0AAOSwiX1d-MGd From my understanding – with a standard trolling motor – this would be installed between the battery and the trolling motor, leave the trolling motor control to 5 and then the PWM dial would then control the actual speed (100% variable) using the dial. If reverse is required, the above noted PWM has a switch that would need to be used… What I know so far: · I was planning to remove the Minn Kota head, shorten the shaft and extend the wires from the motor to my seat (approx. 5 feet). · Minn Kota’s instruction manuals provide a conductor gauge and circuit breaker sizing table. For 5 feet recommends 10 AWG. For most installations this would be extending just the positive and negative cables running between the battery and trolling motor. · The Endura has 4 wires running down to the motor – these are significantly smaller gauge than the battery wires that run external to the trolling motor itself. · Two of the cables are the +ve and -ve for power, while the extra 2, to my knowledge are designed to regulate the speed and convert power into heat as opposed to propulsion – which makes the trolling motor extremely inefficient – hence the use of a maximizer or PWM to improve the power consumption. What I am currently wrestling with: 1. Will I need 2 control units going forward? The PWM to allow for 100% variable speed control as well as the Minn Kota head set to setting 5? Or can I remove the Minn Kota head from the equation, tying the wires from the trolling motor directly into the PWM and use the PWM to control everything? 2. If the trolling motor head is no longer required and the PWM controls the power flowing from the battery to the motor, can the 2 “extra” wires that regulated speed previously be ignored? 3. I want to extend the wires from the trolling motor forward so that the PWM would sit either directly in front of me or to my left (position TBD but again ~ 5 feet should work). Effectively, my thoughts were battery connected to PWM using the existing battery cables that would normally run from the trolling motor to the battery. Then 5 fees of 10 AWG connecting the PWM directly to the shortened trolling motor via the existing smaller gauge wires. I think that is a good staring point for now. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Scott

Well depending on how patient they are with the drop shot this could actually be true. Just let it soak for a couple of hours - eventually something will eat it.

Ok so what brand and size of straight shank do you prefer. I bought some mustads that were listed as 3/0 but the gap seemed quite slim compared to others that I have seen.

Unfortunately the flashy swimmer actually only comes in 1/0, 3/0, and 5/0 (I believe there are also some bigger hooks, but I haven’t even considered them). I tend to use the 3/0 for 3.8 fats and the 5/0 for the 4.8 fats. These both have worked very well for me in the past. If I am fishing smaller sizes I tend to use other hooks.

Thanks A-Jay - I seem to have this d**n monkey hanging around my house now. I have been looking at the 6th Sense baits for a while. Some of the reviews on TW and other sites have noted issues with the bills breaking. What have your experiences been. Have you you tried the movement 80x? The underwater videos on these show a very unique action - any thought on these?

The bait monkey says “yellow. It looks way more yellow”.

So last year, I had a lot of success with the Ned Rig. I exclusively used Z-Man baits and the finesse Shroomz jig head - 90% of the time the 1/15th weight. I did occasionally have some issues with bending/breaking hooks and with the keepers coming off, but overall found that my hookups and getting fish into my kayak were good. Seeing as it is stupid cold out and I don't ice fish, I was doing some research for the upcoming season and came across Berkley Half Head Jigs - which come in a variety of colors and the 1/16th have a size 1 hook. Anyone have any experience with these vs. the Z-man jig heads? One of the main reasons I am considering these are that a pack of 8 are generally a lower price than a pack of 5 of the finesse Shroomz... Obviously I'd love to buy some and take them out for a test run, but it doesn't seem like that's going to happen for 3 months or so! Last thing - I am located near Toronto, Ontario so ordering something specific online generally becomes too costly once factoring in shipping and I do not have any experience in making my own jig heads, nor am I looking to get into that at this time...

OK - kind of going the opposite way of other posts I see about avoiding the bait monkey - I'm holding a banana for him - "here monkey, monkey, monkey"... Planning on placing an online order in the near future and was looking for some suggestions for items I should be adding (a few new lures to try this year). I feel that I am pretty well set for rods and reels - so no suggestions there please. A bit about myself. I fish mainly from a kayak and occasionally from shore - mainly in lakes/ponds/very slow rivers in the Kawartha Lakes area of Ontario. I generally fish shallow - 10 feet and under and prefer to be firing baits around and under docks. My standard set up is to take three rods with me - to keep everything manageable. In most cases, I will have the following tied on: a search bait (chatterbait most often, but possibly a spinnerbait or crankbait/squarebill) something finesse - normally an unweighted senko or drop shot something for bottom contact - jig, texas rig or shaky head I will be trying the Ned rig for the first time this year. I have a few spots locally where I can get tackle, but unfortunately (maybe fortunately) they do not seem to have many of the items I see people recommending in various posts. The nearest big fish store is more than an hour away and being in Canada tends to have much less selection than those in the US... Anyways - some items that I am considering: *** *** Elites - 3/8oz - really want to try to compare with others that I use (SK Hack Attack mainly) Z Man Finess Schroomz heads - light sizes - the stores near me only seem to have 1/5oz LC Rattle In 1.5 RT Crankbait - TO Gill Xcite XB-1 Squarebill - Copper Green Shad and/or Sexy Shad Little John 50 Crankbait - Chartreuse Black Back and/or Rootbeer Chartreuse and/or Spooky Nasty Luck-E-Strike Rattler Crankbait - Sunfish or Sunfish 2 6th Sense Crush 50X - Baby Bluegill and/or Ghost Threadfin Shad I would love to get others thoughts on the above or other items that I should be considering in general. Thanks in advance, Skippy