fish'n Jim

Sorry late getting back. Since I "tuned" up the "Charge" (onboard battery control) system and put the LVS on a switch, the voltage is quite stable around 12 VDC through out the day, measured on the bow unit. Charge's making corrections based on system voltages /amp draws since it monitors all 4 (31 AGM) batteries and transfers energy where needed when big motors running and not. I might still change out the starting battery since it spent the last 2 years not getting full charge. I'm waiting on an estimate to run 6GA up to front before I decide further action. Technically, I don't see new wire being necessary, only a warranty issue, not performance, as I ran nearly the same setup on my Z20 w/ no issues. Ranger didn't say much and recommended 10 ga. if two front units, but I'm only running one. But their new boats advertise 6 ga for those boats that look like a control room, not a fishing platform??? Who has time for that? I don't advertise. I think that bow circuit is branched off the console power anyway. To know the exact length of each wire/ ga to make calculations would take some uneasy exploration. The starboard conduits aren't easy to access. If one runs another set of power wires up with the TM conduit on the port, asking for interference. If you're familiar with a 520C, the TM runs off 6 ga on a separate 3 battery 36VDC circuit. 112 TM's capable of >50A draw. Only the battery system controller is connected and would know when drawing. All electronics on the NMEA network are powered off the 12 VDC starting batt. Plus there's wireless comm between the bow & console units, charge, and iphone. ps: I see some tournaments are requiring use restrictions on forward facing sonar(FFS). They require the transducer to be disconnected and a red cable cap applied. If your FFS unit is not switchable, it runs but no sonar. May causes heat issues. I'm no longer competing, just raising the issue. Eventually, the manufacturers will sort this out, but we're dealing with it in real time like most beta tests too soon to market. One reason I tried to prolong changing out as long as I could. But the tech is pretty slick. Last week, I was watching a "big bass" roaming under my boat. I could see all it's movement, dorsal and tail fins. My boat is down this week. During annual, I noticed timing belt was worn. I'd bought the belt but procrastinated on repairs. Trailering last Tues, I heard a slapping noise. When I went to replace belt, it was slack, and the tensioner wouldn't move. Waiting on new tensioner.

Technique dependent. I use console for running and bow for boat control. I use it 100% when drop shotting. Part of the technique - target specific fish. I only forward scan when I'm looking at structure/cover or searching for bait balls. They're on 100%, pre-launch except the forward scan I shut off to conserve power. Also listen to the stereo all day.

I've posted that I've changed out all the electronics on my 520C and thought I had the gremlims tamed. In recent close out conversations w/ Garmin tech, about other issues, when we were 'talking'(vis email) power, he handily pointed out they REQUIRE higher gauge wiring to satisfy the warranty. (I think it's just an out and they're protecting themselves, because if you look at the specs there's no way you need to run 6 Ga for ~4 amps 12 VDC! The TM max pulls >50amps and it's 6 ga? So I'm stuck in a quandary - to wire to spec or not. Personally I don't see any way except the port side TM cableway and that causes interference. I don't think I can snake 2 6 ga up the starboard conduit with all the other wire in there already. These boats are foam filled. I'm getting a quote from a marine electrician and his opinion this coming week. More later. The neck down to 20-22 ga at the connector also? I just noticed the new Ranger ad, stating "they now use 6 ga for electronics". Whoopee! Selling point, but is it necessary? The typical way is to grandfather. I ran the same set-up on my earlier Z-20 and it worked flawless. Maybe the new gen is more iffy with all the wireless comm.? Do I really need a message on my graph that I got a phone call or text when the phone is in the glove box on low power? Or are they spying on me? Anyone fighting upgrades, let me know what you're doing, going to do, or been told. As fast as I change electronics, I don't see adding a few months of life for a measly warranty on one unit. If they're as good as I think won't become an issue. They would not give me, how long the life the extra Ga wiring adds, their power spec, so I could not calculate the options. Typical control of voltage is by a capacitance bank, but I understand they have one internally. (redundant design?) The Charge is doing a good job now of holding at 12 VDC up front but the control is a bit slow when you step on the TM, dips a tenth or two momentarily..

