GrumpyOlPhartte

I’m a fan of the Biospawn Exostick. Comes in 6” only, but I cut off the number of segments necessary to give the desired length. Seems to work well for me ... and it does give the bass something a little different.

@Skspacemonkey: I’m a big fan of Biospawn soft plastics. I find the 6.5 - inch PlasmaTail to in green pumpkin/plasma or black/blue to be effective here in our small, weedy lakes. From my experience, the tails on these guys do tend to float up a little which I like. (Gotta admit that bluegill and rock bass do like that plasma tail though.) But, to be honest, I really have much better luck with the Exostick. It’s my go-to small worm and I can cut off segments for finesse presentations. I can also rig it backwards for a little different action. Not sure if this helps, but I feel they are worth a shot.

@Catt: Oh, yeah? Well, at 69 I can name that tune in 19 notes. So there! Besides, if you aren’t using a snap, you are depriving yourself of one of bass fishing’s most annoying mistakes - forgetting to check your line for wear and fray. When you tie on a lure directly, you are almost guaranteed to remove frayed line; when you use a snap - if you are like me - you tend to forget to check your line and the next thing you know ... there goes ten bucks worth of lure hanging from the lip of a nice bass that broke you off at the kayak. (Oh, and give me 17-pound fluorocarbon and a breeze and I’ll provide you with a couple of minutes of entertainment while I wrestle with that sucker.) Still, I’m with you. I tie directly.

Haven’t tried the Carbon Fire but have a little experience with the Lew’s TP 1 with the identical description. I’d be willing to bet that as a twice-a-week kayak fisherman I’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference ... we’ll, I think I’d figure out the colors weren’t the same. Unless you’re a rod snob I think it would work fine. A couple of thoughts: I took my reel into the store and mounted it on the rod to see how it felt. Turned out the balance was exactly what I wanted. You might want to do the same. I would also check to see where the lure keeper is located. Not a big deal but if it’s on the butt it can be annoying, not to mention painful. There are add-on keepers (the Fuji EZ Keep for about $3.00 was recommended to me) if this is the case. May not be an issue but I believe some of the Lew’s rods are built this way. Regardless, I personally would be reluctant to buy a rod I can’t feel with my grubby mitts before purchasing. Recommendations are great ... if your hands are the same size as the ones advocating specific rods. Good luck.

Hmm... can’t add much to the suggestions above - they all sound good to me. Just a couple of thoughts. Do much early morning/evening fishing? I’d suggest expanding the surface bait selection, mebbe a black/dark Whopper Plopper type, popper, wakebait, even Jitterbug. (I try to have at least one shiny and one dark (or mebbe “natural” color for different water or lighting conditions.) If you start fishing early in the spring and the water is still cold, mebbe a jerk bait or two ... and I use the same philosophy for color choices as I mentioned above. In general, and this is just from my own experience, I’ve found I get a lot of bang for my buck by expanding the color selection of my confidence lures rather than getting too many new kinds of lures. Again, these are just a couple of random thoughts based on my bank fishing experience - all that went into the dumper when I got an inexpensive kayak! And, yup, that’s a suggestion too! Good luck!

@Blaine McGraw: Just a little add-on info regarding what @NickMWC said. I purchased a Trip 10 three years ago. It is a sit-in and with a few mods it has been a great little rig. I chose it because I had a list of requirements. It had to be light-weight so I could easily handle it, no longer than 10’6” so I could store it, and affordable ($500.00) excluding paddle and PFD. The roomy cockpit made access easy, another factor since I was old (hold the patent on dust). And it does keep me dry when the yahoos in their pontoon boats and 250-horse bass boats come blasting by!!! BUT, I will be 70 this year and although I work out, I am not sure I will want to climb in and out of a sit-in much longer. I am considering very seriously moving to a sit-on kayak. I was perusing the Dick’s website and noticed a Pelican “The Catch 100” for about $700.00. I wandered in to take a look at it and it might be just the thing. Decent seat with two heights, 34-inch beam, and 10-foot length. I wish I could afford some of the models mentioned above, but my wallet and my wife ganged up on me. Dick’s always seems to have a big kayak sale so you may get it for less. You might want to check out the Pelican. Anyway, if you click on my avatar you can see a pic of my modified Trip 10 to see what I did with a sit-in. Might give you some ideas if you go that route. I guess I’m not making any recommendations but maybe giving you a few thoughts as you consider your options. Good luck!

