Wayne P.

I disagree with Edwin Evers analysis of the use of braid when Carolina rigging. While it does float when not under tension, it is smaller per pound test than any mono including fluorocarbon and has less water resistance. When Carolina rigging, the line is under tension all the time due to dragging of the weight. Carolina rigging is not a slack line presentation that would preclude the use of slightly floating braid. Another thing, the braids float as compared to monos but even the slightest tension will pull it under the surface. The weight of a bare hook will pull it under. Even mono will float due to surface tension if not prewetted or weighted. Try it sometime, just throw a couple of feet of dry mono overboard and watch it float. Have you ever gotten mono line around your trolling motor shaft or OB propeller shaft-someone discarded some line and it didn't sink. Don't leave it there though, LOL. As far a leader material, I use fluorocarbon with lures that I want to keep close to the bottom. I use regular mono when I don't want a bottom hugging presentation or I want a slower fall especially fishing in weeds.

I don't use any additional weight unless the wind is blowing, in current, or I am fishing deeper than 5 or 6 feet. I use a fluorocarbon leader with braid and the fluorocarbon is for the weight since the braid floats. In the summer, I use a lead nail (Lunker City) weight to catch bass in 20-30 foot depths. Since I use that rig so much and the lead nails are hard to find and expensive, I buy size 3d finishing nails by the pound and use those when necessary. I used almost a full pound of those nails last year. Just bought another 1 pound box yesterday for this year. Also I use spinning gear 95% of the time.

Additional information. The Gamakatsu Octopus 2/0 hook is the #02412, and the 3/0 is #02413. The 2/0 is used with the finesse worm and the 3/0 is used with the Trick worm. Owner has a similar hook with a slightly smaller wire size but the largest size available is 2/0, it is the Mosquito Hook #5177-121. I mash the barb down to make removal easier on the fish and me. It's makes hook penetration easier and doesn't result in any lost fish. I also carry a pair of curved hemostats for hook removal since the hook shank is so short, it is difficult with fingers or even straight pliers. Those same hooks are used for exposed point rigging also when the chance of hangups is minimal.

I rig it this way. http://mysite.verizon.net/restmvit/wacky.html

You know the ole saying that "big lures catch big fish". Well little lures catch all size fish. I use the 1/16 oz. Roadrunner a lot with a 2" white curlytail grub and have caught bass up to 7# with it. It's a great post cold front lure. The best ones to handle bigger fish are the ones with the Gammy hooks. I use 20# Whiplash and a buddy of mine uses the Spiderwire Fusion in 10#, both lines are no longer available.

Avid, a 6 turn uni-knot will not slip if you do your part correct. The only "slip" I have ever had is the line will slip through the hook eye gap with the smaller diameter lines when Tx rigging if I don't keep checking it's movement. I've had the most problem with the 30# Spiderwire Original since it's equal to 6# mono in diameter. I've since solved that problem by blocking the gap. I tie a polamar knot, cut the line and leave the knot in place, slide the knot around to the gap before tying on the hook.

Favorites, Stren Super Braid in 20# and 30#, Stealth in 50#, Original Spiderwire in 30# and 60#, Stren Magnathin in 12# and 16#, XPS Fluorocarbon in 14# and 20#, McCoys Mean Green in 6# and 8#, Fireline in 14#.

I've been using super braids since they were first introduced. I always use mono backing to about mid depth of the spool and then fill up with the braid (about 50-75 yards) on spinning gear and baitcasting gear. I can get three reels spooled with one braid purchase and the braid will last for several years. I reverse the braid when it looses it's color or starts looking frizzy. Also after I have retied enough to see the joining knot on a long cast, I just replace the rest with enough to fill the spool again. I don't particularly like Power Pro, it has too rough a texture for my taste.

Yes, Triton_Mike. I bought 8 of them and then purchased one of the Harmonix rods they sell with one installed. Great product from Diane and Steve.

"Nice and white" is healthy. Darkened skin from sun exposure is the recipe for skin cancer. Been there, done that= quartely visits to a dermatologist.

Fishing-fool, it seems your statement is pure HOGWASH.

I can't find a listing of a model 897, are you talking about the 987si? If you are, then you have the wrong application for best results. The transducer needs to be placed on a non rotating surface to prevent distortion of the image in the scanning mode. Check this site for everything you need to know about it's capabilities. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sideimaging/

If you have not had any claims before, your insurance should not increase.

For your part of the country, a chartreuse skirt with a white and a chartreuse willow will get those smallmouths. Booyah and Terminator has that combination as a stock color. If you can find any with both blades in chartreuse it would be even better.

Solving the braid/rock problem. It's so easy you'll say "why didn't I think of that". Get some small diameter rubber hose, cut a piece about 1/4" in length, slide it on the main line before putting on the sinker and tie as usual. The rubber will keep the area of the line at the sinker from contacting the rocks or other abrasive substances and as a side benefit, it will reduce hangups in the rocks due to it's flexibility.

I recommend the Lowrance H2O or H2Oc as they have a built-in map and have a card slot to add mapping software when you are comfortable enough to upgrade to more detail. Lowrance has some lake maps available for free on their site. They are so easy to use: "Even a cave man can do it."

I find a solid pattern about 95% of the time in 1 to 3 hours. Statics for 2006 Total of 2,320 bass Total of 27 different bodies of water Total of 118 fishing days 4#> 10 5#> 15 6#> 4 7#> 3 9#> 1 10#> 1

I use the uni-knot of all connections with fluorocarbon, never have a problem. My favorite braid is Stren Super Braid.

Weedless Wacky with an Octopus hook.

I got a couple of the original ones. They are filed in my "Gotcha" file with Flying Lures and Helicopter Lures.

I have the H2O non color unit. I use it with the Navionics HotMaps Premium software and also the free download maps at the Lowrance site (has a good one of Lake Fork). I also use it a little for on-road navigation using the built in map. From my research, it is easier to use than other brands of handhelds. The main concern should be if the lakes you want are available with any software version.

I use braid with fluorocarbon for 90% of my fishing. I use the uni-uni knot connection with 6 turns on both lines. The line sizes I use are 20# and 30# braid with 20# fluourcarbon for all waters (super clear to muddy). Never had a knot slip or break when fighting any fish. I just tie it S-L-O-W-L-Y and lubricated, I trim the tag ends flush and the knot passes through the smalles of rod tip guides.

A friend of mine did this article about the way I do it most of the time. Additionally I use the same set up when open hook rigging when not around objects. http://mysite.verizon.net/restmvit/wacky.html

For wacky rigging a 5" Senko, I use the Gammy finesse wide gap hook in 2/0 or 3/0

I don't put the hook through the Toad body except at the head. I just put the bend of the hook between the legs and then skin hook the point on the top. That eliminates the bulky body from filling up the hook bend. The Toad usually moves out of the hook bend on the hook set for a more secure penetration.