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jimf

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About jimf

  • Birthday April 10

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bolingbrook, Illinois
  • My PB
    Between 6-7 lbs
  • Favorite Bass
    Largemouth & Smallmouth
  • Other Interests
    St. Louis Cardinal baseball and St. Louis Blues hockey.

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  1. I fish downstream alot for bass, but also for trout. The trout waters I fish are small spring creeks, sidewalk to driveway width. A killer technique is to stand above a riffle where it falls into deeper water and just let a little bead headed nymph swim in the pool. When they stop biting kick up a bunch of rocks and silt and let it drift down, that releases some food downstream and seems to turn them back on. Dry flies upstream, but I do alot of downstream trout fishing.
  2. I like the magnetic release net's @Turkey sandwichmentioned. The only problem with those is if you are out of the water and bushwacking through some thick vegetation and timber that elastic cord can get hung up without you really knowing it until it let's go and whomps you on the back of the head. I would never ever consider neoprene waders. Do they still sell those? Breathables with proper layering underneath is the way to go. I use usgs.gov for all of my river level needs, I was not aware that info was available on other weather sites. The interface is clumsy but the information is there. If you fish really small, clear water streams and creeks, it's probably advisable to fish from shore and use your waders (or hippers) to get to the other side when needed. When I am trout fishing small spring creeks I'm never fishing in the water unless I need a casting lane. I fish some smaller water for smallmouth as well and take that same approach.
  3. Experienced wader here, anywhere from small spring creeks you could jump across to large rivers for smallmouth. Good advice by toxic. I would add: - Shuffle, don't walk. By shuffling your feet instead of picking them up and walking you reduce risk of tripping. - If you get caught in some faster current and there is a risk of being swept away, pick a spot on shore at a 45 or more degree angle and make progress in a diagonol by slowly shuffling one foot at a time. Start with the lead foot and make a small step and then drag the back foot. Reduce your profile by turning sideways to the current. Don't panic, if you get swept away let the current take you and don't fight against it. - Fishing related technique, kind of a parlor trick. Fish that live in current (trout, smallmouth) will naturally use objects that break the current as structure. As a wader, you just became one of those pieces of structure! It doesn't work as well in crystal clear water, but I often will stand in one place for a few minutes and fish straight downstream. I often catch fish within a few feet of where I am standing. I never use a wading staff but I don't disagree that it's a good safety measure. I also use the least amount of wader material as possible - if you can get away with it hip waders for example. I generally use those in small spring creeks when trout fishing. Wading boots ... don't automatically go with felted bottoms. Those things get slicker than snot if the bottom has rocks with algae, or if you have to climb out of a steep muddy bank. My go-to wading boot is a Simms G3 Guide boot. It's a treaded soul that gives traction in those conditions. As far as rock guards, I recommend a good pair of waders that just have a clip to attach to your boot which does the trick. I've owned Patagonia and Simms waders Go light. I lanyard is ideal for carrying a few lures and important tools. Wading is fun. I'm 54 now and my back can't quite deal with 6-8 hours on the water like that, so I tend to fish more out of a boat. But I'll still go out and wade, and I love to do so in the fall when the leaves are turning. Being in the river is just relaxing, a more connected feeling.