It's a matter of what U need vs want and can afford. I've been running TMs since the early '80s. I almost lost one in '90s on Lake Erie when a wave crashed the boat and the previous pounding loosened the bolts. I had to harbor and lash it down to get to weigh in. They've come a long way in reliability. The old cable drives used to fail often but the combo w/ electronic now takes the strain off. I used to prefer the Motorguides with the one push/pull cable. They did not fail. But as the power increased, they changed back to cables. I switched to MK. I'm running MK Ultrex 112. The one that was on it when bought, died and wasn't repairable. I lost a day fishing - I was 2 hours from home had just got on the lake was fishn some docks and lost steering. I always carried a spare when I tournament fished but they were only $1K back then. I bought two new ones @ $3K a piece - OUCH! (but + one brushless) The new gen is much better in spot lock, etc. I like that feature. If you break off and have to retie and it's windy, you don't crash into the dock/shore/etc. I do not use the other, constant on, north. I do not interface with my electronics nor use the built in XDCRs. I can see that if you fish walleye and troll a predetermined route, but not needed for bass. I'm old fashion when I see the young guys launch their boats, then remotely steer it to the dock and take off, I shudder. I've lost or almost lost my boat a few times after launch and had to retrieve. It would've been nice to have those features, but I wouldn't rely on it - personally. The wireless steer were crapolla. I just saw the newest gen MK advertised are now brushless and more powerful so that's the future. I went to buy a new boat during unobtanium period COVID, and I was looking seriously at the brushless motors, but $5K a crack. So even though they're robust, quieter, add a spare and you can almost buy another small boat or used car!

Late to the party as usual, a few words of whizdumb. Finding them takes being on the water and keeping your eyes open and more likely around the pre-spawn and spawn periods. Those old gals will show themselves and you have to be there to observe where/when. I've had many jump/pass next/near to the boat, expose themselves, and then spent time chasing them down. Some I got, most not. ie; fish often at high percentage times/areas. Equipment management; how many times did I miss one after respooling and not know it by forgetting to tighten the spool tension on hook set? Yesterday, one ate the front half of the crawbait off, <1/2" short of the hook, no telling if big or small in 12'. #'s game. You catch them sitting on the couch. I shook one off a jerk bait in a tournament because I thought it was a striper in early light, until it jumped. That's what memory is for - beat you up not to do it again. Long list of other misses, so keep a razor sharp "saw". A home owner on Murray told me he missed a 9, and I told him, we all have those stories. Accidents will still happen. I lost one when the line wrapped around the hook shank and squeezed through the small space between the eye and shank. Left with a perfect knot on end of my line. ODDS? Those things will happen, don't get excited or tore up. Cool under fire is necessary in life. Keep your bait in the water. It could come back to eat again. I think of this as what's big for the area, not in absolute PB numbers terms. Not going to catch a natural 12+ in the north, but a 7, either mouth, is a genuine trophy there. Caught my first 7 at age 13 in northern OH. Keep fishing the area where you observed a "giant" and that increases your odds of a hook up. Add it to your milk run. The big fish baits catch big fish or they wouldn't call them that! Tackle up and hook size/strength up. You can jerk a 3 out of a log pile but a whale won't go through easy. I fished as a co-angler with a guy, he had an 8+ bite his jig, he slept on the set, fish ran out the tree and the 20# line was wrapped up and snapped like a tooth pick. He asked me if I had any place I wanted to fish, and I said across over by the other standing tree. I threw a jerkbait in there, past the tree, and pulled out a 5 in the last minutes, so it ain't over til it's over. Don't underestimate the buzz bait or frog for biggies. Crank it up sometimes. I used to like the ghost DB3 bagley's in Aug. You'll have those 1 or 3 magical days when you catch a whole sack of them too, 30-40#s so don't think small. The 100 lb club exists in the pro ranks. Some BB specialists claim hundreds over 10, that's often the same pool of fish over an over and FLA strain. After this long, I'm in it for the big bites or little ones the act big.

