The Threadfin Shad fry are plentiful and small so you need to stand apart. I like to match the hatch, but focus on various ways to isolate a feeding bass’ attention. The key word too is ‘feeding’. At night, when the Shad are close to shore and prolific; I ignore all of the visible signs of baitfish until I see the surface commotion from predatory fish. This will make for the most efficient use of your time. These listed techniques have been killer for years now and I hope they work for others
1) 3” white or smoke grub on a 1/4 oz chartreuse roadrunner or a 1/15 oz ned rig TRD, The Deal specifically. I’ll locate the school and lob casts around the area I mentally mapped out, just passing the edges of the school, a foot or two subsurface, waking it even sometimes, while lightly bouncing the tip of my rod on the retrieve.
2) drop shot right in the middle of the school with a long leader (“18). Rebarb Roboworm light wire hook with either: SXE Shad 4.5” Roboworm ST, 2.5” Gulp!Alive Black Shad, or Zoom Tiny Fluke in Smokey Shad. I let the bait fall on semislack line then twitch up to only repeat. If no action after a 2-3 rounds, I’ll reel in some feet and try the dance again. I get more fish fishing the drop shot more aggressively than other times of the year.
3) exception to the baitfish imitation rule, but has caught me bigger fish, is to throw a weightless Trick Worm in a bright color that stands out like a sore thumb. In my case, the Candy Bug with the tip dipped in Spike It Dip-n-Glow gets destroyed from the the start of the shad spawn thru early fall.
Sidenote: can’t speak on personal experience, yet, but I have a buddy who swears by using a finesse mojo rig with a GYCB 3” Senko. He’ll incorporate a twitch, twitch, pause retrieval almost like working a weightless soft jerkbait
At least the bass are easier to catch during the shad spawn than walleye. That’s a puzzle I’ll never figure out.