  4. First time launch story above reminded me of mine. This would have been 30+ years ago, bought an older but very gently used 15' Cajun bass boat. I had no idea what I was doing, but loaded with confidence. Bad combo. Took it out on the Missouri River in March upstream of St. Charles MO. Cold fast current. Because my wife was with me and she was really nervous with the vehicle's back wheels in the water, I unhitched the boat and had her park before I even started the engine. I had forgotten to attach the fuel line, it took a minute to figure that out, and in the meantime I'm drifting fast and out of control down the river. Put the fuel line on and still it wouldn't fire, and then I remembered I needed to prime it which I did with gusto. Flooded the engine. There were rocky bluffs on the shore and I was dangerously close to them, used the paddle to keep from running aground. Even if the trolling motor battery was charged (which it wasn't), it wouldn't have helped in that current. A couple of guys in a jonboat saw the emergency and rescued me, I eventually got the engine started and took it for a test spin, and then got the boat out of the water with a newfound respect for boat ownership. Today I could launch and load in my sleep, you forget that you weren't just born with these skills. I always tell people new to boating that you need to take some time and learn a few skills before you go out, it's not rocket science but there is potential for danger and great embarrassment. Since then I've had no major issues, leave the tiedowns on now and then and other minor infractions, but nothing major. I always make sure that the engine starts before I'm untied, launching alone usually I generally just tie up to the dock or a tree, but I won't untie until the engine is fired up. I did have one boneheaded move that was potentially serious - I failed to lock the trailer hitch. Half way down it hit me, I pulled over and sure enough the hitch was just resting on the ball. One good bump and I would have had the issues described by UPSmallie. I did have the safety chains on.
  5. This isn't limited to a lifetime of bonehead things, right? We are talking only past few weeks? If the former, I could write a book. If the latter, then: 1. Forgetting to take the tie down straps off and wondering why the boat wouldn't float off of the trailer. 2. Leaving tackle bag at home, yet still managing to go out and catch just as many fish as I normally would with what was tied to the rods. 3. Misjudging how far the boat would drift on a windy day as I was taking a pee and drifting into sight of another boat that had a women on it. 4. Letting my wife try casting a bait casting reel. There are many things I like for my wife to grab a hold of, my baitcasting rigs it turns out is not one of them.
  6. I have a bunch of ponds at the campus I work at with some nice bass in them, so I figured I would do a little experiment and fish through the eclipse. We got about 88% coverage here at 1:18-1:20, I started fishing about 12:45 and intentionally fished the same spot and just fan casted a lipless crankbait. Nothing until 1:10 when I got a 9" bass, and then another at 1:16. At 1:30 exactly, this guy: I am thinking about writing a book: Fishing the Eclipse. It's a niche topic I agree, but hey next time an eclipse comes your way you will be prepared with the knowledge that I can share with you.
  7. If I won the powerball I would have a couple of places ... Table Rock for bass from April-ish to June, SW Montana for trout from Jul - Sep, and then maybe down to the Keys for the winter. That would be a life!
  8. I used to do alot of fly fishing and have caught a bird and a bat, both took the fly out of midair on a backcast. It's not all that uncommon actually, although when I tell the story everyone who isn't a fly angler can't believe it. The other thing I caught was unidentified and still gives me the heebie-jeebies a little. Night fishing (wading) in the Fox River in Geneva, IL, I hooked and played something large, which I think was an eel. It rolled once but as it was dark I couldn't for sure say what I saw, but the image is burned in my brain. I was not disappointed when it got off. I also "caught" a starfish once.
  9. 80 degrees is ideal, other conditions (such as dissolved O2) being met. In one of Ralph Mann's articles, he has a Bass Myth test and one of the questions is: Do Bass Prefer 72o F water? His answer: This is the most persistent, most repeated, most misleading myth in bass literature. Numerous scientific tests show that bass, given a choice of temperature with no other conflicting options, choose to live in water between about 76o F and 86o F, and tolerate temperatures up to 95o F. You have to consider so many factors of course, but 80 degree water means their metabolisms are jacked and they will eat. The short answer to where they are in 80 degree water is wherever there is food.
  10. $80 - wow. I like the rod so far. I'm actually really getting used to and even liking the split grips. I caught a huge bluegill the other night in my backyard pond on it - with a buzzbait. That was fun.