I put the new CHARGEr on when the old monster MK4 gave up one bank and new AGM batts in '22. I had someone else put it in and after one blue tooth connecting hiccup, it's been smooth sailing. The TM doesn't get the mid day "sag" like a regular no charge management system. I'm not a fan of all these e-gadgets, but once you get used to them... I changed all electronics in Dec and added live scope which I had on my last boat. I've been chasing gremlins. Voltage dropping, units shutting down, freeze ups, or not auto booting up. Internet is full of reports, people adding extra Li batteries, extra chargers, etc. I've been tracking these down one by one, investigating and solving them. After talking to the stereo tech support guy, today, he said it sounded like a voltage issue. The newer electronics are stricter on voltage requirements. Same maker, same type, newer model, different supplier as what was replaced. Whodathunkit? Technology mismatches happen when there's lead lag in developments. Been there done that. The CHARGE has a few features I didn't even know it had. Two things showed up today. Diagnostics were clean, no issue w/ CHARGE or batteries. I was expecting a report on the phone app, but it sends the data by email and they run those at power pole. Beats the DVM tests. I guess that's one for AI to take over. The charge priority balance between TM and starting was set 50:50 initially. I didn't even know what that did or you could change it because it was working for the previous set up. I double checked the battery type setup and the start was incorrectly entered as 50 AH, way low(1/2) of the 100 it is. CHARGE was being told it was much smaller wasn't giving it proper access to not over charge. Result the starting battery wasn't getting sufficient charging and was draining down too fast. I'll know for sure next week on the water but I think this is it. Everything works just fine when the voltage is up. Unlike the old prone to overcharge wet chargers, you leave this one plugged in all the time. [Probably saved me $250 for a new battery which I'd have changed first in my "old ways" - learned when batteries were not that expensive, failed often, and had pro rated warrantees. We all used to trade in our WM ones right before the 2 yr replacement period ran out, for new ones, until the policy drastically changed. Check your settings, folks, when you make changes. A little adjustment goes a long way.

Is the TM jerking or just the image? The image has to recompute every time it changes position, so you get those "fuzzy areas" until it stops moving. It's nto like a movey. The sonar signal has to go out and come back before an image and that's a slow speed compared to light. I've used 2nd gen(plus) on two different era Ultrexs and see no issues. I haven't tried it on my spare yet but had no issues before. I rotated TMs during the install. Same on the old boat that had the first gen. Takes a little getting used to. Price of TMs and selection today is suspect. I haven't seen it make any difference in the catch department, of course, I learned pre-electronics and "grew up" with them since the first gen flasher.

Going to trash today.

Thanks for all the comments. I was going to buy chains when I was at the store to get a new hitch. The store didn't have a matched set, I had the new cables so I went with them to get back on the water(crossed). I'm going to change, ASAP. I don't remember why they changed (-$?) as they used to use chains. The last two R's and one Lund had cables. The only issues with chains, if the hook comes off they grind on the pavement. The new ones have spring retainer clips. I'm going to tell the state about that spot on the highway too. I knew it was there but got lane trapped by a semi when I slowed for another bad spot. I don't think it would've come off it not for the rough road, even if it was not properly connected. I made it 20+ miles from home OK. Like all incidents, a compounding of errors. Maybe better it happened, I got concerned/alerted. A good tip for everyone. I also found out backing up to garage, that if I put it in reverse and get the license plate backup camera on - like I use to aligned/back to tongue, I can verify my new hitch connections. I can double check before I pull out. I'll put a note on the dash til it becomes habit. I have a second camera mounted in the outboard, so I have to toggle between cameras, that aids me backing up boat and for cars following too close or approaching from behind to pass. Big blind spot with cover on. I've done that the last two boats, after I quit buying 4x4s, the lower truck makes it harder to see behind. I went to same lake Wed. with no issues, avoided the "spot".