@Brian Jackson: I believe the restriction in MA applies to weights and jigs under one ounce. Weights, while expensive, are readily available around the Pittsfield area at Wal-Mart and Dick’s Sporting Goods. I found some high-quality tungsten jigs and shaker heads at Siebert Outdoors at a reasonable price. I would suggest taking a look at their website. Or, stating the obvious, go to any of the jig manufacturers and do a search for “tungsten”, or “lead free”. I believe there are other options such as tin or bismuth, if I remember correctly. I have seen shakey heads advertised by Tackle Warehouse by doing the search. But, you will have to determine if they meet your requirements. Hope this helps. EDIT: Duh, I should have read your post more closely. Sorry to restate the obvious. I e-mailed Siebert regarding tungsten swim jigs and at present they recommended to try the 3/8 - ounce arky. By by the way, OMTD, Keitech, BassTEK, and Eco-Pro advertise tungsten jigs, jig heads, and shakey heads.

Hmm. As I look out the window at the 10 to 16 inches of that white crap coming down I realize that today I could learn whether a baitcasting rig or a spinning rig goes better with snowshoes ... or not!

@GoneFishingLTN: I guess I would have to know the weight of the swimbaits you are interested in throwing. In my case I currently am limited to smaller lures (under two ounces). I do have a 7’2” rod (advertised as a frog/swimbait rod)which does handle small S-Wavers and Shine Glides Because of the weedy areas I fish, I expect this will only work in the early spring before the weeds become an issue. The rod is an Okuma TCS and has worked also worked very well with jigs and large T-rigs as well as my few swimbaits. (The most important thing, in my opinion, is to limit the weight of your swimbaits to the capacity of the rod until you get a rod designed specifically for larger swimbaits or switch to soft swimbaits. They can be killers too! @austinF: I agree with the above recommendations although my spinning rod is a 6’8” ML/F. Lets me experiment with small jigs, drop-shot, wacky rigs, and jerk baits for cold weather here in Massachusetts. I suspect that rod might be a little too light for most folks. I do have a M/F spinning rod to which I can swap my spinning reel later in the year. As the weeds emerge I will probably switch to the M/F rod if I have a want mto use spinning gear. Due to the unique fishing conditions here and my limited experience with anything other than frogs and weedless soft baits, I would take all this with a grain, if not shaker, of salt!!! Good luck to both of you.

Personal opinion here - not terribly scientific: 1. If you can throw a long cast from shore and it splashes when it lands instead of bouncing and sliding. 2. If you’re going stir-crazy and the wife tells you to get out of the house because you’re driving her nuts. Means it’s time to go fishing the pre-spawn!

As a once-or-twice-a-week fisherman who fishes extremely weedy lakes, I was a skeptic since anything with treble hooks is doomed to failure around here; however I was sucked in by a color called “Monkey Butt”. To be honest, I started with a black 90-sized model and caught five or six bass from shore in a half hour. Sounds good ... except the largest was just 10 inches!! That’s when I bit the bullet and bought a Monkey Butt in the 110 size. Got a really nice fish (I’m guessing around three pounds) but it broke off as I tried to get it in my kayak. What excites me about the Whopper Plopper is that even with the weedy environment I can use this lure because all my fish were caught before the lure had moved ten feet. I’ve found I don’t have to retrieve the lure far to get results! I cast to a hole in the weeds and let it sit ... and sit ... and sit. Then I twitch the lure and let it sit some more. Then I move it a foot or two and let it sit again. Yes, I can only move the lure a few a few feet before it gets covered in shrubbery but those few feet are exciting. Made me rethink my attitude about using treble-hook lures in weeds. The few casts I could fully retrieve didn’t result in fish, but that first ten feet is the secret for me. Kind of a pain in the butt to fish, but worth it. Oh, and I’ve only tried fishing it at dusk. This year I plan to experiment more during the day. As a side note I have picked up a couple of jerk baits to see if the same or a similar technique might work. It would be great to fish something besides soft plastic weedless rigs. Hope this info helps.

What @new2BC4bass said about the Daiwa BG spinning reels! I grabbed a 2500 last fall and they are, in my opinion, a really good buy even at the full retail price of $100.00. Much as I loved my old Pflueger President, I found the BG sits just a little closer to the ferrule which makes it easier for me to control feathering during my casts. (Unlike our president, I have rather short stubby fingers!) Also has a wider diameter spool which, in my opinion, means the line coils are not as small as on the Pflueger and seems to improve casting and line management. For me it balances well on a Lew’s TP1 6’8” ML/F rod for my finesse fishing but still slings a wacky rig, KVD 1.5 squarebill, or small Rapala X-Rap (1/4 ounce) as far as I need. Edit: Probably could have gone with a smaller size reel, but I didn’t know if the smaller sizes have the wide-diameter spool and just like the way it balances the rod for me.

