Wayne P.

How much is your life worth?

The topic title is what it is.,

I think I have posted this before. It may have been the same day. If you notice in the first screenshot where the fish are under the depth readout on the bottom and then this one with the same thing. That is a sure catch when you see it. The ones that are suspended over deeper water are much harder to catch. When they trap baitfish against the bottom contour you know they are munching.

The top of the thermocline was at 22', I just set the map highlighting to show that and just above it and then checked those depths at contour features that are suitable for the season/water temp. I fished where I saw fish with my electronics, I did not fish where I did not see any fish. I don't waste time doing that.

Read this post to learn how to easily determine where to look for fish when the thermocline is present. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/161227-navionics-mobile-app/

I fish where the fish are----at the top and above the strongest sonar returns of the thermocline and below the warmest water. The thermocline reflects sound (sonar) due to the water density change caused by rapid temperature change.

Smith Mountain Lake Leesville Lake Carvin Cove Res. Douthat

Been using the Uni-uni Knot for 40+ years. I sort of know how to tie it too. Never had a failure. I use the Uni-knot for terminal tackle and direct lure connection also. Actually I have no issues with the Uni-uni knot using micro guides like the Ducket Micro Magic has. I use 20# fluorocarbon and 40# superline--6 turns on both sides. I use the FG knot interchangeably to keep in practice--no issues either way. The only other knot I use is the Palomar for a dropshot hook. If you use the FG knot maybe you need to practice that.

I can tie it just a quickly or more so as a 6 turn Uni-uni Knot in my den or on the boat.

X-rap giant from last week:

Remember how far you cast when fishing from shore and caught fish? Well that is where the fish are. I see so many boaters casting right up against the shore and the fish are either under the boat or behind them a majority of the year.

Ethernet provides data transfer, not power. Each unit has its own power cord.

Yes the fg knot is the best with micro-guides.

No, it's the Surface Clarity setting. Manual page 21

If the waters you fish have have weeds that have a max depth. Set the highlighting at that depth + or - a couple of feet, and you can see all around the lake where the weed points and cuts are. One I fish, the weeds don't grow any deeper than 12'. Instant weed pattern. On my sonar/GPS units, I use the Shaded Depth for that. That colors from the shore to the set depth. I use that to create another "shoreline".

I was doing some Sonar Charts Live yesterday and since the thermocline is present, I used the Map Options Fishing Mode to indicate the level of the thermocline to make it easier to find the areas when it intersected with the bottom. The depth hightlighting (white) is set at 18'-22' Using the thermocline pattern resulted in 27 bass caught. "it's so easy a cave man can do it"

I have an Eliminator on my Motor Guide. It does make the motor run quieter. It is a heat sink for the prop shaft.

BIGGER is good for having more history displayed and for views with more than one technology displayed. The only real time sonar data is the very first vertical row of screen pixels on the right edge.

"a great deal"? no, better YES. It improves all SI models that are shipped with the compact SI transducer. Humminbird has a transducer exchange program. Contact them when you get the unit, and don't open the mount package. The exchange price including shipping is about $85 caskey_b that posted images above did that for his 899ci HD SI Combo.

It's more than just CHIRP. There is true CHIRP with the very expensive transducers. There is cheap CHIRP with a standard transducer. Some units have WiFi. So you have CHIRP, Cheap, CHIRP, Tweet.

A picture of what you are seeing would be helpful to determine what, if any, issue you have.

If you want the sonar to work correctly for shoot-thru, the transducer and the hull should be one piece. That takes a solid connection with EPOXY. ANY flexible material will absorb some of the sonar pulse strength so it cannot work full strength. You have to remember the transducer transmits sound and the transducer face and hull have to vibrate at the same rate. Then the returning sonar echos have to be detected by the hull and to the transducer face at the same vibration rate. The next best shoot-thru installation is a pool of liquid with the transducer inside so the liquid forms the solid bond to the hull. That liquid can be water, oil, anti-freeze, etc since it does not compress like putty or duct seal. ANYTHING less is just that----LESS Additionally the hull material has to be of a solid nature, without any aeration that would keep it floating if submerged. Externally mounted like flyfisher suggested is the best way if you do not use epoxy or the pool method.

It is not difficult. Several things that should be done so it works correctly: Connect the bow unit power cord directly to the battery-NOT the boat wiring harness. Use the proper transducer on the trolling motor for whichever 859 you have. Proper routing of the transducer cable on the motor--what motor do you have? Did you get the AS EC QDE adaptor for the 859 so you have the Ethernet cable connection?

I don't need a pole-----yet. I put these on my Tracker trailer:

Some think throwing stuff in the water excites the fish and gets them to bite.