I've owned 9 bass boats and seen about everything towing, well over 1/2 million miles. Last week, going to lake, I hit a dip/low spot in the highway and the boat came unhitched. When I got it stopped, the cables were stretched quite a bit and the trailer was maybe 3' behind the truck and dragging on the ground. The e-brake cable had snapped it was so stretched. That's not supposed to happen! It's supposed to manually lock up the trailer brakes to facilitate a quicker stop. Chains usually support the tongue in that situation. These cables are coiled type and stretchy. Ranger only offers one length coiled cable set(54"), and I'm wondering if I need to make some sort of permanent adjustments here? I can go to chains or add a safety chain to limit fall back. I can install some sort of support under the tongue to support and guide the cables and help elevate it. I can crisscross the cables, like chains, but doesn't change the length much and likely to tangle. I've crisscross chains but never cables. There's no guidance in the manual. The brake book only calls for chains crossing, cables aren't even mentioned. I changed out the hitch, ball is probably worn after 10 years, put in a new different style closure brake actuator assy. rather than repair the e-brake cable. I changed actuator last summer, after it failed, and replaced with the same one that came with it. They only used that style a few years, and I don't like that type. I like the old A60, with the flip cap, the one I've used the most and that's what I put back in. I recall one year they changed to the stamped style, I had issues with it closing, and I put back an A60 and never had any more issues. I'm going to use a pin w/ lock, instead of the detent pin, and keep it in the truck when unlocked, so I'll know it's on there or not, if I see it in the truck or not. I've never had any problem with the A60s coming loose and they survived wrecks intact. Any comments, suggestions, or preferences chains v cables?

Before I throw out my two HDS 12 gen 3s and associated transducers, if anyone needs any of this for parts, just message me. All the xducrs were changed within the last <2 years and everything was working when I pulled it. Apparently, the epoxy never set on the thru hull when I changed it, I think they only shipped we one part, and it popped up and so I thought it had gone bad again, but is OK. There's the TM xducr for side scan, and the two for the other unit, the thru hull and big side scan. There's a fusion stereo unit that works. All this stuff is ten years old and long out of L service.

While I was installing the new units on my boat, I saw they now (since >'22) offer a NMEA connection for the "Charge" units to MFDs beyond just Lowrance. I contacted PP as the Garmin instructions weren't descriptive, but need to add a PP gateway port. Right now they're out of stock, but curious if anyone has connected their "Charge" to Garmin's and if it's worth the $120 and time to install or just tech "jewelry"? I really like the "Charge" but was pricey compared to options, but compared to the clunker MK 4 bank charger, it's a dream. [I'm not a app-aholic though. I lived a long time without, no sense changing now. The newbies can't fish without all this stuff. I see them sometimes on water for these HS and college events.] You get the voltage on the charts, etc. not sure I need to know all the batteries and if I have my iphone I can go to Cmonster app. [I want to fish not play with toys] I have more pressing issues to clear up, too. No longer competing either. I'm also worried about all this electronic "noise" may eventually affect the fish, but so far I don't see much evidence. I did see some issues with forward chasing fish out of docks, but can't be sure if boat or the sonar. I have for years turned off the electronics when the fish were incredibly wary. Those Xdrs click at times and cause sound. The newer ones are quiet, different freq.. ps: I have Talons, not PPs, also. I've been screwing around with this boat stuff since the first portable L fish finder(~'70s). This boat was rigged MK and Lowrance originally. I don't like these "package" boats, per se.. but that's how they worked it out. But today's $$ reality, custom is for pros only apparently. Things change, and then you're stuck. eg: One boat I had was Hbird which was contingent. Next year, tour changed to lowrance contingent, so I got lowrance thru Federation(back then) and the next year they went to Garmins? I didn't change until I got the '06 boat with garmins. I replaced all those units eventually twice. This boat is ten, and the L's were starting to fall apart and no forward, too old to support it.

I put the info in once already, so I don't know why it keeps asking? I'll wait for warmer weather and finish my annual maintenance before I screw with it again...

I dismiss them (OK) per the pop-up, but the reappear. How do you "permanently" delete them? Going to be weeks before I'm back on the water due to cold weather. Do I have to go into the Yamaha screen and look for/set something? It wants to "put full rpms" and I was reluctant when it was running, since I didn't know what that would do, but when off, I put in the rev limit. But keeps coming back. I was trying to avoid trying to call tech support from the water to get this clear up to see if anyone else had.

I converted all my electronics and just got off the phone w/ Garmin tech. They want me to call them from the boat. Motors on NMEA network and shows up on the graph OK. But on power up I get 5-6 engine alarms. Has anyone encountered alarms after you power up and before you start the outboard? They go away after acknowledged but nuisance.