@NHBull: As a kayak guy, I’ve found the Manley baitcaster rod to be the best thing since sliced bread! (manleyrods.com) I am in no position to speak of it’s sensitivity compared to all the big-name rods, but I found it to be a huge step up from the venerable UglyStik Rods with which I started. And for a kayak guy, the adjustable butt length is marvelous. The butt can be adjusted a distance of six inches so it’s no hassle in a kayak, but extends for my bank fishing. He may want to take a look at the MRK5GM17 spinning rod which extends from 7’ to 7’6” and is rated as M/F and suitable for lure weights from 3/16- to 5/8-ounce. It may be a tad heavier than other comparable rods, but that retractable butt is worth its weight in gold to me. Anyway, the construction on mine seems flawless and the Gold Series was $150.00 shipped to my door in a PVC tube. Another biggie for me is Mr. Manley’s willingness to talk to even hacks like me who made a one-rod purchase ... so far. Might be worth a look.

Dang! My biggest largemouth was 4.2 pounds (according to my cheap-o scale). Looks more like it would have been bait for some of the slobs a few of you tied into. Caught it on a six-inch BioSpawn Exostick (black/blue). Got my personal best smallmouth on a twelve-inch Zoom Ol’ Monster (South Africa) but it doesn’t count since I was fishing for largemouths and it (a.) wasn’t supposed to be in warm shallow water and (b.) had no business hitting a worm that big. (Not that I’m complaining.)

@rippin-lips is correct. I do go overboard. Don’t know how I got into the habit ... love to tinker and tweak. I only fish once or twice a week so the night before I clean and relube. Oh, yeah, and we’re only talking three reels here. These guys with fifteen or twenty reels would be up all night. Takes me 10 minutes with a Q-tip, paper towel, and reel oil.

So I’m thinking about trying some punching; so what size sinker do I use for six inches of ice?? At least I don’t have to use tungsten for anything for any sinker over one ounce! Thinking maybe a VMC Anvil might work. Wonder if I can get one in green pumpkin.

@RMax Just wonder if you regularly oil your reel. I’ve found it a good practice to put a drop of oil on each bearing of the spool before each trip. Probably not necessary every trip, but you shouldn’t let it go too long. The second thing i check is the worm shaft which guides the level wind assembly. Crud slowly builds up as you fish and can slow down the action. Sometimes I need a Q-tip to wipe the gunk out of the grooves of the pawl. After cleaning, I put a drop of oil on the pawl and any shaft across which the level wind might travel. Might be something to check. Good luck!

@deep I thank you ... and the Bait Monkey thanks you since I was going to use my gift card to just buy hooks and trailers.

Dang! I’m sure you folks will identify this as a rookie question, but although I have sworn to concentrate on jigs and finesse baits this year, I have seen and watched so much on the production of jerkbaits that I am contemplating picking up a Megabass (or some other make and model) with which to fool around if I get bored or impatient with the slower fishing methods. Besides, the Bait Monkey said it was OK since I’d be using a gift card so it’s not like I’m spending my own money. I’m not asking for advice on which jerkbait, but I am really wondering about technique. I fish from a sit-in kayak so obviously if I attempt to jerk my rod tip down, the results will be humorous, but not very productive. So, can I fish a jerkbait by working it with a side action? Would particularly like to hear from other kayak fishermen about successes and failures. Seems to me I could still jerk my rod to the side since I seldom fish in deep water and have to keep the lure above weeds, but maybe I am overlooking something. Any thoughts on this approach? Thanks in advance and I hope this isn’t considered highjacking the thread.

@E-DOG Don’t misunderstand - wasn’t trying to sell ya on anything; I went through the same machinations buying my baitcasting rigs. I can relate my reasons fo my choices, but don’t feel I know enough to make a recommendation. Sometimes ya get advice, but sometimes some really sharp guys on here know their gear, but overlook the fact they don’t know much about us, the ones seeking advice and information. Glad ya worked it out! Hope ya kill ‘em with the new setup!

