Wayne P.

Trev, thanks for the fishing location advice. I have been fishing Lake Anna for over 30 years and know how and where to successfully catch bass there in all seasons. My point is that some of the best summertime fishing areas seem to be the chosen path of travel by watercraft of any description no mater if another watercraft is already there or not. I or no one else should to be harassed by non-caring, rude water craft operators where ever we choose to fish. If you are not one of those , THANK YOU. Basically, I don't have to and won't go hide in a cove to leave you or anyone else a particular spot to play.

Trev, some of the best summer fishing spots are within sight of the State Park and in the middle of the lake. You are fooling yourself if you think the bass go in the back of some cove to hide from the reckless antics of jet skiers and water skiers. There are no shady or heavy cover areas on the lake. Some of the best times to catch bass in the summer is mid day.

The V hull will be significantly LESS stable with the stated LOAD. You should find out the weight capacity of the boat including batteries, tackle, motor/s and persons to determine the suitability.

What country are they made in?

I have the Lowrance H2O and Navionics software. I also have some of the free download maps from the Lowrance website on another SD card. You have to check the map softwate websites to see if the lakes you are interested in are included. Lowrance Hot Spots and Navionics Hotmaps are the two that work with the H2O and H2Oc. Garmin has that type of hand held device also.

Old idea with new parts. Don't have one and wouldn't buy one. The wire weedguard is a deterrent to the fish as it will stick them in the roof of their mouth when they take it in and they will reject it. It is just like the Snagless Sally and the original Uncle Buck's Buzzer. If you get one, bend about 1/4" of the tip down towards the hook shank to lessen that effect. The wire frame is just a copy of another one made a few years ago using braided steel cable. That one is not in production any more if that gives you a hint.

Simply put, it will be 5 times stronger with no stretch. Anyone that doesn't use all three types of line isn't taking advantage of the properties of each.

You can do it the non-messy elcheapo way with a toothpick. After threading on the worm burying the hook eye in the worm, just stick a round toothpick thru the worm and hook eye, then cut off the parts of the toothpick that stick out past the worm.

I prefer most all of the BPS spinning rods with the balancing system because of the handle. I don't like all the other mfg rods with exposed reel seat threads and locking mechanism. The only thing better is the Tennessee handle styles.

Rude fishermen are the most irritating for me. Everthing else is tolerable.

I have been to both, but to Hunting Run the most recently (Friday). Check fishingva.com for reports. Hunting Run is 2.2 miles after you take a left at the stoplight on Rt. 3 at Chancellorsville Battlefield. It is 420 acres, electric motors only. There are jon boats, and electric motors for rent if you have the need. Yes, two permits are required, one for the property access ( ??? )and one for boat launch ($3). Both are available at the check-in shack. I have a lifetime access permit 'cause I am as old as dirt.

I don't know the actual size, but Gammy has the G-Mag Oversize that may work if you add your own weight. I use those for swimming frogs.

You wasted your money just like I did. I also got the one with the Rat-L-Trap style lure attached-- waste-waste-waste

What is the actual length? I have an older 379T (17' 9" )with a Faststrike 150 and I get 68.4 mph GPS and all I did was have the engine mounted as high as it would go-I don't have a jack plate. I run a Raker 24". It's a handfull over 60 mph.

Three things about fluorocarbon lines that make casting it different than nylon monos. First is it's more dense and therefor weighs more so the longer the cast, the further you can cast. Second is the surface finish is harder and smoother so it has less resitance in the rod guides which makes for longer casts also. Third is it's stiffer than nylon monos and will build up loose line against your thumb with baitcasting gear. Using more spool tension than with nylon monos or braids will help.

BassinAssassin171, there is aleady a suspending Rat-L-Trap it's called the red zone model. ablefisher, Pinpoint trolling motors had that feature also coupled with a sonar unit to maintain the selected depth. PM sent about the Octopus hook

OK, I'll play This is not my heaviest, but is almost the longest at 27 inches and 10# 4 ounces

One day I was swimming a weightless 7 1/2 Red Shad Culprit through some scattered grass around a cypress tree and-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I use 30# Stren Super Braid with about 4' of 20# XPS Fluorocarbon on spinning gear. I use a 6 turn on both sides uni-uni knot. No problems casting or retrieving through a 6 mm rod tip. I cut off the tag ends flush with the knots and don't use any glue. Most of the time I will replace the leader after about 100-150 bass. I have never had a casting or fish related breakoff with that setup and it's been about 5 years. When I get hung up on some underwater obstacle and have to break off, usually the line breaks at the hook and that is usually due to fish teeth abraison making the line weaker. I use a 4 turn uni-uni knot for the braid to mono backing connection. When I first started using fluorocarbon, I used Vanish and it would break where you stated, but the cause was from friction when tying the knot and poor quality line. Sinced I switched to the XPS, no problems. I suspect your knot tying ability is the culprit or the new Berkley fluorocarbon is just relabled Vanish with lower breaking strength per line diameter as compared to original Vanish. (compare the two line diameters in the same pound test)

A black large bass size flyrod popping bug on ultra light spinning gear matches the hatch.

A spinnerbait has a large hook with a large barb, most lost fish are due to lack of hook penetration past the barb. Too much line stretch, too weak of a hook set, or too light of an action of the rod is the primary reason for the lack of hook penetration. Correct all of those and your landing precentage will increase.

My 20 year old Bass Pro Shops medium heavy, 5' 6", non blank-thru pistol grip casting rod for spinnerbaits and Chatterbaits.

My favorite is the bass's favorite and is the most productive-a Zoom finesse worm rigged wacky and weedless wacky.

"It's like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get."

The water access is gravel. The lake is being held 8' low because of the lack of residential drain field relocations so the cement ramp is not even in the water. There is no dock, you have to just pull it up against the shore while parking. It is at least 100 yards to the parking lot from the ramp. Take a pair of at least knee high boots to wear when recovering your boat. Be prepared and you will be OK.