  11. Got a new Avid-X last week for spinnerbaits, a MH/F 6'6". I was actually using a M/XF rod just because that was my extra rod, needed some more backbone I thought. Broke it in the night I bought it with a couple of 1.5#'s in my backyard pond, but yesterday I got into something that made me glad I had the extra backbone. Close enough to 4 to call it 4:
  12. Here is a great article of interest: edit .. ok link didn't work, here is the cut/paste. Ralph Mann's wrote this. What Bass Eat Black bass, particularly Largemouth bass, will eat practically anything that moves and they can get into their mouths that doesn't fight back so hard they get hurt. But, this doesn't mean they routinely eat odd items like snakes, birds, turtles, ducklings, or bread crumbs. There have been more food habit studies made on bass that any other type of scientific study. They all found the same basic facts. Adult bass diets consist mainly of smaller fish and small crustaceans (shrimp, crawfish, and small crabs in brackish water), and some frogs. All the other things they eat like snakes, ducklings, salamanders, field mice, whatever ___ are incidental and usually less than 2 percent of the total bass diet. The dominant bass food is almost always the most readily available prey of suitable size. With second place going to the next most readily catchable prey type. Tadpoles are easy prey if they blunder into deep water. That likely is the reason frogs tend to lay eggs only in very shallow shoreline edges where bass can not range easily. It is also why we see almost no tadpoles or larval salamanders sharing deeper water with abundant bass. Bass that try to eat a toad, which has toxic/poisonous/foul-tasting skin, learn never to eat another. They also avoid frogs thereafter, apparently unable to see the differences. Bass that try to eat baby turtles quickly learn turtles have claws and are hard to crush, kill, and swallow. Tiny turtles claw and tear up the gills and throats of bass. Usually a bass only tries a turtle once. Small baby snakes may be easy prey, but things that fight back and might even win are usually avoided. Most big bass don't try to eat big snakes and cottonmouth snakes are to be avoided. Even lunker bass are more likely to eat a 2- to 3-inch crawfish than to take on a full grown 7-inch super-clawed, hard-shelled monster. That claws up, face the bass, and snap and pinch tactic of crawfish exists because it WORKS and keeps them alive in hostile waters. I surmise that big worms don't really imitate big snakes, because bass eat them so readily. Small worms are likely taken because they imitate small fish. Besides shad and minnows, there are many small catfish, and darters on the bottom of most waters, and these fish are preferred and easy to catch bass foods. A worm, fry, or grub worked slowly along the bottom is a good imitator. Keep in mind that bas really don’t see details very well. That’s why the hit lures that a 4-year old human knows aren’t real minnows. I suggest anglers usually stick to fish and crawfish imitations for maximum success at bassing. But, there are times when the rare and unusual is needed to interest an inactive fish or two. I love to experiment with odd baits, but most "helicopter lures" and duckling imitations really don't work very well. The Hannon snake head worked, as it helped float the typical sinking plastic worms of the 80s and allowed a floating-worm presentation. But, I suspect the look of a snake wasn’t very important and that any floating worm of equal size would work about as well.
  13. My #2 PB is from the St. Peters Missouri public golf course pond. This was back in the late 80's, no clue if they let you still fish there or not. It was right by my house and I would hit it before/after work pretty regularly.
  14. I had an experience last weekend when launching that might help - transom straps. Those need to come OFF before the boat launches. For the life of me I couldn't understand why the boat wasn't coming off the trailer! Stuff happens. Fortunately I've never forgotten (knock on wood) to put the drain plug in.
  15. I have gone through a period of upgrading over 3 years now, as I have gone back to more conventional fishing after mostly fly fishing for ~20 years. My current lineup is almost all St. Croix: Mojo Bass Crankbait Rod (older generation, my least favorite rod of the bunch). I use it for crankbaits. Mojo Bass Frog Rod - 7'2" H/F. I use it for frogs. Avid 7' MH/F. Multi-use rod, but lately it's mostly had a jig tied to it. LTB 6'8" MH/F. Worm rod. Avid spinning - 6'6" M/F. Shaky-heads, Walleye jigging. Avid X - 6'6" MH/F. Spinnerbaits Triumph spinning - 6'6" ML/F. Finesse Daiwa Lexa - 6'6" M/XF. Was my spinnerbait rod but I just replaced it, probably topwater stuff. St. Croix Panfish model - 6' UL. Panfish. I really liked the St. Croix fly rods that I had purchased over the years, and naturally looked at those when I started beefing up my conventional lineup. Once I bought an Avid I was sold for good.
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