@E-DOG As a rookie finesse fisherman I was overwhelmed with the options in your price range. Finally, in desperation, I took the plunge and got a Daiwa BG 2500 spinning reel and a Lew’s TP 1 ML/F rod. (Probably could have gone with a BG 2000.) The deciding factors were cost and availability here in the boondocks of western MA. I’m trying not to second-guess myself because for the short time I was able to use this combo, it performed very well. (I’m sure there will be a bunch of guys who will tell you it’s a lousy choice ... but, dang, it works just fine for me.) Turns out the reel is really solid and seems to sit a little closer to the rod and has a wide-diameter spool which makes feathering my casts easier. The rod casts everything I use it for without a single issue. Time will tell, but for now I’m not looking back, just forward to working on my finesse technique as soon as the ice disappears. In the end, I suspect you’ll end up like me and just shoot your best shot, but if at all possible, get your hands on the rod at least. Remember that when any of us recommend a piece of equipment, we are basing it on what works for us. Beware the individual telling you that the WhizBang XQ99 rod or the Furschlugginer Fog 9000 reel is the way to go. It may be perfect for him/her, but you are an individual with specific requirements, techniques, experience and budget. I’ve found lots of outstanding info here, but not always applicable to me. So, when it’s time, look at all the hot, smokey info, maybe find a consensus, then just go for it! I doubt any of the aforementioned recommendations will be the wrong choice.

What @OnthePotomac said! For me, it seems as if I get more hits when using a craw-style bait so the “claws” are vertical as opposed to the normal horizontal method. (How many fish have a horizontally oriented caudal fin.) I do prefer at least a 5/0 hook though - to penetrate the extra plastic. Totally unscientific observation but I’ve had better luck with Pit Bosses, Chigger Craws, Craw Fatties, and VileCraws by rigging them this way as trailers. Might be worth a shot.

What @Sam said!! I’m in a similar situation. After three years back in the sport I am in the same predicament. Have been reading and watching vids on finesse fishing after obtaining a 6’8” ML/F rod and a 2500-series reel and have just about driven myself nuts just trying to choose a line or line/leader combination. At present I think the most popular choices for finesse fishing are (in no particular order): 1. 6 - 10# mono, copolymer, or fluorocarbon line which, for me, eliminates the need for a leader and I am not personally comfortable with the leader knot (whether Double Uni, Crazy Alberto, or even FG) going through these new-fangled micro guides. 2. 12 - 15# braid with leader (apparently the lighter braids may have issues with the line “digging in” on the reel although it’s unclear to me if the problem is as severe as on a bait-casting reel. I could be wrong based on what Sam has said ... although I am curious about that 14-ounce jig. LOL!!! I hope someone clarifies this. It seems the first choice makes the most sense for me since I seriously doubt I’ll be wrestling with any 10-pounders in the lakes of western Massachusetts, but the braid makes more sense if I want to maybe use some light jigs or T-rigs. As for even choosing a brand, the choices are mind-boggling! I am considering Seaguar Finesse if I go with fluorocarbon; probably Silver Thread (have used P-Line Fluoroclear in 12# and found it not to be as supple as I would like though this might not be an issue with lighter weight line) if I go with copolymer; and Sufix Elite for mono since I already have some Sufix and do like it. I hear and read a lot about Tatsu and other premium (read ”costly”) lines, but can’t justify the expense. I’ll be following this thread with great interest to see if it narrows down my options and there’s no rush - the temp this morning is a balmy -8 so I’m not getting the yak out just yet. I’m not sure if this rambling discourse helps, but it surely is an indication of what you are facing. Good luck and I’ll be very interested in seeing your final choices and why you made them.

Ok. So I’m guilty of enjoying my PlayStation 3. This morning the temp is -2 with a windchill factor of -18; however, it’s supposed to reach a balmy 0 today. I have quite a few games but my favorites are: Destiny Fallout 3 Borderlands (series) Oblivion (Elder Scrolls V) All my reels have been cleaned and lubed - pinion gear in one has been replaced, lures have been sorted, hooks checked, and some replacement stuff ordered; and (because I like to tinker) I’ve ordered a couple of sets of ceramic bearings which I am going to install just to see how they affect my “economy” reels’ performance. And my mind is whirling with all the info I’ve read and viewed on finesse fishing and jig fishing. Right now I couldn’t choose a line (or line/leader combination) for my new finesse rod and reel if I had to so that’s on hold for the moment. So that leaves reading and my video games! And I’m not feeling guilty at all! After all, I gotta keep my reactions and dexterity up to par for spring!!

A wise man ( @NHBull ) steered me to Sufix 832 braid and for me it provides everything I require for my fishing. In my opinion, it seems to be stronger (or at least more resistant to failure due to kinks from my backlashes) than two other lines (Power-Pro and Spiderwire) that I tried. It also seems supple and more fade-resistant than the other two. I would say the Spiderwire would be a close second for me. You’ll get a lot of opinions on this and ... guess what? At some point you have to decide for yourself how far you want to go in the line selection process to decide which line you prefer. I tried three affordable alternatives and settled on one. And as long as I have no problems, I’ve vowed not to try any more braids. So there, Bait Monkey!!! Good luck!