Bolar

It depends on where I'm docking. If it's a nice wooden dock, then probably no fenders. If it has some nasty bolts sticking out, then I use fenders. Aluminum docks I'll use fenders. The Taylor Low Freeboard work well for my set-up. After my first season I found some sharp gouges along my gunnel. The fenders also help protect my bimini when docked, so I use them quite a bit.

Yep, water gets in everywhere when it rains. You would think with that groove around the top of the box, it would help keep water out . If you keep the boat out with no cover, you will always have wet compartments (mold ). On the water you will also need to wire an auto-bilge switch.

Weedless Wedge installed. It is quite a bit bigger than the stock prop.

The only existing holes in the boat are two through the transom and the one just above the water line where the live well comes out (also the bilge, but it's high). If I remember correctly your deck should be a little wet under the drivers console if it's a hose on the live well. I would definitely check the plug hole and hose connection coming in for the live well. Check both from the outside, wiggle or spin, also to make sure they are properly attached "welded?" to the transom. Other than an actual hole in the boat, I'm not sure what else to check for. Let us know how it goes.

I want to have the option to take the post out, for whatever reason. I'm not sure if locktight would make that too difficult.

I really hate the seat posts in this boat. I can never get them tight, and when lose they make a terrible noise (LOUD) as I shift in the chair. I've tried to muscle the posts in, of course they always come lose. I got a strap wrench, but even then they still come lose . So what I have done is drill a 1/4" hole at the bottom of the pole and insert a screw driver to twist the post down tight. Avoid the set pin that's close by. It's tight now, but I think over time it will still come lose. As you can see below only about 1/3 of the thread is used when the pole is all the way in. I only did the front as an experiment. I'll do the back if it works better this way.

I measured the pieces I had. The pin is 1/8" in diameter. You think they would be metric. Anyhow, I'm looking to get some 1/8 stainless and cut my own. I ordered the weedless prop while I was ordering things. The original prop chops weeds pretty well, but if figured what the heck, I'll get that and see how it does. Prop nut kit A (MKP-9)

Went out this morning got to my spot and dropped the trolling motor and immediately heard a terrible grinding noise. I took the prop off and I had a broken shear pin. It actually broke in three pieces. With no spare, I took out the center section that was in the motor shaft. I used the outer sections slid them in half way and made it work for the remainder of the day. I was careful to keep the prop off the bottom and out of the weeds. New parts on order as soon as I got home. Always an adventure .

USCG has an app for that. You can make a plan for each body of water you float on, and save the information. Pick your plan, send it to anyone you want.

I've been on Lake Michigan which is kind of big. Watch the weather and your OK. ? I've seen smaller boats out there.

So I did a quick search about this. I found prices from $150-300 for the repair. If you take the lower unit off yourself it can be towards the lower price range at a local weld shop. If you take the engine to someplace like Bass Pro, you can be out of the water for up to 3 weeks (they send it out) and of course the upper price range. My skeg is good (knock on wood). I was just curious about this. Anyone have any experience with repairing a skeg?

I'm not sure how the older manuals were put together, but the newer ones are very generic and are meant for all of the Tracker models. There is almost no specific information in it that pertains to my boat. Granted the wiring of these boats is pretty basic, I'm sure they are almost all wired the same. Your not going to find specifics, like part numbers. Call Tracker and see what they say. Your best bet is to Google what pictures and info you can get on-line. Maybe try to find a Bass Pro catalog from '86. It might have some good console pictures. There are also a number of forums that guys have restored older Trackers. You can get a lot of info from them.

I had to search that. I've been using a 12 lb river anchor. Were you considering the bracket or just the stick with a rope?

So I don't know if it's me or what, but I've noticed some people tend to get a little close to my rear when I have to stop. I ran across this prop cover a few weeks back from Prop Alert. The small fits our props pretty well.

Which 5 did you use? No sense suggesting them again.

Nice. The left one sure puts out some light for the license plate .

For the span I placed mine to center the lower deck. That way the front and rear decks have the least interference with the bimini unfurled. I have the 46" and it is still pretty tall. The sun is never directly overhead, and it seems like the shade is not going to be where I want it. I'm going to have to maneuver the boat for shade when needed, and/or angle the bimini front or back for shade. Of course that will cut off access to the front or rear deck . It's going to be a big experiment. Another consideration for placement is the rear seat and hatches. I wanted make sure the seat was still usable and did not want any interference with the stern hatch when the frame is down.

I finally got to go out yesterday for the first time this year. Fishing was terrible, the lake level was up and muddy from the recent rains. Anyhow, for anyone on the fence about a bimini here are a few things I encountered. They sell two types of bimini's...a rear pole, and a all strap support. Strangely enough the rear poles are less expensive, so that's what I went with. I had the frame up for my drive to the lake, which is just a couple of miles away. It held up well, the storage bag that holds the canvas didn't try to come off. I did notice that sometimes there was some side to side shimmy on the bimini frame that could be concerning. If I were to drive long distances I would put the frame down, less stress on the mounts at the gunnel. When installing the bimini you have to be aware of which direction the mounts go on the gunnel. Do you want the tightening knob on the outside or the inside of the boat? There is a nut that the knob tightens into so I figured I would rather have the nut fall into the boat when I take it apart, as opposed to having it fall to the outside. The problem with that set-up is the knobs stick a little outside the gunnel, so when I tie-up they are hitting the side of the dock. To get around this new problem I am using boat fenders. I've been wanting to get into the habit of using fenders more. Even at this dock that is wood, there are some bolts that stick out a little and can scratch or gouge the aluminum. I have a couple of 90° Taylor Made that work well for our set-up. The next thing, even with the cover put away it is a big sail with the frame up. It got windy in the afternoon and I was on the trolling motor the whole time. In the future I think I might keep it folded down on the deck until I need it. Wow, that's a lot of words for a simple set-up. Hope it helps someone.

So I took off my hubcaps to lube the hubs and noticed a little more rust on the inside than was there before. I have one that was made in Taiwan the other labeled China . Anyhow to hopefully hold back on the rust a little longer, I spray painted the insides. I taped the outside chrome, and used black gas grill paint on the inside. It drys super quick. Sorry no pictures, it went fast.

Thanks. I wish I could help, original Hook, factory location. I don't get to go fast very often. 10Mph I can read depth.

Bimini on! I had some issues last fall and didn't get to clean and put it up like I wanted to. After a good scrub down, it will be ready to get messed up again for this summer.

Boating safety course. https://www.boatus.org/free/

For a boat you might look at this. Its a good first boat and you can't beat the price. If you really are interested, I would suggest you go and look at one as soon as possible. They stopped taking orders last year towards the end of March.

I got my bimini today ! I was a little worried at first, there were shoe prints on the top of the box . Luckily nothing was bent inside. The canvas is heaver than I thought it would be. Overall I'm happy with it and it looks pretty well make for the price. We might finally have a break in the weather here. I'm hoping to get it installed the first decent day that comes along

I've bought the 5 for $15 a couple times. New they can be a little tight, wear and wash a few times and they loosen up. I'm not into the faces so I order the solids. My local lake is mostly has back yards all around, and I have wondered about wearing one of the creepy faces and how that would go over . If your still on the fence about ordering, you do get a free sticker .